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Hi Hallvardr!Everything works perfect here yes
Here is the company contact info: Kontakt
Hi Hallvardr!
Where in Norway are you located?
Hi Hallvardr!
I have a Roadster where the PEM has failed for the second time in two years.
My car has been in the Tesla workshop for 4 months now. I am considering to try to fix it myself after having read your story here. Do you have time for a little talk on the phone? You can call or send me a message at 913 02934.
Ronald
Hei Hallvard!Hei,
Jeg sendte nummeret ditt til han som fiksa bilen min, vi snakkes om du ikke hører noe fra han.
Har masa på han nåHei Hallvard!
jeg fikk en e-post fra en i Tyskland som tilbød å reparere PEM'en min. Ellers har jeg ikke hørt fra noen.
Takk Hallvard!
Fikk telefon fra han fredag.
Siste nytt fra meg: Bilen min har stått inne hos Tesla i mer enn 5 måneder. Torsdag i forrige uke ringte de og sa at nå var bilen min fiksa. De hadde kjørt en ny diagnose og funnet ut at det ikke var feil på PEM allikevel. Det var bare feil i en kabel og dessuten var 12V batteriet defekt. Dette hadde de fiksa helt gratis I utgangspunktet skulle de ha 117 000 for å bytte PEM.
Google Translate :
Latest news from me: My car has been with Tesla for more than 5 months. On Thursday last week they called and said that now my car was fixed. They had run a new diagnosis and found that there was no fault with PEM anyway. There was only one cable malfunction and besides, the 12V battery was defective. They had this fixed completely free of charge Initially they would have 117,000 to switch PEM.
Conrad Buck in Germany has rebuilt a lot of PEMs. He might be a long way from Norway but he knows what he’s doing. @warden_clyffeUnfortunately I don't know what your options are in Norway regarding 3rd party help (like Gruber or Carl Medlock).
I may have joined the club. Yesterday I plugged my roadster (2.5S) to the TS-70 after a short trip in town and left it for a few hours. Then I noticed that all lights were out on the charger and that the circuit breaker had cut the power. I unplugged and checked the VDS to find the message Powertrain Problem Restart When Safe (ID 905). Trying to charge with a mobile charger instead, I initially got blue light on the charge port, then the red light. This repeated automatically several times until I unplugged. The same message appeared again on the VDS.
Pulling, parsing and analyzing the logs, these were the first error messages of the day while the car was connected to the TS-70:
time error code Debug message according to Gruber newsletter
14:37:02 905 DMC HW: PhaseA Low Side Desat Fault
14:37:11 1141 [DMC WARNING Pole Power] [DMC FW: Pole Power]
14:37:11 1061 DMC FW: Line OverCurrent warning
14:37:11 1148 [DMC WARNING IA OverCurrent in Charge] [DMC WARNING 120]
14:37:11 1149 [DMC WARNING IB OverCurrent in Charge] [DMC WARNING 121]
14:37:11 933 DMC FW: Line OverCurrent fault
The following errors occured repeatedly and must be from the attempt to use the mobile charger:
time error code Debug message according to Gruber newsletter
18:32:45 905 DMC HW: PhaseA Low Side Desat Fault
18:32:47 1141 [DMC WARNING Pole Power] [DMC FW: Pole Power]
18:32:47 1061 DMC FW: Line OverCurrent warning
There is no fault light and the VDS message is gone after I dismissed it. I don't know if the car drives. Having read (all of) this thread leads me to believe that this might be the IGBT-insulation issue. In particular the ID-905 message suggests that, I believe. I therefore question if it is at all wise to try to drive the car.
Does anyone have suggestions for alternative explanations? It would be nice to check out the easier alternatives first. One could hope for a cable issue as it turned out for @ronalds in post #410 above...
Do I risk much if I try to drive the car? I have images in my head of fireworks and smoke erupting out the PEM as I try to back out of my garage ...
...yes, you joined the club (unfortunately), but this is not only failed insulations, you have most probably at least a handfull off blown igbt's, maybe plus a blown driver-board.
if you're clever, you do not power up your car anymore, please please do not try to reset it and try again, you might damage the ESS !
inhibit the APS, pull the service-disconnect (and the fuse for the 12V AUX-battery), take the PEM out and have it checked befor powering up your car again with it, because if you do so you might blow a fuse in your ESS, wich will make a battery-pull necessary...
Universal PEM: TPN 0600276899 rev AC; SAP 6008983 (PEM - 2.01 Remanufactured)
Standard PEM: TPN 0600276800 rev AC; SAP 6005203 (PEM)
Sport PEM: TPN 0600221601 rev AC; SAP 6004128 (PEM - US, SPORT )
I don't know for sure if all Remanufactured PEMs are universal, but it would be a smart move on Tesla's part to do that. I also don't know if the Firmware installed determines whether you have the Sport performance, or if there is a software switch to enable it. Most Roadsters already have the sport motor installed. I just pulled a sport motor a couple of weeks ago from a non-sport model.