Climate Control screen sometimes doesn't show lower part of the screen with temperature controls, dog mode, etc. And other times it doesn't show icons for heated seats. Anybody else are having these issues?
It started to happen in 4.31.5 and keeps happening in 4.31.6.

So this afternoon I was looking at my solar performance (So happy with the TeslaPowerwall and solar setup!)
In the morning I was thinking that today would be a great day to monitor production since the forecast was for absolutely cloudless skies and mild temperatures. Getting closer to the sun's peak angle in the sky as well...

I opened the app and saw a fairly large, seemingly anomalous dip in production in the morning and was immediately frustrated as to the why. I asked Julie who had been out on the deck in the morning if there had been any cloudcover whatso ever and she confirmed that no, absolutely clear skies.

I walked over to the Powerwall, wondering if the inverter had momentarily cut out, or if there was some overload or wiring situation that I would have to maddeningly track down. I played over scenarios in my head of being on the phone with Tesla to explain the occurrence and what my responses might be when they told me it was somehow something I had done...

I mean, what could possible cause such a sharp downward spike in production, with a subsequent apparently normal return to operation on a bright, clear day except a component fault, wiring problem, a rogue passing cloud, or an...

Eclipse

Julie's probably been wondering why I've been slapping my forehead and sighing to myself all afternoon LoL!

In my defense, here in Northern California we only had about a 20%-25% partial eclipse and it wasn't really noticeable at all as far as brightness change... and I was buried in work and not paying attention Solar nerds, watch out for them eclipses! LoL!

New YorkCNN —
Tesla has settled a high-profile case that was set to put the electric car company and its controversial automated-driving system on trial starting Monday.



Terms of the settlement were not disclosed. Jury selection was set to begin Monday in a wrongful death suit filed by the family of a former Apple engineer who died after his Tesla Model X crashed while the Autopilot feature was engaged. The trial could have lasted several weeks, but the parties settled Monday.

Walter Huang was killed when his Tesla struck a concrete highway median in Silicon Valley on March 23, 2018. The National Transportation Safety Board, in its investigation, found that Autopilot was engaged for nearly 19 minutes before the fatal crash, when the car, traveling at 71 mph, veered off the highway.

Story here: https://www.cnn.com/2024/04/08/tech/tesla-trial-wrongful-death-walter-huang/index.html

We have Y and 3. Received trial for Y but not 3. 3 is a 2020 so should be eligible.

Hi folks, I set my 2019 Model 3 Performance to charge last night and set the limit to 83% (I do this, as I use 3% getting to work the next morning, which then leaves the car at 80% for the day). However, the charge is also controlled by my electricity provider to get the car to charge at the best times for the grid, and I can only set the limit in 5% increments on that app, so I set it to 85%.

The car then stops the charge at 83% and the electricity provider stop is just used as a back up. My car was at 82% when I got in this morning and always varies by a few percent, usually depending on temperature.

Anyway, this morning (for the first time) I get in the car to find a message in the middle of the screen saying something along the lines of "Single charge limit not reached, we suggest setting the limit to 71% for daily driving." Below which there was a button to ignore that and another to set the charge limit to 71%.

Has anyone else ever seen this?

I thought the general rule of thumb was to keep it below 80% as much as possible and only charge above that for longer trips. Now they seem to be suggesting keeping it below the very arbitrary number of 71%...

Why 71%?!

I also wonder if I'm the only one seeing this, or if others are also having the same 71% suggested to them by their cars. And if anyone has any idea why? Like, has Tesla looked into the battery statistics of Tesla cars and decided that charging to 71% is optimal for battery life?

Does anyone know if adding a spoiler to my model 3 will reduce my range? I really like the look of a carbon fiber lip but range is important for me. My round trip commute everyday is 124 miles so every mile counts

Thanks in advance, hope someone’s already done this with their highland model 3!

I was waiting for the Model Y refresh, but once found out it wasn't coming anytime soon, I jumped on a 24' MYLR a few weeks ago. Since my goal was to get the most comfortable setup, I went with 19" wheels.

So first of all, I should specify that this is a 2-year lease. My priority is road comfort and minimum NVH.

I had the ear pressure issue with the rear hatch but finally got it under control: Post

Now, the last piece of the puzzle, is the ride. After two long trips, I cannot help but wonder how much happier I would be with a better ride - maybe with a suspension upgrade. I was contemplating, if I don't go overboard and just focus on the ride, I can install them myself and take them off before the lease return and sell them second-hand.

Currently, I got my eyes on the Koni Red FSD: Link
If the above price is right, $600ish is not that bad for a much-improved ride. I love the rest of the car, so it would make it worth it. I have test driven a Model 3 Highland and loved how it rode. If anything, it was too smooth for that car. I am also not worried about the ride height. I am trying to get the smoothest ride possible on a long drive.

