@rbcopod I was afraid something like that would happen. Those symptoms sound like what might happen if he hub drew more power than the USB-A port can supply, and the port doesn't disable itself when that happens. I can't say for sure that's the issue of course, without actually measuring and knowing the port's spec.
Let's say it is a power problem. There are two routes to address it:
1. Attempt to draw less power. Some basics you could do:
- Replace the USB3 hub with a USB2 hub. USB2 needs less power. (Whether it will actually uses less depends on the efficiency of the chip/hub involved of course.)
- Plug in less things at once, like don't plug in gamepad and music memory stick at the same time, no need for that really.
- Maybe a wired USB gamepad would use less power than the wireless transceiver. (I don't know if this is the case, just something to check / test / try.)
2. Supply more power. Replace the bus-powered USB hub with a self-powered one. You will need to supply the correct voltage of course.
- Could look for a hub that uses 12V and tap directly into 12V accessory power. Disclaimer: I have no idea how consistent the 12V accessory power is, so I don't know if this is safe or if it might mess up your USB hub from voltage dips or spikes that it might not be built for.
- Could look for a hub that uses 5V or 9V (up to 3A) and get that from a USB-C port. Maybe 15V or even 20V too, depends which USB PD power profiles your USB-C ports ports support. (Since your car has different USB-C ports than mine I don't want know which PD profiles it supports.)
Let's say it is a power problem. There are two routes to address it:
1. Attempt to draw less power. Some basics you could do:
- Replace the USB3 hub with a USB2 hub. USB2 needs less power. (Whether it will actually uses less depends on the efficiency of the chip/hub involved of course.)
- Plug in less things at once, like don't plug in gamepad and music memory stick at the same time, no need for that really.
- Maybe a wired USB gamepad would use less power than the wireless transceiver. (I don't know if this is the case, just something to check / test / try.)
2. Supply more power. Replace the bus-powered USB hub with a self-powered one. You will need to supply the correct voltage of course.
- Could look for a hub that uses 12V and tap directly into 12V accessory power. Disclaimer: I have no idea how consistent the 12V accessory power is, so I don't know if this is safe or if it might mess up your USB hub from voltage dips or spikes that it might not be built for.
- Could look for a hub that uses 5V or 9V (up to 3A) and get that from a USB-C port. Maybe 15V or even 20V too, depends which USB PD power profiles your USB-C ports ports support. (Since your car has different USB-C ports than mine I don't want know which PD profiles it supports.)