Roadster 3.0

[gregd]

Not sure if this has already been mentioned, but I believe the "red" performance indicator is simply there to display when the PEM enters the furthermost blue bar in the temperature screen. I'm unsure of the exact temp (I believe 44-45C?). When it's white, it's likely below that threshold.

Actually, IIRC, the earlier discussions have implied (assumed?) that the red indicator was an indicator of a problem, and that the mode wasn't operating fully. If it's just a warning, that really changes things. My PEM seems to live in that top blue bar a good part of the year, but is quite stable there and never goes above. Apparently as a result, Performance mode goes red pretty quickly with any use... I've refrained using it be cause of that. Maybe I'm missing out on some fun?

So for those with the 3.0 battery, does Performance mode going Red seem to make a difference in the car's behavior?

 

[ggr]

Actually, IIRC, the earlier discussions have implied (assumed?) that the red indicator was an indicator of a problem, and that the mode wasn't operating fully. If it's just a warning, that really changes things. My PEM seems to live in that top blue bar a good part of the year, but is quite stable there and never goes above. Apparently as a result, Performance mode goes red pretty quickly with any use... I've refrained using it be cause of that. Maybe I'm missing out on some fun?

So for those with the 3.0 battery, does Performance mode going Red seem to make a difference in the car's behavior?

My experience (before and after the upgrade) is that the car has to be pretty recently switched on, or driven very gently, for it to be white. I certainly don't worry about it.

 

[gregd]

My experience (before and after the upgrade) is that the car has to be pretty recently switched on, or driven very gently, for it to be white. I certainly don't worry about it.

My experience also (just with the standard battery). But, does the color actually make a difference in how the car drives? DeedWest's comment suggests that it's basically cosmetic.

 

[John W. Ratcliff]

>So for those with the 3.0 battery, does Performance mode going Red seem to make a difference in the car's behavior?

Behavior of the light switching was the same. That said, just because the light goes red I cannot observe *any* difference in behavior or performance. It's just a light changing is all.

The light goes red a lot less quickly in cool weather than hot, for whatever that is worth.

 

[markwj]

I borrowed a friend's R80. Thing was RIDICULOUS at higher speeds.

Is RIDICULOUS better than LUDICROUS? Anywhere near MAXIMUM PLAID?

 

[snd92]

I must admit to not "feel" the difference between the red and white performance modes. Only difference is that I get 296 ftlb in white and 274 ftlb in red. (original battery)

 

[dpeilow]

So, I got my Roadster back today with the 3.0 (R80) battery upgrade

Interested to know what your CAC is now.

 

[gregd]

I must admit to not "feel" the difference between the red and white performance modes. Only difference is that I get 296 ftlb in white and 274 ftlb in red. (original battery)

Ah... Yes, hard data is always best. Thanks for clarifying that there really is a difference, measurable, if not felt.

 

[jordanthompson]

So Roadster is in the shop with a bad cell... I have the option of fixing the cell for $10K or getting a new pack for $30K (neither is very welcome right now.)
I was wondering:
Does the new battery require a new PEM?
Are the parasitic losses on the new battery design as bad as the old one?
Is battery balancing still an issue with the new battery?
I see that the new battery is heavier than the old one: do you notice any performance (acceleration, handling, etc) degradation?
Does anyone know if there are any used batteries out there?

Anyone have any suggestions or additional questions I should be asking?

It breaks my heart, but I am planning on fixing my Roadster and selling it :-(
My question to the other Roadster owners out there: Should I repair it for $10K or replace the battery (3.0) for $30K if I plan to immediately sell it when I get it back from the shop?

I figure I can get close to $70K (it is a sport in good condition) with the regular pack. To justify the upgrade, I would need to get at least $90K. What do you think?

 

[Roadster]

If you're selling immediately, go with the standard replacement and don't look back. When you come to your senses, drop in the 3.0 and forget you even considered selling her.

See comments above about the added kick from 60 - 90. She could be an entirely new car when you get her back if you go that route...

