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Some 2022 Model Ys shipping with MCU3 (AMD Ryzen)

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I tried posting this in another thread but it didn’t get as many views. For those of you that got the new Lithium Ion battery that runs at 15.5v does anyone have an air compressor recommendation that would work with the car? My current air compressor is only rated to 14V. Thanks.
 
So I’ll eat my words. My dad took delivery of his MYP 380xxx yesterday, and it is indeed Intel. No idea about the lithium battery or heated wipers, but I think all of those go hand in hand. He did say he was going to take delivery regardless of the processor.

Compared to my Ryzen M3P, the difference is certainly noticeable, but it’s not extreme. Unless you’re regularly going back to back, it’s not really an issue. We’ll see what happens over the next few years as the software gets potentially more demanding.
 
I tried posting this in another thread but it didn’t get as many views. For those of you that got the new Lithium Ion battery that runs at 15.5v does anyone have an air compressor recommendation that would work with the car? My current air compressor is only rated to 14V. Thanks.
No replies because no one has info to help you. You need to reach out to the manufacturers of the items you want to buy.

Or look for something like this https://smile.amazon.com/WANYE-Compressor-Dissipation-Rechargeable-Motorcycle/dp/B09Q6HDF9J/
USB charging so you could power directly from the cars USB ports which are 5V.
 
I tried posting this in another thread but it didn’t get as many views. For those of you that got the new Lithium Ion battery that runs at 15.5v does anyone have an air compressor recommendation that would work with the car? My current air compressor is only rated to 14V. Thanks.
I have one of these in each car and they air up the tires quickly off the regular 12V outlet. Been using it for years.

VIAIR 12V portable air compressor
 
Will it accept the 15.5V of the new lithium ion batteries? That is what he is asking. He has a 12V one but it won't accept 15.5V.
Hmmm.. Why would Tesla instantly make useless all the 12V accessories that owners used to use. I believe the 12V accessories draw up to what they need. I also know a tow truck can boost a dead 12V battery with a 16V truck battery with no issues.
 
Hmmm.. Why would Tesla instantly make useless all the 12V accessories that owners used to use. I believe the 12V accessories draw up to what they need. I also know a tow truck can boost a dead 12V battery with a 16V truck battery with no issues.
No one knows except Tesla engineers. Power devices draw amperage (current) up to what they need. They accept a certain range of voltage but the output voltage of the source stays the same (albeit with possible voltage drop at higher amperage draws). If you feed 240V into a 120V device it will fry. Same here. A lot of automotive systems handle 12V +/- a certain percentage so most can do 10-14 volts. Unfortunately, 15+ is too much. If your devices are 12-24V then they will work fine.
 
No one knows except Tesla engineers. Power devices draw amperage (current) up to what they need. They accept a certain range of voltage but the output voltage of the source stays the same (albeit with possible voltage drop at higher amperage draws). If you feed 240V into a 120V device it will fry. Same here. A lot of automotive systems handle 12V +/- a certain percentage so most can do 10-14 volts. Unfortunately, 15+ is too much. If your devices are 12-24V then they will work fine.
I could be wrong, but I'm thinking the fact that Tesla changed the battery without telling anyone means it ok and there are no special considerations to worry about.

1645980425110.png
 
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Well after 2 unsuccessful pick ups, rice size chipped paint on door edge, and the second time a very small ding in the door they fixed the paint on - they ended up just replacing the door. I finally picked up my Model YP from the Fremont factory, vin NF383xx yesterday. The SA told me 2 weeks ago when the car was ready for the first pickup that it had the Ryzen MCU, and it does. I need to check today if it has the lithium-ion battery(12v or 15.5v - which is it??) and the heated wipers. Need to check the thread on how to check for those. I have the tow package and the Pirelli P-Zero tires. This is my second model Y, my previous Y was the LR and was totaled after a j@ck@$$ rear ended me. I thought the acceleration on my LR was amazing, but the acceleration on this new Model YP is amazeballs!! It’s actually a little bit unnerving. Anywho.. I’ll figure out how to check for the battery and heated wipers and update the thread. And no.. In advance I’m not going to update some spreadsheet, you see I’m just far to lazy for that.
 
