Why you should skip the powered frunk and grab a Satonic soft close frunk

[MP3Mike]

I just wanted to add my own experience with the Futhope module: Install on my Model Y MIG was very easy and I was really happy with the soft close feature. Sadly after a bit over 90 days (this will become important) if completely failed during a close operation, locking the frunk for good.

How often did you use the frunk in that 90 days?

I have the Satonic V1 (really 1.5?) and so far, it has been great. I've had it installed for about 5 months, and no problems so far. (Though I don't really use it that often.) The car is parked outside and has been driven in plenty of rain, not to mention going through the car wash about 50 times since it was installed.

 

[tarwin]

How often did you use the frunk in that 90 days?

I have the Satonic V1 (really 1.5?) and so far, it has been great. I've had it installed for about 5 months, and no problems so far. (Though I don't really use it that often.) The car is parked outside and has been driven in plenty of rain, not to mention going through the car wash about 50 times since it was installed.

Not often tbh, maybe 30 times.

 

[Royal27]

I really want one of these for the wife, but man.... Maybe someone will make a better one at some point.

 

[bcarp]

These stories make me nervous. I’ve had my Satonic v2 installed for about 4 months without a problem. The frunk is opened at least 6 times a day. It’s been through lots of water in heavy rain storms. It’s been through temperatures of up to 45°C. The coldest it’s been in is 3°C. Next week we head to -8°C weather. Let’s see what happens.

 

[NJturtlePower]

I really want one of these for the wife, but man.... Maybe someone will make a better one at some point.

Same boat here.... was fully set on doing the full powered frunk originally, then was looking hard at the soft close, now I think neither will be worth the money, time or effort.

Had my X for about 7-months now and I would say I use the frunk about 1-3 times a month so far... for that frequency manual open/close with no worries sounds like the best option.

 

[ptronus31]

So, after reading all this and having an Aliexpress single-piece unit (not the mechanism with a remote, cable-connected motor) in my garage waiting for install, I am thinking of returning it before I even try it. So, I have two questions for the group:

1. Is there a known emergency cable or other contraption that, upon failure of the closing mechanism, I can for sure get into the frunk within a minute or two (not worried about security issues with such device)?

2. Is there a way to make the (Model X) frunk easier to latch manually? I can do it, but my wife cannot, even with lots of training .

 

[pontelaspilas]

So, after reading all this and having an Aliexpress single-piece unit (not the mechanism with a remote, cable-connected motor) in my garage waiting for install, I am thinking of returning it before I even try it. So, I have two questions for the group:

1. Is there a known emergency cable or other contraption that, upon failure of the closing mechanism, I can for sure get into the frunk within a minute or two (not worried about security issues with such device)?

2. Is there a way to make the (Model X) frunk easier to latch manually? I can do it, but my wife cannot, even with lots of training .

theres a youtube video, if it malfunctions, you'll still be able to overpower and open manually.

 

[tarwin]

AliExpress refunded! And I didn't need to send the unit back so here it is.
And as @Midnightsun stated so confidently, there is corrosion greeting me right away. One of the MOSFETS driving the motor is sitting on the lowest point of the case. They went through some effort to try and keep water out, but is seems they failed.

 

[tarwin]

theres a youtube video, if it malfunctions, you'll still be able to overpower and open manually.

I guess that really depends on the mechanism used. If its build like this Futhope one you can forget to overpower it, you will deform your hood first. A worm drive can't be actuated from the toothed gear.

 

[Midnightsun]

They should have used conformal coating on the board as in marine applications and pay very close attention to sealing the unit. I would have run some silicone around the casing split and smeared it down. All it takes is a couple of drops of water which may even come from condensation to screw up a board. Adding a conformal coating would have cost them around 10 cents, its just a spray on varnish after all.

 

[audiohs]

Thanks for the pics @tarwin . Can you tell if it was water that got into the unit? Do you think if the unit was sealed better that it could have prevented it?

