Retrofit CCS compatibility onto earlier (NA) Model 3 - DIY approach

[israndy]

Don't talk about the Tesla adapter until they start selling it around the rest of the world. It's been more than two years we have all been expecting the CCS adapter "Any Day Now" and the more we rely on it coming the more Murphy's Law is working against us.

I am curious about the statement above, that you need this cable hack unless you have a version 4 car when you do the version 4 ECU upgrade. Why would I upgrade to a version 4 ECU on a version 4 car, doesn't it already have it?

 

[jimbeault]

Don't talk about the Tesla adapter until they start selling it around the rest of the world. It's been more than two years we have all been expecting the CCS adapter "Any Day Now" and the more we rely on it coming the more Murphy's Law is working against us.

I am curious about the statement above, that you need this cable hack unless you have a version 4 car when you do the version 4 ECU upgrade. Why would I upgrade to a version 4 ECU on a version 4 car, doesn't it already have it?

There is some Gen4 car aka 2021's model 3/Y that came out with a stripped version of the gen4 Charge port ECU. I think Tesla ran out of chip at some point and they choose to release the car like this instead of just waiting to get parts.

The work done here is to create a adapting harness to connect a "full" version"/non stripped version (gen4) port ECU into your gen3 car (pre2021 version). Avoiding having to change a lot of parts in the car to make the gen4 port ECU working good.

 

[Xelloss99]

Thank you for your contribution to us, and open a new approach to enable CCS for old model 3.

If my car is GEN3 (1092755-98-D), why not just replace it with EU GEN3 (1092755-82-B) ? So I don't need to deal with the mass you faced now?

@AlexUA is the expert on this (he makes the EVHub adapter), so he can elaborate, but from what I understand from previous posts:

- You might need to have Tesla service (or some knowledgeable tech) change the car configuration so that it can use the EU ECU.
- The CHAdeMO adapter won't work with the EU ECU installed, since EU Model 3/Y has a CCS port and DC charge only on the CCS pins while the CHAdeMO adapter uses the same pins as AC charging.
- The button on Tesla connectors (Wall Connector, Mobile Connector, Supercharger) won't be able to open the charge port because the EU RF transmitter is a different frequency

 

[FalconFour]

you could crimp the wires as best as possible to the male and female connector pins

Mhm... well, I have many bad experiences crimping "rigid to rigid" - a solid resistor lead into a solid crimp, tends to create an incredibly brittle connection, 90% of the way to breaking (two flexes and it breaks). I was opposed to crimping (vs. soldering) connections for a really long time until I discovered that the flexibility in stranded wire is essential for a reliable/non-brittle crimp. Thus why I went with crimping wire -> soldering resistor to wire -> crimping wire.

You might be able to avoid some liability by selling "kits".

That's actually a really good idea. Doesn't save a lot of work on my part, but saves a bit of potential headache. My dining room table may be covered in 4 copies of 80%-complete crimps/solders at this very moment.

why not just replace it with EU GEN3

As mentioned above, it's a bit complicated for one thing -- but more so, it's a parts sourcing thing. Precious few EU Gen3's seem to make it to the US market... despite likely being made/distributed here. They're painfully expensive as well ($400-range) when they do come up. Frankly, I'd almost prefer it, because now I have to deal with Gen4's bugs (doesn't re-open cover if it gets stopped while closing... sometimes decides it's gonna just stop listening to open/close commands from buttons in the car, etc -- all problems that I find on coworkers' new Gen4 Teslas as well).

with a CCS adapter from Korea Tesla

I've seen it and felt it... it's beefy! But it's also just a pretty simple passive adapter, same as EVHub. The only real functional distinction between the two is the passive CCS-handle-lock tab, and the construction of the DC pins. EVHub's newer CCS adapter has better pins than the one I have (mine is a really, really early - if not the first - revision of their design), so I really can't knock it. Only thing I can knock is the price, as it is a bit disappointingly priced. But at the moment, it's that or nothing - so hey, market wins.

(I've been watching that thread - CCS Adapter for North America - and some folks have bought from the Tesla Korea site, but ... I'd expect them to be out of stock in the blink of an eye? Hey, if you can get one there and ship here, I'd 100% say go for it!)

 

[FalconFour]

Oh, and I almost forgot

I didn't see heat shrink tubing included in your list.

I got it at OSH!

It's this kit, though: Gardner Bender Heat-Shrink Tubing Assortment (160-Piece) HST-ASTA - The Home Depot (bleh, home despot) but I'm sure Amazon has better choices.

 

[israndy]

Shopping list to build exactly what I have:
Gen4 ECU: 1537264-00-B (search eBay / set a saved search / contact a Tesla service center for the best price imho)

I did a search and discovered

Tesla Model 3/Y Charger Port Control Unit ECU 1537264-00-B Gen4 2020 2021 | eBay

Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for Tesla Model 3/Y Charger Port Control Unit ECU 1537264-00-B Gen4 2020 2021 at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!

www.ebay.com

But I noticed this old listing says:

​

“New, installed, flashed, uninstalled (not compatible with my 2018 Model 3). Should simply be able to install and reflash to your car and work perfectly normal.” Brand new, bought from Tesla. Don't try using this to upgrade your Gen3 to Gen4 to get CCS support. It's not pin-compatible. Ask me how I know. This will work great to replace a malfunctioning charge port ECU, or to get CCS support for a car that has a cost-reduced Gen4 module already in it (without PLC). It won't work to upgrade a Gen3 NA to support CCS. Still working on finding that DIY solution...

