Akikiki
A'-Lo-HA ! y'all
I just contacted @kdday and asked him if he and @verygreen can confirm MCU2's USB are USB 3. Kdday says they are not USB3. So, that slows that idea.
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Tesla infotainment system upgradeable from MCU1 to MCU2
- Thread starter MurrayJimW
- Start date
New record. Dropped my car off at 920am, car is ready 1220pm. Saw 2 software update notifications. Amazing that they took 5 days and totally failed on the MCU2 AND HW3 for my car 6 short weeks ago but could breeze through now.
FMinMI
Member
FMinMI
Member
Well, that seems to contradict what I have seen (at least on the power side). I know for a fact that before the upgrade I could NOT use my wireless charger setup plugged into the USB port but now it is working. And I had tried it multiple times before with failure each time.
So maybe the speed is the same but power has been increased? I will wait for my phone to get really low this time and try and charge it to full with my current setup just to see if it is battery-level dependent. I can't say I did that test previously...
Akikiki
A'-Lo-HA ! y'all
@Red_DS, You gave me an idea that I am going to work on. I wrote it up to share it here. It did not occur to me until you mentioned the USB3. This won't improve speed, but it might improve how we use or share our USBs.
My thanks to you.
Here’s an idea. We can add some shared USB ports and keep them out of sight – and not adding them at the rear console’s USB ports. We can add two short USB extension cables so the ends are convenient under the MCU behind the cubby. This gives up the flexibility to add small USB hubs. And run USB cables into the glove box, the inside the front of the center console and even convert from USB to USB-C access.
The two USB ports at the back of the center console are USB extension cables about four feet long and run along the right side of the console, up under the cubby and plug male ends into the back of the MCU. These connections on the back of the MCU are not accessible when the MCU is installed.
But if we insert a short 12-15” USB cable between the cable going to the back of the MCU we have the flexibility to improve our USB options accessible under the MCU and behind the cubby.
Visualize this. Procure two 12-15” male/female extension cables. On the back of the MCU unplug the male end of the USB cable. Plug in the MCU the male end of the male/female new 12-15” extension cable. Run the female end down behind the MCU to the area behind the cubby. Now plug the original male end into the 12-15” extension’s female end. Make sure this new female/male ends connection is accessible under the MCU. After the MCU is reinstalled, we have indirect access to the MCU’s two USB ports behind the cubby.
These two cables, if available could be added to the car while the techs are performing the MCU2 upgrade or MCU1 replacement. I would recommend leaving the cable readily available with special instructions that explain why you want these added. And hope for the best.
Procure two 3-port USB hubs. For each of the two extension cables, unplug the extension cable and plug in one of the hubs. Plug the long cables back in that run to the back of the console. You have two remaining USB ports from each hub located near the bottom of the MCU.
One of the new hubs could be USB-C and the other a standard USB. From these remaining 4 ports, you could route USB-C or USB into the front of the center console, or into the glove box. These could provide USB power to wireless charger, or hidden SSD in the glove box, and still have extra USB ports for other devices. The point of this effort was increasing USB ports and in a less conspicuous location so as not to be disturbed.
If I get the cables and hubs to work this, I will tear down my dash and remove my MCU just to add the two extra 12-15" extension cables. Then I can add or remove the hubs as necessary, because I will have easy access to USB ports on the back of the MCU without pulling the MCU again.
My thanks to you.
Here’s an idea. We can add some shared USB ports and keep them out of sight – and not adding them at the rear console’s USB ports. We can add two short USB extension cables so the ends are convenient under the MCU behind the cubby. This gives up the flexibility to add small USB hubs. And run USB cables into the glove box, the inside the front of the center console and even convert from USB to USB-C access.
The two USB ports at the back of the center console are USB extension cables about four feet long and run along the right side of the console, up under the cubby and plug male ends into the back of the MCU. These connections on the back of the MCU are not accessible when the MCU is installed.
But if we insert a short 12-15” USB cable between the cable going to the back of the MCU we have the flexibility to improve our USB options accessible under the MCU and behind the cubby.
Visualize this. Procure two 12-15” male/female extension cables. On the back of the MCU unplug the male end of the USB cable. Plug in the MCU the male end of the male/female new 12-15” extension cable. Run the female end down behind the MCU to the area behind the cubby. Now plug the original male end into the 12-15” extension’s female end. Make sure this new female/male ends connection is accessible under the MCU. After the MCU is reinstalled, we have indirect access to the MCU’s two USB ports behind the cubby.
