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Whats the largest Power Inverter you can use in a Tesla?

Whats the largest Power Inverter you can use in a Tesla?

  • 200 watts

    Votes: 20 21.5%
  • 400 watts

    Votes: 10 10.8%
  • 500 watts

    Votes: 6 6.5%
  • 1000 watts

    Votes: 14 15.1%
  • 1500 watts+

    Votes: 43 46.2%

  • Total voters
    93
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On our MX, can we use a 300 watt DC to AC power inverter plugged into lighter socket near rear hatch to safely power MacBook air? How about the console lighter sockets? Thank you in advance.
Shouldn't have a problem, since the MacBook Air doesn't use that much power. I have a 150W inverter that I use with a Surface, no problem. It uses a similar amount of power to your Air.
 
If you use the lighter plug, you're limited to 15A (so about 150Watt)
However, if you wire it in to the battery then it depends on a bunch of other factors. Mostly it will depend on how long you plan to draw high currents for. The DC-DC converter is actually amazingly large (@DarkMatter just said it's 2500W, I actually thought it was only 1500W, but either way, it's huge) And yes, the car needs some of that (and nobody really knows how much) But I suspect the car systems aren't likely to use more than a few hundred watts (though it will depend on what's running, things like the rear defroster, and all the seat heaters draw large amounts of current from the 12V system (don't worry about the heat/AC, those are on the high voltage system))

However, that neglects the 12V battery which acts like a buffer, so even if your inverter is drawing more power than the DC-DC converter is supplying, it's ok, as long as it's for relatively short durations.

Personally I installed a 1000 watt inverter in my Tesla. wired directly to the 12v battery through a 100A fuse and using 4AWG wire. The inverter is wired to the relay in the fuse box that controls the 12V outlet so the inverter turns on and off with the car. I installed 2 120v outlets, one in the centre console (opposite the 12V outlet) and it looks factory stock, and the second outlet in the frunk.

I have also heard a rumour that someone installed an even bigger inverter, but one with a high voltage input (inverter designed for a sollar array) Which would be an interesting project, but requires a lot more planning, and would likely take up a fair amount of space in the vehicle.
Can you plug your charger cable in it? LOL!
 
If you use the lighter plug, you're limited to 15A (so about 150Watt)
However, if you wire it in to the battery then it depends on a bunch of other factors. Mostly it will depend on how long you plan to draw high currents for. The DC-DC converter is actually amazingly large (@DarkMatter just said it's 2500W, I actually thought it was only 1500W, but either way, it's huge) And yes, the car needs some of that (and nobody really knows how much) But I suspect the car systems aren't likely to use more than a few hundred watts (though it will depend on what's running, things like the rear defroster, and all the seat heaters draw large amounts of current from the 12V system (don't worry about the heat/AC, those are on the high voltage system))

However, that neglects the 12V battery which acts like a buffer, so even if your inverter is drawing more power than the DC-DC converter is supplying, it's ok, as long as it's for relatively short durations.

Personally I installed a 1000 watt inverter in my Tesla. wired directly to the 12v battery through a 100A fuse and using 4AWG wire. The inverter is wired to the relay in the fuse box that controls the 12V outlet so the inverter turns on and off with the car. I installed 2 120v outlets, one in the centre console (opposite the 12V outlet) and it looks factory stock, and the second outlet in the frunk.

I have also heard a rumour that someone installed an even bigger inverter, but one with a high voltage input (inverter designed for a sollar array) Which would be an interesting project, but requires a lot more planning, and would likely take up a fair amount of space in the vehicle.

Green1, thanks for the information ... can you post a few photos of your installation? :cool:
 
Mine is not a pure sine inverter, it's a 1000w inverter, I can't remember the brand (and would have to take a wheel off to check) It was something I picked up at Canadian Tire (large all-purpose hardware/housewares/automotive supply chain here)
I used 4 AWG wire directly to the 12V battery posts with a 100A fuse on the positive terminal, and replaced the switch on the inverter with a relay that's only live when the car is "on" (fed from the fuse box relay that controls the 12v centre console outlet)

On the downside, the location I mounted it in in the passenger fender isn't quite as weatherproof as I'd like, and it obviously is subject to occasional road spray when the roads are really sloppy out (I get occasional error beeps from that fender, but only in bad weather). I'm going to work on better weatherproofing for it in a few weeks when I'm changing over to my winter wheels and have the wheel off anyway.
 
I have purchased a 2000w (peak 4000w) inverter earlier on without considering the cable size and the car's DC-DC inverter capacity.

While still at the design stage of the setup, I myself have a few factors to consider that I would like to share.

