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Ingenext Boost Modules [aftermarket]

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You have the LR AWD w/boost? Just clarifying. This makes me feel better but it's also somewhat hard for me to believe. I had an S7 w/APR tune, and with launch control it pulled VERY hard...and the RS7 is a good bit faster than that. I don't think I ever lost a race.

I also have the LR AWD with boost, but I can't even picture pulling away on my S7 with the tune, much less an RS7!

Again, this is very hard to believe, considering even an older (2016) RS7 is running 0-60 in 3.2 secs...
If I could upload the video I could. You do know grabbing those times are in perfect conditions but for Tesla’s it’s easy to stay within a tenth of a second easily with every launch.
 
If I could upload the video I could. You do know grabbing those times are in perfect conditions but for Tesla’s it’s easy to stay within a tenth of a second easily with every launch.

Exactly. My C7Z06/Z07 was “much faster” than my boosted AWD and yet my fastest 0-60 time for that car never touched my slowest 0-60 time for this car. 0-100 on the other hand. lol

The C7Z is “2.95 to 60” and AWD boosted is “3.9”

Both are very false. :)
 
Exactly. My C7Z06/Z07 was “much faster” than my boosted AWD and yet my fastest 0-60 time for that car never touched my slowest 0-60 time for this car. 0-100 on the other hand. lol

The C7Z is “2.95 to 60” and AWD boosted is “3.9”

Both are very false. :)

Yeah I guess you guys are right - it really took a LOT to get the tires to grab under any conditions in my S7 when I launched, even though it was AWD. When they did hook it was pretty violent though.

This must be a matter of perception & memory because thinking back, the S7 just felt faster. I wish I had used an app to verify the 0-60, but I'm pretty positive it was comfortably under 4secs. I will track a few 0-60 runs tomorrow and hopefully I can get in the 3.7s range, which will make me feel better knowing at least the car is doing what it's supposed to do!
 
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But with an APR tune they can run in the 10s...

The two cars aren’t in the same class so probably best to leave the RS7 comparison to the Model S
We can talk about horsepower, speed, etc all we want but what was it that everyone says:

speed, cheap, reliable. You can only pick 2 and you have to give up the 3rd. Well in this case...Tesla gives you all 3. It is the cheapest car for the speed and super reliable.
 
But with an APR tune they can run in the 10s...

The two cars aren’t in the same class so probably best to leave the RS7 comparison to the Model S

Ugh...What's worse than running an ICE car? Running an ICE car with an aftermarket performance tune requiring special fuels. And increased maintenance and emissions. Here's what APR has to say about fuels for their tunes:

APR Fuel Guide
When switching from a lower octane fuel to a higher octane fuel, special care must be taken to ensure the safety of the motor. This is most critical when switching from a lower octane to Ethanol or Race Fuel. Running Ethanol and Race Fuel maps with lower quality fuel can and will destroy your spark plugs and potentially your engine. Please follow these instructions when switching fuel:


  • Drain the gas tank of all fuel.
  • Let the engine idle and stall out.
  • Fill the tank with the higher octane fuel.
  • Drive for 15 miles, lightly. Lower octane fuel may still be in the fuel lines, especially on dual injection vehicles. If switching to Ethanol, you may get a fault for fuel trims out of range. When this occurs, clear the fault code, switch to the ethanol map, and continue driving lightly.
  • Switch to the higher octane map and drive lightly for 5 miles before going wide open throttle.
  • If you detect any hesitation, timing pull, audible knock, or other indications something is not right, let off the throttle immediately. You may still have lower quality fuel in the lines. Repeat the steps above.

Octanes and Programs:

Never use a octane lower than what's prescribed by the tune. For example, do not use 91 Octane (R+M)/2 with a 93 Octane (R+M)/2 tune. You may use a higher octane than prescribed by the tune. For example, running 93 Octane (R+M)/2 on a 91 Octane (R+M)/2 program is fine, and in some cases may offer a bump in performance.


Race Fuel Info:

APR only recommends using Sunoco GT260 for 100 Octane (R+M)/2 tunes and Sunoco GT260+ for 104 Octane (R+M)/2 tunes. Unless specified otherwise, only use types of fuels as other fuels may not be compatible.