These two cables, if available could be added to the car while the techs are performing the MCU2 upgrade or MCU1 replacement. I would recommend leaving the cable readily available with special instructions that explain why you want these added. And hope for the best.
Procure two 3-port USB hubs. For each of the two extension cables, unplug the extension cable and plug in one of the hubs. Plug the long cables back in that run to the back of the console. You have two remaining USB ports from each hub located near the bottom of the MCU.
One of the new hubs could be USB-C and the other a standard USB. From these remaining 4 ports, you could route USB-C or USB into the front of the center console, or into the glove box. These could provide USB power to wireless charger, or hidden SSD in the glove box, and still have extra USB ports for other devices. The point of this effort was increasing USB ports and in a less conspicuous location so as not to be disturbed.
If I get the cables and hubs to work this, I will tear down my dash and remove my MCU just to add the two extra 12-15" extension cables. Then I can add or remove the hubs as necessary, because I will have easy access to USB ports on the back of the MCU without pulling the MCU again.
Akikiki
A'-Lo-HA ! y'all
That was not a request. It appears the estimated quote they sent him exposed a MCU part number not seen before and a description that represented it did not include the screen.
I'd recently heard a rumor that Tesla has a shortage of screens. That could explain why his did not include the screen. But he didn't get the price reduction until he asked for it.
I'd recently heard a rumor that Tesla has a shortage of screens. That could explain why his did not include the screen. But he didn't get the price reduction until he asked for it.
Hey Guys, just a question, I got my car from the SC, after it was upgraded from AP2.0/MCU1 to AP3.0/MCU2.
All settings seemed restored (at least the ones I checked), see Tesla Theater, all the games, etc. The autopilot finished calibrating on the drive back, however, the summon screen showed camera(s) still calibrating (99%)
My question is regarding Dashcam (as I never had it in my car before)
Do I need a USB drive before I can see the camera icon? I was also expecting to see the DashCam viewer, but didn't see that too.
I was expecting to see a camera icon with an "x" as I didn't have a usb drive plugged in. Or the icon only shows up if you have a USB drive?
All settings seemed restored (at least the ones I checked), see Tesla Theater, all the games, etc. The autopilot finished calibrating on the drive back, however, the summon screen showed camera(s) still calibrating (99%)
My question is regarding Dashcam (as I never had it in my car before)
Do I need a USB drive before I can see the camera icon? I was also expecting to see the DashCam viewer, but didn't see that too.
I was expecting to see a camera icon with an "x" as I didn't have a usb drive plugged in. Or the icon only shows up if you have a USB drive?
I see this approach as a huge advantage to being able to hide the USB memory drive where the Sentry footage is stored. Let's face it, a smart thief cloud just reach in and steal the thumb drive to remove evidence with the current placement.
I just messaged the SC and they sent me an updated invoice.
I dropped off my 2017 Model S with AP2 at the service center in West Palm Beach on Friday morning. They completed the MCU and FSD upgrade over the weekend and I picked up my car today (Monday).
I wont go over all of the benefits, they've been repeated dozens of times already.
No regerts.
I wont go over all of the benefits, they've been repeated dozens of times already.
No regerts.
Gotta insert a USB before it enables dashcam per menu setting. That's what I'm doing now and taking notes for my review. I have ic screen protector issue but otherwise was smooth sailing. Maybe some leather trim scratches but I frankly don't care because it could've been from MCU repair and I just didn't notice because I haven't been driving much.
quickstrike12
Member
Been following this thread as best I can for weeks now. I’m dropping my car Friday for the upgrades. Things to check to make sure they are not forgotten. Was it something like this?
1: key fob reflash
2: something else to do with the phones App connection?
3: migrate Home link settings?
forgive me if it’s beaten to death, but I’m trying to make a short list of things to check before I drive away with it afterwards. I’ll also probably take a short video of interior dash area, and then run painters tape over my trim pieces ahead of time as an added bit of insurance.
I’m sure they will do a great job (they have done several in the area) but I want to stack the deck in my favor.
Thanks for any advice
1: key fob reflash
2: something else to do with the phones App connection?
