Wreckless316
Member
No. I've also done this wrong in the past, but for vampire drain, you're looking at displayed rated miles.
It's ~200Wh per displayed rated mile, as mentioned above, so you should use that value. In fact, for any calculation, use the value for Wh per displayed rated mile (not the charging constant). As I said above, it may well be easiest to just ignore the charging constant. It's kind of unnecessary noise, though it is directly related to the per rated mile/discharge constant...and it shows up on the charging screen indirectly...so we carry it around and track it...
So, If you lost 3.5kWh of energy (untracked as mentioned above): that is 17.5 rated miles in 6 days, 2.92 miles per day.
The miles on your screen each are worth ~200Wh from your battery. It's that simple. If you drive up 1000 feet, that's about 1.4kWh potential eneergy in addition to the driving. So that's going to require at least 7 rated miles (slightly more due to drivetrain inefficiency) more than driving the same distance on the flat.
excellent thanks for answering all my silly questions. Now for the final dagger.Yes. It is useful for calculating your full remaining battery capacity, which includes the buffer, at 100%, and is predictive of what the CAN bus readback would tell you.
Or you can just use the discharge constant, multiply by your rated miles at 100%, and divide by 0.955. It will give you the same value.
I know that 2-3 miles per day vampire is low. But you mentioned in another thread it’s possibly to get it down to 1 mile per day. What sort of outside the box things can I do to get it that low? It’s somewhat important as I don’t have a home charger and need t maximize efficiency