Gotcha. Wasn't seeing it based on The picture of the jack on the website
I think the benefit most people see with the Porsche jack was it was very light.
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Gotcha. Wasn't seeing it based on The picture of the jack on the website
I think the benefit most people see with the Porsche jack was it was very light.
webbah
Active Member
That’s part of it, but mostly because nothing else existed on the market. However, what good is an emergency jack if you don’t have a spare tire? I really like the complete kit I posted. Especially as it will work with the large P3D rotors.
If you don’t mind spending $90 on a POS made in China steel jack that will rust and will bend like butter that’s worth $30
https://www.amazon.com/everbest4u-Scissor-Crank-Portable-Stabilizers/dp/B07NN7BMFH
That lug wrench is $10
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M1JNZP0
webbah
Active Member
I’m going to assume that you are saying these are the exact components in the kit from modern spare. However their kit has a 4T jack. And hey, I’m just trying to help out here. Not going to entertain any responses from trolls though.
Look at the 1 star reviews on any $30 steel jack on Amazon. You’ll see pictures of them twisted like pretzels. They are all junk. I bought two and returned them. I started looking at any OEM jack which are 10x better (but heavy) and stumbled into the Porsche jack.
Many of us carry plug kits. Sometimes it’s not easy to plug a tire while mounted on the car, especially a rear one. Think worst case On the side of highway, at night, when it’s 0F out. It’s sometimes safer and easier to take the wheel off and do it inside the warm protected car. Getting the plug into a frozen tire is not easy either. Easier to inspect and inflate all inside the cabin.
That is not a 4 ton jack. You do know how many pounds are in a ton, right? It’s a 2 ton jack. You can upgrade the one on the link to a 2 ton for a whopping $8. It’s because it’s Chinese junk, rated by some fly by night company in China. Both the Amazon one and the Modern Spare company are junk. They will work but but I like to buy better quality stuff.
One other thing to check on. The jack you mentioned starts at almost 4" that might be tight in some situations.
You need to measure the Model 3 with (Lifting Puck if you choose to use one) and a FLAT Tire. Someone mention it had a built in rubber pad not show in pictures. With 18" Rims you need to subtract about 2" (to account for a flat tire) from bottom of the jack pad to the floor to know the clearance your jack needs. I don't know what that is, but it can be really low on the Model 3. That is also what lead me to the Porsche Jack which starts at just 2.5". That's why I had to return one of my jacks when realized that. Also scissors jacks have their weakest leverage when all they are all the way down. Also I carry a piece of PVC board in case ground is soft, which raise the jack more. So the lower the jack starts, the better.
I helped a friend put his snows on a Model 3 last night. He said he had a low profile floor jack and pads. His floor jack didn't have a chance of fitting under even with no jack pad. I ended up using my Porsche Jack using his Jack Pads on the body. Tedious compared to a floor jack, but worked great. But my friend is not getting help unless he buys a good low profile jack in the spring. I like to jack under the lower control arm which is even lower. I should have measured the clearance but there was only a couple inches and these tires were not flat of course and the jack was only 2.5" to start.
So measure your clearance assuming you have a flat tire, on soft ground with an (optional jack pad) !! I think you'll find it's well below 4".
webbah
Active Member
I’m well aware of clearance issues. I bought this for home use as my car is also lowered 30cm with Coilovers and I enjoy changing the dampening depending on if I’m driving in the alps, city or the track. No need to use jack pads as this jack has a nice round rubber pad and is super low entry:
Extra low entry
Now, about your comment that the Modern Spare doesn’t have a rubber pad please check the photo again. They also make a mention of this in the text:
“
- Durable, low profile 4000lb scissor jack with Tesla-specific rubber contact point designed specifically for your Model 3”
jebinc
Well-Known Member
It has a rubber pad as I purchased one. It's a PoS and used elsewhere now. Got the Porsche jack for the M3.
webbah
Active Member
Tough crowd in this thread. Was just trying to help. Emergency jacks really shouldn’t be used for day to day maintenance. Only for emergencies. Anyway, Webbah out.
Ok, that's the first I've seem that massive beast floor jack, which looks very nice indeed.
