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2022 RWD Footwell door pocket light mod?

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It uses dry contacts to sw on and off.
The module I linked or similar would also be needed.
I'm waiting on 2 of these to turn up as well (also req dry contact to activate)
 
It uses dry contacts to sw on and off.
The module I linked or similar would also be needed.
I'm waiting on 2 of these to turn up as well (also req dry contact to activate)
I see. Just went through the wiring diagram for the internals of the car, yes, while tapping into dome lights would do-able (the rear set as that only has the L & R lights to deal with and none of the hazard light and the vanity mirror lights, etc), the molding on the roof areas is proving to be difficult to run a wire underneath it. Would love to hear what you find from the relays you're waiting on and whether the puddle light (or the B-pillar harness connector) is where we could potentially tap into.

(yes, am loving the free service subscription as I can now access the wiring diagram, connector and circuit diagrams, as well as how to remove every single clips and retainer in the car).
 
I see. Just went through the wiring diagram for the internals of the car, yes, while tapping into dome lights would do-able (the rear set as that only has the L & R lights to deal with and none of the hazard light and the vanity mirror lights, etc), the molding on the roof areas is proving to be difficult to run a wire underneath it. Would love to hear what you find from the relays you're waiting on and whether the puddle light (or the B-pillar harness connector) is where we could potentially tap into.

(yes, am loving the free service subscription as I can now access the wiring diagram, connector and circuit diagrams, as well as how to remove every single clips and retainer in the car).
Will do, I got the subscription you mentioned, only had a quick look at it, but didn't see anything about wiring diagrams on plugs and wire colours, just instructions on how to remove stuff.
I'll have to check it out more, the dome light harness must end up under the dash somewhere.
 
Will do, I got the subscription you mentioned, only had a quick look at it, but didn't see anything about wiring diagrams on plugs and wire colours, just instructions on how to remove stuff.
I'll have to check it out more, the dome light harness must end up under the dash somewhere.
yes it is there, just on a different section. after logging in, instead of going into service manual, go "circuit & connector reference", then choose our model year and factory, then circuit diagram. On the first page it has references to the wire colour designators.
 
Cheers.
That's some pretty heavy reading lol
Have to check it out more on my pc.
Just noticed the service and repair manual (not owners) is free. Have just signed up with UK as it is right hand drive. Check link in article. Tesla's Service Manuals Now Free Of Charge, Grab Them While You Can

Not fully grasping the manual yet.

Puddles front right are:
Connector X053B for tapping into.
Wiring pg 16.

Map/dome lights are:
Connector X981F
Wiring pg25

Again, I'm still not grasping it fully yet, I need to be looking at the car connectors/Wiring to make more sense of it.

When I installed the door handles I ran wires from door trim area to footwell light area (for future footwell and door tray mod)
Running these wires were a pain the the butt.
so don't really need to know pin number on the X053B plug.


I should find it out for instructions for other ppl.
It would req a few wiring mods, but I'd like to try and put some nice instructions together eventually.

Preferably using dome light circuit. (eventually maybe)

Bottom line is, if there was an upgrade fee to turn on footwell and door tray lights would solve this.
A money grabber Elon should be doing.
 
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Not fully grasping the manual yet.

Puddles front right are:
Connector X053B for tapping into.
Wiring pg 16.

Map/dome lights are:
Connector X981F
Wiring pg25

Again, I'm still not grasping it fully yet, I need to be looking at the car connectors/Wiring to make more sense of it.

When I installed the door handles I ran wires from door trim area to footwell light area (for future footwell and door tray mod)
Running these wires were a pain the the butt.
so don't really need to know pin number on the X053B plug.


I should find it out for instructions for other ppl.
It would req a few wiring mods, but I'd like to try and put some nice instructions together eventually.

Preferably using dome light circuit. (eventually maybe)

Bottom line is, if there was an upgrade fee to turn on footwell and door tray lights would solve this.
A money grabber Elon should be doing.
Service manual 1710 (harnesses) under "headliner", you can see that both front & rear overhead consoles harnesses run down to left-side A pillar inside of where the outside repeater / camera is. For this though the doc is for UK RHD vehicles, there might be a chance of it being on the right-side A pillar. That aside, seems like that would be the place I'd test/tap into instead of the overhead areas (providing the wire colours don't change through different connectors). One is shorter distance and two, serviceability would be better.

Hahaa, absolutely agree this should be a separate upgradable money grabber for Elon&gang. Surely this would deter us from spending time reading up materials and trying to figure out the cheap-arse way out.
 
