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Why you should skip the powered frunk and grab a Satonic soft close frunk

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I'd put the motor somewhere that you can reach from the fender with just liner off. When it gets stuck that's your only access point. (Learned this from our power frunk experience, fortunately ours was reachable that way...)
Since the module doesn’t really do the latching and the latch is still the Tesla latch, what did you have to do with the module when you had that issue?
 
Does anyone have a link for the Model S Satonic soft close? I could only find other models on Satonic website.
This? Title says 3/Y but there’s Model S options. If you order, use TIT20 for 31% off

 
Ah, gotcha. That’s not a bad mounting suggestion as a fail safe.

Yeah, my experience was with the Hansshow power frunk soft close motor getting stuck and its emergency release cable not releasing it. Hopefully the motor in this kit is more reliable, but if it does fail then the fender access is your only option to do something about it, assuming you've installed it somewhere that you can get to from there. :)
 
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I'm just here to say we have put several hundred thousand miles on four Tesla 3's and Y's over the years and never damaged a frunk when closing it.

Also, I loved the $25 Evannex Model 3 auto-open frunk struts. Wish something simple, cheap, and mechanical like that was available for Model Y, but the frunk mechanism is different and doesn't utilize struts.
 
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Bumping this.

Those of you who installed the Satonic V2, would you recommend it? The feature seems useful. But living in an area with four seasons and road salt, failure isn't an option.

FWIW, an AE seller shows an attempt at weatherproofing the cable on a Satonic style by glopping grease onto the exposed cable end. Someone is at least making an attempt to address the issues.
 
I wonder if one of the issues with the 2-piece designs (remote motor with long cable) is that the motor pulls the cable with a worm gear (or other non-freewheeling gear design). If this is the case and the worm gear corrodes or somehow fails, it would lock the cable from moving. Cutting the cable would free the cable since the failure is in the gears at the motor.

The 1-piece designs seem to have a direct-drive spool on the end of the motor, so no gears to jam. I guess if the motor itself failed because of corrosion and could not spin, that would also lock up the cable, but this seems less likely?

Thoughts from those with experience?
 
I had bought one of these kits for my Model X, but it appears to be the same one as my Model 3 (2020) per the box. I got it to work with the X, but I had my share of issues with them and in typical Chinese fashion it was no help. I ordered one for the Model 3 and they never shipped it.