Well after 2 unsuccessful pick ups, rice size chipped paint on door edge, and the second time a very small ding in the door they fixed the paint on - they ended up just replacing the door. I finally picked up my Model YP from the Fremont factory, vin NF383xx yesterday. The SA told me 2 weeks ago when the car was ready for the first pickup that it had the Ryzen MCU, and it does. I need to check today if it has the lithium-ion battery(12v or 15.5v - which is it??) and the heated wipers. Need to check the thread on how to check for those. I have the tow package and the Pirelli P-Zero tires. This is my second model Y, my previous Y was the LR and was totaled after a j@ck@$$ rear ended me. I thought the acceleration on my LR was amazing, but the acceleration on this new Model YP is amazeballs!! It’s actually a little bit unnerving. Anywho.. I’ll figure out how to check for the battery and heated wipers and update the thread. And no.. In advance I’m not going to update some spreadsheet, you see I’m just far to lazy for that.
I have not heard of an instance where someone had AMD and did not have heated wipers or lithium 15V battery.
 
Great! - I tried snapping a pick of the wiper wiring harness - not sure if this confirms anything or not, snapped on the passenger side in the space by the hinge.
Yes, thats for the heated wiper park. If you take a similar picture from the right side after removing the trim cover above the drunk you should be able to get a picture of the wiring near the battery which can confirm 15V. Without removing the frunk, it is hard to get a good shot of the actual battery with the new HEPA filter. But the wiring to it is different so with the right picture you can tell. If you see red and black wrapped wires then it’s lithium ion.

35C225BC-DB9B-4776-8911-413520E17555.jpeg

Battery connector looks like this:
CC423EA1-5E88-4E1B-874C-A294721C4861.jpeg

Versus the old style with traditional posts like this:
C79F0B94-F704-4025-90E1-B0A56EA411DC.jpeg
 
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Yes, thats for the heated wiper park. If you take a similar picture from the right side after removing the trim cover above the drunk you should be able to get a picture of the wiring near the battery which can confirm 15V. Without removing the frunk, it is hard to get a good shot of the actual battery with the new HEPA filter. But the wiring to it is different so with the right picture you can tell. If you see red and black wrapped wires then it’s lithium ion.
Ok thanks for that info - I can confirm:
  • Ryzen MCU
  • Double pane front side windows
  • Heated wipers
  • Projector LED headlights
And should be able to confirm Lithium-ion battery tomorrow when the frunk is out for the homelink install.
 
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I just got my MYLR yesterday and am really enjoying it so far.

Mine has the AMD Ryzen and out of curiosity I thought I'd measure the voltage at the "12V" socket in the front console and compare it to my Chevy Avalanche. As the photos show, I measured 15.3V in the MYRL and 12.2V in the Avalanche. Both were in a cold garage with no load applied.

Anyway, this is probably a quick and easy way to confirm you have a Li-ion "12V" battery installed in your Tesla without having to open the frunk and pull off the big plastic cover.

Tesla Model Y AMD_result.jpg
Chevy Avalanche 12V_result.jpg
 
No one knows except Tesla engineers. Power devices draw amperage (current) up to what they need. They accept a certain range of voltage but the output voltage of the source stays the same (albeit with possible voltage drop at higher amperage draws). If you feed 240V into a 120V device it will fry. Same here. A lot of automotive systems handle 12V +/- a certain percentage so most can do 10-14 volts. Unfortunately, 15+ is too much. If your devices are 12-24V then they will work fine.
I believe accessories for the 12V cigarette charger port need to be able to handle 9V - 14V and the output isn't guaranteed to be a regulated 12V DC. This is also why accessories should work fine with the upgraded Li-ion battery. However, I believe the hitch hookup needs to be a regulated 12V DC and so the raw output from the battery wouldn't work and they need to provide an adapter to enable this.
 
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I believe accessories for the 12V cigarette charger port need to be able to handle 9V - 14V and the output isn't guaranteed to be a regulated 12V DC. This is also why accessories should work fine with the upgraded Li-ion battery. However, I believe the hitch hookup needs to be a regulated 12V DC and so the raw output from the battery wouldn't work and they need to provide an adapter to enable this.
9-14V does not include 15V so those will not work. If your accessories do 9-15 or 10-16 then they should be fine.