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Rear trunk won't open
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MikeBur
ManualPilot
Agreed. This is obviously a known issue and just asking might result in positive result. Point them to this thread, looks like this was addressed in later models,
BoldSharpe
Member
Thanks!
But does anyone know how to call Tesla and actually speak to a person? I'm totally puzzled on how to go about this... All I want to do is schedule mobile service but there's no way to do that via the app, by phone, nor can I speak with anyone.
In case you didn’t get this resolved yet I’d suggest calling the number for roadside assistance. If there’s an option for tech support you can try that. Also if you can find a phone number for your service center they might be able to help.
Good luck!
Bruce.
Just had my cinch motor fail as well on my Nov 2016 build last weekend. It wasn't after a car wash or anything, but I did open the hatch five minutes earlier to put a kids bike inside, and closed it normally using the electronic button, so not exerting any manual force. The bike was not touching the hatch to cause any misalignment issue.
While using the car for four days before Mobile Service came to repair, I used the tips here to lock the car using the touchscreen. I felt it also it was essentially locking itself even if I didn't; while the mirrors wouldn't auto-fold, the handles wouldn't extend when I got back, whether through proximity or through pushing on them. So I'd have to double-click the remote to extend the handles.
I can't recall if I heard the whirring of the cinch when it closed that last time. But one interesting thing is once when I went over a parking lot speed bump abruptly, I heard the cinch whirring noise as if trying to engage. It didn't change the situation, but it does suggest the motor is not completely dead, but the mechanism is jammed.
The Mobile Service took a few hours, first he tried I think to pry the latch open from the inside with 3-foot long crowbars or pounding with ball-peen hammers. I helped try to forcefully pull up on hatch in the hopes it would un-jam itself, but with the whole rear bouncing on the springs it was clear the latch was firmly engaged. So then he went the necessary route of destroying the lower trim piece. The rest of the repair went smoothly; though he has to order the trim piece and come back later to install it.
The only sad thing about the experience is later I saw the paint had a noticeable gouge taken out right at the deck lid, like a tool had dropped and scraped a half-inch vertical line of paint right down to the grey primer. I don't know why he'd even have heavy tools near the outside of the hatch while it was more closed, to have done it, but maybe while he was cleaning up. Unfortunately with Obsidian Black, the location of scratch while small is very noticeable to the eye, being right at the top edge by the Tesla logo. I'm thinking maybe to order one of those aftermarket OE style spoilers, a $150 stick-on covering will probably be cheaper than repairing the paint.
While using the car for four days before Mobile Service came to repair, I used the tips here to lock the car using the touchscreen. I felt it also it was essentially locking itself even if I didn't; while the mirrors wouldn't auto-fold, the handles wouldn't extend when I got back, whether through proximity or through pushing on them. So I'd have to double-click the remote to extend the handles.
I can't recall if I heard the whirring of the cinch when it closed that last time. But one interesting thing is once when I went over a parking lot speed bump abruptly, I heard the cinch whirring noise as if trying to engage. It didn't change the situation, but it does suggest the motor is not completely dead, but the mechanism is jammed.
The Mobile Service took a few hours, first he tried I think to pry the latch open from the inside with 3-foot long crowbars or pounding with ball-peen hammers. I helped try to forcefully pull up on hatch in the hopes it would un-jam itself, but with the whole rear bouncing on the springs it was clear the latch was firmly engaged. So then he went the necessary route of destroying the lower trim piece. The rest of the repair went smoothly; though he has to order the trim piece and come back later to install it.
The only sad thing about the experience is later I saw the paint had a noticeable gouge taken out right at the deck lid, like a tool had dropped and scraped a half-inch vertical line of paint right down to the grey primer. I don't know why he'd even have heavy tools near the outside of the hatch while it was more closed, to have done it, but maybe while he was cleaning up. Unfortunately with Obsidian Black, the location of scratch while small is very noticeable to the eye, being right at the top edge by the Tesla logo. I'm thinking maybe to order one of those aftermarket OE style spoilers, a $150 stick-on covering will probably be cheaper than repairing the paint.
BoldSharpe
Member
It took about two weeks to get the parts in stock but it was easy going from there. Christopher, the Mobile Tech, did a great job and replaced the cinching actuator (1003549-00-B) and the liftgate latch power release (6006654-00-B) along with an airbag recall in an hour and a half.
What's odd is I got an 'estimate' for the work after the repair was already completed to the tune of $323 plus tax. But the Invoice that came moments later was for $0 so it sounds like Tesla took pity on me.
What's odd is I got an 'estimate' for the work after the repair was already completed to the tune of $323 plus tax. But the Invoice that came moments later was for $0 so it sounds like Tesla took pity on me.
Dang... reading this is depressing.
This just happened to me today, my car trunk was open when I got to the parking spot. I thought, that is odd, just close it without thinking. It is now stuck close, the software thinks it is open, but it is closed and won’t open no matter what. I called the roadside assist line but they can’t do much. Luckily I have a service appointment tomorrow AM for an unrelated issue.
I have 79995 km on this car now and would be just over 80000km tomorrow when I bring it in. I hope they will still warranty it.
I have the 3rd row seats, can’t imagine what happens if the kids are in there and stuck. You can’t fold the 2nd row seats back if the 3rd seats are up, and there is no space to fold the 3rd row seats if kids are there and the trunk lid can’t open.
