-
Want to remove ads? Register an account and login to see fewer ads, and become a Supporting Member to remove almost all ads.
A LR? (As 21” on the Plaid maxes out at 560km).This is basically everything (the good things you mentioned) what I have been doing since I got my car in June.
This is my 3rd Tesla, got my first one more than 6 years ago. I've reading a lot of these threads during the years.
Keeping it below 60% / close to 50% pretty much all the time. And car sleeps every night and with different SOC and then charge after 3 or 6 hours during the night.
The BMS range has dropped from 604km to 600km (SMT shows 598km). 21" wheels summer and winter.
50% is a good number to reduce calendar aging but lower is even better.
My car often sleeps the night at 20-35% or so. At the moment 25% and will not be charged until early morning tomorrow, to 55%.
My last/first Tesla was a M3P that averaged 35.46% over two years. Had very low degradation.
I guess you have seen the data I usually posts about calendar and cyclic aging?
JzCastle
Member
Yes, MS LR.
Usually I end my day at 35% - 50%, then let the car sleep and charge during the night to 55% or 60%. If I used only a little I might leave it at 50% etc.
Yes, seen the data and have been sharing it..
Therefore a bit surpised after ~5 months until I finally got the diagnostic cable.
Yeah, not buying the 4% degradation
TeslaFi shows me 0.71%.
Teslafi use the data coming from the same source, but does not get very much data.
Teslafi use the first range value they get as the initial capacity (range really). So, if you get the nominal full pack to increase, you will see a nagative degradation when the range will be higher than the initial range.
Scan my tesla is BMS data more or less only. A few things is calculated from BMS data all other are the BMS own data that is the base for the OTA data that tesdie and teslafi use.
Scan My Tesla > Tessie abd Teslafi.
The full pack when new value is the specified capacity, set into the BMS by tesla. Hard coded ibto the BMS.
The EPA tests in US got 98.2 kWh out of the LR and 99.3 and 99.4kWh out of the Plaid. They use the same battery type, I think they should perform the same.
So 99.4 is the new capacity value and they also cone quite close to this in the EPA test.
The Teslas is built so they keep the full range until a little degradation already has occured. Not checked exactly but about 97.5-98kWh for full range on the Plaid.
Being below 97.5-98 (real capacity) means the battery is degraded even if this is at delivery.
In your case I do not think the real capacity is 95.4 kWh. It is most probably the BMS that is off, probably because it did not see enough of the battery capacity.
I have explained a way to calculate the real capacity, in a way that circumnavigates the BMS possible faulty estimation.
In short, if we know the SOC before and after a drive, and also know the delivered energy, we can calculate the capacity.
Knowing the SOC means the car need to sleep (Contactors disconnected and battery open circuit voltage can be measured). SOC duribg a drive is calculated abd not exact.
Heres one description of this principle:
Range Loss Over Time, What Can Be Expected, Efficiency, How to Maintain Battery Health
scottf200
Well-Known Member
Doesn't seem like there much of a 'different SOC' for the BMS measurements to work with to understand the high and lower voltages of the car. Charge to 90% occasion and let it sleep overnight as an example.
aerodyne
2 of 3 EV's - Defect Free!
True, but on the old MS, after years storing at 57%, only operating between 20-77% with maybe 5 charges to 93% on a trip, I did a long overnight destination charge at 16Kw to 100%, and actually "lost" a mile RR.
I never got to 100%, SMT showed 99.6% when charging stopped.
Maybe the BMS is smarter than we think.
khorton
Member
Questions about a 2022 MS LR - I'll be installing the EV Offer Model S/X CAN Diagnostic Cable (For 2021+ Model) and an OBDLink MX+.
- Do I need to remove the phone dock/charger before removing that narrow panel above the charger? Or, is it possible to remove that narrow panel above the dock/charger whilst the phone charger is still in place? Any tricks I should know about when installing the cable?
- Are they any issues if I leave the MX+ connected to the cable and have it buried behind that panel (to keep a clean look)? Or is it better to have the end of the cable coming out around the edge of that narrow panel so I can easily unplug and reconnect the MX+?
aerodyne
2 of 3 EV's - Defect Free!
I'm about to install the exact same setup in the same car.
Just waiting for the EV offer cable.
I believe from the instructions on the EV offer website you don't have to mess with the charging pads.
I'm familiar with the MX+ in my old 85D, had to unplug it often.
Planning on some sort of switch to turn power on and off to the unit, so I don't have to unplug it.
