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18" OEM Tire replacement choices?

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The correct way to patch a tire is to dismount the tire and use a mushroom plug that is sealed from the inside. These can be used if you carve away the foam in the area around the hole so that the plug can be vulcanized cleanly to the tire. An external plug is really for emergency use and should be removed and replaced with an internal plug.
 
For reference, here are the Rev/mile specs for the 3 best 18" fitments:

OEM 235/45-18 - 790 rev/mile
+width 245/45-18 - 780 rev/mile
++width 255/40-18 - 799 rev/mile

Since the 255/40 is already a smaller rolling diameter than OEM, going down to 35 aspect is going to be even smaller at 832 rev/mile.
Yes, it'll be roughly 5% shorter. Pretty substantial but I think OK for this use. It'll look like ass but that doesn't matter to me when the goal is "be quicker around the course". The tire is spec'd 2lb lighter for the 35 profile (these are RE71R), and shorter means that mass has ever lower rotational mass, so that's going to make a meaningful difference I expect.

My biggest concern is it getting too firm and starting to loose some contact on modest pavement undulations and such. The second biggest concern is catching something where I shouldn't be going and busting my rim because of it. Not so much for rim cost, because these are "cheap but functional" rims, but if your rim cracks you tend to get a flat very, very quick and that means not so much control anymore.
 
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The correct way to patch a tire is to dismount the tire and use a mushroom plug that is sealed from the inside. These can be used if you carve away the foam in the area around the hole so that the plug can be vulcanized cleanly to the tire. An external plug is really for emergency use and should be removed and replaced with an internal plug.
IIRC Michelin's official technical note for it is to use an angle grinder to remove foam from the patch area? Which I've had done to the original MXM4 tires when I caught a screw in one. But yes, definitely the move it to remove the foam that's in the way to make a good, permanent patch.

I'm watching others using these aftermarket "doughnut" tires, to see if that works out for temporary solution to flats. I have no interest in packing temp plug material, anyway.
 
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I'm watching others using these aftermarket "doughnut" tires, to see if that works out for temporary solution to flats. I have no interest in packing temp plug material, anyway.
I bought an OEM 18" wheel and tire from another owner who bought aftermarket wheels and sold off the factory set as soon as he got the car. I actually bought the full set from him and sold off the other 3 with tire totes to others on the local FB Model 3 Owner's group.
 
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I bought an OEM 18" wheel and tire from another owner who bought aftermarket wheels and sold off the factory set as soon as he got the car. I actually bought the full set from him and sold off the other 3 with tire totes to others on the local FB Model 3 Owner's group.
I thought about that. That's a lot of extra weight and bulk to be hauling around. The rim+tire, before a jack, is 50 lb and it doesn't fit all that easily in the trunk.
 
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I thought about that. That's a lot of extra weight and bulk to be hauling around. The rim+tire, before a jack, is 50 lb and it doesn't fit all that easily in the trunk.
Agreed. It only goes with us when we're driving out of the metro area and the delay waiting for roadside would be unbearable. On a normal day, my wife is driving the 3 and I can go home, get the tire, jack, and torque wrench and get to her faster to change the tire than AAA or Tesla would get there anyway.
 
Agreed. It only goes with us when we're driving out of the metro area and the delay waiting for roadside would be unbearable. On a normal day, my wife is driving the 3 and I can go home, get the tire, jack, and torque wrench and get to her faster to change the tire than AAA or Tesla would get there anyway.

The only time I need the space is when I’m out of the metro area. If the car is close to home it’s usually empty. Except maybe groceries. So why take it out when you have the ample room and carry it when space is at a premium.

Since removing the foam tires I have 3 shots at getting back on the road. Goop, plug or Tesla Road side. If it look easy I’ll plug it. If Tesla appears will be responsive I’ll use them. The goop would be a last resort. I’ve plugged many tires with no issue at all.

Personally if it’s like finish nail type hole I think a patch plug is way overkill. They will bore it to 3/8 of an inch and stick plug in. I’ll peel the cord plug down until I can fit it in the tiny hole. I try to keep the wound as small as possible ( that is the safest ).

If I did carry a spare it would definitely be a space saver one. Which looks perfectly fine.
 
I've got a slow leak in my rear right tire. I brought it in to have it fixed and it's in the same spot that was already patched by Discount Tire 1 or 2 months ago. Guess they didn't do a great job? Anyway, can't re-patch the patch, so I'm looking to get tires a little earlier than planned.

I'm really struggling to find the right mix of attributes. The "mandatory" W and Y speed rating that most shops want to impose (due to a common software database they use telling them to) is really limited my choices. So, I've got some thoughts and some questions for anyone following this thread....

I found the Michelin Premier A/S seems to be highly regarded on tirerack and here, with the attributes I'm looking for (LRR, quiet, ride quality, performance). They are about $200 each. The problem is two-fold. Understanding both the speed rating AND the load rating. Seems that in 235/45R18, the Michelin Premier A/S is only available in 94V. Reading the GVWR on my door sill, The 94 is sufficient and the V speed rating should also be sufficient (149 MPH). I'm wondering if being on the far extent of the tires capabilities will result in me tearing them up and standing NO chance of getting the 60K mileage warranty. I'd be happy with 40K. So, do I stick with the correctly "rated" XL and W/Y speeds and accept the limited choice (it'd have to be back to non-Tesla MXM4s or Sport 4S). They have 45K and 30K warranties. I've got the Tesla-specific MXM4 now and don't think it's particularly quiet (even with the acoustic foam), so I wanted to try something else. ALL the tires I'm talking about in this message supposedly have LRR. Assuming I can get a shop to install 94Vs, thoughts on the idea?

