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Taptes Model 3 USB Hub

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Just got mine. Fits nicely. internal data port doesn't work for me. The front one does with by USB sticks and SSD. Internal gives me nothing with either USB or SSD. Let me stick a screw driver in the ports and see if I can scratchs them up a bit.

Update: it's working now. Took it apart, scratched up the usb connecters and now it works.
The left port (from your model 3) goes to the front facing data port, the right port goes to the internal one. There is no logic internally, no hub or nothing.

I plugged the device into a hub from my PC, so use the correct one input to test the correct port.
 
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Just got mine. Fits nicely. internal data port doesn't work for me. The front one does with by USB sticks and SSD. Internal gives me nothing with either USB or SSD. Let me stick a screw driver in the ports and see if I can scratchs them up a bit.

Update: it's working now. Took it apart, scratched up the usb connecters and now it works.
The left port (from your model 3) goes to the front facing data port, the right port goes to the internal one. There is no logic internally, no hub or nothing.

I plugged the device into a hub from my PC, so use the correct one input to test the correct port.

yeah, it seems that installing the hub and pulling it out multiple times helps fix the no data or power issues
 
Got mine yesterday. Wanted to test it before trying it in the car, so tried hooking up a flash drive, see if it would connect to my computer. Nothing. On all of the inputs/outputs. Dead unit. Took it apart, examined everything, found several janky solders (I do electronic repair, so am equipped to find and fix this kind of thing), but nothing that shouldn't be working. I noticed the cheapo connector they used to connect the 2 pcbs doesn't fit right when the thing is installed in the case - possible problem. Cleaned them up, tested with the 2 pcbs held firmly together, everything works as it's supposed to. Reinstalled the pcbs into the case, noted that there's no way to fit that problem connector in all the way, and resealed the case - nothing, dead unit again. So in my case, it's the lousy connector between the 2 pcbs that's killing it. I don't know if I have the inclination to futz with it further. So now, I have 2 non-functional hubs - meh.
 
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@TapTes hopefully you can create a new batch of the hubs and send them to everyone with issues. Its pretty widespread and honestly, a product like this (usb hubs) that is so common shouldnt have this issue. I think you should also just allow data to all the ports and not just the hidden one and 1 external one. This is what my setup looks like now, still requiring a second hub for 2 wireless usb adapters

2020-01-31
 
Got mine today. Plugged in my Nomad wireless charger into the 2x power ports, my 500GB WD SSD into the internal USB port, and my 8bitdo SNES controller into the left data+power port. All works great. My only complaint is that the internal USB connection is pretty loose (I tested multiple cables, - it's the port), but with the SSD "wedged" in there, and magnet-ed in, I don't think it's going anywhere. I saw a post in this thread that said even the Jeda hub has a somewhat loose internal USB port, which is... interesting.

I will note I didn't need to insert/remote anything multiple times. It all just worked.

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Anyone notice that if you unplug whatever it is you have connected from the right power-only USB port and then plug it back in, the dash cam (if plugged into the hidden compartment) momentarily disconnects and reconnects? You can see the dash cam icon disappear and then reappear moments later. Very strange, no? It doesn’t do this with the left power-only USB port.

Not really an issue. Just an observation.
 
You have to remove some sort of coating off the usb that connects to the car and the internal usb that connects to your SSD. I had to use a little sand paper to cause enough friction to remove it. Some people only had to push it in multiple times to remove the coating. Good luck
 
Yep, I have the same issue and concur...

>> @TapTes hopefully you can create a new batch of the hubs and send them to everyone with issues. Its pretty widespread and honestly, a product like this (usb hubs) that is so common shouldnt have this issue. I think you should also just allow data to all the ports and not just the hidden one and 1 external one. <<
 
Anyone notice that if you unplug whatever it is you have connected from the right power-only USB port and then plug it back in, the dash cam (if plugged into the hidden compartment) momentarily disconnects and reconnects? You can see the dash cam icon disappear and then reappear moments later. Very strange, no? It doesn’t do this with the left power-only USB port.

Not really an issue. Just an observation.

Anybody else confirm this is normal?
 
Yep, I have the same issue and concur...

>> @TapTes hopefully you can create a new batch of the hubs and send them to everyone with issues. Its pretty widespread and honestly, a product like this (usb hubs) that is so common shouldnt have this issue. I think you should also just allow data to all the ports and not just the hidden one and 1 external one. <<

We’ll see the additional data ports in gen 2 of the hub :rolleyes:
 
To people thinking that designing USB hubs is easy, you've all heard the various issues Jeda and TapTes is experiencing showing the exact opposite what is "easy and obvious." The real issue with all the USB hub issues is the limited power budget that using only 2 USB ports can provide (as they are not USB-PD ports).

Anyone notice that if you unplug whatever it is you have connected from the right power-only USB port and then plug it back in, the dash cam (if plugged into the hidden compartment) momentarily disconnects and reconnects? You can see the dash cam icon disappear and then reappear moments later. Very strange, no? It doesn’t do this with the left power-only USB port.

Not really an issue. Just an observation.

After hearing about the issues you're experiencing and thinking about the design of the TapTes, I believe Jeda actually engineered a USB hub controller board to work with the limited power budget on the dual ports in order to spread data ports across all 5 USB ports in the Jeda hub.

The TapTes appears like its simply 2 USB data pass through ports (left port and SSD compartment) and the electrical equivalent of a Y-splitter on the top right 3 ports. The momentary disconnects you're seeing is likely the result of there being no power control on the power ports and devices simply tapping onto the 5V bus causing an under-voltage event and power-cycling your dashcam drive.

In lamens terms its drawing so much power it causes your usb drive to reset each time you plug a device into the power port. It took Jeda quite sometime to identify the issues within their USB hub that TapTes bypassed entirely by not including a USB hub at all.
 
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I installed mine on Sunday and also encountered issues. I made sure I scratch the USB ports first as others have suggested however the Dashcam icon wouldn’t come up on the screen even though using the same ports would allow my wireless to work just fine. Eventually after several insertions and removals it showed up but scared that it will be temperamental like that every time I take it out.

I notice that the “Data+power” port is very loose (crap quality) with my USB stick (Sandisk iXpand) flopping around in it which may be the issue. In the Tesla USB port it is super snug. For those ixpand users I also note that the hidden compartment, just like the Jeda, is too small for the ixpand.

I have not seen the Jeda in person to comment but the build quality of this one I suspect isn’t as good based on those USB ports from what I’ve seen. It’ll be interesting to see what their customer service is like but I suspect it can only be better than Jeda’s non existent.
 
Same issue with mine. After plugging/unplugging several times using a USB extension and testing on my computer it started working, but still concerning. I contacted TapTes and they're sending me a replacement from the next batch to test. They're also providing a prepaid shipping label to send my unit back to their engineering group to try and troubleshoot the problem. They've always emailed back within 24 hours (usually within minutes). Great support.