I put a box underneath it about a third of the way across closer to the right side to support it while I was working. It still allowed enough flexibility to move the left side around to get where I needed but helped reduce the torque a bit on the right side fastener.
-
Want to remove ads? Register an account and login to see fewer ads, and become a Supporting Member to remove almost all ads.
Retrofit CCS compatibility onto earlier (NA) Model 3 - DIY approach
- Thread starter FalconFour
- Start date
- Status
Because I’m a worry wort I did some post-install testing. Supercharging, Chademo charging and Level 2 charging all still work just fine.
Now I just need Harumio to deliver my CCS1 adapter
Thanks for all the help
Now I just need Harumio to deliver my CCS1 adapter
Thanks for all the help
Because I’m a worry wort I did some post-install testing. Supercharging, Chademo charging and Level 2 charging all still work just fine.
Now I just need Harumio to deliver my CCS1 adapter
Thanks for all the help
Good job, brave person.
Trunk/Trim Removal:
I've had the same plastic rivet remover/panel remover tool for at least a couple of decades, and it's always served me well. It may be good to pick this up for future auto and household DIY projects. It can definitely help with the Tesla trunk panel removal.
Tesla CSS Adapter:
Ordered directly from Tesla Korea; shipped to Delivered Korea "personal" address: 5/2/22
Received by Delivered Korea: 5/9/22
Delivered by FedEx on Friday, 5/13 to San Francisco, CA. Came through customs via Ancorage, Alaska.
Shipping to California, USA: $42 via Fed Ex International
Adapter price, according to my AMEX transactions: $235.xx (based on AMEX version of 5/2/22 exchange rate)
It seems like many are receiving through both Harumio and Delivered Korea; just one's personal preference of placing the order on ones own via the Google-translated Tesla website versus sharing password/credentials to a third party and paying a slight premium for one less risk.
Cheers
I've had the same plastic rivet remover/panel remover tool for at least a couple of decades, and it's always served me well. It may be good to pick this up for future auto and household DIY projects. It can definitely help with the Tesla trunk panel removal.
Tesla CSS Adapter:
Ordered directly from Tesla Korea; shipped to Delivered Korea "personal" address: 5/2/22
Received by Delivered Korea: 5/9/22
Delivered by FedEx on Friday, 5/13 to San Francisco, CA. Came through customs via Ancorage, Alaska.
Shipping to California, USA: $42 via Fed Ex International
Adapter price, according to my AMEX transactions: $235.xx (based on AMEX version of 5/2/22 exchange rate)
It seems like many are receiving through both Harumio and Delivered Korea; just one's personal preference of placing the order on ones own via the Google-translated Tesla website versus sharing password/credentials to a third party and paying a slight premium for one less risk.
Cheers
As long as the part number matches it should work. I bought one that was in a model y and worked on my model 3.
Attachments
Yup - a part's a part! Doesn't matter what it's pulled from; a 1537264-00-B is a 1537264-00-B no matter what it was taken from.
Of course, this whole thread is dedicated to the adaptation to get the Gen4 ECU (that one) to work on the Gen3 cars (the old ones), so it is of course not a drop-in, but it is the part you need with a little Bundle of Wires thrown in (for pre-2020, Gen3 cars).
Been noticing a fair handful of 1537264-80-B's showing up on eBay lately... rather funny, that (gee, where did those come from?). But, interestingly, a number of -00-'s showing up as well, for those that can't get Tesla to sell them one.
Yeah I sold my 80-B on eBay yesterday. I saw little little value in keeping it. Maybe an independent repair shop will be able to use it? I disclaimed that it was a stripped ECU withOUT CCS capabilities, no returns!
israndy
Supercharger Hunter
Wow! They're selling for $100 to $160, now someone's trying to get $255 for one. Crazy. What could people be buying these for?
I sold mine for $99. I did see the $255 one and someone will end up with a very unhappy ebayer. The buyer is always right, so it's just not worth the risk and trying to snatch over retail on a stripped ECU.
MSHampton
Member
The guy that helped me, said he noticed a lot of requests for this part. Super nice group, at that SC.I got mine there last Friday. I wonder if they are noticing a trend.
I don't understand. From the standpoint of achieving CCS compatibility in Models 3 & Y (or from any standpoint), of what possible good is a Gen4 "80-B" ECU to anyone?
- Doesn't help and isn't needed by (2020-present) cars with CCS "enabled," naturally.
- Doesn't help 06/21-10/21 cars (which already have the "80-B").
- Doesn't help pre-2020 (Gen3) cars, afaik.
- Interested Bystander
Not useful for enabling ccs. Would only be useful for replacing a broken part.
RayK
Active Member
If we're talking about eBay buyers, then there's several explanations (based upon years of being on that platform):
- buyer does not read auction details / descriptions and ends up with item they didn't really want or can't use for their intended purpose
- buyer has determined that their current -80-B is defective and is trying to source a cheaper (generally) version than what can be obtained new (from Tesla)
- buyer is not near a Tesla Service Center or cannot obtain parts in the usual manner (car has been declared salvage?)
- buyer thinks that they can alter / upgrade -80-B to -00-B version by adding all of the surface mount components that are missing
- other
MLXXXp
Member
MLXXXp
Member
It's not a matter of actually soldering in the parts. I also would be capable of it and have the necessary equipment.
It's a matter of obtaining all the parts. Also, there's a chance that there's a strap, jumper or setting in one of the other components that would prevent it from being identified as a -00- part even with all the proper additional components installed.
RayK
Active Member
In a previous life (read: when I was employed) I had access to a surface mount rework station and a technician that could operate it. Given that one could figure out which components were missing from the -80-B version and source them from Digikey or Mouser, it's not beyond the realm of possibility that one might be able to convert it to a -00-B version.I'd love to hear about any success with this one
- Status
Similar threads