I come from Audi/BMW background and have installed coilovers a few times by myself before. I take it that I would be able to install this myself? Would I need an alignment after this? even though this is just a shock install?

I would love to know your thoughts on this. Thanks in advance.

I’m guessing that Tesla will offer some deals on FSD at the end of the trial. I have been impressed by v12 so far, but I still wouldn’t pay $12k for a system that requires supervision. $199 a month is a little pricey as well. I’m guessing they would have a hit at $99/month. What do y’all think?

I've seen a Model X for sale with the horrible yellow banding on the main MCU screen. It's out of base warranty. Does anyone know what it costs to fix the problem permanently?

Hi All - current P100D X owner here and about to pull the trigger on a Model S Plaid.

Demo Model S Plaid are showing about a ~$4K discount via the Tesla website, pending availability & what seems to be a softening EV market in general, but the Tesla website does not list the model year of said demo cars. I assume they are CY23 cars that are left over in the demo pool. Good news, many of them have less than 100 miles on them so the $4K discount is worthy in terms of savings & consideration.

What I cannot find: is the true spec vs spec difference of what a CY24 gets me if I order it directly from Tesla vs a CY23 model. Anyone have a firm comparison between the two model years? Not interested in 2022's or earlier. Are the 4680's being shipped with CY24 Model S Plaids yet?

I recently bought a 2015 Tesla s p90dl. Drove it for about an hour then got turtle mode after stopped turning on. Went to get it checked at Tesla and they quoted me around 8k usd for the ldu and battery heater. I looked up videos be such to try to figure out if I can fix it myself and saw many about the seals being changed. My question is would it still be salvageable if I changed the seals or should I just save up enough money to try to get the ldu. I checked the speed sensor it had mainly debris hmm kind of like when coolant and oil mix you get a bit of a milky substance with dirt onto it.

I have had my Model Y for about 6 weeks and got 12.3 2 weeks ago. So far I am impressed with the improvements except for 2 things.

One is new, the acceleration is pretty aggressive even in chill mode. I have insurance that requires an app be loaded on my phone to monitor driving. One of these measurements is acceleration. Everytime FSD leaves a stop I get a hard acceleration demerit from the app. I just don't see where to reduce it.

The other is a number of roads in my area where the speed limit that is displayed is well below the actual. Does this ever get updated or do I have to continue manually setting the cruise to a higher setting.

Is buying a 2013 Tesla S Performance with 225,000 miles worth buying at $11,000 and the possible issues? (Looking for a cheap "beater" car and I found this Tesla).

It was my fault really. I didn't close the door firmly and had push notifications turned off. Don't know why.

Anyway, when I came back those are the two most expensive things that were taken.

Should i bite the bullet and fork out £250 for another mobile charger? I've begun charging at home (no driveway though so I use a cable cover across the pavement).

Have there been third party ones released?

I bought the 2023 model 3 in California last July after the agents told me the new version is not going to be out for years.
Since the beginning I noticed a vibration clicking ticking noise coming from the driver door area. I took the car to repair 8 times which didn’t solve anything, submitted two repurchase requests which were rejected, and three arbitration cases which were also rejected.

The last arbitration case really looked like a sort of scam orchestrated with Tesla. All of the conditions to accept my claim were satisfied (including that it’s covered by warranty) except of showing reduced use/value/safety, all of which I argued with concrete proofs which they ignored. I think this whole arbitration is just an illusion used to give the facade of customer protection because after a lot of research on my part to build a bullet proof case, they just reject without any explanation for why the specific condition isn’t met although I provided concrete evidence.

Is there anything which I’m missing here? Any way to get them to take that defective noisy terrible quality car? Or is it just the way it was, some cheap plastic covering an expensive battery like others mentioned, and a fake facade of a high end customer service and consumer protection rules?
Thanks

Hi, i recently got a load of error codes following some mentioning the front drive unit and so forth. However, these codes just seem like a communication issue. Anyone else having/had these
Problems?
Car struggles to go into any gear and glitches while doing so.
Flickers between D and N, then when in reverse, camera flicks aswell.
Might add that the right Ground point. (Right While sitting in the car) When taken off sparks at times.

I'm thinking of being away from my 2024 Model S LR from ~June 7th until~ August 27th. Of which the car will be left in a secure storage where no one walks around, and there's little to no cell reception also. Its a pretty hot weather climate (Taipei), but it'll be underground (mechanical parking stall deep underground). Would I come back to a dead car after such a long time? Sentry mode off, Cabin overheat protection off, no 3rd party accessories plugged in, etc, of course.

