Weird charge port issue

[diplomat33]

It shouldn't cost you anything, the body shop/insurance should pay for it as part of the repair that they have yet to complete.

I guess I would have to check with the body shop about that. I accepted the repairs when I took possession of the car. And the insurance paid for the repairs, minus my deductible. I don't even know for sure if the problem is related to the body shop repair.

 

[MP3Mike]

I guess I would have to check with the body shop about that. I accepted the repairs when I took possession of the car. And the insurance paid for the repairs, minus my deductible. I don't even know for sure if the problem is related to the body shop repair.

Most body shops offer a lifetime warranty on their work.

Have you ever been able to charge since you picked it up? Have the rear ultrasonic sensors worked?

From what you have said at a minimum they forgot to hook the emergency charge release cable up to the charge port. (Or maybe the charge port they put in is broken.)

 

[diplomat33]

Have you ever been able to charge since you picked it up?

Yes, I was able to charge after picking it up. However, after I finished charging, I had trouble unplugging the charging cable. Eventually, I was able to hold down the button on the charging cable and yank it out. After that, when I got home and was going to charge up again, I noticed the current problem of the notch being stuck up so I can't plug in.

Have the rear ultrasonic sensors worked?

No. They did not work when I picked up the car. That is a separate problem from the charging problem.

From what you have said at a minimum they forgot to hook the emergency charge release cable up to the charge port. (Or maybe the charge port they put in is broken.)

Possibly.

 

[MP3Mike]

Yes, I was able to charge after picking it up. However, after I finished charging, I had trouble unplugging the charging cable. Eventually, I was able to hold down the button on the charging cable and yank it out.

So not even one complete successful charging session. (I considering being able to disconnect part of the charging session.)

 

[diplomat33]

So not even one complete successful charging session. (I considering being able to disconnect part of the charging session.)

Correct.

 

[mongo]

Yes, I was able to charge after picking it up. However, after I finished charging, I had trouble unplugging the charging cable. Eventually, I was able to hold down the button on the charging cable and yank it out. After that, when I got home and was going to charge up again, I noticed the current problem of the notch being stuck up so I can't plug in.

Interesting, is it possible the yanking bent the lock pin? If so, is it possible to bend it back? Realizing that may break it off/ do more damage, but it may already need replaced. It could be it was never fully retracting, but the design may allow for insertion while locked.

 

[AlanSubie4Life]

Yes, I was able to charge after picking it up. However, after I finished charging, I had trouble unplugging the charging cable. Eventually, I was able to hold down the button on the charging cable and yank it out. After that, when I got home and was going to charge up again, I noticed the current problem of the notch being stuck up so I can't plug in.



No. They did not work when I picked up the car. That is a separate problem from the charging problem.



Possibly.

Seems like it should be no problem for the body shop to come get the car and fix it for you. As mentioned they have a warranty on their work and clearly these are issues related to the body work.

Body shops are very bad at doing things like connecting harnesses, putting in clips, reattaching bumpers, etc., at least in my limited experience. It’s quite remarkable. Really does show the value of having an actual process and checklist I guess.

 

[minderbinder]

I had a similar problem with my Model S charge port - it started clicking like that as it repeatedly tried to pull down the locking tab. I was unable to insert the charging cable unless I pulled the manual release. Repair solution: new charging port ($600 parts & labor).

 

[diplomat33]

Seems like it should be no problem for the body shop to come get the car and fix it for you. As mentioned they have a warranty on their work and clearly these are issues related to the body work.

Like I said, I live 80+ miles from the body shop. I was not aware that they can come get my car, unless you are suggesting I call a tow company to pick up my car and take it to the body shop.

 

[AlanSubie4Life]

Like I said, I live 80+ miles from the body shop. I was not aware that they can come get my car, unless you are suggesting I call a tow company to pick up my car and take it to the body shop.

Yes, that seems like what you do. Call the body shop and tell them to come get it. Seems reasonable. No reason you should have to deal with them not plugging in a harness. If the body shop does not want to pay for a tow they’ll realize they should just send someone to try fix it on the spot, first. It’s not difficult to remove the rear bumper.

Good luck. Seems like a hassle. Seems like at this point the objective should be to minimize additional hassle on your part.

(And yes, it is not clear whether or not the charge port will be able to be fixed on the spot. If not, they can bring the car to the shop.)

 

[MP3Mike]

Like I said, I live 80+ miles from the body shop. I was not aware that they can come get my car, unless you are suggesting I call a tow company to pick up my car and take it to the body shop.

Body shops normally have contracts with towing companies so that they don't pay very much at all. You just need to call them and tell them that their repairs are incomplete/faulty and as a result you are unable to drive it back to them so they need to send a flatbed to pick it up. If they are a reputable shop they will be right on it and get a tow setup for you.

No reason you should have to deal with them not plugging in a harness. If the body shop does not want to pay for a tow they’ll realize they should just send someone to try fix it on the spot, first. It’s not difficult to remove the rear bumper.

The rear ultrasonic sensors are likely just a harness. But the charge port is either installed incorrectly or broken. (It can't unlock itself and the emergency unlock cable doesn't even work.)

 

[AlanSubie4Life]

The rear ultrasonic sensors are likely just a harness. But the charge port is either installed incorrectly or broken. (

Agreed. Unclear if it is fixable on the spot.

