Welcome to Tesla Motors Club
Discuss Tesla's Model S, Model 3, Model X, Model Y, Cybertruck, Roadster and More.
Register

2022 Model Y - USB Data Ports - USB-A Glovebox Only

This site may earn commission on affiliate links.
@rbcopod I was afraid something like that would happen. Those symptoms sound like what might happen if he hub drew more power than the USB-A port can supply, and the port doesn't disable itself when that happens. I can't say for sure that's the issue of course, without actually measuring and knowing the port's spec.

Let's say it is a power problem. There are two routes to address it:

1. Attempt to draw less power. Some basics you could do:
- Replace the USB3 hub with a USB2 hub. USB2 needs less power. (Whether it will actually uses less depends on the efficiency of the chip/hub involved of course.)
- Plug in less things at once, like don't plug in gamepad and music memory stick at the same time, no need for that really.
- Maybe a wired USB gamepad would use less power than the wireless transceiver. (I don't know if this is the case, just something to check / test / try.)

2. Supply more power. Replace the bus-powered USB hub with a self-powered one. You will need to supply the correct voltage of course.
- Could look for a hub that uses 12V and tap directly into 12V accessory power. Disclaimer: I have no idea how consistent the 12V accessory power is, so I don't know if this is safe or if it might mess up your USB hub from voltage dips or spikes that it might not be built for.
- Could look for a hub that uses 5V or 9V (up to 3A) and get that from a USB-C port. Maybe 15V or even 20V too, depends which USB PD power profiles your USB-C ports ports support. (Since your car has different USB-C ports than mine I don't want know which PD profiles it supports.)
 
ve got even worse news.

I have a ‘22 MYLR born after 11/1/21 with crippled console USB c ports.

As a work around I put a 4 port usb a hub in the glovebox. I mounted the Tesla usb thumb drive for sentry, a microsd card to port 2 for usb music, and I have a wired controller for use in third port. 4th port empty. I leave the game controller not plugged in. I’m planning to get a wireless dongle to eventually occupy one slot for gaming rather than using a wired controller.

Was three hours from home, just supercharged, and the touch screen went unresponsive. Music started skipping. Then the screen went dark. I was driving at the time. It was night. Headlights stayed on, but directionals no longer functioned externally or internally. Obviously had no idea what speed I was going.

I held down both steering wheel buttons for 20 seconds. Nothing. Pulled over.

Tried both buttons again. Nothing. Tried brake pedal plus both buttons. Nothing. Called support.

While waiting for support, the screen woke up and gave an initializing message. It was dark for over 5 minutes before it recovered.

Support remoted in and said my cpu was going crazy processing and it was likely because i had a usb hub. He said the usb hub in the glovebox can only handle sentry and that’s it. I can take it out for a usb music drive, or for a game controller. He said they don’t support using a hub in the glovebox because the cpu can’t handle the data load.

So I have a new car that can’t be safely driven if I try to use music in it while driving. I have no ability to leave a usb hub in. I have no other place to plug in data for boombox, gaming, or usb music. I’m told by support that the car can’t handle it. I am denied Sonic and Cuphead.

This is despite the manuals clearly stating that all of this functionality exists and is designed for regular use. That is except for those tens of thousands of us who had the data from the consoles quietly removed months after we ordered the car. This is a deceitful and underhanded alteration.

Now there isn’t even a safe workaround.

Let the lawsuits begin.
Note you can use a dual slot reader like this that supports two cards (do note it may complain if one is empty):
https://www.amazon.com/UGREEN-Reader-Memory-Windows-Simultaneously/dp/B01EFPX9XA/
I'm using this right now on my 2021 model glovebox port with a High Endurance microSD card (SD slot has an empty microSD to SD converter).

Also, you can format a drive/card with two partitions (one for dashcam, one for music). A lot of people do that.

Can't help on the controller though. The rumormill is Tesla is working on bluetooth controller support as a solution for those without the data slots. That said, plenty of people have used USB hubs on the glovebox slot without a problem, and it's a 3.0 port (at least it was in 2021). What model is your USB hub so people can avoid buying the same thing? Unfortunately USB hubs are made in all kinds of different fashions and is far from universal.

What tier of support did you get to? I feel he is BSing about CPU load. Even the old Atom chip was able to handle multiple USB data inputs no problem, and there is no indication that they changed to a lower end CPU (in fact the opposite, they are moving to Ryzen). Also the port in the glovebox is 3.0 (unless they downgraded in 2022, you can easily check for the pins, there are 5 extra contacts in 3.0), so should handle even more data than the previous console ports (which were 2.0).
Glovebox USB port. Is it 2.0 or 3.0?
 
Last edited:
  • Like
Reactions: rbcopod
The glovebox usb is for sentry only as stated in the manual. Just because you can from a power delivery doesn't mean you should. Too much risk there. My 2 cents. Keep sentry as factory as possible.
Yes but my USB ports in the console have been neutered. There are pages and pages in the manual about using the data ports for boom box, gaming controllers, usb music, and customized light shows. Who knows what additional functions may be introduced? Simply not the car as ordered or described in their own literature.
 
@rbcopod I was afraid something like that would happen. Those symptoms sound like what might happen if he hub drew more power than the USB-A port can supply, and the port doesn't disable itself when that happens. I can't say for sure that's the issue of course, without actually measuring and knowing the port's spec.

Let's say it is a power problem. There are two routes to address it:

1. Attempt to draw less power. Some basics you could do:
- Replace the USB3 hub with a USB2 hub. USB2 needs less power. (Whether it will actually uses less depends on the efficiency of the chip/hub involved of course.)
- Plug in less things at once, like don't plug in gamepad and music memory stick at the same time, no need for that really.
- Maybe a wired USB gamepad would use less power than the wireless transceiver. (I don't know if this is the case, just something to check / test / try.)