So my March 2018 is not compatible with this thread I have been reading?

 

[FalconFour]

this old listing

That was my listing And it's true -- it's not compatible. That's why we're here. haha

Your March 2018 is probably exactly the target audience for all this. Mine's June 2018.

So you could buy that ECU, and if you held onto it throughout this thread's progression, you would now be able to use it with the adapter.

 

[FalconFour]

oh wow would you look at what I stumbled across on eBay

A bundle of wires with a board and resistors, with 24-pin housings | eBay

And still rocking in mid- 2023. and now into 2024 as well! As long as y'all keep wanting 'em, we'll keep making 'em! Inspired by a forum thread. If you know, you know. Designed by FalconFour and Atlanta_nerd_boy (2muchsun).

www.ebay.com

Looks legit? haha

Worthwhile note: there are pin numbers (endpoints, at least - like 1 and 12, 13 and 24) on the ends of the housings. Use that in conjunction with the diagram posted in middle of Pg. 9 to make sense of it all (e.g. "X688-4" means pin 4). Remember to keep the male/female sides straight! (male pins = "old port", female sockets = "Gen4 ECU").

 

[israndy]

Stupid FOMO

 

[RayK]

oh wow would you look at what I stumbled across on eBay

A bundle of wires with a board and resistors, with 24-pin housings | eBay

And still rocking in mid- 2023. and now into 2024 as well! As long as y'all keep wanting 'em, we'll keep making 'em! Inspired by a forum thread. If you know, you know. Designed by FalconFour and Atlanta_nerd_boy (2muchsun).

www.ebay.com

Love your description!

edit: rkawakami on eBay

 

[Jeremy3292]

That was my listing And it's true -- it's not compatible. That's why we're here. haha

Your March 2018 is probably exactly the target audience for all this. Mine's June 2018.

So you could buy that ECU, and if you held onto it throughout this thread's progression, you would now be able to use it with the adapter.

Why did you remove the listing? I am one of those folks with the cost reduced Gen 4 module and would be interested.

 

[power.saver]

Why did you remove the listing? I am one of those folks with the cost reduced Gen 4 module and would be interested.

The listing is still there... but only 1 left.

 

[FalconFour]

Why did you remove the listing? I am one of those folks with the cost reduced Gen 4 module and would be interested.

Because it (the Gen4 ECU) was sold (to a person with that same issue - replacing a "reduced" Gen4 with the real Gen4). Notice 1 was sold... I have my eBay account set up to let me "restock" things by default, which didn't really apply here (I make stickers, too Bumper Sticker/Magnet "I'm probably not driving" ) - so I had to end it manually after it sold.

As far as the bundle of ominous wires without context, yep, one is still left.

 

[Jeremy3292]

The listing is still there... but only 1 left.

Wrong listing

 

[MLXXXp]

a solid resistor lead into a solid crimp, tends to create an incredibly brittle connection, 90% of the way to breaking (two flexes and it breaks).

True. I was only talking about soldering somewhat loosely crimped stranded wire to the pins. As long as the stranded wires are long enough to still have a fairly long flexible section, some rigidness at the pins shouldn't cause problems. Just don't use so much solder that it wicks far up the wire.

 

[israndy]

Wow! Fast delivery too

 

[jimbeault]

@FalconFour If we have a Gen3 car with the custom harness + ECU4 and we run into a problem. Can we just swap the parts back without getting into service mode?

I thinking about this as if someone would be on the road and got a problem. He could revert back to its oem setup

 

[FalconFour]

@FalconFour If we have a Gen3 car with the custom harness + ECU4 and we run into a problem. Can we just swap the parts back without getting into service mode?

I thinking about this as if someone would be on the road and got a problem. He could revert back to its oem setup

Well, no (any swap back-and-forth requires a reflash - either by update or by service mode), BUT. You can remove the ECU and the car will still drive. So, if there's any problem that puts you on "side of road", you can unplug the ECU and (possibly) reboot the car, and it'll be happy to drive again once you confirm "no, the charge cable is not connected" on the screen, as here:

Then you can get moving again I've had to do that a few times while poking and prodding with these discoveries.

I've not yet had any problems as long as the Gen4 has been installed and the faults satisfied, though. Even with the faults (thermistor & charge port internal cover), it still drove.

 

[RayK]

oh wow would you look at what I stumbled across on eBay

A bundle of wires with a board and resistors, with 24-pin housings | eBay

And still rocking in mid- 2023. and now into 2024 as well! As long as y'all keep wanting 'em, we'll keep making 'em! Inspired by a forum thread. If you know, you know. Designed by FalconFour and Atlanta_nerd_boy (2muchsun).

www.ebay.com

Package received, thanks!

 

[FalconFour]

And, classic moment... the parts I no longer really need, finally arrived

https://twitter.com/x/status/1496622787972112386

This is the "not old, but not new" charge port - the one Tesla recommended when I initially had them try to do the swap, and failed. So in theory, this one COULD work.

I figure I can still extract some value out of these: I can see if this port has any differences to my original, and maybe if Gen4 just natively detects it and operates differently. All good to know. It may be even simpler for newer-but-not-quite-2020 cars to get the Gen4 touch.

Further analysis to come!