 

[diplomat33]

I was able to charge my car. I was able to access the manual release. The latch still clicks up and down but now it does it all the way down so I am able to insert and pull out the cable. I can drive the car to the body shop. Except now I have a new problem. The plastic flooring under the frunk is loose and almost rubbing on the ground when I drive. I will definitely take the car back to the body shop so they can fix these issues. I feel like they did good work on the rear body but clearly did some shoddy work elsewhere.

 

[AlanSubie4Life]

The plastic flooring under the frunk is loose and almost rubbing on the ground when I drive. I will definitely take the car back to the body shop so they can fix these issues. I feel like they did good work on the rear body but clearly did some shoddy work elsewhere.

Yeah, no surprise. They have to include all the bolts to ensure this does not happen (and you can lose your entire bumper if you drive that way into a puddle - do not drive in the rain or wet conditions under any circumstances). Even Tesla was not able to do this from the factory in the early days, many may recall! It is an advanced technique. So would be impossible for a body shop. This is not what they do.
Review the threads on this. There are roughly 13 attachment bolts for the rear bumper as I recall (could be wrong, depends on how you count too, but there are at least 9 critical ones I can recall). Also if you look up tow hitch install instructions or videos they’ll have detailed instructions on what bolts there are and you can check for all of them.

On the upside, the lack of bolts will make reattaching the parking sensor harness that much easier. Just be aware that it is easy to damage the paint on the corners of the bumper near the wheel well when removing it; some sharp pieces there.

Consistent with:

Body shops are very bad at doing things like connecting harnesses, putting in clips, reattaching bumpers, etc., at least in my limited experience. It’s quite remarkable.

 

[Resist]

I was able to charge my car. I was able to access the manual release. The latch still clicks up and down but now it does it all the way down so I am able to insert and pull out the cable. I can drive the car to the body shop. Except now I have a new problem. The plastic flooring under the frunk is loose and almost rubbing on the ground when I drive. I will definitely take the car back to the body shop so they can fix these issues. I feel like they did good work on the rear body but clearly did some shoddy work elsewhere.

I have to say it again, don't you just love body shops?! People think if their vehicle every needs repairs from an accident that it will be good as new when it's fixed by a body shop. The reality is the opposite.

 

[AlanSubie4Life]

I will definitely take the car back to the body shop so they can fix these issues

Don’t be tempted to drive it back. Your bumper is literally about to fall off (if you drive in rain). Just takes bad luck.

You can take one of the existing bolts to local big box home improvement store and fit it to their gauges and get a couple replacements. Or, you may be able to move one of the existing bolts to pull up the diffuser (if there are enough of them to do this without compromising attachment elsewhere too much - if it is nearly touching the ground like you said, I think there are more than two or three bolts missing, so it may not be an option). You’ll need washers too (with the new bolts) to emulate the washer-head bolts that occupy these points (IIRC).

I can’t remember if these bolts are the same size as the ones that hold on the underbody aero shields. I think they are larger but not sure.

Also check for dragging damage to the rear diffuser. If there is some, the body shop will need to replace that too. Should be obvious on the leading edge if it is a problem. Hopefully the airflow didn’t pull it down enough to contact the road surface but it depends on speed, etc.

 

[diplomat33]

Don’t be tempted to drive it back. Your bumper is literally about to fall off (if you drive in rain). Just takes bad luck.

You can take one of the existing bolts to local big box home improvement store and fit it to their gauges and get a couple replacements. Or, you may be able to move one of the existing bolts to pull up the diffuser (if there are enough of them to do this without compromising attachment elsewhere too much - if it is nearly touching the ground like you said, I think there are more than two or three bolts missing, so it may not be an option). You’ll need washers too (with the new bolts) to emulate the washer-head bolts that occupy these points (IIRC).

I can’t remember if these bolts are the same size as the ones that hold on the underbody aero shields. I think they are larger but not sure.

Also check for dragging damage to the rear diffuser. If there is some, the body shop will need to replace that too. Should be obvious on the leading edge if it is a problem. Hopefully the airflow didn’t pull it down enough to contact the road surface but it depends on speed, etc.

I got an appointment with Tesla Service Center on Tues. They are going to fix everything plus give me a couple other things for free. Their expected cost if about $540.

I thought it was called the front aeroshield cover. Since I don't know the names, perhaps I am not using the right name. It's a square shaped cover made of thick fabric right between the front wheels. The front bolts are missing so the cover is open and touching the ground. With the right bolts and washer, I should be able to close it again. If I can do that, I should be able to drive to the Tesla service center.

 

[AlanSubie4Life]

thought it was called the front aeroshield cover

Ah I misread your original post. You said under the frunk and I read that as under the trunk since you had had work done on the rear of the vehicle.

Much less of an issue.

I think if it costs $540 technically those other things they give you cannot be called “free” though!

 

[diplomat33]

I think if it costs $540 technically those other things they give you cannot be called “free” though!

Here is the estimate Tesla sent me for the appointment:

replace 12V battery alert - free
update firmware related to seatbelt - free
check tire pressure and condition - free
fix charge port (sticky latch) - $180
fix front aeroshield cover - $167
connect rear ultrasonic sensors - $180

 

[Resist]

OMG Tesla is going to charge you to fix the Charge port issue that your body shop screwed up? And the ultrasonic sensors? Do not pay this! Tesla is overcharging you! And you can reattach the aeroshield cover yourself.