Service manual 1710 (harnesses) under "headliner", you can see that both front & rear overhead consoles harnesses run down to left-side A pillar inside of where the outside repeater / camera is. For this though the doc is for UK RHD vehicles, there might be a chance of it being on the right-side A pillar. That aside, seems like that would be the place I'd test/tap into instead of the overhead areas (providing the wire colours don't change through different connectors). One is shorter distance and two, serviceability would be better.

Hahaa, absolutely agree this should be a separate upgradable money grabber for Elon&gang. Surely this would deter us from spending time reading up materials and trying to figure out the cheap-arse way out.

For what I see in the print, the dome lights have a + feed with pwn signals, not a switch wire in the pillar connector.

Gunna be easier to tap into puddle lights for footwell/door pockets.
Not as fancy as dome light switching, but easier.
And a sep push button sw could be added to turn the lights on when doors are closed if needed.

This or next weekend ill put some time into playing around under the dash.

I got the timer modules today, and hopefully the relays on sat from jaycar.

Relays for switching the lights will be part 1, once happy I'll play with delay off timers.
 
For what I see in the print, the dome lights have a + feed with pwn signals, not a switch wire in the pillar connector.

Gunna be easier to tap into puddle lights for footwell/door pockets.
Not as fancy as dome light switching, but easier.
And a sep push button sw could be added to turn the lights on when doors are closed if needed.

This or next weekend ill put some time into playing around under the dash.

I got the timer modules today, and hopefully the relays on sat from jaycar.

Relays for switching the lights will be part 1, once happy I'll play with delay off timers.
For what I see in the print, the dome lights have a + feed with pwn signals, not a switch wire in the pillar connector.

Gunna be easier to tap into puddle lights for footwell/door pockets.
Not as fancy as dome light switching, but easier.
And a sep push button sw could be added to turn the lights on when doors are closed if needed.

This or next weekend ill put some time into playing around under the dash.

I got the timer modules today, and hopefully the relays on sat from jaycar.

Relays for switching the lights will be part 1, once happy I'll play with delay off timers.
Service manual 1710 (harnesses) under "headliner", you can see that both front & rear overhead consoles harnesses run down to left-side A pillar inside of where the outside repeater / camera is. For this though the doc is for UK RHD vehicles, there might be a chance of it being on the right-side A pillar. That aside, seems like that would be the place I'd test/tap into instead of the overhead areas (providing the wire colours don't change through different connectors). One is shorter distance and two, serviceability would be better.

Hahaa, absolutely agree this should be a separate upgradable money grabber for Elon&gang. Surely this would deter us from spending time reading up materials and trying to figure out the cheap-arse way out.
 
So my setup is pretty simple. But a difficult task with respect to labor.

First Attempt:
Parts/Tools: 18 AWG wire, Crimper tool, 18 AWG Posi-Taps, and T-Tap assortment kit.

Safety:
Although not necessary, but good practice to do when working with electricity - Pop frunk, and disconnect negative terminal from 12v battery.

Process:
I took apart my center console to gain access to the 12v cig lighter. tapping the positive terminal on the cig lighter using the yellow t-tap and blue butt connectors, then feeding the wire down the center console where the air filter meets, I have the two wires split (the same wire where I tapped the positive current flow of the cig lighter.) I used both ends of the split wire to power the passenger and driver footwell lights. The wiring diagram is very simple for the positive terminals on the foot lights. Whichever wire isn’t black, it’s the positive terminal. Mixing the polarity is quite impossible.

Result from attempt #1:
Well, once I seated the negative terminal on the 12v battery again, the lights turned on. A successful DIY for this project. At least in theory. But not the best method in practicality. This setup works well, but the lights only ever turn off if sentry mode isn’t off and isn’t keeping the car awake. The lights only ever turn off if the car enters a deep sleep which is also when the 12v cig lighter turns off and since we’re running the lights off the cig lighter, that will turn off too. But because my OCD wants everything to work perfectly in a practical sense, I wanted the lights to turn off as soon as I exit the vehicle.

Method/Attempt 2 (Practical Method):
Parts/Tools:
Same tools used in attempt #1, but this time, we’re going to be adding a SS relay. You can find a solid state relay on amazon for around $10-15. The one I used for this is: Relay Used in this project

