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Repairing a Flooded Tesla Model S : HOW-TO

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Since you have stripped the car. Will you be able to fit it with the latest tech packages like Autopilot?

He certainly could, but he would need help from someone that could re-program things. It would be easier than when WK057 did it, but would still be a pain, and I'm not sure it would be worth it. (He would have to buy a bunch of parts vs. using what he already has.)
 
You completely disassembled the car. What would you say about the Tesla production quality?

Not so great on the early production cars at least. I swear I saw a few nuts and bolts from Home Depot. Some things were just plain missing, odd fitment and questionable ways of securing panels.

I still laugh to this day that the metal piece of aluminum is what helps secure the 12v battery up front. Thats legit metal on metal contact... like... like I can make that bar!!

Want-to-know-what-it-really-looks-like-under-the-hood-Imgur.jpg
 
Since you have stripped the car. Will you be able to fit it with the latest tech packages like Autopilot?

Oh yes, I definitely could do that for sure.

Its actually pretty easy to do

here is a list of some of the things I'd need.

new instrument cluster
Steering column
all ultrasonic sensors
brake booster
parking sensors
rearview mirror
front radar
abs controller
wheel sensors in each wheel
front and rear sensors
windshield
associated wiring harnesses
forward facing camera

I would have to acquire these parts from salvage channels (I'd basically have to purchase an entire auto pilot equipped car) and 90% of salvage teslas are hit somwhere in the front where I would need most of the electronics.
 
Oh yes, I definitely could do that for sure.

Its actually pretty easy to do

here is a list of some of the things I'd need.

new instrument cluster
Steering column
all ultrasonic sensors
brake booster
parking sensors
rearview mirror
front radar
abs controller
wheel sensors in each wheel
front and rear sensors
windshield
associated wiring harnesses
forward facing camera

I would have to acquire these parts from salvage channels (I'd basically have to purchase an entire auto pilot equipped car) and 90% of salvage teslas are hit somwhere in the front where I would need most of the electronics.

I think we just got an excellent example of the difference between possible and feasible.
 
UPDATE

question for my people. what is the physical difference between cars with rear facing seats and onces without? what exactly are you looking for in the structure to determine whether or not they can be added? I've looked at the rear of a few and quite frankly besides the brackets they look the same to me.

any definitive answer on this?
 
UPDATE

question for my people. what is the physical difference between cars with rear facing seats and onces without? what exactly are you looking for in the structure to determine whether or not they can be added? I've looked at the rear of a few and quite frankly besides the brackets they look the same to me.

any definitive answer on this?

There is a large reinforcement member that is bolted across the back under the bumper cover. For a while Tesla started putting it in all cars, then stopped again.

@Btr_ftw Here is a link to the TM forum that shows somebody retro-fitting their car. So there is a extruded aluminum bumper crossmember under the steel bumper crossmember. (part #1015811-S0-B)
 
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Reactions: rjcbox
thanks for the reply, what about the rear seats? I'm assuming they would have to be changed out as well, I see a latch point for the rear facing seats that connect to the rear seats.

no rear facing seat latch

Tesla-Folding-Electric-Bike-Prodeco-18.jpg



with rear facing seat latch


2013-Tesla-Model-S-Trunk-1.jpg
 
thanks for the reply, what about the rear seats? I'm assuming they would have to be changed out as well, I see a latch point for the rear facing seats that connect to the rear seats.

I don't know, but maybe that is why Tesla charges ~$3,400 to retro-fit them. (Not that I have seen anyone mention that the got new rear seats with the retrofit. (Here is a post about someone getting them added.) Either that or that can just cut into the back and mount the latch.

The other thing they add is a button on the drivers side within reach from the seats that will open the rear lift gate. (If you have the tech package/power lift gate, otherwise it just pops it.)
 
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Reactions: Btr_ftw
OK, I think I found the answer in this post: "Here's what they did. So, I bought the seats from someone who was selling them and didn't really use them. I purchased the seat unit plus the screw and bracket that anchors them under the well in the trunk. The service center had to install the clips that go into the back of the 2nd row seats and the trunk. They mistakenly failed to install the button that occupants of the 3rd row can press to open the trunk. That is scheduled for next week. Since they stopped reinforcing all cars somewhere around the 5,500 VIN, the service center only had to visually inspect that the rear cross member reinforcement was present. The install took a day and ran me about $1k."

So it sounds like you just cut the seat open and install the latch point.
 
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Reactions: Btr_ftw
Yes, you can retrofit the seats.

You have to have the following:
1. Seat assembly (Side latch points have different end pieces for D)
2. Two mounting bolts and nutplates.
3. Left and right side hasps with mounting hardware. (different for D)
4. Rear bumper reinforcement (some cars have)
5. Plastic eustachian latch plate for 2nd row seats. (all 2nd row seats have the latch hasp under the covering, just have to cut the holes.)
6. (Optional) Interior release button for rear trunk.

I have an extra seat assembly for non-D and the side hasps and all mounting hardware. I don't have the reinforcement or the plastic eustachian plate (cheap).