They should have used conformal coating on the board as in marine applications and pay very close attention to sealing the unit. I would have run some silicone around the casing split and smeared it down. All it takes is a couple of drops of water which may even come from condensation to screw up a board. Adding a conformal coating would have cost them around 10 cents, its just a spray on varnish after all

So do you think one can get some conformal coating spray and apply it to the board? And then add some silicone to the casing split as you suggested? Still worth the risk? I've got a unit but have been holding off installing it. I would really like to have this functionality with the frunk.

 

[stopcrazypp]

I guess that really depends on the mechanism used. If its build like this Futhope one you can forget to overpower it, you will deform your hood first. A worm drive can't be actuated from the toothed gear.

View attachment 1060089

I think the only release mechanism that would work is perhaps an independent release mechanism that fully detaches the part that grips the latch hoop (and one that doesn't itself seize up or corrodes).

 

[tarwin]

Thanks for the pics @tarwin . Can you tell if it was water that got into the unit? Do you think if the unit was sealed better that it could have prevented it?

So do you think one can get some conformal coating spray and apply it to the board? And then add some silicone to the casing split as you suggested? Still worth the risk? I've got a unit but have been holding off installing it. I would really like to have this functionality with the frunk.

I guess some tiny amounts of water ingressed trough the pull cable. A single drop would be enough to short out the PCB at its lowest point.

I was thinking about repairing the board - the only thing broken is that MosFET - and then coating everything. But I don't really trust this design, the motor shows sign of water ingress as well, and you can't coat a moving part. If I install another one it would have a detached motor on a cable that can be reached - and cut - from below without 6h of work. Or something with a direct gearing or even direct drive with a stepper that can be actuated manually if the electronics fail.

Some Youtuber should buy all available designs and do a review and teardown. ^_^

 

[stopcrazypp]

I guess some tiny amounts of water ingressed trough the pull cable. A single drop would be enough to short out the PCB at its lowest point.

I was thinking about repairing the board - the only thing broken is that MosFET - and then coating everything. But I don't really trust this design, the motor shows sign of water ingress as well, and you can't coat a moving part. If I install another one it would have a detached motor on a cable that can be reached - and cut - from below without 6h of work. Or something with a direct gearing or even direct drive with a stepper that can be actuated manually if the electronics fail.

Some Youtuber should buy all available designs and do a review and teardown. ^_^

Although the area does look burnt, it's also possible that if you clean the area it'll start working again, as the MOSFET itself looks like it might still be intact (it'll be more clear after cleaning) and it's possible whatever crud is there is shorting things out.

Looking it up, I remember mentioning other bandaid weatherproof ideas (for older control units without weather sealing), for example having holes at the lowest point to allow any water to drain out (also about how to orient cables to avoid water following cables into openings).
Why you should skip the powered frunk and grab a Satonic soft close frunk

 

[Midnightsun]

Thanks for the pics @tarwin . Can you tell if it was water that got into the unit? Do you think if the unit was sealed better that it could have prevented it?

So do you think one can get some conformal coating spray and apply it to the board? And then add some silicone to the casing split as you suggested? Still worth the risk? I've got a unit but have been holding off installing it. I would really like to have this functionality with the frunk.

I believe that is a great idea plus smear some silione around the mating section of the casing to help improve on their seal. You may also want to inject some grease into the boot where the cable enters to help seal the opening to keep that boot facing downward to prevent water ingress.

 

[audiohs]

I believe that is a great idea plus smear some silione around the mating section of the casing to help improve on their seal. You may also want to inject some grease into the boot where the cable enters to help seal the opening to keep that boot facing downward to prevent water ingress.

I'm learning lots from all of these recent posts so thank you to all. I bought a Futhope unit and Satonic v1 way back in January so both are the earlier versions. I was going to use the Futhope for its simpler one piece design but I will look into ways of sealing it better before installing it (if I even choose to do so). I've never worked with conformal spray or even knew what it was (or a MOSFET for that matter). lol

 

[bcarp]

And as @Midnightsun stated so confidently, there is corrosion greeting me right away. One of the MOSFETS driving the motor is sitting on the lowest point of the case. They went through some effort to try and keep water out, but is seems they failed.

That looks like the sort of failure an emergency release cable would take care of. Did your unit come with one which failed to work, or is there no emergency release cable?