Retrofit CCS compatibility onto earlier (NA) Model 3 - DIY approach

[israndy]

I went with plan C with my 2021 Stripped PLC ECU 4 (1537264-80-B) -> (1537264-00-B):

Nice, but I wish the images were labelled or the words I don't know were linked to images, what's a Right Side Locking Tab?

So For Example:

Find the clip inside the upper left corner of the trunk, inside from the brake light

Remove the clip with a flat blade or an interior clip removal tool

Don't let the plastic interior fall down as you may break it's other retainer clip

Pull down the FELT liner to reveal the interior light mounted on the inside

Unplug the light

Pull down the liner with force to reveal the ECU location

Remove the black bolt with a 10mm socket and with your fingers to be sure you don't drop it into the interior below

Unplug each of the connectors and remove the ECU, note there are alignment fingers in the metal surface to prevent the ECU from spinning on it's bolt. After plugging the connectors into he NEW ECU be sure to test it before you start re-installing everything. Then simply put everything back in the reverse order you removed them above. The plastic clip (see photo above) can be disassembled into two parts, the hole part should be threaded thru the two liner pieces and into the metal body of the car and then the plunger part inserted into the hole part to lock it in place.

Be sure the felt liner is under the rubber seal and that the seal is fully seated when install is complete

Also make sure the felt liner is inserted into the plastic liner across the top of the trunk

This is just my guess as to the order of the photos and the labelling but something like this should be moved to the first post in this Wiki. Would also be nice to include photos of removing the entire connector that is the 'bundle of wires and resistors', heck even a photo shoot of putting that connector together would be useful.

Perhaps that's my thing to do with today as that's the stage of installation I am at. Is this project on anyone else's todo list this weekend?

 

[israndy]

For people with 2021 Models 3 & Y without CCS capability and looking for the replacement Gen 4 ECU, see here.

Yeah, that thread is dead, I tagged it with a thumbs down, hopefully people see it and don't bother following it.

 

[israndy]

So I ordered my CCS adapter from Harumio, is this what people are seeing? I thought I get an email and some coordination is done about my Tesla account to get it ordered. Perhaps they closed early on Friday. Just nervous I did it wrong.

 

[RayK]

You didn’t ask me but I paid $154 after tax for mine new from a service center

I do already have a new ECU ordered from a local Tesla Service Center for about the same price. I wanted a second source (eBay) in case the official channel is closed due to parts availability. It's been almost two weeks; I believe 10 days to 2 weeks was the estimate for the ECU.

So I ordered my CCS adapter from Harumio, is this what people are seeing? I thought I get an email and some coordination is done about my Tesla account to get it ordered. Perhaps they closed early on Friday. Just nervous I did it wrong.

View attachment 804140

That looks much like my order I placed on April 26th (US time; Korea is 16 hours ahead of us here in CA) . Clicking the confirmation email's "View your order" led to this:

Don't know if DHL shipping and proxy service is now rolled into the purchase price but you got yours for a bit less. In an earlier email I received from them, they explicitly asked for my Tesla login details. I provided them with that information and then got the order confirmation. I thought I recently read somewhere here that they now do not need our Tesla account information.

 

[lynyrdM]

Nice, but I wish the images were labelled or the words I don't know were linked to images, what's a Right Side Locking Tab?

So For Example:

Find the clip inside the upper left corner of the trunk, inside from the brake light

Remove the clip with a flat blade or an interior clip removal tool

Don't let the plastic interior fall down as you may break it's other retainer clip

Pull down the FELT liner to reveal the interior light mounted on the inside

Unplug the light

Pull down the liner with force to reveal the ECU location

Remove the black bolt with a 10mm socket and with your fingers to be sure you don't drop it into the interior below

Unplug each of the connectors and remove the ECU, note there are alignment fingers in the metal surface to prevent the ECU from spinning on it's bolt. After plugging the connectors into he NEW ECU be sure to test it before you start re-installing everything. Then simply put everything back in the reverse order you removed them above. The plastic clip (see photo above) can be disassembled into two parts, the hole part should be threaded thru the two liner pieces and into the metal body of the car and then the plunger part inserted into the hole part to lock it in place.

Be sure the felt liner is under the rubber seal and that the seal is fully seated when install is complete

Also make sure the felt liner is inserted into the plastic liner across the top of the trunk

This is just my guess as to the order of the photos and the labelling but something like this should be moved to the first post in this Wiki. Would also be nice to include photos of removing the entire connector that is the 'bundle of wires and resistors', heck even a photo shoot of putting that connector together would be useful.

Perhaps that's my thing to do with today as that's the stage of installation I am at. Is this project on anyone else's todo list this weekend?

You didn’t disconnect 12V or disconnect the high voltage battery when you did this right?

I am getting ready to install my new ECU and just want to be sure

 

[tps5352]

Yeah, that thread is dead, I tagged it with a thumbs down, hopefully people see it and don't bother following it.

