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Wiki Sudden Loss Of Range With 2019.16.x Software

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You still disagree? Didn’t think so
let me help you out bud, @MelvinLee
Still disagree? I didn't think so. :D

So, as I said much earlier in this thread. let's put this myth to bed. those who bought a car and have to update to maintain a warranty, this condition is effective Feb 1, 2019. anyone who bought a model S 85 variant new before then, you will not have this limitation. anyone who bought a used 85 prior to 2019, check your warranty, you have one of two.
PSA: print it out and save it. Tesla is required to keep access to this warranty by law, but they don't have to make it downloadable for you on the internet. Again, put this myth to rest now please.
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On June 7, 2018, I supercharged to 265 miles! A three and half years old S85 at that time !!!

Miracle battery with zero degradation or a lying BMS?

On Edit: I was so surprised that I even took a picture of the screen.
Also, my rated miles used from point A to point B always pretty much the same, few miles + or -

Proof is in the pudding. As I said, I charged to 100% giving an indicated range of 253 miles and then did an actual continuous drive of 250 miles at 60-65 mph, arriving with a few miles to spare. So yes, I believe the 253 mile range indicated at a 100% charge prior to the forced update was accurate. If the range indication was inaccurate, I would have run out of battery power before reaching the point B charger, which as I noted was 250 miles from the point A charger.

Did you attempt to drive 265 continuous miles at 65 mph after charging to an indicated range of 265 miles and if so, what was the result?
 
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Hi, I find the numbers interesting.

Being Elctronics Engineer for many decades and from reading Li-Ion papers for years, my brain rules out, that a degradation of 1,56% over six years of use is possible. I think the BMS has failed to correctly identify/estimate/measure the degradation. Only the new Jeff Dahn & Dalhouisie Team NMC cells degrade that little A Wide Range of Testing Results on an Excellent Lithium-Ion Cell Chemistry to be used as Benchmarks for New Battery Technologies

Own experience with Li-Ion (NMC though) is:
A: Even with the most perfect treatment of Li-Ion, internal resistance grows over time, so with same remaning capacity, range should be shorter, just because of bigger heat loss.
B: At work we have Lenovo Laptops, that have been powered on everyday, but at only 55% StateofCharge. The BMS thinks they did not degrade at all over the last 3 years, but the battery life from 55% and down is terrible and the battery goes warm, so has high internal resistance
C: I had to dismantle my 8 year old Nokia Windows Phone last week and lift the cell voltage from 2,45V to 3,22V before battery protection allowed it to charge, because it had been powered off for some months and my son wanted it for Alarm Clock. Battery has same capacity as last spring (it only charge to 55% only as well:)) but the self discharge, when powered off, is approx 5% per 2 days.

All above changes reduces 'range' So I propose that the 253 miles of range was dead wrong (as Tesloop and Tesla Bjørn has experienced with cars dying with miles still on the gauge).

I cannot know whether your capacity should be 223 miles or higher, that depends on whether your batteri has been top-capped.

If you were hit by both 'more correct estimate' and capping, then Tesla's timing is bad. If they first told us that the fantastic low degradation we (*) have experienced was partly due to a bad BMS algorithm and that a new version of SW now report the correct range, so we no longer risk stranding a cold vinter night on a dark highway, then we may have accepted that as necessary. (And Tesla will not need to replace batteries, which they had to for both Tesloop and Bjørn)

A later message to those capped, that the capping is a temporary safety measure, untill Tesla figures out how to handle the assumed safety issue, would as well be less bad for Tesla trustworthieness, than this thread.

(*) Dec 2015 S 70D, BMS Reported range when new: 364 km, now 351 km a dgeradation of around 3,5%. Never the less I tell ABetterRoutePlanner that my battery has degraded 7% and my car uses 205 Wh/km at 110 km/h, which makes me hit the SUC with 17%, when ABRP calculted 18%)
This has got to one the best posts of this crazy long thread. Thanks!!
 
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That'd be too easy... and Tesla never goes the easy route.



Still have it.



The short answer is simple: It's not in Tesla's best interest to make the cars easily repaired, serviceable, upgradable (hardware wise), etc.

<rant>
The longer answer: Let's cut through the crap and realize that Tesla is a for-profit entity. Their public facing mission, "to accelerate the advent of sustainable transport," while maybe the goal originally, is definitely not the same as the real mission today: To make as much money as possible. To do that, they have to sell new cars. If someone totals a Tesla vehicle, that's awesome for Tesla. It means that someone is pretty likely to buy another Tesla. If someone takes that salvage car, fixes it, and sells it... that's one less car Tesla will sell. You can try to spin that every which way ("the people buying salvages wouldn't buy new," or, "the people working on salvage cars aren't the same people that would buy a new car," etc etc etc), but understand its complete BS, especially when we're talking about cars in the Model 3 price range. Sure, someone who wants to fix up a Model S for under $40k isn't likely to spend $150k on a new loaded Model S... but they're pretty likely to buy a Model 3.