And if so, what is the optimal battery level to leave the car in? 100%? or less? Thanks!

Hello TMC Friends,

Looks like I'll be returning to the Tesla ownership after a break of 3 odd years. Made an impulse buy today on a "Unicorn" 2016.5 P100D - Please go ahead and roast me and tell me how stupid it was to buy an 8 year old car with no battery or motor warranty. OR, encourage me and tell me that I'll be OK?

At the very least, please help me get some answers:

Car specs:

- 2016.5 Multi Coat Red Model S P100D
- 1 owner - trade in to a dealership from a doctor
- 17,333 miles
- Price: ~$41K
- Full Self Driving: Included Package
- Free Unlimited Premium Connectivity
- Free Unlimited Supercharging
- I bought it out of town, so could not take to Tesla, but, the charging screen shows $0.00 and even the old EV-CPO code look up shows SC01. The car has 1 owner. So never traded into Tesla.
- MCU2 upgrade (Intel Atom processor)
- Cold Weather Package
- Ventilated Tan Seats

How bad or good did I do?



Now for some additional questions:

1. Other than some Tesla service center confirming SC01, and not being able to go to the Supercharging station, do you guys have any ideas on how I can confirm this? Does anyone have any Tesla Rangers contacts that can look up the codes for me? Would you please DM me?

2. Similar question about FSD not being stripped of the car after the ownership transfers?

3. Speaking of FSD it's possible that the car has HW2.5. Is HW3 still a complimentary upgrade from Tesla if I have FSD? And will they upgrade without any warranty?

4. This is a dealer. I don't think they have registered the car in their Tesla app, can someone share the careful/safest method to get the car transferred to me without losing any features the car has?


Thank you for all your time and help. The plan was to buy a Plaid in about 1.5 years or so for around $50K, but this seemed like a good deal. How badly did I mess up? I figured since the car is still pumping around 298 miles at 100% charge, I could keep the car for a while and see what Tesla promos would be in the future having FSD and FUSC and even Premium Connectivity on the car...

Note: The car is not in the same town as me.

I thought I’d say HI as a new member. I’m a life long car nut, not actually a ‘save the world’ with EVs guy lol. But I am genuinely excited to learn so much about my 2024 Tesla Model S Plaid from you all. Feel free to point me to informative posts you feel I should read to learn more about the S plaid. Its my first EV, but I still have my horrendous gas guzzlers. I bought this car last week because the stats of the Tesla Plaid S are undeniable. I look to make meaningful contributions to this forum, but only after I get educated by it.

So HI to all and here are my current cars, you can see them all eyeballing the Tesla lol

Just going to share my experience of having to contact roadside assistance on 06/04/2024 ~4pm for a Model 3 RWD 2022, odometer ~21k.

I was on autopilot on an A road at 60mph when suddenly autopilot disengaged and the screen spewed a load of messages about pulling over safely, having no drive and needing to service the car.

I managed to coast through a roundabout onto a small road and put the vehicle into park. I then opened up the service menu and saw an error in the HV section, showing the Pyrofuse had blown and needed to be replaced. The car stopped at 3:30pm and in about 15minutes, the LV battery was down to 0 charge and the entire car was dead.

On the app, I requested roadside assistance but also ended up calling roadside direct. The rep was quick to acknowledge the issue and immediately called for a tow to recover the vehicle to the nearest service centre (Nottingham). The rep also emailed me a link to £70 Uber credit so I could get a passenger home and also booked me a rental vehicle with Enterprise.

The tow vehicle arrived at about 6:15pm and loaded up the car onto the bed.

Enterprise called me at about the same time to let me know a rental was available to pick up at East Midlands Airport, so I made my way there and was given a brand new 24 plate Mercedes CLA 180 at around 7:30pm.

All in all a good experience with roadside assistance, being able to sort the recovery, Uber credits and rental car in 4 hours. I had to make a lot of phone calls to make sure I was on top of things but the Tesla roadside rep was on point with answering every question I had.

My number one tip if anybody else has a drive issue and knows the battery will be dead: Keep the doors open so you're not locked in/out of the vehicle when the LV battery dies. The only issue is if the LV battery dies when the door is opened, the window won't close again.

Now I await to see what servicing the car needs and will provide an update when it comes..

Anyone else tried to open charge port door or stop charging/unlock charger while pressing button in SC plug on V4 chargers?