3: migrate Home link settings?
forgive me if it’s beaten to death, but I’m trying to make a short list of things to check before I drive away with it afterwards. I’ll also probably take a short video of interior dash area, and then run painters tape over my trim pieces ahead of time as an added bit of insurance.
I’m sure they will do a great job (they have done several in the area) but I want to stack the deck in my favor.
Thanks for any advice
scottf200
Well-Known Member
This article is for FSD but some overlap I think. HTH.
Model 3 HW3 brain replacement can cause temporary amnesia but Tesla Service can quickly restore your settings, all you need to know before you go | TinkerTry IT @ Home
Akikiki
A'-Lo-HA ! y'all
Yep, it needs media. How is it going to show you the icons if there's no media to write the files to?
If they forced the icons to show, then we'd have people complaining where's the files, when there's no place for them to write/store.
Akikiki
A'-Lo-HA ! y'all
Its not key fob reflash. Its checking that you can unlock/lock doors with the fob and unlocking/locking via the app. This is part of them insuring the security certificates are on the new MCU.
FMinMI
Member
On my MS, WIFI, BT and HomeLink all had to be redone. All other parameters were preserved. Not sure why in the above link his HomeLink worked but as they say YMMV...
My quick review:
The great:
MCU2 has better sound. It is noticeable. Clearer with deeper bass. So while I don't intend to watch Netflix or create music in my car, I do listen to music almost all the time I am in the car and this is a nice benefit I wasn't necessarily factoring in my decision. This factor alone really makes me feel glad I went with the upgrade vs. FSD computer alone.
Maps are lightning quick. This is huge for road trips and unexpected detours. I've been in a couple situations where waiting for nav was a disaster and we ended up using phones or 15 or so minutes for the MCU1 to spit out a route with charging stops. I tested some longer road trips and MCU2 is world's better. Longest I waited was seconds, not minutes.
Car is in pretty great shape for having 2 MCU replacements in 2 months and this time they performed the work in record time (6 days for first attempt, 3 hours this time).
The expected:
MCU2 is indeed faster and more responsive than even my new MCU1 but it also is a little too animated for my tastes. Maybe the v10 UI just stands out more but it seems to move differently and I will get used to it but it seems strange. I can't put my finger on why the animations seem smoother but also cartoonish. It seems like they are running at a higher frame rate or maybe the refresh rate of the screen is different.
I have all the apps and games. I haven't launched any but I really don't like the new app launcher. What was wrong with the T and then toybox?
I got 2020.20.12 about 5 minutes after parking at home and the maps came less than an hour after that (downloaded AND installed). So wifi is definitely faster. I checked out dashcam and sentry. Seems cool. I haven't had a chance to really play around.
I did have to reprogram my homelink but they remembered the gps location but didn't have the ability to operate the opener. This is way different than my MCU1 replacement which was completely messed up and required me to drive to another location and reprogram a new opener remote.
I otherwise retained my information which was expected (no wifi). I had just lost it all a month ago so it was a meager amount of information in my case. I deliberately didn't enter anything into the new MCU1 as @verygreen repeatedly informed us the data is vulnerable. Still, I got my trip data since the MCU1 replacement and lifetime kwh and efficiency is still missing.
Cameras need calibration. I live close to my service center so the drive home was insufficient. This is the first time I've calibrated the cameras in my car. I took delivery before AP2 was even a bad AP1 port, so my cameras calibrated in shadow mode and even NoA required nothing.
The animations and my avatar seem different. I enabled FSD visualizations but I do not think anything will appear until the calibration is completed. I will test it tomorrow.
Meh:
I have the protective film over my IC2. It has a couple bubbles and scratches and horizontal even lines that are visible but otherwise is on there. I can't remove it and my service center isn't responding to texts about it. I also think the IC surround piece sticks farther away from the IC than it used to by about .5". I can almost fit my finger behind the IC surround piece and to the edge of the IC and grab the film (but not quite). I don't recall there being a large gap there before.
The bad:
Backup camera is way darker. Even during the day I could tell. MCU1 backup video had the contrast turned way, way up. There were basically no shadows and black level was crushed. MCU2 has contrast way down and while there is no artifacting and the details are vivid in good light, in darkness everything is a shadow. This hopefully should be addressed as the view out the back is not great. The upcoming side camera view might help but we still haven't confirmed that will come to RCCC cam cars (though I don't see why it wouldn't).