Process: Again we’re going to go back to the center console here and to the 12v cig lighter. Instead of powering the foot lights with the cig lighter, well be using the cig lighter to power the relay. But why use a relay? Because the aim of this attempt is to have the car turn off the lights as soon as I exit the vehicle, then on when I enter. On the relay, there is a signal input that lights up when a small voltage is applied to that signal input on the relay. We need to figure out which wire to use as the signal input so the relay can turn on/off the footwell lights. The best signal wire I could find was a well hidden wire in the rear vents behind the center console. The cover for the rear vents comes off very easily just pry the upper corners of the rear vents with your hands while the center arm rest is pulled up. It should pop right off. There’s only one wire in the rear vents and depending on the year or build date of your model, it will be taped up with blue tape. Undo the tape and you’ll now see two wires. The color of the wire you want to tap is the tiny brown wire located above the rear air vent outlet. Give yourself room to properly tap this signal wire, and don’t be afraid to pull it out for a better look. Once you’re comfortable with tapping this wire, use the posi-taps to tap the brown signal wire and use the 18 awg wire to wire this across the trim panels down towards your relay. Attach the signal wire to the relay. (Make sure you look at the relay design specifications to determine where which wires go where. Next do the same T-Tap that we did to tap the 12v positive terminal but do the negative terminal on the 12v cig lighter so we can properly power this relay. Since we first used the pos terminal on the 12v cig lighter to directly power the footlights, we can snip the positive terminal right before the two wires split and use the single wire we snipped to power the relay. Then ground the relay using the negative terminal of the 12v cig lighter we tapped. Now we should have one open space on the relay. The other end of the positive wire we snipped will go into the one spot on the relay. Reconnect the 12v battery and power everything back up

Results:
If done correctly, you’ll see the relay light turn on and also the footwell lights. You’ll notice the relay turns off and the footwell lights as well, as soon as you close all doors. Last step is to mount the relay somewhere inside the center console near the cabin air filter and 3m tape it to the car’s body to prevent it from moving. Tidy up the wires so they’re not visible and put the center console back together.

Conclusions:
Ive written this comment in the event of those who are confused on how to wire this up. If you’re confused and need a visual, I’d highly recommend watching this video Link for disassembly instructions . This fella does a great job at explaining how to take apart the center console and where to find which wires to tap/etc. The only thing I can complain with this video is that he doesn’t explicitly explain where the wires are located, how to splice, etc. You can transition between this thread and video.

Ask if you have any questions, I’d be more than happy to assist!
 
So my setup is pretty simple. But a difficult task with respect to labor.

First Attempt:
Parts/Tools: 18 AWG wire, Crimper tool, 18 AWG Posi-Taps, and T-Tap assortment kit.

Safety:
Although not necessary, but good practice to do when working with electricity - Pop frunk, and disconnect negative terminal from 12v battery.

Process:
I took apart my center console to gain access to the 12v cig lighter. tapping the positive terminal on the cig lighter using the yellow t-tap and blue butt connectors, then feeding the wire down the center console where the air filter meets, I have the two wires split (the same wire where I tapped the positive current flow of the cig lighter.) I used both ends of the split wire to power the passenger and driver footwell lights. The wiring diagram is very simple for the positive terminals on the foot lights. Whichever wire isn’t black, it’s the positive terminal. Mixing the polarity is quite impossible.

Result from attempt #1:
Well, once I seated the negative terminal on the 12v battery again, the lights turned on. A successful DIY for this project. At least in theory. But not the best method in practicality. This setup works well, but the lights only ever turn off if sentry mode isn’t off and isn’t keeping the car awake. The lights only ever turn off if the car enters a deep sleep which is also when the 12v cig lighter turns off and since we’re running the lights off the cig lighter, that will turn off too. But because my OCD wants everything to work perfectly in a practical sense, I wanted the lights to turn off as soon as I exit the vehicle.

Method/Attempt 2 (Practical Method):
Parts/Tools:
Same tools used in attempt #1, but this time, we’re going to be adding a SS relay. You can find a solid state relay on amazon for around $10-15. The one I used for this is: Relay Used in this project

Process: Again we’re going to go back to the center console here and to the 12v cig lighter. Instead of powering the foot lights with the cig lighter, well be using the cig lighter to power the relay. But why use a relay? Because the aim of this attempt is to have the car turn off the lights as soon as I exit the vehicle, then on when I enter. On the relay, there is a signal input that lights up when a small voltage is applied to that signal input on the relay. We need to figure out which wire to use as the signal input so the relay can turn on/off the footwell lights. The best signal wire I could find was a well hidden wire in the rear vents behind the center console. The cover for the rear vents comes off very easily just pry the upper corners of the rear vents with your hands while the center arm rest is pulled up. It should pop right off. There’s only one wire in the rear vents and depending on the year or build date of your model, it will be taped up with blue tape. Undo the tape and you’ll now see two wires. The color of the wire you want to tap is the tiny brown wire located above the rear air vent outlet. Give yourself room to properly tap this signal wire, and don’t be afraid to pull it out for a better look. Once you’re comfortable with tapping this wire, use the posi-taps to tap the brown signal wire and use the 18 awg wire to wire this across the trim panels down towards your relay. Attach the signal wire to the relay. (Make sure you look at the relay design specifications to determine where which wires go where. Next do the same T-Tap that we did to tap the 12v positive terminal but do the negative terminal on the 12v cig lighter so we can properly power this relay. Since we first used the pos terminal on the 12v cig lighter to directly power the footlights, we can snip the positive terminal right before the two wires split and use the single wire we snipped to power the relay. Then ground the relay using the negative terminal of the 12v cig lighter we tapped. Now we should have one open space on the relay. The other end of the positive wire we snipped will go into the one spot on the relay. Reconnect the 12v battery and power everything back up