Ethanol Info:

Ethanol content varies dramatically. A pump labeled for E85 may have content from 85% all the way down to 51% depending on the location and season in the USA. This can vary outside the USA as well depending on ethanol laws. Most non-flex fuel E85 max only have an operating range of E60-E85. Always confirm the operating rage on our product pages or by contacting APR. Do not use ethanol content lower or higher than specified for the map. If Ethanol content is too low, the engine may knock, and you may experience fuel trim issues. If the Ethanol content is too high, you may experience fuel trim issues, and you may tax the fueling system, causing lean conditions. Please note, APR's tunes for regular gasoline are not designed for ethanol. However, ethanol is commonly found at the pump mixed with gasoline. So long as the fuel trims are not maxed, and the fueling system is not maxed out, this is typically ok unless specified otherwise.


Octane Booster:

Do not use octane booster. It may do nothing at all, or it may cause other problems.


Leaded Fuel:

Do not use leaded fuel. It will destroy your oxygen sensors.


Water / Methanol:

Water / Methanol may have adverse effects, and potentially disastrous effects when used on higher octane maps with lower octane fuel. Usage is up to the end user's discretion.


Nitrous Oxide:

Nitrous Oxide may have adverse effects, and potentially disastrous effects. Usage is up to the end user's discretion.


Accidental low quality fuel:

If you accidentally use lower quality fuel than prescribed by the tune, draining the tank is recommended. In the case where you're running a higher pump fuel program, such as 93 Octane (R+M)/2, and only 91 Octane (R+M)/2 is available, you can continue driving so long as you take extra precaution. Do not drive the car hard. If the engine is boosted, stay out of boost. Keep IAT low. Don't lug out the engine, and only use light throttle input. Essentially, be careful. If you detect knock, don't continue driving.


Rough AKI to RON Conversion Guide:

This guide is for a rough estimate only. Many factors will contribute:


  • 87 AKI = 91 RON
  • 91 AKI = 93 RON
  • 93 AKI = 98 RON
  • 100 AKI = 104 RON
  • 104 AKI = 108 RON

Terminology:

E in E85 stand for Ethanol, and 85% stands for the percentage of Ethanol in the fuel. North American Region (NAR) uses the Anti-Knock Index (AKI), (RON+MON)/2, or (R+M)/2 when describing octane. In the Rest of the World (ROW), RON is used when describing octane. RON is the Research Octane Number and MON is the Motor Octane Number.

Sounds pretty involved to make the switch. I think I'll stick to clean and simple electrics for my daily driver!
 
Yeah I believe him that he won (why lie?), but the RS7 maybe had a bad launch. And there's no way they had an APR tune, which catapults the RS7 to 60 in about 3.1secs.

The RS7 needs an aftermarket tune and more expensive gasoline just to do what my bone stock Model 3 does? Does it cost more to buy too? Or just to own and operate?
 
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Ugh...What's worse than running an ICE car? Running an ICE car with an aftermarket performance tune requiring special fuels. And increased maintenance and emissions. Here's what APR has to say about fuels for their tunes!

I agree - there's more than just the numbers. Repeatability of times in multiple conditions (dry, wet, etc) is a big plus for Tesla. Lack of warranty concerns, more frequent oil changes and more expensive gasoline are certainly benefits. I'm a car guy, so I'm patiently waiting the day I can purchase an s2000 and supercharge it. I realize I'm putting myself in the RS7 bucket, but for me, there's just something special about the driving experience of a high revving manual transmission car that can't be found in Tesla. I'd argue the old muscle car guys would likely say the same.
 
You guys are confusing the S7 with RS7...the S7 with APR tune is comparable to the LR AWD+ (boost), whereas the RS7 with the APR tune is more comparable to the P, or a fast model S (P90D).

And you don't have to put special gas - I always used 93 octane in my S7 and still got about 120 hp and 100 ft•lb torque. I had it dyno'd at the shop to verify APR's claims because honestly it was very hard to believe! And it only cost $1600 at the time, which was about 4 years ago.
 