It pisses me off to no end to find a perfectly working vehicle be salvage titled and blacklisted because of a literal dent in a quarter panel. Tesla cuts off supercharging, connectivity, etc. Doesn't matter what the actual damage is, mileage, warranty remaining, etc... if an insurance company decides it's a total loss, then you're totally screwed. Seriously, from Tesla's perspective a dent in a quarter panel can void your entire warranty, cause you to lose features, etc.

It's always easier to buy a new car from an immediate financial impact perspective. You can't really take out a loan to fix up a salvage Tesla. You're going out of pocket on that. But, you can pick up a new Model 3 for ~$500/mo. The people with the coin to spend on fixing up a wrecked Tesla generally have the means to buy a new Tesla... and, in my experience, many of them do go that route at some point.

The harder Tesla makes it to do anything with these cars without them, the more that shifts the spectrum in their favor towards new purchases. While there is a small community of folks with the knowledge needed to actually make some progress on third party repairs, most of the people claiming to be able to do so don't know anything about how to deal with these vehicles outside of the stuff common to all vehicles (I won't mention any names, but there's several high profile folks who make it look like they know everything about theses vehicles and in reality know jack s***, just scamming people out of time and money all around).

Outside of Tesla, I'd say there's probably less than 15 people with the knowledge needed to actually work on the bulk of the systems on these vehicles without insider help... and of those people, 5 or fewer with the knowledge to actually continue to do so by developing tools needed for the tasks. Figuring out how to work on these cars without Tesla tools requires the skill set of software and hardware developers that are in a small niche capable of such reverse engineering that is what seems to be a dying breed. The kids coming out of college with all sorts of tech degrees know nothing about this sort of work. The vast majority of people who are both inclined to and capable of such work tend to have little to no formal training, myself included.

Overall, Tesla's not going to make things any easier unless eventually they're ordered to by a court with some authority over them. They don't care much about right to repair type laws, since no one tries to hold them accountable. They skirt the law in other places (software copyright, for example) without consequence. They know what they're doing, and they have no intention of doing anything owner/customer friendly outside of the sale and delivery process. Everything else is secondary to the actual mission: making money (ie: selling new cars). Yes, things like service, superchargers, etc all are needed to market for those sales... but they don't need to be perfect.
</rant>
That was quite the rant. Some of what you stated could be the result of a bunker mentality developed over years of battles with the media. They trust no one. There is validity to what you state regarding the financial benefits of blacklisting vehicles, but I think the reasons for their actions are more a combination of many factors, not just money.
 
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Proof is in the pudding. As I said, I charged to 100% giving an indicated range of 253 miles and then did an actual continuous drive of 250 miles at 60-65 mph, arriving with a few miles to spare. So yes, I believe the 253 mile range indicated at a 100% charge prior to the forced update was accurate. If the range indication was inaccurate, I would have run out of battery power before reaching the point B charger, which as I noted was 250 miles from the point A charger.

I was not questioning you observations. I was just bringing up a different variation as it applies to my car. I still can not explain my case though.

Did you attempt to drive 265 continuous miles at 65 mph after charging to an indicated range of 265 miles and if so, what was the result?

No, I do not attempt to drive 265 continuous miles without any charge during that stretch. Have never been a good gambler ;)
 
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What you might fail to realize is that the current warranty terms posted is not the same for the older cars. When I bought my car there was no such requirement to the updates to be prerequisite for the warranty to apply.
You fail to realize this warranty pertains to all Tesla’s just as stated in the battery portion. So yes even your Tesla is applied to this warranty now
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What you might fail to realize is that the current warranty terms posted is not the same for the older cars. When I bought my car there was no such requirement to the updates to be prerequisite for the warranty to apply.
What you might fail to realize is that the current warranty terms posted is not the same for the older cars. When I bought my car there was no such requirement to the updates to be prerequisite for the warranty to apply.
Tesla doesn’t give a *sugar* about your prior warranty. Just like you no longer have to have a service every year. Or do you believe you do since that’s what your original warranty stated?
 
The signed purchase sale agreement that you have with Tesla is all that matters with regards to warranty terms.

