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Parked, not plugged in to charging, turn on climate control in the app, and the battery does heat up- battery inlet temp quickly rises above cell temps, and then battery heats up. This would be worth it if you were driving down from a ski area- to catch all that regen at the start of the trip? It does use around 7.5 to 10.5 kw of juice to do it tho! Obviously best to be plugged in if possible in cold weather; and better yet to capitalize on some of the warming that occurs when charging as well. I guess charge up to a bit before departure and then blitz climate control for the 10-15 minutes before I leave to get the battery temp up into the 70's.....My car is usually plugged in so I haven't done a lot of tests. I've tried it twice not plugged in and turning on the climate control via the app does not warm up the Stator motors and thus does not warm up the battery.
I'll try again but I'm not seeing the Stator motors heating up (Scan My Tesla app) unless I'm plugged in.Parked, not plugged in to charging, turn on climate control in the app, and the battery does heat up- battery inlet temp quickly rises above cell temps, and then battery heats up. This would be worth it if you were driving down from a ski area- to catch all that regen at the start of the trip? It does use around 7.5 to 10.5 kw of juice to do it tho! Obviously best to be plugged in if possible in cold weather; and better yet to capitalize on some of the warming that occurs when charging as well. I guess charge up to a bit before departure and then blitz climate control for the 10-15 minutes before I leave to get the battery temp up into the 70's.....
It's been well-documented in the Model 3 community and I've tested it myself with the Scan My Tesla app. I've posted screenshots in another thread showing the Stator motors warming up and the battery pack temp increases over 30 minutes. Here's a cut and paste:
In the attached image, I've circled in red the relevant info. This is an image, after about 1 minute, when I woke the car up and turned on the heat. Ambient temp in my garage, 58F. Battery temp 66F. Take note of the battery flow (this is the coolant running through the battery) and the Stator motor temperatures, along with the Battery inlet temp. I'll explain all this shortly in my second reply with a second image showing pre-conditioning after 30 minutes.
View attachment 607944
Here is the car after 30 minutes of pre-conditioning.
Note the battery temps are now 82F. How does all this work by turning on your heat? This is how the car pre-conditions:
By turning on the heat, the Battery Management System (aka BMS) activates a non-motive power waveform to the Stator motors. This is to generate heat. This heat is carried away by the coolant via conduction, the same way gamers use liquid cooling on their CPU and GPU, or in gas vehicles with the radiator coolant passing through the engine block. This hot coolant eventually flows through the battery packs and then back through the Stator motors and the process is repeated. You can see the Battery Flow and Powertrain flow indicated in LPM (Liters per minute). You can also see what the temperature of the coolant is before it enters the battery packs, listed as Battery Inlet.
It also works in reverse in the summer when it's hotter outside and the batteries need to be cooler. Instead of heat conduction from the Stator motors, the Radiator Bypass is closed and the coolant is routed through the radiator fans. This speed can be found with the Radiator Fan Target. Fresh air is pushed over the coolant lines to lower the temperatures.
There you have it. Battery pre-conditioning 101.
View attachment 607945
It was 45 degrees in my garage this morning and I pre-conditioned about 15 minutes. Battery temps were ~ 67F when I pulled out of my garage and only 4 dots on the screen. They were gone within 5 minutes.Is 30mins of pre-conditioning required to get warm enough? I tried 10mins the other day when it was 40deg and this was not enough.
Ok, tried again at work (not plugged in) and the motors were ~ 165F and the batteries were 71F (ambient 46F). I don't have an explanation why the previous two times I did the same thing at work the motors were at ambient. Not the most efficient thing to do with each motor drawing 3.5 kW but oh well, it's better for the battery.I'll try again but I'm not seeing the Stator motors heating up (Scan My Tesla app) unless I'm plugged in.
I think there is a temperature, either ambient or battery where the battery heating occurs below it, and does not occur above it.Ok, tried again at work (not plugged in) and the motors were ~ 165F and the batteries were 71F (ambient 46F). I don't have an explanation why the previous two times I did the same thing at work the motors were at ambient. Not the most efficient thing to do with each motor drawing 3.5 kW but oh well, it's better for the battery.
Same experience in colder weather. The Y battery cools down rather quickly if it’s not heat soaked from supercharging or a longer level 2 charging session.I'm very disappointed with the lack of battery warming with the heat pump in the Model Y, compared to what I was used to in my Model 3.
I charged for 2+ hours in my 55 degree garage and left with No Regen Dots (finally). It was 40 degrees outside and I immediately drove for 20 minutes to the store and ended up with 4 dots. I did 2 more quick 5 minute errands at stores (a couple miles of driving in between), and then drove the 20 minutes back home with dots all the way up to the N (10-12 dots). My MY sat in 40 degree temps outside for a total of 10-15 minutes and gained dots while driving 50+ minutes! IMHO, if the regen dots reach the D or go beyond, then regen is basically useless, which is what I will be seeing for the next 3-4 months in Wisconsin.
In this same scenario with my old Model 3, I wouldn't have seen a regen dot the entire time and even if I had started out with dots, they would have gradually disappeared as I drove. With my Model Y, it is the exact opposite.
Price we pay for having a heat pump, since it's scavenging the heat for the cabin, which is cooling the battery.
Does anyone know why my MY no longer has the ability to change regen braking from Low to Standard!? I hate the low setting! I’ve only had the vehicle since Labor Day, the first 2-months I never had to use the brake, now I have to all the time?Does the Model Y also use the electric motors to warm the battery pack or is this handled by the heat pump?
I noticed when my Model Y is displaying the message that regenerative braking is reduced that if I access the driving settings and set regenerative braking to Low instead of Standard (my Model Y has this capability) that the message disappears.
If you Tesla Model Y was purchased after September 2020 there was never an option for Low or Standard regenerative braking, only Standard Regenerative braking. (My Long Range Model Y was delivered in June 2020, has the option to select Low or Standard Regenerative braking.) What you are experiencing, now, as regenerative braking is reduced is due to colder temperatures within the battery pack. You can mitigate this, to some extent, by always preconditioning the Tesla Model Y (especially in the A.M. when the Tesla Model Y has been sitting overnight at colder temperatures.) Depending on the temperature you may have to precondition the Tesla Model Y for more than 15 minutes, even more than 30 minutes in colder weather.Does anyone know why my MY no longer has the ability to change regen braking from Low to Standard!? I hate the low setting! I’ve only had the vehicle since Labor Day, the first 2-months I never had to use the brake, now I have to all the time?