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I agree - there's more than just the numbers. Repeatability of times in multiple conditions (dry, wet, etc) is a big plus for Tesla. Lack of warranty concerns, more frequent oil changes and more expensive gasoline are certainly benefits. I'm a car guy, so I'm patiently waiting the day I can purchase an s2000 and supercharge it. I realize I'm putting myself in the RS7 bucket, but for me, there's just something special about the driving experience of a high revving manual transmission car that can't be found in Tesla. I'd argue the old muscle car guys would likely say the same.
There are definitely times that I miss having a manual transmission with a big dumb engine in the front. I was close to getting an M3 before I picked the P3. I'm hoping the Roadster 2 I wind up getting at some point will cure me of that though. ;)
 
There are definitely times that I miss having a manual transmission with a big dumb engine in the front. I was close to getting an M3 before I picked the P3. I'm hoping the Roadster 2 I wind up getting at some point will cure me of that though. ;)
There’s honestly nothing wrong with loving both an electric and ice car. Can you eat a heathly everyday? Sure but you’ll always want something bad like friend food or soda. Tesla’s are not the end all be all cars.

Also for those who posted about tunes and fuel...you have to remember yeah you can achieve more hp but you have to run different fuel lines, different plugs, remember to switch maps, And constantly monitor you e85/gas content whenever you switch. And then there’s oil. A fresh oil change in a turbo car feels like heaven but you tend to change it more...every 1500-2000 miles and you have to run synthetic. That stuff comes out sharpie color black. To me that’s a hassle.

I rather lose 70mph plus everyday to all cars and win 0-60 every time. Not the opposite but that’s just me. Zero lag is just way more fun and addicting.
 
There’s honestly nothing wrong with loving both an electric and ice car. Can you eat a heathly everyday? Sure but you’ll always want something bad like friend food or soda. Tesla’s are not the end all be all cars.

...

I rather lose 70mph plus everyday to all cars and win 0-60 every time. Not the opposite but that’s just me. Zero lag is just way more fun and addicting.
Seriously I hate the all-or-nothing thinking that we tend to get ourselves into - I don't know if it's a cultural thing or what. Wife asked me yesterday "do you prefer the mountains or the beach?" Why do I have to pick one? We live in the city. I like both. I also like cars. I like my Tesla. I miss my Miata. I enjoy driving other ICE cars. Someday, I hope to have the time/patience/space/money for a crazy sports car w/ a manual transmission.

And for all this talk of losing out at the top end... I've yet to really experience it all that much in my P3D. It still pulls hard into the lower-triple-digits, and I've yet to even come close to losing a race... even at low SOC, from a roll. So, I think we're alright. My personal take on it is that we're just spoiled with such brutal low-end launches that we expect the same at higher speeds. But that's not the case in any car. Look at your speedo, put your foot down @ 80 MPH, and see how quickly you hit 110. Not sluggish by any measure IMO.
 
Seriously I hate the all-or-nothing thinking that we tend to get ourselves into - I don't know if it's a cultural thing or what. Wife asked me yesterday "do you prefer the mountains or the beach?" Why do I have to pick one? We live in the city. I like both. I also like cars. I like my Tesla. I miss my Miata. I enjoy driving other ICE cars. Someday, I hope to have the time/patience/space/money for a crazy sports car w/ a manual transmission.

And for all this talk of losing out at the top end... I've yet to really experience it all that much in my P3D. It still pulls hard into the lower-triple-digits, and I've yet to even come close to losing a race... even at low SOC, from a roll. So, I think we're alright. My personal take on it is that we're just spoiled with such brutal low-end launches that we expect the same at higher speeds. But that's not the case in any car. Look at your speedo, put your foot down @ 80 MPH, and see how quickly you hit 110. Not sluggish by any measure IMO.
I was never inferring this car is slow after 70 at all but with gears on an ICE car...they have an advantage. For once I never thought my car was “slow” but everyone likes to measure...is the race 0-60? 0-100? 1/8th mile? 1/4 mile? Etc.

It’s been 1.5 years I’ve had my car and the smiles never goes away or have I ever worried the car would never perform. Unlike an ICE car...altitude, weather, fluids impact performance. I don’t think there’s anything that actually impacts Tesla “performance”. I know weather impacts energy “consumption”.
 
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I was never inferring this car is slow after 70 at all but with gears on an ICE car...they have an advantage. For once I never thought my car was “slow” but everyone likes to measure...is the race 0-60? 0-100? 1/8th mile? 1/4 mile? Etc.

It’s been 1.5 years I’ve had my car and the smiles never goes away or have I ever worried the car would never perform. Unlike an ICE car...altitude, weather, fluids impact performance. I don’t think there’s anything that actually impacts Tesla “performance”. I know weather impacts energy “consumption”.
Word. And I bet in the next 8 - 10 years... they'll have figured out that "problem," too.
 
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