That’s a good idea having the board. It doesn’t have a very large base (as many jacks don’t). If your are on soft ground it might dig in.
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That’s a good idea having the board. It doesn’t have a very large base (as many jacks don’t). If your are on soft ground it might dig in.
Also I changed out the 1/2" drive socket, to a lighter weight 3/8" drive, with a 3/8" to 1/2" adapter. Plenty of force, and half the weight.
Another small thing I was concerned about was wheel locking, and/or the need to chock the front wheels when jacking up the back. It seems both back wheels are fully locked when in park. So I can jack up either back wheel without having to fear the car rolling because the other back wheel keeps it's traction and is locked. (But probably good to also chock the front wheels, just in-case.)
Another small thing I was concerned about was wheel locking, and/or the need to chock the front wheels when jacking up the back. It seems both back wheels are fully locked when in park. So I can jack up either back wheel without having to fear the car rolling because the other back wheel keeps it's traction and is locked. (But probably good to also chock the front wheels, just in-case.)
Exactly what I am looking for, thank you!
How did you replace the nub with the rubber material? Did you drill out and replace the rivets holding the plate? If so; 1) Did you have to grind the nub down, cut it off or is there a way to remove it? 2) What fasteners did you use to replace the rivets? Do they need to be high strength? 3) What rubber material did you use?
Thanks.
Exactly what I was looking for, thank you! To remove the nub, did you drill out and replace the rivets holding the plate? What fasteners did you use to replace the rivets, do they need to be high strength? What material did you use for the pad?
I drilled it out then wrenched it off. Pretty easy. I bought these self sticky bumper step no slip things at Walmart in the auto section. And just cut a piece to fit and stuck it on.
I’ve seen one person grind the nub to fit the body lift point hole. And another mounted a lift puck on the jack. I jack up under the suspension instead of the body like I have for the last 3 decades. And it only requires jacking up 2 inches at most and doesn’t require any special lift puck. Just any old standard lift “cup” works.
I think you should try to keep the nub. With the nub, the jack is mounted securely in the jack point hole, and has no possibility of slipping off and putting a hole in our batteries!
I used an angle grinder with a metal blade on it to cut the nub down to size. Held jack in a vice during trimming. It's aluminum so grinds easily. Trimmed both ends of nub a little at a time, then tested and re-trimmed. I happened to have a big washer with a 1" hole to help test how I was doing, so didn't have to test under the car each time. (You might also drill a 1" hole in a board to help you test for size.) For what it's worth: I measured the jack point hole with a caliper as being just a little smaller than 1" diameter.
Ok @Togg I took your advice and saved the nub. Don't have an angle grinder so ultimately resorted to filing it down by hand. Took me about 20 min. I like how it turned out so thanks for pushing me there.
Also added this tool for the lug nuts and jacking ...
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B015DJ8A40/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Also added this tool for the lug nuts and jacking ...
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B015DJ8A40/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Have you already sold the jack or is is still available?Well, I ended up picking up a never used, Porsche 996/986/986S Tire Jack/Crank-Handle in Foam Fit-N-Spare (Part #: 000.721.711.05) just as mswlogo purchased for his setup in this thread. Since purchasing, I've decided to abandon this project as I still don't have my Model 3 Performance, and I'm not sure when I will be getting it.
If anybody is interested, I will sell this one for $100.00 SHIPPED (48 Contiguous United States) via UPS Ground, Insured with Tracking...and I'll cover the PayPal fees. I will also include UPS' "Signature Confirmation Required" service free of charge to ensure it gets into your hands and not some porch pirate's.
If you're interested in picking up locally (Orange County, CA), we can work a better deal to reflect the savings from PayPal, packing materials and shipping.
Either way, shoot me a message to work out the details if you're interested. Cheers to all!
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Daskid
Member
I had bought a Hyundai Genesis spare tire. I had to ream the stud holes out a bit. Works great!
Yes, I am interested. Thanks for asking. I'm brand new to this forum and Teslaworld in general. Is there a way to private message you to further discuss?
xanatos
Member
Did it still fit before you reemed it? Or would it not fit at all?
Some people said even if you don't reem, it will still fit but will be tight. Just trying to get some confirmation.
steve1313
Member
I read every post in this entire thread, and you guys have come up with some great ideas and "solutions" . But how many flat tires are you guys getting??? I think I've had one in the last 15 years!! Yes, when I got my Model X, I worried about not having a spare, especially when I realized foam/slime wouldn't work. But after my initial anxiety went away, I realize that in the unlikely event I do have a flat, help is just a phone call away, either for a tow, a repair, or exchange. Or worst case, an Uber ride to my destination.
I guess it depends on the roads you're driving. I think I've had 4 issues in about 5 years on two vehicles (non EVs). One screw, probably lost out of a contractor's truck, two GNW (god knows what), and one sharp rock too many, and I don't really drive that much.
Murphy’s law applies here. If I’m fully prepared, odds increase I’ll never need it.
Between my wife and I, think we’ve had one incident, on the road, in the last 20 years. And that was on a railroad track with a pothole next to it and she popped the bead on Two tires. I had to just refill them. All other incidents have been a nail here and there but very slow leaks I could fix in my driveway.
P.S. I used my Jack and Plug Kit the other day to help a friend patch a boat trailer. So glad I got to practice on her tires than mine.
The practice was well worth while too. The plugs didn’t go in as expected at all. Took like 3 attempts. I’ve plugged many times with older kits, but this newer style plug requires a different technique. Or so I thought.Left side, Air compressor, middle EVSE with J1772 adaptor, upper left is the 4 Jack Pads in the tube, Top is the porsche 911 Jack, bottoms is the Jack lever, right side in the blue box is the flat tire patch kit.
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