2014 P85 Gets a 2017 facelift using OEM parts

[TheCharlesChen]

I looked at my hood..it has the double loop (latch).
What kind of mods need to be done?...where is it hitting?

Hmm, I don’t know about that one. It depends where the OEM bumper meets the latch. On the single loop, the latch handle blocks the bumper and the little plastic lever has to be remove. Can you take a picture of the latch with the top plastic cover removed?

 

[JoeMartin]

@TheCharlesChen

I can take the plastic piece off when I go to lunch later. Here are some preliminary photos:

 

[TheCharlesChen]

@TheCharlesChen

I can take the plastic piece off when I go to lunch later. Here are some preliminary photos:

That rear loop won't need any modification. The front loop, I think it the same as the single loop hoods. Just remove the little plastic lever from the latch, and you should be fine.

 

[Wratran]

That rear loop won't need any modification. The front loop, I think it the same as the single loop hoods. Just remove the little plastic lever from the latch, and you should be fine.

Plastic lever...are you referring to the emergency release cable?...the cable that goes to the wheel well

 

[TheCharlesChen]

No, look at these pictures. The plastic tab is this thing. Remove the rivet shown with an arrow in the second pick and this plastic tab will slide off. There's a clip you have to wedge a small screw driver into to remove the tab from the metal latch. This will give it space. I'll take a pic of my car later to show you.

 

[TheCharlesChen]

The reason is because the new T-badge housing is concave and will but up against the plastic tab, but it won't interfere with the latch itself.

 

[TheCharlesChen]

Guys, I'm an idiot. I just checked and I have the double loop hood too.

You can see here where the plastic latch tab used to fit through that little hole in the top of the plastic. Both the gapfiller and the T-badge housing would interfere with that area, so you have to remove that plastic tab.

Ok, so here's my plastic removed. As you can see, my latch tab is gone.

Here's what the back of my gap filler looks like. The T-badge screws into the back of the concave housing and then the gap filler attaches with screws through the top which goes into the T-badge itself.

Here's the homelink module shifted over by one screw hole. The other screw hole already exists in fact, and is where that little plastic tab on the right side of the homelink module used to go into. Just unscrew, shift over a couple inches into the new hole, and screw it back in. Easy peasy. You can see from this overhead shot why you have to shift it over. It would get in the way of the t-badge housing otherwise.

Here's a frontal view of the gapfiller installed on the housing.

 

[Wratran]

this is very helpful on how to install the gap filler...it will saved a lot of time...make the installation a breeze.

1) Are you thinking about adding weatherstripping on top of the gap filler?...if yes...let us know which type work

2) what was the function of the removed tab?

 

[TheCharlesChen]

this is very helpful on how to install the gap filler...it will saved a lot of time...make the installation a breeze.

Are you thinking about adding weatherstripping on top of the gap filler?...is yes...let us know which type work

The 2 screw holes on gap filler...is it secure to factory hole of the T emblem?

So, yes the holes in the gap filler will fit into the T-emblem and secure it. However, the T-emblem needs to be trimmed. I cut directly across the two factory holes on the T-emblem, and then set the screw in the back to the housing and drilled two new pilot holes through the trim as a guide. Then put new screws in. Use Gorilla double sided tape on both sides of the gapfiller and it will seal to the housing and to the top plastics.

If you want to use weatherstripping, even better.

 

[markb1]

this is very helpful on how to install the gap filler...it will saved a lot of time...make the installation a breeze.

1) Are you thinking about adding weatherstripping on top of the gap filler?...if yes...let us know which type work

2) what was the function of the removed tab?

The tab is a manual release for the forward latch. If you use the manual frunk release under the glove box, it only releases the rear latch, allowing the hood to open a couple of inches. You then have to push the tab to release the forward latch. It's a safety mechanism to prevent the hood from flying open and blocking the driver's view, similar to many other cars on the market. If you open the frunk via software (either the touchscreen, app, or keyfob), it releases both latches. (The software locks out that function while driving.)

In later versions of the car, Tesla did away with the second latch, and they moved the manual frunk release from the cabin to the wheel well. I suppose they figure no one will accidentally pull the cord in the wheel well while driving.

So if you remove the tab, I'm not sure what you need to do to get into the frunk in a power outage.

 

[TheCharlesChen]

The tab is a manual release for the forward latch. If you use the manual frunk release under the glove box, it only releases the rear latch, allowing the hood to open a couple of inches. You then have to push the tab to release the forward latch. It's a safety mechanism to prevent the hood from flying open and blocking the driver's view, similar to many other cars on the market. If you open the frunk via software (either the touchscreen, app, or keyfob), it releases both latches. (The software locks out that function while driving.)

In later versions of the car, Tesla did away with the second latch, and they moved the manual frunk release from the cabin to the wheel well. I suppose they figure no one will accidentally pull the cord in the wheel well while driving.

So if you remove the tab, I'm not sure what you need to do to get into the frunk in a power outage.

If that happens, I would just pry out and break the gap filler piece and slip my hand in and pop up the latch. I can always make another gap filler piece. If this happened to anyone, I would offer to print you a new one for free.

 

[Troyin909]

Yes it does fit I just didnt put it back on because I wanted to take a picture of the latch.

It’s been a while since your refresh. I’m out in corona but looking for shops that have done this and did good clean work. For the right price I’d rather let the shop do it. Can you put me in touch with who you used. Troy

 

[dubzz24]

Does anyone have any finished install pictures? Looks like a great alternative to the $3k aftermarket options out there.

 

[Newchurch]

Hi from Germany,

here's a picture gf my 2014 Model S with facelift bumper and facelift hood:

The hood is painted meanwhile, but I need to build a new double loop metal thing, because the loops don't fit with the facelift hood.
At the moment I have mounted the pre-facelift hood.

Regards,
Peter

 

[Chaserr]

How tough was fitting the hood? Artsci made it sound like it wasn't worth doing.

 

[Newchurch]

The facelift hood fits perfect, without any problems.
The biggest problem is the double loop for the lock, both loops are too long and you have to figure out the correct length.

 

[S-ALSET]

Hi from Germany,

here's a picture gf my 2014 Model S with facelift bumper and facelift hood:

The hood is painted meanwhile, but I need to build a new double loop metal thing, because the loops don't fit with the facelift hood.
At the moment I have mounted the pre-facelift hood.

Regards,
Peter

Hi Peter, is this picture with the pre-facelifted hood?? It looks great! do you have any shots from the top?

 

[Newchurch]

This is the facelift hood.
I have no other pictures, sorry.

 

[Chaserr]

The biggest problem is the double loop for the lock, both loops are too long and you have to figure out the correct length.

This was part of Artsci's "IT's NOT WORTH IT!" trouble. Can you expound on what you needed to do? You make it seeem much easier!

 

[cmarshack]

The facelift hood fits perfect, without any problems.
The biggest problem is the double loop for the lock, both loops are too long and you have to figure out the correct length.

Are you able to use the seals/hood liner from your old hood on this hood? Ths size and shape of the frunk are different and therefore the seals will like not align to your frunk. I am curious how you handle this.