The only problem I had leaving it plugged it is that Tesla Service didn't like it, and would claim it either caused problems and would invalidate my warranty.
I'd also like to hear advice from others that have done this installation.
Just waiting for the EV offer cable.
I believe from the instructions on the EV offer website you don't have to mess with the charging pads.
I'm familiar with the MX+ in my old 85D, had to unplug it often.
Planning on some sort of switch to turn power on and off to the unit, so I don't have to unplug it.
The only problem I had leaving it plugged it is that Tesla Service didn't like it, and would claim it either caused problems and would invalidate my warranty.
I'd also like to hear advice from others that have done this installation.
I do not have the same cable, but you only need to pop loose the wireless charger dock by lifting it straight up.
There is four ”snap in place” mounts which do not need much force (but a firm force upwards) to pop loose.
After this the connector in the car is visible/accessible in the upper(forward) right corner beneith the charger dock.
Install the cable and the dongle, there is room to have everything conceiled below the charger.
Remount the charger dock, make sure it seats correct before poping it back.
Its a one minute job in total when you know how to do it. So, five minutes first time being carefull
No issues.
I initially had a interrupt cable (on-off button) with the power button visible to repower the MX+ when it lost the connection(it do loose the connection from time to time) but as I do not look on my tablet with SMT all the time, I do not know when the connection fails (tablet was in front of the steering wheel on my former M3P).
I now removed the interrupt cable as it is not really needed. Everything is hidden below the phone dock.
khorton
Member
I got the adapter cable and MX+ installed today. The Service Manual has useful info and pictures in the section 00 Inspection and Service -> 0005 Service Modes -> Toolbox 3 (Connect and Disconnect)
It was "fun" updating the firmware on the MX+, as the required procedure didn't match the official docs. The OBDLink iOS app refused to do anything useful when I tapped the "Check for Updates" button. But, tapping the area on the screen where the firmware version was displayed did advance the process to the next screen, which had a "Update Firmware" button.
Is it necessary to unplug the MX+ when updating the software on the car? Today I attempted to do the update from 2023.27.7 to 2023.27.12, and it failed. This was the first failed update I've had in over four years of owning Teslas, so it seems quite possible that the presence of the MX+ or the EVOffer adapter cable was the cause of the issue. I'll unplug the MX+ before updating once the car offers me the update again.
It was "fun" updating the firmware on the MX+, as the required procedure didn't match the official docs. The OBDLink iOS app refused to do anything useful when I tapped the "Check for Updates" button. But, tapping the area on the screen where the firmware version was displayed did advance the process to the next screen, which had a "Update Firmware" button.
Is it necessary to unplug the MX+ when updating the software on the car? Today I attempted to do the update from 2023.27.7 to 2023.27.12, and it failed. This was the first failed update I've had in over four years of owning Teslas, so it seems quite possible that the presence of the MX+ or the EVOffer adapter cable was the cause of the issue. I'll unplug the MX+ before updating once the car offers me the update again.
aerodyne
2 of 3 EV's - Defect Free!
I also had similar fun with my first MX+ and bricked it trying to follow update instructions.
They sent me a new one and I did not update it, ran fine with SMT.
I don't recall any problems with updating with MX installed, but it was not connected to phone during installs as I recall.
The above applied 3ish years ago on an older MS, so you might have a different expect on the newer car, as will I once I get the cable.
They sent me a new one and I did not update it, ran fine with SMT.
I don't recall any problems with updating with MX installed, but it was not connected to phone during installs as I recall.
The above applied 3ish years ago on an older MS, so you might have a different expect on the newer car, as will I once I get the cable.
aerodyne
2 of 3 EV's - Defect Free!
So, just installed the MX+ and EV Offer cable.
I followed the diagram on the EV Offer site. I did not have to remove the charging pads, just the drop down panel below the center screen.
Only two snap connectors. Used care, took my time, and a wide trim removal pry tool.
A fair amount of effort to tuck the cables and MX+ in, but they went under the center screen and in front of the charging pads ok. I recommend actuating the center screen to ensure nothing will get pinched.
I hope the MX will not require unplugging, as that would be time consuming.
With all the data on the Refresh MS energy screen and Service menu, the main reason for installing SMT for me is to see the nominal and new pack numbers to compare with Teslafi and Tessie and Recurrent.
I made a new battery tab, and screen grabbed. See below.
I would welcome comments on my results.
I followed the diagram on the EV Offer site. I did not have to remove the charging pads, just the drop down panel below the center screen.
Only two snap connectors. Used care, took my time, and a wide trim removal pry tool.
