This is the end of the roof liner harness in the passenger A pillar. I thought this was the same harness that powers the dome lights but I can't seem to find a switched line and the colours don't line up. I guess I'm going to have to go your way
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Ernest H
Member
DIY harness day last week. Top left connector (red black pair for illustration) to power and negative. Connector under SSR has a red wire (for illustration) is my trigger from x288. Then the other four T10 holders to run under the footwell. 
Finished by testing for continuity before felt-wrapped the entire harness.
Finished by testing for continuity before felt-wrapped the entire harness.
What you can try is to unplug the the connector and test the voltage on the brown output pin of the can bus and to prevent a floating ground, make sure you connect ground on the ammeter to the same ground in the can bus. Try opening and closing the door to see if you get a CAN high (~2-7v) when door is opened and low when all doors are closed, low (~0v).
Edit: If you’re testing while sitting in the car with the doors closed and/or opened, the correct wire should remain high (on state, aprox ~2-7v). and go to a low state when occupancy is no longer detected and all doors are closed (off state, aprox ~0v).
Low and high voltage is different on a can bus compared to a digital circuit.
I doubt a CAN low would be represented as 0v, it was just an example. so with that being said, I would be on the look out to see what makes the voltage on the output pin to drop a voltage or two to figure out what a CAN low value would represent on the CAN bus.
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Ernest H
Member
To report back - all is working now based on my DIY harness.
(1) the airy space I was talking about between the driver and passenger under the centre console. Once you pop both sides' kick panel there is a massive area to hold all the wiring and SSR.
(2) the felt-taped harness. moving into location.
(3) all working -
(4) I've mounted the front footwell LED holder to the removable side kick panel which is working rather well. Have not decided where to mount the rear ones and hence, just left the wiring and LED lead on the carpet for now. Will have a further look on the weekend and see how to best mount that. Otherwise all is working quite well.
Connections:
- cigarette 15.5v connector +ve and -ve, cut and spliced into separator connector (2 pins), then added a 50cm extension with inline fuse holder on +ve, so that I can run the extension to either front of centre console or the rear air vent area. The fuse holder and extension connection are accessible from the USB panel pop-out inside front centre console, and will serve as the easily accessible service area.
- rear dome light x288 connector, pin 3 or 4 (depending on whether you want trigger to be left or right light). fished a single wire from across rear dome towards left side of vehicle, then fish wire from overhead above seatbelt (panel removed), and then along top left side head area (away from curtain airbag), then down A-pillar, around the blue connector near VCLeft, then under left side floor carpet between the hard styrofoam, and then into the airy space I shown above.
- the DIY harness is pretty simple and should be self-explanatory. You can see that I've used 2-pin connectors, 3-pins, 4-pins, 6-pins, so that I can easily trace and differentiate connection points. And each LED holder has their own connector for serviceability.
(1) the airy space I was talking about between the driver and passenger under the centre console. Once you pop both sides' kick panel there is a massive area to hold all the wiring and SSR.
(2) the felt-taped harness. moving into location.
(3) all working -
(4) I've mounted the front footwell LED holder to the removable side kick panel which is working rather well. Have not decided where to mount the rear ones and hence, just left the wiring and LED lead on the carpet for now. Will have a further look on the weekend and see how to best mount that. Otherwise all is working quite well.
Connections:
- cigarette 15.5v connector +ve and -ve, cut and spliced into separator connector (2 pins), then added a 50cm extension with inline fuse holder on +ve, so that I can run the extension to either front of centre console or the rear air vent area. The fuse holder and extension connection are accessible from the USB panel pop-out inside front centre console, and will serve as the easily accessible service area.
- rear dome light x288 connector, pin 3 or 4 (depending on whether you want trigger to be left or right light). fished a single wire from across rear dome towards left side of vehicle, then fish wire from overhead above seatbelt (panel removed), and then along top left side head area (away from curtain airbag), then down A-pillar, around the blue connector near VCLeft, then under left side floor carpet between the hard styrofoam, and then into the airy space I shown above.
- the DIY harness is pretty simple and should be self-explanatory. You can see that I've used 2-pin connectors, 3-pins, 4-pins, 6-pins, so that I can easily trace and differentiate connection points. And each LED holder has their own connector for serviceability.