EDIT: PS. Looking like in 245/45R18 they are available in 100V for $240 each (20% more)....
 
So, do I stick with the correctly "rated" XL and W/Y speeds and accept the limited choice (it'd have to be back to non-Tesla MXM4s or Sport 4S).
Have you considered the Michelin CrossClimate + or the Vredestein Quatrac 5? Both are very highly rated in the categories you deemed important and are available in the proper 18" size and speed rating with 98 load index and XL rating from TireRack. Those are the two I am most seriously considering when I need new tires in ~6 months or so.
 
If you want to put something other than the OEM tires on the car, you should have an idea about what you want to improve. These are just some of the considerations:
  • Cost (initial or cost/mile)
  • Dry Grip
  • Wet Grip
  • Snow/Ice Grip
  • Tread Life
  • Rolling Resistance
  • Noise
There are obvious choices if you want to reduce replacement Cost or increase Grip at the expense of other things like Tread Life or Rolling Resistance. You can also slightly decrease Cost per mile and increase Treadlife without any clear compromise in other attributes. IMHO, there is no tire that is obviously better than the OEM 18's across all parameters.

Below, (+) indicates better than Tesla OEM, (-) indicates worse.

Roughly equivalent:
Michelin Primacy Tour AS (Volvo OEM)
+ Cost (-$60 each)
+ Tread Life (540 vs 500 OEM)
- Noise (no acoustic treatment)

Compromise:
Michelin Pilot Sport 4 (Tesla)
++ Dry Grip
-- Tread Life (320 vs 500)
- Cost / mile (-$50 each, but much shorter life)

Continental ExtremeContact DWS-06
++ Cost (-$100 each)
+ Tread Life (560 vs 500)
+ Grip
- Noise
-- Rolling Resistance

These are just some examples I pulled from Tire Rack in the same size.

are you comparing to the OEM all season Michelin Primacy MXM4 or to the OEM summer tire Michelin Pilot Sport 4 ?

Either way, I'm surprised you didn't pick the best rated all season tire on tire rack to put on that short list.

Michelin CrossClimate+
 
Note that the load range is based on Max tire pressure. The XL tires usually have a higher max tire pressure. You don’t typically run a tire at max pressure. When you bring the tire down to the recommended tire pressure the load range is reduced.

I’d stick to what TireRack says is compatible.
 
Note that the load range is based on Max tire pressure. The XL tires usually have a higher max tire pressure. You don’t typically run a tire at max pressure. When you bring the tire down to the recommended tire pressure the load range is reduced.

You might not run at or near max pressure but some of us do.

As to Tire Rack showing it as compatible they do list the 235/45R18 98Y XL as compatible with the Model 3. You have to scroll to the bottom of the list to see the red dot.

https://www.tirerack.com/tires/tire...utoModel=Model+3&autoModClar=Rear-Wheel+Drive
 
You might not run at or near max pressure but some of us do.

As to Tire Rack showing it as compatible they do list the 235/45R18 98Y XL as compatible with the Model 3. You have to scroll to the bottom of the list to see the red dot.

https://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires.jsp?message=singleSize&tireMake=Michelin&tireModel=CrossClimate+&partnum=345YR8CCPXL&autoMake=Tesla&autoYear=2018&autoModel=Model+3&autoModClar=Rear-Wheel+Drive

You’re running at 50 psi cold on a XL tire?

I’ve not heard anyone foolish enough to do that.

And most 94 load range tires have a max of 44 lbs and RWD Model 3 door tag lists 45 psi cold. Again, that would be foolish.

You need some headroom for temperature rise. Tires can easily rise 5 pounds on hot highways.

There are reasons why the tires are spec the way they are. You don’t just look at the weight the tire can handle at it max pressure and ignore everything else.

Crossclimate is a perfectly compatible tire. Wouldn’t be my personal choice though.
 
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Tire rack reviews seem to prefer the Crossclimate+ for Wet and the Pilot Sport 4S for Dry.

But if you aren't going to run two sets of tires the Crossclimate+ clearly handles a wider variety of weather.

If you Track your car use whatever you want on track day ( Road Racing Tires | R Compound Tires | Racing Slicks | Dot Race Tires | Racing Rain Tires) , use a set of Crossclimate+ for the daily driving.

If you have lots of winter weather use Crossclimate+ for 7-9 months of the year (as summer bias all seasons) and your favorite dedicated snow/ice tires for the worst winter months.

If you never see snow but do see cold. Use your favorite summer tire in the 6 hotter months of the year and the Crossclimate+ in the 6 colder months.

If you want a single tire and don't want to bother with two sets guess what's on the top of the list. ;)

The two gotchas on that tire are road noise (vs other tires) and efficiency (it won't give as good a range as the OEM Primacy, though apparently the Primacy is noisier)