Results:
If done correctly, you’ll see the relay light turn on and also the footwell lights. You’ll notice the relay turns off and the footwell lights as well, as soon as you close all doors. Last step is to mount the relay somewhere inside the center console near the cabin air filter and 3m tape it to the car’s body to prevent it from moving. Tidy up the wires so they’re not visible and put the center console back together.

Conclusions:
Ive written this comment in the event of those who are confused on how to wire this up. If you’re confused and need a visual, I’d highly recommend watching this video Link for disassembly instructions . This fella does a great job at explaining how to take apart the center console and where to find which wires to tap/etc. The only thing I can complain with this video is that he doesn’t explicitly explain where the wires are located, how to splice, etc. You can transition between this thread and video.

Ask if you have any questions, I’d be more than happy to assist!

This sounds like a pretty good answer, I was prob going to end up tapping into cig wires anyway, but was going to see if the cig wires passed through a connector under the dash.
I'll have to check it out. With a delay circuit, I could have the well lights stay on for 5 sec or so after the doors close, and ould add a manual push button next to the cig outlet, any idea what this wire was ment for?
 
This sounds like a pretty good answer, I was prob going to end up tapping into cig wires anyway, but was going to see if the cig wires passed through a connector under the dash.
I'll have to check it out. With a delay circuit, I could have the well lights stay on for 5 sec or so after the doors close, and ould add a manual push button next to the cig outlet, any idea what this wire was ment for?
Are you talking about the signal wire that communicates with the car to determine whether the door/occupancy is closed or open?
 
So my setup is pretty simple. But a difficult task with respect to labor.

First Attempt:
Parts/Tools: 18 AWG wire, Crimper tool, 18 AWG Posi-Taps, and T-Tap assortment kit.

Safety:
Although not necessary, but good practice to do when working with electricity - Pop frunk, and disconnect negative terminal from 12v battery.

Process:
I took apart my center console to gain access to the 12v cig lighter. tapping the positive terminal on the cig lighter using the yellow t-tap and blue butt connectors, then feeding the wire down the center console where the air filter meets, I have the two wires split (the same wire where I tapped the positive current flow of the cig lighter.) I used both ends of the split wire to power the passenger and driver footwell lights. The wiring diagram is very simple for the positive terminals on the foot lights. Whichever wire isn’t black, it’s the positive terminal. Mixing the polarity is quite impossible.

Result from attempt #1:
Well, once I seated the negative terminal on the 12v battery again, the lights turned on. A successful DIY for this project. At least in theory. But not the best method in practicality. This setup works well, but the lights only ever turn off if sentry mode isn’t off and isn’t keeping the car awake. The lights only ever turn off if the car enters a deep sleep which is also when the 12v cig lighter turns off and since we’re running the lights off the cig lighter, that will turn off too. But because my OCD wants everything to work perfectly in a practical sense, I wanted the lights to turn off as soon as I exit the vehicle.

Method/Attempt 2 (Practical Method):
Parts/Tools:
Same tools used in attempt #1, but this time, we’re going to be adding a SS relay. You can find a solid state relay on amazon for around $10-15. The one I used for this is: Relay Used in this project