Ernest H
Member
Night view of the footwell lights. Am thinking of changing out the 4 LEDs to a warm white or even an amber, since our dome lights are yellowish. But doubt I could get the exact same temperature as dome's. Oh well, still a win but took a long time. Learnt a lot though.
nutsofamily
Member
Been following now confused. Can you send ma a write up? Id be happy to paypal you some coffee. Did you tap dome lights o they turn off when door closed? Are they on when inside car? Ive seen one with video and relay to that rear brown wire but he installed a separate switch inline to turn them off.
Ernest H
Member
ha haa... I'm a coffee roaster by trade but always happy to try other coffees around the world.
Please read from post #82 to #85. Have done the write-ups of how to create the harness and wiring route. let me know if you need more info. happy to share.
nutsofamily
Member
Lol thanks. So the write will allow the footwell to work and turn off when door closed AND u are inside?ha haa... I'm a coffee roaster by trade but always happy to try other coffees around the world.
Please read from post #82 to #85. Have done the write-ups of how to create the harness and wiring route. let me know if you need more info. happy to share.
Ernest H
Member
yes, so I ran it off the left rear dome light as trigger and get my power from 15V ciggy wires. Whenever the left rear dome light comes on (manually, or via door) it energizes the SSR to power up the four LEDs. When the left rear dome light is off - that de-energizes the SSR and hence off. Think of it as an extension to the dome light regardless of the situation. When you lock car light dome light will go off after a while. When you unlock car dome light will go on immediately. when you're in the car after closing door dome light would go off after timer expires.
nutsofamily
Member
No soft fuse trips at all?yes, so I ran it off the left rear dome light as trigger and get my power from 15V ciggy wires. Whenever the left rear dome light comes on (manually, or via door) it energizes the SSR to power up the four LEDs. When the left rear dome light is off - that de-energizes the SSR and hence off. Think of it as an extension to the dome light regardless of the situation. When you lock car light dome light will go off after a while. When you unlock car dome light will go on immediately. when you're in the car after closing door dome light would go off after timer expires.
nutsofamily
Member
Do you have an itemized parts list? The link for amazon doesn't seem to work. (Relay)yes, so I ran it off the left rear dome light as trigger and get my power from 15V ciggy wires. Whenever the left rear dome light comes on (manually, or via door) it energizes the SSR to power up the four LEDs. When the left rear dome light is off - that de-energizes the SSR and hence off. Think of it as an extension to the dome light regardless of the situation. When you lock car light dome light will go off after a while. When you unlock car dome light will go on immediately. when you're in the car after closing door dome light would go off after timer expires.
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Ernest H
Member
nope and it shouldn't as long as you cut or tap your wires right and you're using low amp LEDs
nutsofamily
Member
Thanks. An someone please link me the proper relay. That’s the thing I’m not sure of. The rest I can muddle. Aside note I installed the Hansshow sequential fog led on standard range and they are awesome.
Ernest H
Member
the only thing i purchased off aliexpress was the SSR. Make sure it is DC control DC, most are rated 3-32VDC. the exact item i bought from doesn't exist anymore but this is a similar one. https://www.aliexpress.com/item/100....order_list.order_list_main.71.21ef1802WS4JWP
nutsofamily
Member
nutsofamily
Member
Would this work?
CG Solid State Relay SSR-40DD DC to DC Input 3-32VDC To Output 5-240VDC 40A Single Phase Plastic Cover… https://a.co/d/63iCeAc
Ernest H
Member
yeah, looks right. i think mine was rated for 25A or 40A. need to look. if you haven't used SSR before, it gets hot when it is continually energized (like if you have your dome light on all the time. perhaps wise to get the heat sink as well.
nutsofamily
Member
nutsofamily
Member
Im so sorry for all questions: what connectors are you using? Where did you get them from to go into harness?
nutsofamily
Member
Hi if anyone can supply me
With a diagram and materials I’ll PayPal them for their trouble. Thanks and so very much appreciated in advance.
With a diagram and materials I’ll PayPal them for their trouble. Thanks and so very much appreciated in advance.
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