I didn’t keep records unfortunately, but tirerack has an MPG rating for these versus others in the class and they are all really tight. Honestly I don’t know how reliable logs are unless you live in an area with constant climate and you drive the same highway everyday or something. Otherwise there’s too many variables. And because it’s just my daily commute car, the ride quality is way more important to me than a few percentage points in range. My consumption sucks cuz I drive it like I stole it
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Sound Deadening Model 3
- Thread starter fly2damoon
- Start date
ZapCarM3
Member
So do we have a solid list of ideas? Do the newest production model 3s seem more quiet? I hear they are and I want to know why.
Can someone give links on what to buy to insulate Trunk and Wheel Wells? Is it Dynamat, Noico or Thinsulate and links to buy them from?
Occhis
Member
Take the time to read through this entire thread and most, if not all, of your questions will be answered.
I did and still lost on what’s the best option and where to buy. Looks like Noico and Thinsulate are good but do you install both on top of each other?
I bought a roll of thinsulate from Amazon, the SML600. SML600 is very thick, and can't really fit on the fender liner (SML400 will probably be easier to use). The fender liner sits very close to the body of the car, leaving very few areas you can out the thinsulate.
I added a few pieces to the fender liner, to the frunk corners where the strut sits, and to the empty space behind the side trunk liner. I think I used only 1/4 of the roll. I also added dynamat where I could.
I haven't driven the car yet, so can't say if any of it helped.
I added a few pieces to the fender liner, to the frunk corners where the strut sits, and to the empty space behind the side trunk liner. I think I used only 1/4 of the roll. I also added dynamat where I could.
I haven't driven the car yet, so can't say if any of it helped.
TOPSCRT
Member
There is space to put sound deadening in the fender, just not on the liner. The rear is accessed through the trunk, behind the side panels. It's a big empty void in those areas. I loosely stuffed thinsulate in there. The right side, you will need to pull the subwoofer out. I did not disconnect the wires, they were long enough to move to the side.
In front the space is accessed through the wheel well. It is also a fairly large void of space. I believe some adhesive will need to be used to keep it in the fender. I plan to do this next because the rear made a noticeable difference in muffling road noise.
I found the best solution
https://www.amazon.com/Warmers-Fold...t=&hvlocphy=9032194&hvtargid=pla-836516025104
https://www.amazon.com/Warmers-Fold...t=&hvlocphy=9032194&hvtargid=pla-836516025104
superbaka
Member
I've been hoping for a while that someone with a newer build would take things apart and take some comparison photos. I myself have a mid 2018 build.
Yup, I glued thinsulate to the plastic cover. The gap between the liner and strut tower is pretty large, so I stacked 2 pieces on top of each other. I don't think it made much difference tbh.
I tried it based on ICE engine covers having sound deadening material. Oh well
jrweiss98020
Tessa's Tesla
I have a 2019 M3 (delivered Sep), and I don't hear much wind noise. The tire noise predominates.
I ordered the door seals and frunk/trunk liners from RPMTesla, and will report back when I get them installed.
I ordered the door seals and frunk/trunk liners from RPMTesla, and will report back when I get them installed.
superbaka
Member
Did you also use sound deadening material ie: dynamat around the strut towers and wheel wells? Or just the thinsulate? I'm about to begin this project.
I purchased and installed the "Z" seals and "P" seals. It has made an enormous difference to the noise at 60-75 mph. Unfortunately, this improvement is only on asphalt and concrete roads. As soon as you're riding on "chip seal", which unfortunately is a lot of roads around here that aren't major arterial roads, the model 3 is deafeningly loud.
I think the next step is wheel well insulation. When I drive over gravel or newly laid chip seal, the noise sounds similar to shaking pennies around in a can (whereas in my old BMWs, it was far quieter - like the tin can was insulated from inside).
I don't believe tearing out the interior and applying dynamat (or similar product) is going to fix these issues. I think the next step would be to replace the suspension bushings where the noise is transmitted to the chassis (this is the source of that rumbling that you can't get rid of on poor road surfaces). In racing, we'd replace the bushings with the hardest, stiffest ones available to transmit the best road feel to the driver. But in something that isn't a racecar, you want something that is far softer to reduce NVH and increase comfort - albeit at the expense of "handling".
I think the next step is wheel well insulation. When I drive over gravel or newly laid chip seal, the noise sounds similar to shaking pennies around in a can (whereas in my old BMWs, it was far quieter - like the tin can was insulated from inside).
I don't believe tearing out the interior and applying dynamat (or similar product) is going to fix these issues. I think the next step would be to replace the suspension bushings where the noise is transmitted to the chassis (this is the source of that rumbling that you can't get rid of on poor road surfaces). In racing, we'd replace the bushings with the hardest, stiffest ones available to transmit the best road feel to the driver. But in something that isn't a racecar, you want something that is far softer to reduce NVH and increase comfort - albeit at the expense of "handling".
Agree with the assessment on the bushings (and perhaps other touchpoints on Tesla’s). A challenging DIY problem to solve. I was recently looking into this and it is helpful looking for these issues on OTHER cars to get ideas (warning: it can be a black hole of research). As an example, in looking at some of the buffeting issues the Model S has, much of that originates with road vibration being transmitted to the cabin. I found similar threads on other cars, and sometimes folks try to retrofit solutions from other manufacturers to their own cars. Volvo, (again, just an example) has a vibration damper bolted to the front crossmember. It can be seen here: Volvo S40 Vibration damper. Crossmember - 30714071 | Volvo Parts Webstore, Oak Park IL
Another short thread on a Golf forum: Rear subframe Harmonics damper from MQB Audi A3
I even found one car that had them bolted right to the control arm (I.e. closest to the source of the vibration)...can’t find it now.
These things are basically tuned mass dampers. I suspect Teslas would benefit from a few of these bolted here or there...heck, my 67 Firebird convertible came with FOUR 25 lbs weights (canisters filled with a weight and oil) - one bolted to each corner of the car to quell vibrations. Manufacturers likely hate to do this, but it is actually very common to find these on cars.
I added dynamat extreme to the wheel wells and around the strut tower
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