Conclusion: I wish I didn't have to spend $2500 but it seems worthwhile The more immersive sound is definitely the icing on a very tasty cake. I look forward to testing out AP and will post my thoughts after my cameras calibrate (it lists percent of calibration as "0%" for both summon and NoA). When driving, the AP steering wheel had a blue gauge or meter which seemed to be around 5% of a circle, so I hope the calibration completes quickly.
The great:
MCU2 has better sound. It is noticeable. Clearer with deeper bass. So while I don't intend to watch Netflix or create music in my car, I do listen to music almost all the time I am in the car and this is a nice benefit I wasn't necessarily factoring in my decision. This factor alone really makes me feel glad I went with the upgrade vs. FSD computer alone.
Maps are lightning quick. This is huge for road trips and unexpected detours. I've been in a couple situations where waiting for nav was a disaster and we ended up using phones or 15 or so minutes for the MCU1 to spit out a route with charging stops. I tested some longer road trips and MCU2 is world's better. Longest I waited was seconds, not minutes.
Car is in pretty great shape for having 2 MCU replacements in 2 months and this time they performed the work in record time (6 days for first attempt, 3 hours this time).
The expected:
MCU2 is indeed faster and more responsive than even my new MCU1 but it also is a little too animated for my tastes. Maybe the v10 UI just stands out more but it seems to move differently and I will get used to it but it seems strange. I can't put my finger on why the animations seem smoother but also cartoonish. It seems like they are running at a higher frame rate or maybe the refresh rate of the screen is different.
I have all the apps and games. I haven't launched any but I really don't like the new app launcher. What was wrong with the T and then toybox?
I got 2020.20.12 about 5 minutes after parking at home and the maps came less than an hour after that (downloaded AND installed). So wifi is definitely faster. I checked out dashcam and sentry. Seems cool. I haven't had a chance to really play around.
I did have to reprogram my homelink but they remembered the gps location but didn't have the ability to operate the opener. This is way different than my MCU1 replacement which was completely messed up and required me to drive to another location and reprogram a new opener remote.
I otherwise retained my information which was expected (no wifi). I had just lost it all a month ago so it was a meager amount of information in my case. I deliberately didn't enter anything into the new MCU1 as @verygreen repeatedly informed us the data is vulnerable. Still, I got my trip data since the MCU1 replacement and lifetime kwh and efficiency is still missing.
Cameras need calibration. I live close to my service center so the drive home was insufficient. This is the first time I've calibrated the cameras in my car. I took delivery before AP2 was even a bad AP1 port, so my cameras calibrated in shadow mode and even NoA required nothing.
The animations and my avatar seem different. I enabled FSD visualizations but I do not think anything will appear until the calibration is completed. I will test it tomorrow.
Meh:
I have the protective film over my IC2. It has a couple bubbles and scratches and horizontal even lines that are visible but otherwise is on there. I can't remove it and my service center isn't responding to texts about it. I also think the IC surround piece sticks farther away from the IC than it used to by about .5". I can almost fit my finger behind the IC surround piece and to the edge of the IC and grab the film (but not quite). I don't recall there being a large gap there before.
The bad:
Backup camera is way darker. Even during the day I could tell. MCU1 backup video had the contrast turned way, way up. There were basically no shadows and black level was crushed. MCU2 has contrast way down and while there is no artifacting and the details are vivid in good light, in darkness everything is a shadow. This hopefully should be addressed as the view out the back is not great. The upcoming side camera view might help but we still haven't confirmed that will come to RCCC cam cars (though I don't see why it wouldn't).
Conclusion: I wish I didn't have to spend $2500 but it seems worthwhile The more immersive sound is definitely the icing on a very tasty cake. I look forward to testing out AP and will post my thoughts after my cameras calibrate (it lists percent of calibration as "0%" for both summon and NoA). When driving, the AP steering wheel had a blue gauge or meter which seemed to be around 5% of a circle, so I hope the calibration completes quickly.
Mokuzai
Member
Put in a request this morning around 7:30 for the MCU1 -> MCU2 + AP2.0 -> FSD upgrade on my 2017 Model S. Got a text around 2pm that they scheduled me for next Friday the 3rd at the Burbank SC. Seems like a fairly quick turnaround.