I tried Luton (2 different stalls) but it did not work with my M3 :/

It works just fine with V3 SCs

Ik ben in 2020 met M3 LR 2019 op vakantie naar Italië geweest en toen vooraf route en laadplan gemaakt. Dit jaar opnieuw naar Italië met M3 LR 2019, met de nieuwe software updates, maken jullie gebruik van ABRP om de rit met laadstops vooruit te plannen of geven jullie eind bestemming op in de navigatie in de auto en dan gewoon rijden en vertrouwen op laadplan van de auto. Vind dat % bij aankomst SuC vaak wat laag is, wat nu als je onverwacht moet omrijden of file, etc.

Ben benieuwd hoe jullie het doen.

Alvast bedankt voor reacties.

Ok, this is a strange one.

Last year we had an emergency at home where main fuse had to be removed ( by DNO electrician). Once issue was rectified - they came in and installed a new one.

All was good until today I checked something and realized that instead of 100A main fuse 80A was installed.

So total capacity is reduced by 20%...
So in theory now I could max it out with 19 kw load rather than 24 kw

Has anyone faced such situation and hiw much of chance I have to persuade my DNo to revert change?

I do have picture of BEFORE when fuse was 100A.

It is 2014 built property and while I might not need full 24 kw load now, with car + solar batteries charging up I am already at 10-11 kw and with any additional load (kettle + oven + iron) I might be exceeding 19 kw...

And I was thinking about getting induction hob...

Any ideas what should I do?

P.s. already sent email to DNO with "guys, wtf!?" Type of email but since it is weekend I have 48 hrs to wait (the least)

(LINK TO ARTICLE)

Can't say I disagree with most of the reasons. Tesla's broken promises, as a 10 year+ customer of theirs, you learn that's just Tesla. But, I can see where it would be annoying for those not used to Tesla's broken promises. A friend of mine has a new M3 on order and they can't give him an answer when his car will arrive. Was supposed to be 3 months ago. I understand his frustration.

I still technically own my Model S, but no longer my daily driver. After 9+ years, I finally got Tesla'd out. I'm one that likes something new every few years. Despite this, I kept buying new Tesla's, but was effectively looking at the same car for 9+ years. For so long, there were no reasonably competitive options. Now there are. I love my alternatives and really, aside from the charging network, don't miss driving a Tesla. Now that Tesla is opening up the superchargers, they're going to lose that advantage too.

I never loved the look of the Tesla. Always just accepted it because of how amazing the tech and overall car was.

I stayed on board until they implemented the cheaper Model 3 design elements into the far more expensive Model S. For my driving tastes, needs and preferences, the yoke was the first deal breaker. They fixed that. The other was no stalks. The other was turning the screen sideways to focus more on playing movies than to be functional for the driver.

I also tired of their attitude. Mainly, when it comes to service. Such a pain to get a simple question answered. Scheduling three months out to get your $100,000 car fixed is just unacceptable. Their "don't like it? TOUGH!" attitude doesn't work for me. After Tesla, I hate buying cars from dealers. I wouldn't change that. But, dealerships are a benefit when it comes to service. Maybe they need to consider branching out at let others assist in Service. Taking it all on on their own is overtaxing the company. They need help.

Still amazing cars, but in my area, they are a dime a dozen car. Nothing special anymore. I want something unique and cool for $100,000. The car is still great, but can't stand the spartan interiors. I know some love them, but I prefer driver simplicity over minimalist design. With no stalks, no buttons, no nothing but a screen, it is too easy to get distracted driving a Tesla.

I always hoped that once the competition caught up, Tesla would change their attitude and listen to its customers more. Now that the competition is here and they are struggling, will be interesting to see how they respond.

They need to go back to offering some OPTIONS so owner's can configure the features they want, as you could for the first 6 or 7 years. All Models need a complete redesign.

Despite my having been turned off by them and no longer buying Tesla's nor driving them daily, I still root for the company to succeed. I appreciate that because of them, EV's are where they are. And, now I hope they'll make changes to appeal to a wider group of buyers. Even many of the Tesla faithful have to be getting bored with the look of these cars after 12-13 years. Model S sales are pathetic. Start there with something that looks entirely new and different and bring back the luxury buyers.

Fingers crossed that Tesla sees the writing on the wall. They have name recognition now to compete with the big manufacturers, now they just need to catch up in terms of quality, production and variety. I'd love to own one again if they build one that's a little more driver friendly.

So after coming back home after 7 days away for work, I noticed my car would not respond to either my key cards or my phone. It's parked in an underground garage at my apartment. So, since the doors won't unlock, I ended up having to call Tesla Roadside Assistance and have a tow truck get it over to a service center (closed for the weekends so I need to leave it there, lucky me).

Tesla support agent think it's because my car wasn't plugged-in and lost all that battery. But is losing 55% charge in a week normal (I'm in DC, but I don't think the cold would be that bad on the car)? I had the M3 for barely over 2 weeks .