But as far a floor jacks go, I personally like floor jacks that are not so damn heavy because I'm just to old to lug them around and have to lift them occasionally in my no so spacious garage. You're beast above is 92 lbs, no thanks. I've had them and put one out on the curb for someone to please take it. I also like ones with a very narrow head. See below, I remove the side handles. This allows you to get under the suspension up near the tire. I find this the best way to jack up most cars for some jobs (my personal preference and many DIY mechanics), you don't have to jack so high and does not twist the unibody which can trigger squeaks on some cars. I'm extra leary on Tesla's with the glass roof structures and Model 3 stress cracks in the glass. I treat all cars the same though.
Tons of companies/resellers put their name on this jack. Some rate it 1.5T some 2T. It's plenty. I've lifted almost my entire 4500Lb boat with it, jack under the center of the trailer on one end and the tongue of trailer supporting the other. If it acts up I get a new one. This is not the cheapest I've seen the jack, seen as low as $60.00.
As far as the Modern Spare tire jack. I stand by that it's a cheap stamped painted Sheetmetal Chinese junk. Dozens of relabeled ones on Amazon. You can even see the stamped stiffener along the arms to strengthen it. There is nothing special about that Modern Spare jack other than it's over priced for what it is. It might have the rubber head though which is not to common and might save some on height by going puck less. Head looks kind of small though in that picture if that's what the rubber head looks like. It's hard to tell.
https://www.amazon.com/BGS-2897-Hydraulic-Trolley-Maximum-Aluminium/dp/B075DCMVZK
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webbah
Active Member
Yeah, that jack looks ok as well, but I don’t particularly like the metal around the rubber pad. It’s those parts that can puncture the battery underneath if not positioned properly or using jack pads. My jack has no need for jack pads at all and with a lowered car it’s perfect for me. It’s definitely a beast and I keep it in my apartment parking space locked to a pole with a bike lock when not in use. Works for me. I use it so often that I did not want to skimp on a good floor jack.Ok, that's the first I've seem that massive beast floor jack, which looks very nice indeed.
But as far a floor jacks go, I personally like floor jacks that are not so damn heavy because I'm just to old to lug them around and have to lift them occasionally in my no so spacious garage. You're beast above is 92 lbs, no thanks. I've had them and put one out on the curb for someone to please take it. I also like ones with a very narrow head. See below, I remove the handles. This allows you to get under the suspension up near the tire. I find this the best way to jack up most cars (my personal preference and many DIY mechanics), you don't have to jack so high and does not twist the unibody which can trigger squeaks on some cars. I'm extra leary on Tesla's with the glass roof structures and Model 3 stress cracks in the glass. I treat all cars the same though.
Tons of companies/resellers put their name on this jack. Some rate it 1.5T some 2T. It's plenty. I've lifted almost my entire 4500Lb boat with it, jack under the center of the trailer on one end and the tongue of trailer supporting the other. If it acts up I get a new one. This is not the cheapest I've seen the jack, seen as low as $60.00.
As far as the Modern Spare tire jack. I stand by that it's a cheap stamped Sheetmetal Chinese junk. Dozens of relabeled ones on Amazon. You can even see the stamped stiffener along the arms to strengthen it. There is nothing special about that Modern Spare jack than it's over priced for what it is. It might have the rubber head though which is not to common and might save some on height by going puck less. Head looks kind of small though is that picture is what the rubber head looks like.
https://www.amazon.com/BGS-2897-Hydraulic-Trolley-Maximum-Aluminium/dp/B075DCMVZK
Ok, that's the first I've seem that massive floor jack, which looks very nice indeed.
I personally like floor jacks that are not so damn heavy because I'm just to old to lug them around and have to lift them occasionally in my no so spacious garage. I also like ones with a very narrow head. See below, I remove the handles. This allows you to get under the suspension up near the tire. I find this the best way to jack up most cars (my Personal preference), you don't have to jack high and does not twist the unibody which can trigger squeaks on some cars. I treat all cars the same. Tons of companies put their name on this jack. Some rate it 1.5T some 2T. It's plenty. I lift almost my entire 4500Lb boat with it, jack under the center on one end and the tongue of trailer supporting the other. If it acts up I get a new one. This is not the cheapest I've seen the jack, seen as low as $60.00.
