Tesla Model 3 Down: Won't Power Up, and is Inaccessible

[Twiglett]

Yeah, I certainly didn’t take it personally and I appreciate hearing other viewpoints. You’ll note I asked to change the thread title to prevent any confusion.

We’re all early adopters to varying degrees and we just need to learn and respect one another... especially when we’re flooded with 300,000+ muggles over the next year or two. Now that’s gonna be fun.

I'd prefer "mundanes" instead of muggles
I think it sums up the none-EV driving sheeple quite well.

Darn it - I just realized this is just another term-correction post to add to the mix

 

[MarkS22]

I'd prefer "mundanes" instead of muggles
I think it sums up the none-EV driving sheeple quite well.

Darn it - I just realized this is just another term-correction post to add to the mix

Oh no.... here we go again. Maybe we should start a new thread voting on what to call them?

 

[arnis]

As it happened soon after production, I think it's likely a faulty 12V battery that discharged soon after charging session ended.

Anyway, just to be sure. If any Model 3 owner really wants to get into the vehicle immediately without breaking any windows:
Step 1) get a 12V power source. The easiest is another vehicle or just another lead acid battery (7Ah might be enough).
Step 2) get alligator clips (aka jumper cables).
Step 3) get the power source (another vehicle or another 12V lead acid battery, possibly even from your UPS device) close to the frunk.
Step 4) shut off the donor vehicle.
Step 5) Remove tow hook cover.
Step 6) Connect cables accordingly to tow hook terminals, take care not not short circuit the ends.
Step 7) Clamp on negative lead to 12V battery (donor vehicle) and then touch the positive terminal momentarily. The frunk will open.
Step 8) Disconnect leads, open the frunk. Clip off frunk trim to get access to 12V battery terminals.
Step 9) Connect positive red jumper cable to positive terminals of both vehicles.
Step 10) Connect negative black cable to negative terminals of both vehicles. Keep donor vehicle shut off.
Step 11) Access Model 3 with keycard. Disconnect charging cable. Start the vehicle.
Step 12) If vehicle starts, disconnect black leads from vehicles. Then disconnect red lead.
Step 13) Keep vehicle on for an hour. You can drive it but don't expect it to start next time. Close the tow hook cover, no need to clip back frunk trim. Keep in the trunk until problem solved.
Step 14) Report procedure outcome to forum and Tesla.
Step 15) Solve the fault.

Optional advanced Step 8.5) Measure voltage on battery terminals.
If it is anything above 6-8V it's safe to continue. Vehicle will likely wake up immediately
If it is below 2-3V don't expect normal behaviour. Possibly, using another power source will not wake Tesla up, at least not immediately.
If connecting auxiliary battery does not raise the voltage enough, 12V battery charger can be used. If 12V battery is shorted (does not accept charge at all) vehicle can be accessed by disconnecting one lead from dead battery and powering up Model 3 with auxiliary lead acid battery. NB! Do not use battery chargers on a vehicle without 12V battery connected.
If it is above 11.5V, there is likely another problem. Connecting additional power source is safe though likely will not help. In this case, removing one terminal from Model 3 battery for few minutes might save the day.


PS: Smart battery chargers might not work with frunk auxiliary release (Step 7). Any 12V power source will likely do this step, that includes small 12V batteries from scooters, UPS backup systems, 12V bricks for LED lights. Even 3 charged lithium ion 18650 cells will do the trick.

 

[N5329K]

Oh no.... here we go again. Maybe we should start a new thread voting on what to call them?

The temporarily unenlightened?
Robin

 

[navguy12]

I totally agree a lithium 12v would be an improvement but it's totally out of the price range for the "cheapest Tesla ever".

I also believe there is a low temperature issue with a 12 volt lithium battery.

 

[YauKwan]

@MarkS22 they still havent figured out whats wrong yet?

 

[MarkS22]

@MarkS22 they still havent figured out whats wrong yet?

Not yet, but they've only had it for a day and I'm sure they want to make sure it's done right. Being in New Jersey, it's quite possible they're seeing something for the first time.

 

[buttershrimp]

I doubt it... The plug has an indentation... And a lock pin on the socket (in the car) could lock a pin to hold the plug. So, if the car was unresponsive and stuck with the lock on, you are SOL.
I bet the service rangers know how to release the lock pin manually. Perhaps using some special service tech tools.

View attachment 279845

K-man has a great video on how to release the charger pin from inside the trunk!

 

[TEG]

Yeah, someone already posted it here in this thread some pages back, buttershrimp.

Model 3 is slightly different, but does still have a manual charge port release in the trunk area.

If your model 3 goes totally catatonic at a charging station, and you must unplug the cable to tow it, there are a lot of steps to get the charge socket to let go of the plug. I suppose it is a safe bet that the tow truck will have jumper cables... Just need to explain to them how to open the frunk with the jumper cables, then jump the car so you can unlock the trunk, then finally pull the manual release lever.

If the whole problem was because something broke in the 12v wiring, and you couldn't "boot up" the car to unlock it, then you might be back to "slim jim" or "coat hanger" through the window to manually unlock it. That can damage some of the rubber trim, so bit of a last resort there.

 

[buttershrimp]

Not yet, but they've only had it for a day and I'm sure they want to make sure it's done right. Being in New Jersey, it's quite possible they're seeing something for the first time.

