Aftermarket Wheels on Model 3

[jazs]

Hi all,

I ordered 20x9 rims. Wondering if anyone has run a square setup with 255/35/20 tires. Not planning to lower. Also, did high tires would you choose assuming I am getting the continental tires for $300 more total:

1) continental contisportcontact 5 235/35/20
2) Firestone Firehawk Indy 500 255/35/20

Thanks!

 

[DNorris89]

Can't wait to see those bad boys!

18s with fatty tires would've been nice too

that would have been ideal but the lug holes aren't large enough on the 18s and 19s.

 

[Knightshade]

Thank you for answer!
One more question:
Does the car have a power distribution to the front axle and to the rear? 35:65 or what is it?

Each axle has its own motor, they're not physically connected to each other in any way.

Each motor puts out however much power the computer thinks it needs at any time.

 

[e-FTW]

Each axle has its own motor, they're not physically connected to each other in any way.

Each motor puts out however much power the computer thinks it needs at any time.

Correct. This is a “through the road” all-wheel drive system. It dynamically adjust power at each axle as the conditions change.

 

[EVS Motors]

More VFF-109 goodness on a color shifting Model 3. Shown in Carbon Graphite.
1x Carbon Graphite set in stock, 3x in Zara Gray. PM me for sale price while supplies last.

 

[e-FTW]

More VFF-109 goodness on a color shifting Model 3. Shown in Carbon Graphite.
1x Carbon Graphite set in stock, 3x in Zara Gray. PM me for sale price while supplies last.

View attachment 393221 View attachment 393222 View attachment 393223 View attachment 393224 View attachment 393225 View attachment 393226 View attachment 393227 View attachment 393228 View attachment 393229 View attachment 393230

Please. Stop. Must. Resist...

(need 19” for potholes)

 

[maglianera]

More VFF-109 goodness on a color shifting Model 3. Shown in Carbon Graphite.
1x Carbon Graphite set in stock, 3x in Zara Gray. PM me for sale price while supplies last.

View attachment 393221 View attachment 393222 View attachment 393223 View attachment 393224 View attachment 393225 View attachment 393226 View attachment 393227 View attachment 393228 View attachment 393229 View attachment 393230

Amazing! What color/brand is that wrap? I love the subtle shade-shift.

 

[EVS Motors]

Amazing! What color/brand is that wrap? I love the subtle shade-shift.

Not sure, we personally didn't work on the wrap.

 

[Ugene]

Looking at 20" wheel choices I see VS forged has a reasonable price for a forged wheel. However, I wonder if I'd be OK for street driving my P3D+ on summer tires with flow forged wheels that nowadays supposedly are just about 3 lb heavier each compared to VS forged and are $1K cheaper for a set of 4.

Would for example RF SERIES – Vertini Wheels or SF SERIES – Stance Wheels (founders of VS Forged as I understand) work reliably or would I have to worry too much about damaging them under Model 3 weight?
I am not convinced that lower end forged wheels such as VS Forged are immune to damage either.
One thing with flow forged wheels of the above brand is that they are very limited in 20x8.5 but I could go up to 20x9 if needed.

What are the most reliable aftermarket brands for 20" wheels for Model 3? I used Enkei on my previous car but they don't seem to make 20".

Thank you in advance!

 

[N54TT]

@N54TT,

Meant to ask you have you noticed much difference at all in your efficiency between the Stock OEM 20” Sports and the new rims?

Ski

I've got the same setup but with slightly heavier vorsteiner Wheels instead of vs forged. I've been checking Watt hours per mile and it's probably just about 5 to 10 Watt hours per mile more but of course that could be due to a more enthusiastic driving Style. The 275 / 30s are of course pretty chunky and I suspect their drag is significantly more while their rolling resistance is also probably greater but not by that much.

The big surprise is that the ride is no worse and might even be slightly smoother which is bizarre. And they're no noisier either.

Still need to log more miles to be certain and I only put 900 miles on the stock 20’s. I believe I was getting low 300’s wh/mile with stock setup. So far with this setup I’m about 308-310 wh/mile. At this point I’d assume the same 5-10 wh/mile increase over the stock 20’s as dfwatt. It’s a bigger contact patch and less aero(open face and more aggressive stance) than the stock 20’s. Weight I don’t think has much effect on highway efficiency as it does around town. If efficiency is a concern stay closer to stock specs(width and offset).

 

[ummagawd]

searched this and couldn't find a concrete answer...

aerodynamics, weight penalties, and every logical reason as to NOT do it ASIDE... I would like to know where a 20x10 wheel up front will hit (if it does). I tried some calculations and am comfortable with how much a x10 wheel could poke out... but what about the inner part of the wheel on a P3D+?

I know MP did x10 and said it hit fender... but what was the offset (does anyone know)?

Is there an offset on a x10 that will work for the front?