They have changed over the years....
They wouldn’t be including older cars in the terms if that was the case. Like I already said than you must have to service your car yearly? Cause the new warranty no longer requires you too
 
They wouldn’t be including older cars in the terms if that was the case. Like I already said than you must have to service your car yearly? Cause the new warranty no longer requires you too
Can’t have the best of both worlds since your old warranty required a yearly service and this one no longer does. So do you think you still have to get it serviced yearly?
This was effective Feb 1st
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Can’t have the best of both worlds since your old warranty required a yearly service and this one no longer does. So do you think you still have to get it serviced yearly?
This was effective Feb 1st
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The effective date applies to the date of the purchased cars, not when that was printed ;)

What does effective date means to you?

Also, new warranty policies are not retroactive, you know?
 
Again you’re incorrect and clearly misunderstood to believe they would even mention a Model S 60 if this warranty doesn’t apply to all Tesla’s. But since you live in your own fantasy world believe what u want cuz regardless they will force the updates to ur car regardless
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Well I choose to not pay a yearly service that this warranty states is not necessary and you can follow yours which states you must have a yearly service
 
They wouldn’t be including older cars in the terms if that was the case. Like I already said than you must have to service your car yearly? Cause the new warranty no longer requires you too
They aren't. You're reading it wrong. Older cars that have their original battery still installed are not covered by the terms in the document you posted. Read through that battery section of the warranty and you'll also discover there is nothing specific about software updates as pertains to battery warranties, first of all. Next, the voided warranty terms later in that document can't and don't supercede previous warranty terms of previously bought cars with their original batteries. It's just the way it is. That's how commerce works. Further, this battery warranty doesn't even cover previously bought batteries; it only covers new ones bought after Feb 1 2019 OR batteries replaced under warranty after Feb 1 2019. Replacement under a previous warranty is the only way a battery in an old 85 from 2013 would fall under this new 2019 warranty. Just come off it and bow out. I appreciate it if you're trying to help, but you're beyond that now and are just trying to salvage some kind of bunk argument to save face and not be wrong.
 
They wouldn’t be including older cars in the terms if that was the case. Like I already said than you must have to service your car yearly? Cause the new warranty no longer requires you too
They did not require it when I bought my car. Of course you will have to litigate if anyone you do business with fails to honor a contract. That’s how it works in the US.
 
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Can’t have the best of both worlds since your old warranty required a yearly service and this one no longer does. So do you think you still have to get it serviced yearly?
This was effective Feb 1st
View attachment 455160
I’m pretty sure the old Warranty was pretty specific that servicing, or the lack of it, did NOT affect the Warranty
 
No, I do not attempt to drive 265 continuous miles without any charge during that stretch. Have never been a good gambler ;)

I don’t do it unless absolutely necessary. I was driving to the west coast from Louisville Kentucky and looking at PlugShare et al., I couldn’t find any intermediate place to stop and add a charge.

OTOH, after the forced update I drove from FL to Boston. Stopped at Lumberton N.C. to charge to get to the next leg of the trip (Rocky Mount, NC). Added 50% additional charge (charged to indicated range of 180 miles for a 120 mile drive) and the indicated range hit 0 about 1 mile before reaching the supercharger. Then, when in Boston the car wouldn’t go into Drive, showing numerous error messages including that the HV battery voltage was too low, even though the range indicator said I had over 150 miles range left. Tesla towed the car, but of course it worked then. They were able to see all the error messages by checking the logs, but they could not reproduce the problem. All I know is that I had no problems until the firmware update was forced onto my car.
 
They wouldn’t be including older cars in the terms if that was the case. Like I already said than you must have to service your car yearly? Cause the new warranty no longer requires you too

Tesla services my car yearly. My car includes an 8 year warranty plus 8 years of service. But my car was a special case. Not free to discuss why.
 
I don’t do it unless absolutely necessary. I was driving to the west coast from Louisville Kentucky and looking at PlugShare et al., I couldn’t find any intermediate place to stop and add a charge.

OTOH, after the forced update I drove from FL to Boston. Stopped at Lumberton N.C. to charge to get to the next leg of the trip (Rocky Mount, NC). Added 50% additional charge (charged to indicated range of 180 miles for a 120 mile drive) and the indicated range hit 0 about 1 mile before reaching the supercharger. Then, when in Boston the car wouldn’t go into Drive, showing numerous error messages including that the HV battery voltage was too low, even though the range indicator said I had over 150 miles range left. Tesla towed the car, but of course it worked then. They were able to see all the error messages by checking the logs, but they could not reproduce the problem. All I know is that I had no problems until the firmware update was forced onto my car.
I have a friend that’s experiencing the exact same thing where the car won’t go in drive... I also had mine show a few errors right after the forced update... low voltage, etc and than it performed a system check and was fine. What do you have P90DL?