-
Want to remove ads? Register an account and login to see fewer ads, and become a Supporting Member to remove almost all ads.
20" Aftermarket Wheels
- Thread starter kirkbauer
- Start date
-
- Tags
- Driving Dynamics Model S
FlatSix911
Porsche 918 Hybrid
Question. This is my FIRST post, btw. I talked to T Sportline and they recommended only for Model S the tire size 245/40-20 for 20×9.0″ wheels with the TST 20s. They also stated it will be dangerous to install a 255/40 ZR20 tire on the TST wheels. Does anyone know why they are saying this?
Should I follow their recommendation?
SPXMike
Member
I just pulled the trigger on a set of 20" wheels. I have staggered 21's and am concerned about potential for wheel damage and the inability to rotate these expensive tires, so the investment should pay off. I learned the hard way when I blew a rear within 24 hours of taking delivery of my MS and the SC was glad to fix me up for $600 (tire was not fixable).
I'm going with TSW Genevas in gun metal grey. I really like the look of the Vorsteiner VFF103 but they are on backorder for a few months and they are really pricey @600 ea. The TSW Geneva, new for 2016, looks very similar to the VFF103, are also flow-formed, weight is similar to the VFF103 (which means they are way lighter than my OEM 21" turbines), and they are $200/wheel less. I'm also following @lolachampcar 's lead and getting aluminum hub rings (using plastic to pilot an aluminum wheel onto a steel hub does not seem ideal). Getyourwheels said they could do it for $85 for the set.
For tires I'm going with Michelin PSS 245/40/R20 which will give me the same circumference as the standard MS 19" wheels. I'll talk to my SC to see if I need to bring it in and have anything done as I have the "+" suspension. I know, whatever I have done will be on me, but since I will wind up width and circumference the same as Tesla OEM 19" I don't expect too much drama.
At two weeks the machined hub rings are the long lead so when they show up I'll make the switch and post pics.
I'm going with TSW Genevas in gun metal grey. I really like the look of the Vorsteiner VFF103 but they are on backorder for a few months and they are really pricey @600 ea. The TSW Geneva, new for 2016, looks very similar to the VFF103, are also flow-formed, weight is similar to the VFF103 (which means they are way lighter than my OEM 21" turbines), and they are $200/wheel less. I'm also following @lolachampcar 's lead and getting aluminum hub rings (using plastic to pilot an aluminum wheel onto a steel hub does not seem ideal). Getyourwheels said they could do it for $85 for the set.
For tires I'm going with Michelin PSS 245/40/R20 which will give me the same circumference as the standard MS 19" wheels. I'll talk to my SC to see if I need to bring it in and have anything done as I have the "+" suspension. I know, whatever I have done will be on me, but since I will wind up width and circumference the same as Tesla OEM 19" I don't expect too much drama.
At two weeks the machined hub rings are the long lead so when they show up I'll make the switch and post pics.
lolachampcar
Well-Known Member
SPX,
Make sure you have a die grinder or a torx set and a belt sander handy. The pockets on the hub mounting face of the new wheels does not line up 100% with the protruding brake disc retention screw. I marked the part that hit the wheel with a sharpe then removed the screw and used a belt sander to remove just a bit of the head so that the portion that was hitting was not flush with the disc. You'll see what I'm talking about when you pull one of your stock wheels (if you do not already know).
You may want to snag a spare rim just in case you take one out years from now and TSW is no longer making them. It happened to me once in the past where I basically scrapped the other three rims. I learned my lesson, buy a spare as cheap insurance and have not needed one since.
Make sure you have a die grinder or a torx set and a belt sander handy. The pockets on the hub mounting face of the new wheels does not line up 100% with the protruding brake disc retention screw. I marked the part that hit the wheel with a sharpe then removed the screw and used a belt sander to remove just a bit of the head so that the portion that was hitting was not flush with the disc. You'll see what I'm talking about when you pull one of your stock wheels (if you do not already know).
You may want to snag a spare rim just in case you take one out years from now and TSW is no longer making them. It happened to me once in the past where I basically scrapped the other three rims. I learned my lesson, buy a spare as cheap insurance and have not needed one since.
mike-415
Member
Many people including myself run 255/40-20 on 20*9" wheels. For the Michelin Pilot Sport (best summer street tire on the market, period), Michelin says you can safely use anything from a 20*8.5" to 20*10". 245s are closer to stock diameter, but 255s work fine in all situations except when reversing at an angle, when the fronts rub a bit. Even this likely could be solved by using a heat gun on the fender liners, if it really bothered you. But dangerous? No. I had 245/40-20 ContiSportContact 5p before and they were far inferior, despite being the "correct" size.
mike-415
Member
That said, I only got the 255s because the 245s were out of stock. It looks like the 245/40-20 is once again available, so you may as well get 245s.
SPXMike
Member
Copy all Lola. I have the tools required to remove and resurface the screw and I will add another rim to my order. Thank you for your advice!
lolachampcar
Well-Known Member
I think ESE actually has to ship new wheels before anyone is going to find them used 
Roadrunner13
Member
artsci
Sponsor
That's total fiction and an irrational fear. Tesla delivers many cars with 19" wheels. Will they void their own warranty because 19" wheels might damage the "body structure." Total BS.
Similar threads
- Locked
- Marketplace listing