This just happened to me today, my car trunk was open when I got to the parking spot. I thought, that is odd, just close it without thinking. It is now stuck close, the software thinks it is open, but it is closed and won’t open no matter what. I called the roadside assist line but they can’t do much. Luckily I have a service appointment tomorrow AM for an unrelated issue.
I have 79995 km on this car now and would be just over 80000km tomorrow when I bring it in. I hope they will still warranty it.
I have the 3rd row seats, can’t imagine what happens if the kids are in there and stuck. You can’t fold the 2nd row seats back if the 3rd seats are up, and there is no space to fold the 3rd row seats if kids are there and the trunk lid can’t open.
Cirrus MS100D
Member
This happened to my wife during school pickup. The trunk “closed” after the kids got in, but wouldn’t open after getting home. It was annoying, but doable. My 4 y/o unbuckled himself and then unbuckled his 3 y/o cousin, then my wife unlatched the third row “top” portion and folded down the second row seats and they climbed out. (They thought it was hilarious, she... not so much.)
Ok. Today my trunk unlocked and can open. I assume it’s best to leave it unlocked and perhaps put a towel or something to make sure it doesn’t close? So the repair is easier?
I would probably do that if it's possible for you. Otherwise the service folks have to break the interior trim on the trunk from the inside to be able to get at the mechanism.
Bruce.
Cirrus MS100D
Member
^What Bruce said. The entire repair wouldn't been only a few minutes if they were able to "cleanly" get the trunk open, but it took them almost an hour of poking/prodding/prying gently and eventually brutally to get ours open for the repair. Credit to the techs who didn't damage anything that wasn't subsequently replaced.
Stuck trunk here, 2016 S. Got to the two mechanisms. Can feel that the actuator has wound around enough to begin clinching the lock, but not fully. Still 1\4 inch space for full trunk closure. I can push the lock mech lever to full engage and close that trunk gap, but I cannot move lever back to full disengage the clinching.
Emergency release cable does not move at all.
Anyone able to get the trunk to open so one could start the repair?
Thanks
Emergency release cable does not move at all.
Anyone able to get the trunk to open so one could start the repair?
Thanks
Solved, step 7 in above instruction list.
Locate with hand/feel the clinching mech wheel. Use slot screw driver to push the wheel off it spindle. The truck lock will free and trunk opens.
J
Locate with hand/feel the clinching mech wheel. Use slot screw driver to push the wheel off it spindle. The truck lock will free and trunk opens.
J
I also had my trunk fail (while on holiday in France - I live in the UK). Model S90 RWD 2016 out of warranty due to mileage. Trunk would not open and I didn't want to pull the emergency release and have the boot stuck open for the remainder of the vacation. The SC in France had no availability so I scheduled an appointment with Dartford SC in UK. The SC wanted £87 to look at car but declined to quote me for repairs or parts despite me pointing out the likely cause of the problem. SC then cancelled my appointment without asking and failed to reinstate appointment despite two requests.
Thanks to this and (numerous) similar forum discussions I was able to identify the likely cause and parts. When I got home I luckily got the trunk open using the emergency release so I was able to get the panels off the inside of the tailgate. The cinch actuator is the Hella High Force Actuator part number 6nw 009 424-791. It is also fitted to the Mercedes E-Class (W212). I bought a brand new one from eBay for £75 delivered. It was an easy job to swap them over and the trunk is now operating correctly.
As an aside, I wanted to check the fuse and also remove it while working on the trunk. On my 2016 S90 RWD I only have one fuse box in the frunk. The second box is in the driver's footwell (right hand drive car) but I could not find a diagram of the fuses anywhere. I did however find this numbering (Pages - Partiki) listing the tailgate fuse as F210. Fortunately there was only one green 30A fuse in this location and that was the fuse for the tailgate.
Thanks to this and (numerous) similar forum discussions I was able to identify the likely cause and parts. When I got home I luckily got the trunk open using the emergency release so I was able to get the panels off the inside of the tailgate. The cinch actuator is the Hella High Force Actuator part number 6nw 009 424-791. It is also fitted to the Mercedes E-Class (W212). I bought a brand new one from eBay for £75 delivered. It was an easy job to swap them over and the trunk is now operating correctly.
As an aside, I wanted to check the fuse and also remove it while working on the trunk. On my 2016 S90 RWD I only have one fuse box in the frunk. The second box is in the driver's footwell (right hand drive car) but I could not find a diagram of the fuses anywhere. I did however find this numbering (Pages - Partiki) listing the tailgate fuse as F210. Fortunately there was only one green 30A fuse in this location and that was the fuse for the tailgate.
MikeBur
ManualPilot
And.... failed again for me. Second time in as many years. Was going to be a week, though when I went in to local SC (still great service once you get someone) to ensure parts in stock, they just had me leave it with them and was fixed in a day. Yay!
Cirrus MS100D
Member
Very interesting... we’re coming up on about 10 months on our replacement and I’m now noticing the cinch motor sounds slightly different than it did several weeks ago. It whirrs and cinches, but the last third of the sound/pull was previously higher pitched and now it almost sounds like it’s struggling at the end. Could just be normal or sign of failure #2. We shall see.
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