 

[dhrivnak]

If you're selling immediately, go with the standard replacement and don't look back. When you come to your senses, drop in the 3.0 and forget you even considered selling her.

See comments above about the added kick from 60 - 90. She could be an entirely new car when you get her back if you go that route...

I will offer a contrarian view. I think the 3.0 amlong with the 3 year battery and PEM warranty would conmand the extra $20000 difference in cost. Just my $.02.

 

[dhrivnak]

Wish me luck as I aim to drive over 400 miles today on one charge. I have an interesting route through the mountains including Tail of the Dragon. The tail is a 11 mile section of 129 with 320 curves. All of the route will be public roads, mostly secondary roads and I am guessing an average speed of about 40 MPH. I know I could go farther at say 25 but the bottom side will not accept. Mild weather between 65-85 is predicted.

 

[wycolo]

I've never seen a drag ticket but I would expect it to also record air temp and wind speed/direction.
--

 

[dhrivnak]

Well trip did not end well as I was towed the last 16 miles. The VDS said I had 45 miles of range before going indeterminate and I had 40 to go. Close but I thought I would make it as the road was flat and I was driving at 49 with no HVAC and it was dry and 80. This morning the battery said I had 79.6 KWh. I was down to 3.5 KWh and the battery said I still had 4% when the car just lost power and died. With the past battery I had a few warning but no more. So bottom line I only had 73 KWh usable and managed 375 miles. Not bad but I wish the instrumentation was more accurate. I now know for the future.

Before the tow I was at 4% but by the end I was down to 1%. So the end is not linear. So even if you think you have 40 miles of range at the end the reality is more like 20.

 

[dhrivnak]

Fortunately I did have a great ride on the tail of the Dragon. The curviest road I have ever seen. This type of trip would not have been possible with the original battery unless I had an overnight stay nearby.

 

[hcsharp]

Well kudos to you for at least trying! I love adventures like that. And it was very informative for all the rest of us.

What were your tires inflated to?

If I had only one request for a firmware update I would ask to eliminate the "Unknown number of miles remaining" message and go back to the days when they could somehow predict your range down to the last mile. A firmware update in 2011 or 12 changed it for the worse IMO.

 

[dhrivnak]

Hi Henry, I slightly over inflated with the fronts at 35 and rears at 45. Not quite sure if it made any difference.

 

[thefortunes]

Hi Henry, I slightly over inflated with the fronts at 35 and rears at 45. Not quite sure if it made any difference.

I initially ran 30/40 when I first bought my Roadster, but changed to 26/35 a few years ago (the recommended "comfort" settings).

While I'm sure my driving habits have also changed over the years (less aggressive) and that is also affecting the results, I have not seen any significant difference in my Wh/mi so I doubt that your over inflation made much of a difference either.

I may try to run a comparison over a period of time since I have a consistent repeatable 27 mile commute.

 

[hcsharp]

I initially ran 30/40 when I first bought my Roadster, but changed to 26/35 a few years ago (the recommended "comfort" settings).

While I'm sure my driving habits have also changed over the years (less aggressive) and that is also affecting the results, I have not seen any significant difference in my Wh/mi so I doubt that your over inflation made much of a difference either.

I may try to run a comparison over a period of time since I have a consistent repeatable 27 mile commute.

According to the Dept of Energy, under-inflating your tires will reduce your mileage by about .4% per 1 psi. But over-inflating will not increase your mileage at all. I'm sure it's not that simple but I couldn't find any graphs and the relationship is probably specific to each vehicle.

 

[dhrivnak]

>So for those with the 3.0 battery, does Performance mode going Red seem to make a difference in the car's behavior?

Behavior of the light switching was the same. That said, just because the light goes red I cannot observe *any* difference in behavior or performance. It's just a light changing is all.

The light goes red a lot less quickly in cool weather than hot, for whatever that is worth.

To me the red is still the same. It is basically half power which is the same as driving in range mode. So slower similar to a BMW 3 series.