Process: Again we’re going to go back to the center console here and to the 12v cig lighter. Instead of powering the foot lights with the cig lighter, well be using the cig lighter to power the relay. But why use a relay? Because the aim of this attempt is to have the car turn off the lights as soon as I exit the vehicle, then on when I enter. On the relay, there is a signal input that lights up when a small voltage is applied to that signal input on the relay. We need to figure out which wire to use as the signal input so the relay can turn on/off the footwell lights. The best signal wire I could find was a well hidden wire in the rear vents behind the center console. The cover for the rear vents comes off very easily just pry the upper corners of the rear vents with your hands while the center arm rest is pulled up. It should pop right off. There’s only one wire in the rear vents and depending on the year or build date of your model, it will be taped up with blue tape. Undo the tape and you’ll now see two wires. The color of the wire you want to tap is the tiny brown wire located above the rear air vent outlet. Give yourself room to properly tap this signal wire, and don’t be afraid to pull it out for a better look. Once you’re comfortable with tapping this wire, use the posi-taps to tap the brown signal wire and use the 18 awg wire to wire this across the trim panels down towards your relay. Attach the signal wire to the relay. (Make sure you look at the relay design specifications to determine where which wires go where. Next do the same T-Tap that we did to tap the 12v positive terminal but do the negative terminal on the 12v cig lighter so we can properly power this relay. Since we first used the pos terminal on the 12v cig lighter to directly power the footlights, we can snip the positive terminal right before the two wires split and use the single wire we snipped to power the relay. Then ground the relay using the negative terminal of the 12v cig lighter we tapped. Now we should have one open space on the relay. The other end of the positive wire we snipped will go into the one spot on the relay. Reconnect the 12v battery and power everything back up

Results:
If done correctly, you’ll see the relay light turn on and also the footwell lights. You’ll notice the relay turns off and the footwell lights as well, as soon as you close all doors. Last step is to mount the relay somewhere inside the center console near the cabin air filter and 3m tape it to the car’s body to prevent it from moving. Tidy up the wires so they’re not visible and put the center console back together.

Conclusions:
Ive written this comment in the event of those who are confused on how to wire this up. If you’re confused and need a visual, I’d highly recommend watching this video Link for disassembly instructions . This fella does a great job at explaining how to take apart the center console and where to find which wires to tap/etc. The only thing I can complain with this video is that he doesn’t explicitly explain where the wires are located, how to splice, etc. You can transition between this thread and video.

Ask if you have any questions, I’d be more than happy to assist!

I can't find the wire you mention in the console rear vent surround.
The only wires I could see are the usb and console lid light switch wires.
(M3 RWD 2022)
 
No I have not, I guess no one on here has tried.
If I do add them, it will have to be via a separate switch or a delay off timer from the puddle lights.
Please let me know if you end up getting them working/added.
I ran a wire to one of the dome lights. Small low current wire is OK, you are only sensing when the dome light is lit. So whenever it is lit, even if you turn it on manually, your lights will come on.
Run the wire down the A pillar. I used a small solid state relay to handle the load, and went ahead and ran wires to the lights (High Brightness Abstract Ocean refits) individually, substituting the output of the relay for the supply line from the wiring harness.
(Initially I thought about just powering up the supply bus on the original wiring harness, but my sporting blood turned to urine, as I was concerned that the current monitoring system might throw an exception if it sensed a load on what it thought was not enabled. It WAS my first Tesla, after all).
I picked up the 12V supply through an inline fuse all the way back to the 12V battery. The current drain is so minimal actually, that it doesn't upset anything.
So now, any time the overhead light comes on, the courtesy lights come on, including in the door pockets. Wiring was a little tedious, but it works wel. You can get a solid state relay, project box, etc from Micro Center, Digi Key, or your favorite purveyor of electronic goodies. Or even an auto parts store.
 
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I ran a wire to one of the dome lights. Small low current wire is OK, you are only sensing when the dome light is lit. So whenever it is lit, even if you turn it on manually, your lights will come on.
Run the wire down the A pillar. I used a small solid state relay to handle the load, and went ahead and ran wires to the lights (High Brightness Abstract Ocean refits) individually, substituting the output of the relay for the supply line from the wiring harness.
(Initially I thought about just powering up the supply bus on the original wiring harness, but my sporting blood turned to urine, as I was concerned that the current monitoring system might throw an exception if it sensed a load on what it thought was not enabled. It WAS my first Tesla, after all).
I picked up the 12V supply through an inline fuse all the way back to the 12V battery. The current drain is so minimal actually, that it doesn't upset anything.
So now, any time the overhead light comes on, the courtesy lights come on, including in the door pockets. Wiring was a little tedious, but it works wel. You can get a solid state relay, project box, etc from Micro Center, Digi Key, or your favorite purveyor of electronic goodies. Or even an auto parts store.
when you mentioned running a wire to one of the dome lights - did you mean a wire directly behind the overhead console where the hazard button and two lights live? Or along the left side A pillar harness/connector point?
 
when you mentioned running a wire to one of the dome lights - did you mean a wire directly behind the overhead console where the hazard button and two lights live? Or along the left side A pillar harness/connector point?
Interested as well.
For what I understand in the wiring diagram the pillar/under dash connector has an unwatched + and pwm signals to the overhead/hazard module, not sure tapping into pwm signals is possible.
So I'm guessing it means running wires from the overhead module, I've been lazy lately and haven't looked further in the car.