Alternatively, I'm going to try to find something to stuff under the factory seal to push it out and against the window.
^are you putting the B type stripping only along the B pillar or all along the entire door seal?
Keep in mind that there's more than one way to adjust the windows. Yes, you have the screws at the bottom of the rail for in/out, but make sure your window is aligned correctly in the frame of the door. There's left/right & up/down adjustments that can be done to the rail in addition to the tilt in/out that you are already trying. All the adjustments have to be right to get a good seal. If you adjust the window rails correctly, you won't need to mess around trying to jerry rig the seal. This is, of course, expecting that you have the door aligned properly in the frame, which is adjusted with the 2 hinges and the door striker.
I finally got around to adjust the window using destructure00's awesome video instructions (thanks!).
I went into this thinking I had to tilt the window inwards, but I quickly realized it was the opposite. Two full turns clockwise made the door unclosable. Looking at the angle between the window and seal (towards the back of the window) it was obvious that there was a larger gap at the top than the bottom. I vaguely remember a Tesla service technician telling me that he tried adjusting the window inwards back when I tried to have Tesla fix these issues -- probably a remnant from back then!
Anyway, realizing that I had to adjust the window outwards I turned the back/left adjuster 8 turns counterclockwise and the front/right one 7 turns counterclockwise. I also removed the B-type seals to have a fresh baseline. With these changes the door became not only much easier to close but the window sealed better as well, both on the inner and outer seals. I adjusted the door striker a tiny bit inwards to make the window close tighter without changing the angle. To finish off I inserted a few small pieces of D-type seals behind the outer seal as I had done previously, but this time it was only in the bottom and top of the frame it was needed. The result: an easily closable door with a perfect seal against the window.
With regards to the other noise I FINALLY identified the culprit that I previously thought was the top of the window/seals or the black plastic piece/triangle next to the side mirror. I taped up all crevices, holes and gaps that I could find along the entire window, but to my surprise it made NO DIFFERENCE in the wind noise from the area:
View attachment 532682
I was about to give up (again), and started taking the tape off when I noticed a tiny gap on the outside between the window and the rubber seal attached to the triangle piece (it seems larger on the image than it was in reality):
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I've seen it several times before without giving it thought because I couldn't imagine how it could cause any noise, being in the opposite direction of wind etc. I spent several hours fiddling with the piece, first trying to mold it inwards using a heat gun which I read others had success with. It didn't work, so I tried to insert different size and forms of seals, also without luck. Due to the miniscule size of the gap only stuff of less than 1mm would fit. In the end I found that cutting up a b-type seal such that the only thing left is the rubber with the adhesive on one side proved to be a good fit. I didn't get a good picture of the final result, but this shows how I started the cut, and afterwards I trimmed the bumps down and cut it in half width:
View attachment 532687
This leaves a 1mm thick piece with adhesive on one side and rubber on the other, perfect for inserting on the inside of triangle rubber piece. Before:
View attachment 532691
After (notice the extra piece of rubber on the inside):
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I also added a b-type seal on top of the rubber/triangle piece to seal against the underside of the seal on the trim, as I realized there was a potential issue here since there's no window to seal against the trim:
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With the door closed this fills the rather large gap between the door triangle piece and the trim. I couldn't add the seal the entire way due to the gap being too narrow at the top, but it's obvious where it fills the gap:
View attachment 532698
With these changes I am happy to report that all wind noise is gone, both from the back of the window (due to the window tilt adjustments) and the front (due to fixes to the rubber/triangle piece). I had to drive the car several times to believe how silent it has become. It's been very windy here today which usually causes a lot of hiss/wind noise, but today there was nothing, even on the highway at 90mph. All I can hear now is tolerable wind noise from the windshield. Heureka.