Real Tesla drivers always back into parking spots.
And if they use Automatic Perpendicular Parking, they do it reeeeally slow.
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And if they use Automatic Perpendicular Parking, they do it reeeeally slow.
If the 12V system is powered up via external supply, shouldn't the car be able to switch on the high voltage system and move under its own power?
ℬête Noire
Active Member
A little more edge than that. Unless the plug needs a lot of clearance to come out, from side shots it looks like you still get a little clearance in front of the port even if placed the nose physically touching straight into a vehicle wall.
I think you'd need to keep the external power source connected, unless the problem with the 12V was corrected by the reboot?
No 12V = no alarm.
Use a coat hanger(1), pull front door's handle, put rear seats flat, crawl into the trunk...
(1) Tons of YT videos if you don't know how...
mspohr
Well-Known Member
My daughter had a VW Jetta (about year 2000). The battery died and the locks were electric so wouldn't open. No way to get to the battery to jump it. Tow to the dealer where they did something (I forget) to get access.
Yes, it just needs enough power to close the high-voltage connection. The problem is whether the 12v will retain enough power.
Since there’s no alternator, I’m curious if the 12v system can fail while driving or the 12v is powered off the main battery when it’s on?
Based on what I saw today, it needs very little clearance. You could probably get the circular cover open with little more than an inch or two. The red and black wires are very flexible. It’s also on the right side and you may hit the center front bumper against the wall before it can block the access.
I’ll probably put together some videos demoing this. I do have concerns about the rear doors not having a manual release. With children in car seats, it’s not possible to lower the seat backs and get out the trunk. I’m thinking those glass breaking devices should be standard issue. I’m buying a couple.
Hopefully Tesla has logs that tell them exactly what happened to your car. I was assuming that they wanted to investigate that problem without actually putting a booster battery on it to force it to wake up. At least we know now, it does seem related to the 12v battery being dead. If the booster worked on those terminals then we know that the 12v wiring is OK. It sounds like the issue was with the 12v battery draining without being recharged properly. Like an issues with the DC/DC converter not providing enough recharge current.
IdaX
Member
Was it you who posted that their wife has run out of gas on the highway a few times though? Stuff happens to cars. Kind of worse when it's your fault. We've gotten stuck in our ICE cars a few times over the years when our battery didn't charge and had to call AAA for a jump and in one case a new battery.
Yep! I really can't figure out how she accomplished it, especially more than once (all before we were married)! I hate buying gas, but never let our tank get below 1/4 based on her experiences.
DFibRL8R
Active Member
Ok, I couldn't resist and I pulled the dongle in the trunk and...drumroll...it unlocked the charge cable!! Of course this is only helpful if you can gain entry into the trunk which is hard with no 12V power (but I suppose if you were in the vehicle you could access via the rear seats).
After the cable was disengaged and UMC cord removed, when I plugged back in the "T" indicator light stayed red. I removed the UMC again and after a few seconds the charge door cover closed itself. When I popped it open again it charged just fine.
After the cable was disengaged and UMC cord removed, when I plugged back in the "T" indicator light stayed red. I removed the UMC again and after a few seconds the charge door cover closed itself. When I popped it open again it charged just fine.
I wouldn't call it "hard". There are a number of steps and you have to have a 12v power source available. (So hopefully your USB battery pack/12v booster isn't in the glovebox in the Model 3 when you need it.
)It has a DC-DC converter, instead. As long as the high voltage system is on, I would guess the DC-DC converter would keep the 12V system supplied with power, but I'm not sure.
dhanson865
Well-Known Member
The Model S and Model X have deep cycle batteries. I see no reason why the 3 wouldn't as well. Do you have some reason to assume it doesn't?
I totally agree a lithium 12v would be an improvement but it's totally out of the price range for the "cheapest Tesla ever".
And if you're Chuck Norris, you park the car anyhow you like, then get out and move the parkade around it to suit yourself.
Zhelko Dimic
Careful bull
Few years back, I 'bricked' my Porsche trying to upload new engine map.
I had to pull engine computer and send it for reprogramming.
I find term completely understandable and appropriate. But it could be the background...
@MarkS22
You've done a hell of a job maintaining composure on explaining what "brick" means. The word has regrettably been co-opted by the first 1% of Tesla owners, but I think almost everyone else completely understood your literally-the-definition meaning. I like to add that a brick often requires very specialized (read: proprietary) repairs (i.e., JTAG) to return functionality. You know, like a Tesla
An ICE car can be repaired anywhere; a phone with a dead battery can be repaired anywhere: Tesla's are different because of how many Tesla-proprietary parts are inside a tightly-guarded protocol. The car _was_ a brick. Even bricks are recoverable (an entire cottage industry surrounds fixing "bricked" phones), but you almost always need very specialized/proprietary equipment.
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I'm not sure why almost everyone has settled on the 12V+ battery, as I think it's safe to wait for the Tesla to explain what actually happened. I applaud your efforts OP to wait it out so Tesla has a freshly bricked Model 3 to investigate. They're the professionals and they should be able to read out all the data to figure out what actually went wrong here.
Electrek had reported that July Model 3s required new HV battery packs due to poor welds, while August Model 3s required new ground terminal bolts. I wonder if both of these fixes were successfully performed on yours.
Good luck. If Tesla is brave enough to share what the actual issue was and you feel comfortable sharing, I think it'd be really interesting what the issue was, if nothing else than curiosity.
You've done a hell of a job maintaining composure on explaining what "brick" means. The word has regrettably been co-opted by the first 1% of Tesla owners, but I think almost everyone else completely understood your literally-the-definition meaning. I like to add that a brick often requires very specialized (read: proprietary) repairs (i.e., JTAG) to return functionality. You know, like a Tesla
An ICE car can be repaired anywhere; a phone with a dead battery can be repaired anywhere: Tesla's are different because of how many Tesla-proprietary parts are inside a tightly-guarded protocol. The car _was_ a brick. Even bricks are recoverable (an entire cottage industry surrounds fixing "bricked" phones), but you almost always need very specialized/proprietary equipment.
----
I'm not sure why almost everyone has settled on the 12V+ battery, as I think it's safe to wait for the Tesla to explain what actually happened. I applaud your efforts OP to wait it out so Tesla has a freshly bricked Model 3 to investigate. They're the professionals and they should be able to read out all the data to figure out what actually went wrong here.
Electrek had reported that July Model 3s required new HV battery packs due to poor welds, while August Model 3s required new ground terminal bolts. I wonder if both of these fixes were successfully performed on yours.
Good luck. If Tesla is brave enough to share what the actual issue was and you feel comfortable sharing, I think it'd be really interesting what the issue was, if nothing else than curiosity.
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