2. Supply more power. Replace the bus-powered USB hub with a self-powered one. You will need to supply the correct voltage of course.
- Could look for a hub that uses 12V and tap directly into 12V accessory power. Disclaimer: I have no idea how consistent the 12V accessory power is, so I don't know if this is safe or if it might mess up your USB hub from voltage dips or spikes that it might not be built for.
- Could look for a hub that uses 5V or 9V (up to 3A) and get that from a USB-C port. Maybe 15V or even 20V too, depends which USB PD power profiles your USB-C ports ports support. (Since your car has different USB-C ports than mine I don't want know which PD profiles it supports.)
Your points are appreciated. I just don’t think I or any purchaser should be going through this much mcgyvering to have the promised functionality.
 
  • Like
Reactions: BigNick
Try a different, unpowered basic USB hub. I have been using this one since summer '21 for Dashcam and a USB thumb drive (don't frequently listen to the USB library but never had any issue.) This is in a 2020 LRMY so definitely not Ryzen.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07FH7XJCD/

Also purchased this hub as the 1st order was delayed.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07FCKTG8L/
As a rather seasoned member of this forum, judging by your voluminous posts, would you consider this?

 
Side note on the Ali stuff, u may also check for the correct Tesla official part online (eBay, etc...).
Would also expect "usual retrofitters" as hansshow to offer a part prob soon and then likely YT reviews. Overall it's still very early and atm many if not most have empty USB ports waiting for a ranger.

Some could even order it from Tesla in the past (to retrofit USB A ports to USB C).
Seems this guy did it:
 
Side note on the Ali stuff, u may also check for the correct Tesla official part online (eBay, etc...).
Would also expect "usual retrofitters" as hansshow to offer a part prob soon and then likely YT reviews. Overall it's still very early and atm many if not most have empty USB ports waiting for a ranger.

Some could even order it from Tesla in the past (to retrofit USB A ports to USB C).
Seems this guy did it:
My biggest concern on this product, having watched the limited installation video, is that it goes from a single cable connection to two (with the addition of the data cable). This implies that there is a data cable sitting unused inside the console. Can this be confirmed? Otherwise you have a new, very expensive data port with no data.
 
Note you can use a dual slot reader like this that supports two cards (do note it may complain if one is empty):
https://www.amazon.com/UGREEN-Reader-Memory-Windows-Simultaneously/dp/B01EFPX9XA/
I'm using this right now on my 2021 model glovebox port with a High Endurance microSD card (SD slot has an empty microSD to SD converter).

Also, you can format a drive/card with two partitions (one for dashcam, one for music). A lot of people do that.

Can't help on the controller though. The rumormill is Tesla is working on bluetooth controller support as a solution for those without the data slots. That said, plenty of people have used USB hubs on the glovebox slot without a problem, and it's a 3.0 port (at least it was in 2021). What model is your USB hub so people can avoid buying the same thing? Unfortunately USB hubs are made in all kinds of different fashions and is far from universal.

What tier of support did you get to? I feel he is BSing about CPU load. Even the old Atom chip was able to handle multiple USB data inputs no problem, and there is no indication that they changed to a lower end CPU (in fact the opposite, they are moving to Ryzen). Also the port in the glovebox is 3.0 (unless they downgraded in 2022, you can easily check for the pins, there are 5 extra contacts in 3.0), so should handle even more data than the previous console ports (which were 2.0).
Glovebox USB port. Is it 2.0 or 3.0?
I want to try this
But am not sure if there is an orphaned data cable in the console waiting for this opportunity.

Interested in your thoughts stopcrazypp.
 
As a rather seasoned member of this forum, judging by your voluminous posts, would you consider this?

I don't know; maybe if the data chip update could be easily removed in case of issues. Tesla would almost deny any warranty claims if any factory component is damaged.
 
  • Like
Reactions: rbcopod
Yes as usual but that one would be quite easy to swap.
U may try to hunt the official part (not sure what would be their warranty policy if u installed an official one)

Saw it listed on eBay: 1755200-00-B (no idea if that would work, it should afaik)
 
Yes but my USB ports in the console have been neutered. There are pages and pages in the manual about using the data ports for boom box, gaming controllers, usb music, and customized light shows. Who knows what additional functions may be introduced? Simply not the car as ordered or described in their own literature.
Correct, I'm hopeful Tesla fixes it soon but using the glovebox USB port shouldnt be the solution. Regardless, communication on this issue has been poor. Tesla knows what cars have been impacted - they purposely removed or hid controller only games from impacted vehicles without even a mention in the release notes.
 
Your points are appreciated. I just don’t think I or any purchaser should be going through this much mcgyvering to have the promised functionality.
No disagreement there! Just trying to help you work with what you've got until Tesla maybe, hopefully makes this better.

The microchip shortages are no joke and USB-C related chips are in high demand. I'm 99.99% sure Tesla made this change because they couldn't get what they needed to continue supporting data on the ports, not for any cost savings or because they don't care about the feature. It seems clear now these charge-only ports came about to unblock installation of the front USB-C ports after they had to stop installing them at all.

@stopcrazypp's idea of a dual slot SD card reader is a good one, one of those with 2 (micro)SD cards should use less power than two separate readers or USB sticks. ("Should" is key, need to test and verify, there's plenty of janky USB devices out there and I even have a cheap dual SD card reader that draws way more power just sitting idle than it should. I only use it occasionally at my desk though so I just don't leave it plugged in.)

For even less power draw (probably), I think I've read these cars support a partition layout that allows for dashcam and music on one drive.