A fair amount of effort to tuck the cables and MX+ in, but they went under the center screen and in front of the charging pads ok. I recommend actuating the center screen to ensure nothing will get pinched.
I hope the MX will not require unplugging, as that would be time consuming.
With all the data on the Refresh MS energy screen and Service menu, the main reason for installing SMT for me is to see the nominal and new pack numbers to compare with Teslafi and Tessie and Recurrent.
I made a new battery tab, and screen grabbed. See below.
I would welcome comments on my results.
Attachments
Good work!
I do not know if there is s difference to mine ‘23 MSP, but in my case the most easy install must be to remove the charging pad. I also do not see how to connect the cable without removing the charging pad console.
(Mostly ment for others that are to do it.)
Most probably not needed.
I have removed it a few times (friends needing DTC’s read/reset on not Teslas). Not a problem in my way with removal of the charging dock.
93.2 kWh would be about 6% degradation and would be about the expected for a 1 to 1.5 year old car that is charged to 80% or so daily in a about average climate.
I have a slight memory of you charging ‘low’ ? (I might mix up members though)
How old is the car, build date?
If it is ~ 1.5 years we could expect about 4% loss from time if the SOC was at or below 55% most of the time.
The cyclic aging from your 45 FCE cycles can be more or less regarded from (less than 1%)
I know a few other MSP, one thats soon to be one year from delivery, with ~ 94.3 kWh right now (he charge like always, 80-90% or so I think).
I have had my MSP for six months, and it is soon 8 months since build date (3/27/2023). It was an inventory car when I bought it.
But since this spring the new regulations for overseaes shipping prohibits high SOC during the shipping. Tesla has started to give a 150km free SuC ticket to compensate as they do not charge them for delivery.
I got mine with 42%, so quite sure it was at low SOC during the shipping and the time in inventory.
I have just passed 10K km and the NFP was 97.9kWh yesterday, and nominal remaining at the last full charge was 98.4.
The reason for having low degradation is the low average SOC. I charge to 55% daily, and higher charges is done just before the drive, so the time at SOC > 55% is low.
khorton
Member
Questions about SMT iOS app (I'm running SMT 2.3.7 on an iPhone 13Pro running iOS 17.1.2, using an ODBLink MX+):
- Is is possible to log data directly from SMT, or do I need another app? If another app is needed, is Teslalogger the best bet?
- Can I make my own custom Dashboard? If so, how? I can see how to swap out gauges on an existing Dashboard, but cannot figure out how to make a dashboard showing 6 values in a grid, for example
I use teslalogger, you need a rasbery pie setup to receive data and to do the setup on the phone.
I use a separat device (android tablet) that is placed in the car with a sim card for internet connection that sends the data.
With help of the app ’tasker’ it wakes scan my tesla when the car is awake and SNT sends data until the car falls aslep, and then SMT shits down by tasker.
—> this gives data logged from all times possible for the car.
Its possible, at least with the android version. For the ios version i havent tried that, but I started as a iphone SMT user. Still have it installed.
I used the tablet like that on my former M3P, mounted in front of the steering wheel.
aerodyne
2 of 3 EV's - Defect Free!
May "22 build (18 months) MS LR, 10k miles, never above 85% nor below 22% SoC. Always between 50-62% in storage (garaged) gently driven in chill mode except for a few launches, less than a few minutes total. 241Wh/mi to date, never in extreme temps or weather.
Recently, the RR has dropped 10 miles. I was in the top third of the fleet, now passing the mean downward.
The interior in this area is identical to the '23. I was able to only pull the cover under the screen and tuck the adapter cables in the front of the panel. It was necessary to unplug the barbed white "Christmas Tree" push pin holding the existing harness to the cover. Then I attached the EV offer cable and MX+ and pushed the whole mess forward and under the screen.
aerodyne
2 of 3 EV's - Defect Free!
This is really good. I have an old Android clipped to the Visor now, but I like what you have way better. What is the tablet mount that you used?
The project "TeslaTab" is based in this thread, if anyone is interested to do something similar:
"TeslaTab" / S3XY Buttons -- Tacho, Logging, Diagnose, CAN-Bus Steuerung
Der Beitrag ist noch nicht fertig und wächst weiter, wenn ich Zeit dafür habe! Disclaimer Das Projekt war ursprünglich nur für mich selbst gedacht. Ganz nach dem Motto „Wissen ist Macht“, wollte ich das Fahrzeug in jeder Lebenslage besser kennenlernen und nicht nur hin und wieder die...
tff-forum.de
Similar threads