Mark, you do own a model 3 right? I'm just making sure you aren't experience a "delivery mirage" like the rest of us.

 

[buttershrimp]

Yeah, someone already posted it here in this thread some pages back, buttershrimp.

Model 3 is slightly different, but does still have a manual charge port release in the trunk area.

If your model 3 goes totally catatonic at a charging station, and you must unplug the cable to tow it, there are a lot of steps to get the charge socket to let go of the plug. I suppose it is a safe bet that the tow truck will have jumper cables... Just need to explain to them how to open the frunk with the jumper cables, then jump the car so you can unlock the trunk, then finally pull the manual release lever.

If the whole problem was because something broke in the 12v wiring, and you couldn't "boot up" the car to unlock it, then you might be back to "slim jim" or "coat hanger" through the window to manually unlock it. That can damage some of the rubber trim, so bit of a last resort there.

Informative indeed. By the way, TEG, I just noticed that you have 18,000,000 posts and that you joined TMC in 2006 B.C. That is some serious dedication my friend. Bravo.

 

[SigNC]

Mark, you do own a model 3 right? I'm just making sure you aren't experience a "delivery mirage" like the rest of us.

View attachment 280044

lol

 

[MarkS22]

Mark, you do own a model 3 right? I'm just making sure you aren't experience a "delivery mirage" like the rest of us.

View attachment 280044

I just went to my garage to make sure it's real... and it's... not... there. It was there this morning. At least, I thought it was... but I have no memory of driving it for days. Everything has been a blur. I see ice. And bricks. Even the title of this thread isn't what I remember typing. Is it Berenstein Bears or Berenstain Bears? What timeline is this? Desmond is my constant.

 

[run-the-joules]

Just need to explain to them how to open the frunk with the jumper cables,

…and be prepared to have the cover replaced. It's super fragile.

 

[MarkS22]

As it happened soon after production, I think it's likely a faulty 12V battery that discharged soon after charging session ended.

Anyway, just to be sure. If any Model 3 owner really wants to get into the vehicle immediately without breaking any windows:
Step 1) get a 12V power source. The easiest is another vehicle or just another lead acid battery (7Ah might be enough).
Even 3 charged lithium ion 18650 cells will do the trick.

I'm gonna experiment with small emergency frunk releases. I have some 18650s here. I'm wondering if I can make a tiny package that can be hidden safely somewhere on the exterior of the car, like behind the license plate bracket.

 

[Twiglett]

I'm gonna experiment with small emergency frunk releases. I have some 18650s here. I'm wondering if I can make a tiny package that can be hidden safely somewhere on the exterior of the car, like behind the license plate bracket.

You easily could store it in the frunk.
oh, wait. . . . .

 

[JRP3]

If you want to get fancy put a small 12v battery in the frunk connected to a remote controlled relay. No need to open the frunk to get 12v to the car.

 

[Big Dog]

By the way, TEG, I just noticed that you have 18,000,000 posts and that you joined TMC in 2006 B.C.

TEG got the special flux capacitor option.

 

[tekdemon]

Step 9) Connect positive red jumper cable to positive terminals of both vehicles.
Step 10) Connect negative black cable to negative terminals of both vehicles. Keep donor vehicle shut off.

Whoa now, this is an extremely unsafe way to jump a vehicle and can lead to a dangerous explosion of the lead acid battery due to hydrogen off-gassing and you really don't want an exploding lead acid battery for very self evident reasons. You should connect the black jumper cable from the negative terminal of the "donor" vehicle to a grounded point of the recipient vehicle, NOT the battery terminal. Only specialized jumper pack batteries that have specific circuitry to prevent sparking (and which don't off-gas hydrogen themselves) should ever be connected negative to negative, when jumping with another car you should NEVER do connect the negative terminals to each other.

Please do not jump cars the wrong way, getting sulfuric acid sprayed all over yourself and your cars is not a great way to solve a dead battery issue. Either jump it using a specialized jumper pack that doesn't lead to these explosions or jump it properly using a ground point and not the battery terminal.

Please see: Can a Car Battery Really Explode?
How to Avoid Battery Explosions (Yes, They Really Happen)
Connecting negative cable to negative terminal could cause spark, boom

Whether it will "work" or not is not the point here, jumping in this fashion will work just fine until the one day you explode sulfuric acid all over your body and end up in an intensive care burn unit fighting for your life. It's not worth it, either use a proper ground point or buy a jumper pack for $40 that has anti-spark circuitry that only turns on the powerflow between the batteries after it's detected a successful connection (so it won't spark). The newer lithium ion jump packs are pretty compact and also double as USB battery banks for phones and tablets and whatnot so if you don't want to deal with finding a proper ground point for your car just buy one of those. Much better to spend $40 on that than risk a battery acid explosion everywhere.

 

[MarkS22]

If you want to get fancy put a small 12v battery in the frunk connected to a remote controlled relay. No need to open the frunk to get 12v to the car.

There could be a market for a "backup 12V" that you mount in the frunk with velcro. A simple control board to keep it charged and monitor the charge from the main 12V battery, a few 18650s, and a solid state relay. Upon detecting a below nominal current from the main battery, it closes the relay and "jumps" it for 30 seconds and turns off. Or, enough time to pop the frunk, open the doors, and maybe even get the car powered up. At the very least, it could be a fun way to void your warranty.