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12V battery replacement [by tesla mobile service]

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How many people owning ICE's preventatively swap their 12v batteries? I'd imagine the number is less than 1%
EVs recharge their 12v batteries differently than ICE cars do. You can't compare the two. But I guess if you were familiar with the way the systems worked, you wouldn't be upset over having to replace the battery to begin with.

It's a similar situation with certain years of BMW's where they implemented a ridiculously complex charging system for the battery to the point where you have to reprogram your computer when you replace they 12v battery. And, the batteries exhaust themselves regular basis, just as they do on many EVs, needing replacements.
 
I know, it's crazy right? It's almost as ridiculous as having to buy tires because they wear out or something. Tesla should make tires that never need replacing, and a windshield washer reservoir that never needs refilling!
crazy that Tesla covers that replacement part under the 4yr warranty then. Something tells me even they don't think it should fail within 2-4 yrs....
 
I agree with TexasTezla that one can't just say the average life of the lead acid battery in a Tesla is 2 years. Only Tesla will know the average, but I am pretty sure that is longer than 2 years. Mine had been in my Model 3 since March 2018 and over 65k miles. I expect it to last at least 4 but maybe 5 years for me, as that is how long they have usually lasted on many of my previous vehicles.

Also, it is easy to jump start a Tesla just like an ICE car. If it doesn't stay on, your 12v battery has at least one shorted cell and you can just disconnect it and run the car with no battery.
 
Funnily enough I have a 2019 with about 14K on it and 3 weeks ago I got the scary message. It was under warranty so mobile service came out and replaced it.

Then just two days ago my better half's, which is older 2018 popped up same message but she has like 77K on it so out of warranty but for tesla mobile to replace was $124 at her work place, which is pretty good. I couldn't find one to buy as cheap as that.

Debates about lifespan etc aside.
 
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I agree with TexasTezla that one can't just say the average life of the lead acid battery in a Tesla is 2 years. Only Tesla will know the average, but I am pretty sure that is longer than 2 years. Mine had been in my Model 3 since March 2018 and over 65k miles. I expect it to last at least 4 but maybe 5 years for me, as that is how long they have usually lasted on many of my previous vehicles.

Also, it is easy to jump start a Tesla just like an ICE car. If it doesn't stay on, your 12v battery has at least one shorted cell and you can just disconnect it and run the car with no battery.
There are also at 2 revisions of the 12v battery for Model 3. Mine is a revision -A, but most Model 3 out there will have revision -B. I think revision -B was put into cars around May 2018 and later (part #1129182-00-B). Who knows what changes were made to it.
 
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Our 3 1/2 year old Model 3 got a notification for battery replacement, so we made an app appointment for service, which was 6 days away. The mobile service took less than 10 minutes and it was free. We are thrilled.
View attachment 694836
Mines gave me the warning just after I crossed the 51K mark so it ended up costing me $119 for the mobile ranger to come out and change it. Oh well!
 
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Anyone found a lead-acid replacement battery at the large chain auto parts stores? I don't see one listed online. If so, please provide specs.
Thanks.
Yes, a Group Size 51R battery will fit and you can find one at any auto parts store. I would stick with an AGM because that's what Tesla's OEM battery seems to be. This is the one I have bookmarked in case my battery dies, my local auto parts chain O'Reilly Auto Parts has it https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/...inum-battery-group-size-51r/ssbq/51rplt?pos=0
 
Yes, a Group Size 51R battery will fit and you can find one at any auto parts store. I would stick with an AGM because that's what Tesla's OEM battery seems to be. This is the one I have bookmarked in case my battery dies, my local auto parts chain O'Reilly Auto Parts has it https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/...inum-battery-group-size-51r/ssbq/51rplt?pos=0


FWIW their "check this fits" feature lets me pick a Tesla model 3- but then says it doesn't fit in it.
 
EVs recharge their 12v batteries differently than ICE cars do. You can't compare the two. But I guess if you were familiar with the way the systems worked, you wouldn't be upset over having to replace the battery to begin with.

It's a similar situation with certain years of BMW's where they implemented a ridiculously complex charging system for the battery to the point where you have to reprogram your computer when you replace they 12v battery. And, the batteries exhaust themselves regular basis, just as they do on many EVs, needing replacements.

Yeah, had one of those BMW's - I think the logic, given we talk a lot about battery degradation re Tesla's in general and even on this thread, is that the higher-end 12V battery chemistry (and even the 3rd part one for that BMW was $280 vs $500 for the OEM part) degrades and the computer algorithm avoids overcharging damage by reducing the full charge depending on the age of the battery. But heck if I'm going to pay the BMW dealer 2X for the battery and another $300 just to reprogram the computer, that only lasts 4 years anyways, I'll just buy a new battery every 2-3 years - at the end there the computer thought the 11-year old car still had the original battery (irony is even when the dealer replaced the 12v battery once at around 4 years, they didn't even re-program the computer).

We're still on the original 12V batteries on our two Tesla's at the 3- and 4-year marks respectively. Did replace batteries myself on my ICE cars, but as long as we have two cars, never bothered to do preventatively, just use the other car to go buy a battery as needed.
 
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$200!!! Tesla sells em for $85.
I know. Nobody can beat the Tesla OEM battery in price, but he specifically asked about a replacement he could find at an auto parts store. There are cheaper group size 51R batteries available at some of them, but this specific one is one the few I'd replace my own with and not worry about it's longevity.
FWIW their "check this fits" feature lets me pick a Tesla model 3- but then says it doesn't fit in it.
Of course, there won't be any "compatible" batteries listed anywhere. Probably mostly due to Tesla not releasing enough specs for the manufacturers and vendors to have any idea what fits and to be able to stand behind their battery warranties.
 
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$150 every ~2 years for a part which lasts 4-6 years in other vehicles isn't acceptable though ... kinda goes against the point of low service costs.
Tesla needs to figure out why Model 3/Y burn through batteries so quickly and address it... software update or use different/ better batteries
I've lived in Florida for many years and I have never been able to go past 3 years on a 12v battery change....ever. Even my new 2015 Model S required a battery change within 18 mos of ownership. My Model 3 will be 3 years old this December and due to covid, haven't driven much for the past 18 months, but most likely will have to replace the battery. I can almost set my watch to this 3 year battery event. haha

I wish I could go more than 1 year without replacing my in-cabin air filter though. I only have 8800 miles and now just replacing it for the 3rd time!
 
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yup. and if your ICE car battery is dead... you are able to jumpstart and once the car is running it will stay running. with a Tesla it's not that easy... you can jump it but there's no guarantee it won't shut down a few minutes later
Are you positive about that? I’ve read posts that after you jump start, the contacts close and the dc-dc converter is powered….you can drive the car indefinitely without jump starting again…as long as you don’t let the car fall asleep...aka keep sentry mode activated. One poster said he did just that on a road trip….only issue was a 12v warning sign...which is to be expected. People have totally disconnected the 12v with the car on (contactors closed)and everything worked. I guess the situation that wouldn’t work is if your dc-dc converter is also messed.