1. The intention is to install the inverter in my 2014 MS's frunk.

2. For a 2000w inverter I will probably need cables and fuse rated 200 Amp or even higher. Such cable would be rather thick and difficult to run. I will probably need to drill two holes on the frunk enclosure in order for the cables to enter.

3. Considering the high current drain and the relatively small capacity of the 12v battery (33Ah), I will have to keep the car power on whole the inverter is in use.

4. My original need was to plug in a high pressure car washer (rated 1500w), since my parking lot is too far to run cable from my house. If the setup can be built successfully, I suppose other purpose can be explored, such as connecting to portable fridge, or powering up a projector for camping.

Please share your concerns or suggestions if any. Cheers.
 
I have purchased a 2000w (peak 4000w) inverter earlier on without considering the cable size and the car's DC-DC inverter capacity.

While still at the design stage of the setup, I myself have a few factors to consider that I would like to share.

1. The intention is to install the inverter in my 2014 MS's frunk.

2. For a 2000w inverter I will probably need cables and fuse rated 200 Amp or even higher. Such cable would be rather thick and difficult to run. I will probably need to drill two holes on the frunk enclosure in order for the cables to enter.

3. Considering the high current drain and the relatively small capacity of the 12v battery (33Ah), I will have to keep the car power on whole the inverter is in use.

4. My original need was to plug in a high pressure car washer (rated 1500w), since my parking lot is too far to run cable from my house. If the setup can be built successfully, I suppose other purpose can be explored, such as connecting to portable fridge, or powering up a projector for camping.

Please share your concerns or suggestions if any. Cheers.

You probably want 2 awg wire, keep the runs short. You'll want a higher amp fuse to allow for surge current when starting large motors. Check what the inverter manual recommends.

I don't know if you need to keep the car on. I believe the car will monitor the battery voltage while it is off and kick on the DC/DC whenever needed. But, it might cycle a lot, adding wear on your contactors. So, keeping it on if you only use it for a short while might be better.

I was thinking of a similar setup for emergency house power, but that would be continuous use, at lower current.
 
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Reactions: Alset4S
I would keep the car on while you are using it at a load. Otherwise you will be cycling the low voltage battery like mad, and may suffer low voltage cutoff on the inverter. Otherwise it should be very similar to a stereo amplifier install.

If you are planning to use this for home backup power, know that it is cause for voiding of your battery warranty.
 
I would keep the car on while you are using it at a load. Otherwise you will be cycling the low voltage battery like mad, and may suffer low voltage cutoff on the inverter. ...........
There is a current sensor monitoring the output of the DC-DC converter which can be viewed by apps such as Scan my Tesla.
Screenshot_20180107-101454p.png

I believe if the car sees continuous draw of certain current say greater than 7A (or if the DC-DC output power exceeds certain level), the DC-DC converter won't turn off even if the car is in sleeping mode. If that is the case, there is no worry about the cycling of the 12V battery.
 
  • Informative
Reactions: FlatSix911
"Warranty Limitations

This New Vehicle Limited Warranty does not cover any vehicle damage or malfunction directly or indirectly caused by, due to or resulting from normal wear or deterioration, abuse, misuse, negligence, accident, improper maintenance, operation, storage or transport, including, but not limited to, any of the following:
(...)
• Using the vehicle as a stationary power source;"
 
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Reactions: Peteybabes
"Warranty Limitations

This New Vehicle Limited Warranty does not cover any vehicle damage or malfunction directly or indirectly caused by, due to or resulting from normal wear or deterioration, abuse, misuse, negligence, accident, improper maintenance, operation, storage or transport, including, but not limited to, any of the following:
(...)
• Using the vehicle as a stationary power source;"

I wonder how does Tesla define 'stationary power source'.

There are many ways that power can be drawn from a Tesla car. Some examples are:
1. Charging your mobile phone using the USB socket.
2. Connecting a USB charger using a cigarette lighter socket to USB adapter.
3. Connecting a power inverter (150W or less) to the cigarette lighter socket.
4. Connecting a inverter to draw power directly from the 12V battery.
5. Drawing power direct from the main battery.
 
You probably want 2 awg wire, keep the runs short. You'll want a higher amp fuse to allow for surge current when starting large motors. Check what the inverter manual recommends.

I don't know if you need to keep the car on. I believe the car will monitor the battery voltage while it is off and kick on the DC/DC whenever needed. But, it might cycle a lot, adding wear on your contactors. So, keeping it on if you only use it for a short while might be better.

I was thinking of a similar setup for emergency house power, but that would be continuous use, at lower current.

Thanks for the tips. I probably enjoy the process of designing and building the setup more than the actual utility of having the system itself.