Randy,

I think a “Thumbs Down” is unnecessary. Besides the stigma of receiving the dreaded TD black mark, (a) there is still good information in the post and (b) I have clearly indicated in it that the item was sold (for between $150 and the excessive asking price of ~$250)..

However if you hate my thread (or the author), you are free to mark it as such.

 

[Izzy1315]

I hope you didn't spend more than $140 or so. That seller was listing them at $90 before and I was hoping to score the next one that was put up for a BIN. If you don't mind me asking, what did you pay for it?

Yea i cant buy from SC cuz mines M3 is salvaged. I paid $240. Yikes i know..

 

[tps5352]

Yea i cant buy from SC cuz mines M3 is salvaged. I paid $240. Yikes i know..

No, no. Understandable, though regrettable. You have to do what you have to do.

 

[MP3Mike]

Yea i cant buy from SC cuz mines M3 is salvaged.

According to Tesla policy you can still buy unrestricted parts like the charge port ECU.

 

[israndy]

OK, finished building my CCS adapter adapter... There hasta be a better name than that, here is the photoshoot:

The KIT as ordered

Starting with the big male pin side I inserted the blue wires per the photos linked from the main page

The yellow wires are identical so those go in next per the photo

The green wires are interesting as they are identical and tied together so anyone goes in any green hole

After you are SURE that each wire is in the correct hole (careful as these pictured are NOT) just press them in until it clicks

OOPS!! That wire is in the wrong dam hole!

Where the pin comes out there is a tiny release hole you can pop the wires out if you lock them in, but it's tiny and if you start with the males as I did you need something else tiny to release the wire

How about a sewing needle?

Just press it in (I used the table to press it in as it slid thru my fingers)

And then pull the wire out followed by the needle.

OK, half way there, but I can't upload any more photos to this msg...

 

[israndy]

To finish:

Once all the pins are inserted...

Simply lock them in place by pushing this panel in

If it's ALREADY pushed in like my second connector was, just pop it out with tweezers or a needle

Should look like this

 

[israndy]

Second connector:

Starting with the yellow connector, they go from pins 20, and 21 to 20, and 22 on the second smaller connector.

The blue connectors all go straight thru, same pin on each side

Finally the red and green are completely different from the 3 greens and one white on the other side, red is pin 5, green is pin 13

You will know you have all the pins press in enough if you can press the lock panel on the side

Done, now you have:

 

[ager01]

I had a fantastic experience at the Paramus SC today: walked up to the counter and left with 00-B 5 minutes later, no questions asked. Have to wait for a software update to become available before I swap out the board and destroy my trunk lining in the process

 

[lynyrdM]

Just swapped in the -00B board and am running software update to 2022.12.3.2

Edit: yay!!!!

 

[Izzy1315]

Second connector:View attachment 804271
Starting with the yellow connector, they go from pins 20, and 21 to 20, and 22 on the second smaller connector.
View attachment 804272
The blue connectors all go straight thru, same pin on each side
View attachment 804273
Finally the red and green are completely different from the 3 greens and one white on the other side, red is pin 5, green is pin 13
View attachment 804274View attachment 804275View attachment 804276
You will know you have all the pins press in enough if you can press the lock panel on the side
View attachment 804277
Done, now you have:

View attachment 804294

Thank u for all the detailed pics

 

[Bunklung]

Just swapped in the -00B board and am running software update to 2022.12.3.2

Edit: yay!!!! View attachment 804322

I did not disconnect any power in the car when swapping my ECU. It seemed unnecessary as others had zero issues. What did you do?

 

[ager01]

Just swapped in the -00B board and am running software update to 2022.12.3.2

Edit: yay!!!! View attachment 804322

is this a MY? How difficult was it to remove the trunk side panel?

 

[lynyrdM]

is this a MY? How difficult was it to remove the trunk side panel?

It’s a 2021 Model 3 LR that came with a -80B stripped down Gen 4 ECU

I followed Bunklung’s guide here

It did sketch me out to be pulling stuff clearly not meant to be pulled (glue was detaching from the foam to the liner) but it all worked out and things look normal in my trunk after reassembly.

 

[lynyrdM]

I did not disconnect any power in the car when swapping my ECU. It seemed unnecessary as others had zero issues. What did you do?

I followed your post except I did it at home and used a software update I had waiting to provision the ECU instead of going to a service center. Like in your guide, I did not disconnect 12V or the high voltage battery.

 

[Bunklung]

Nice, but I wish the images were labelled or the words I don't know were linked to images, what's a Right Side Locking Tab?

The right side locking tab is the same as the left side one you see in my hand. I suggest leaving this in. Care should be taken to not pull too hard on the molding that bridges both sides of the trunk or you may break this right side locking tab. The molding will bend down since half of it is still attached with the right side locking tab.