Correction. I see You're under $100 covered the spare tire cover. The Jack and Wrench are $50.00. So it's a $40 Jack. That price is close to typical.
https://www.amazon.com/BGS-2897-Hydraulic-Trolley-Maximum-Aluminium/dp/B075DCMVZK
jebinc
Well-Known Member
Got an aluminum one just like that, from Harbor Freight. I use it frequently on a variety of tasks.Ok, that's the first I've seem that massive floor jack, which looks very nice indeed.
I personally like floor jacks that are not so damn heavy because I'm just to old to lug them around and have to lift them occasionally in my no so spacious garage. I also like ones with a very narrow head. See below, I remove the handles. This allows you to get under the suspension up near the tire. I find this the best way to jack up most cars (my Personal preference), you don't have to jack high and does not twist the unibody which can trigger squeaks on some cars. I treat all cars the same. Tons of companies put their name on this jack. Some rate it 1.5T some 2T. It's plenty. I lift almost my entire 4500Lb boat with it, jack under the center on one end and the tongue of trailer supporting the other. If it acts up I get a new one. This is not the cheapest I've seen the jack, seen as low as $60.00.
Correction. I see You're under $100 covered the spare tire cover. The Jack and Wrench are $50.00. So it's a $40 Jack. That price is close to typical.
https://www.amazon.com/BGS-2897-Hydraulic-Trolley-Maximum-Aluminium/dp/B075DCMVZK
jkoya
NA2 NSX
I've been looking for a low profile jack and it seems the ones with the lowest entry (like the Arcan with a 2.75" entry) are all close to 100 lbs. I might have to check out the Harbor Freight aluminum ones (although not as low as 2.75"), as I've seen decent reviews on them....
jebinc
Well-Known Member
My aluminum one goes pretty low... Didn't measure it, however. I'd guess 3-3.5 inches minimum height.
Mine goes a hair over 3", measured tonight.
Couple things about these inexpensive Chinese jacks.
I would not pay much attention to 1.5 vs 2 ton, I've seen the same jack labeled both ways. 1.5T is plenty.
You'll see some as dual piston or rapid jack. That's not always a good thing. They pump more fluid per stroke so you have to push harder.
The better rapid pump jacks pump fast, until they hit resistance. They can hit the jack pad in one stroke. Then they switch to another valve/piston and pump normally from there. These are more complex internally and cheap ones can break. But when they work they are great.
Some of them are Aluminum and Steel and some are all or 95% Aluminum. It's not always clearly stated. They both work fine. But the one with Steel and have some parts rust over time. Some are only 26 lbs. The pure Aluminum ones are a bit more money and might be lower rated.
webbah
Active Member
Is your car lowered? The issue I had, and the reason I went with the Bahco (unfortunately doesn’t look to be available in the US), was that I initially had my car lowered 40mm (1.5”). The Geneva Service Center wasn’t too happy with that as their lifts could barely get under the car. I also could clear most speed bumps but there was one at a local car wash that I would bottom out on. That’s no good for me. So I raised the car to a 30mm drop from the factory height (1” drop) and this was perfect. With my Brixton staggered 20” wheels this closed the factory high finger gap for a better look and due to using Coilovers and not lowering springs allowed me to adjust the dampening within minutes based on how or where I wanted to drive.
So then it was time to find a good low entry jack. Using jack pads you lose additional entry space of about 1”. I tested a few and the Bahco was simply superb. Yeah it’s a beast, but as I use it nearly once a week well worth the cost (about $300, but everything in Switzerland is over priced).
Here’s a photo of the car that somewhat shows car clearance on my car. I can measure this with the jack in place if desired.
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jkoya
NA2 NSX
Is the floor jack you have the same one in the link in post #s 172, 174 ? I saw that one on Amazon, but it ships from the UK. I'm planning on making a trip to Harbor Freight, Home Depot and measuring the entry height of their floor jacks. I would use it for both my Model 3 Performance and my NSX (which is lower than the Tesla).
Thanks for everyones feedback on the floor jacks - much appreciated !
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