Thanks

 

[dfwatt]

searched this and couldn't find a concrete answer...

aerodynamics, weight penalties, and every logical reason as to NOT do it ASIDE... I would like to know where a 20x10 wheel up front will hit (if it does). I tried some calculations and am comfortable with how much a x10 wheel could poke out... but what about the inner part of the wheel on a P3D+?

I know MP did x10 and said it hit fender... but what was the offset (does anyone know)?

Is there an offset on a x10 that will work for the front?

Thanks

Most of the track guys feel that 9.5 in is the max on the front that's really workable. And I believe that's at 35 millimeter offset. It's the front major suspension knuckle that is the limiting factor. You've got tons of room at the rear. Not so at the front. An interesting option is that if you have the performance brakes you can get an aftermarket rotor that obviates the 3 mm lip and moves the wheel outboard about 3 to 4 mm. That might allow an otherwise too tight wheel to be fitted. I'm going to go measure mine which are 9-inch fronts but with aftermarket rotors to see how much room I've got at 38 millimeters offset. As that would tell you what you could Jigger with 9.5 in or even 10 in

 

[ummagawd]

much appreciated!

 

[dfwatt]

much appreciated!

Boy it's tough to measure with any Precision without unmounting a tire and I don't have that option. But I figured conservatively I've got three quarters of an inch between the rim and Central suspension member. This is with 38 offset and about a loss of three or at most 4 mm due to the thicker rotor hat. So call it 35 mm offset effectively if you had performance brakes and stock rotors. I think this means that a 10 inch wheel would fit at 35 mm but I'm not sure about a 275 tire. A 265 is still obviously a seriously Wide Tire. Like I said most of the guys running 265s and tracking the car with 19 inch wheels say that 9.5 is really your safest max wheel width. You could probably drop your offset on a custom-made 10 inch rim, but then this thing is going to show serious poke out.

 

[ummagawd]

Boy it's tough to measure with any Precision without unmounting a tire and I don't have that option. But I figured conservatively I've got three quarters of an inch between the rim and Central suspension member. This is with 38 offset and about a loss of three or at most 4 mm due to the thicker rotor hat. So call it 35 mm offset effectively if you had performance brakes and stock rotors. I think this means that a 10 inch wheel would fit at 35 mm but I'm not sure about a 275 tire. A 265 is still obviously a seriously Wide Tire. Like I said most of the guys running 265s and tracking the car with 19 inch wheels say that 9.5 is really your safest max wheel width. You could probably drop your offset on a custom-made 10 inch rim, but then this thing is going to show serious poke out.

Thanks for the info. So if you've got about .75" (~19mm) inner clearance on a 9" wheel with an effective offset of +35... i can get away with a 10" up to +40 offset (which hopefully reduces the poke), that wheel works out to 18mm less clearance from your setup. I should try and measure my stock setup to see if the approximations are close.

The ONLY reason I want 10 is because anything less than 10" wide won't have the concavity i'm after for the specific wheel i'm looking at. I'm all for the look, I don't track my car, i don't have a long enough commute to worry about being efficient... simply put i just have a certain look i'm after

 

[dfwatt]

Thanks for the info. So if you've got about .75" (~19mm) inner clearance on a 9" wheel with an effective offset of +35... i can get away with a 10" up to +40 offset (which hopefully reduces the poke), that wheel works out to 18mm less clearance from your setup. I should try and measure my stock setup to see if the approximations are close.

The ONLY reason I want 10 is because anything less than 10" wide won't have the concavity i'm after for the specific wheel i'm looking at. I'm all for the look, I don't track my car, i don't have a long enough commute to worry about being efficient... simply put i just have a certain look i'm after

Understood about "The Look!"

But I would not bet that a 40mm offset 10 incher will clear - and the problem may be the tire and not the wheel.

I'd see if you can get a sample wheel, and try that first without a tire - and then you can see fitment both for the wheel clearence, and also where the outer edge of the tire you want is going to sit, given a known section width (for example the 275/30-20 Pilot Sport 4S has a monster section width of 10.9 inches, which has to be accommodated also in terms of the main front suspension knuckle. I think there was some discussion of this whole business early in the thread of max wheel/tire width on the front. So you might search for it. My vague recall is that 35 mm (with performance brakes and no swap of rotors) and a 9.5 inch width was the max anyone had luck with - but I could be mis-remembering that!

 

[pdxev]

Hi thread,

I ordered a new set of wheels and summer tires last week. The installation notes (from Tire Rack) mention "Each hub has a locator bolt that must be removed before installing aftermarket wheels!".

Has anybody installed aftermarket wheels and run into this? I am assuming there is a temporary assembly bolt on the hub that interferes with the wheel sitting flush. I linked a picture below and I believe they are talking about the bolt with green marking, but am really not sure. I just don't want to remove something critical unnecessarily.

https://i.ytimg.com/vi/M6nZEGob-j8/maxresdefault.jpg

 

[pdxev]

Hi thread,

I ordered a new set of wheels and summer tires last week. The installation notes (from Tire Rack) mention "Each hub has a locator bolt that must be removed before installing aftermarket wheels!".

Has anybody installed aftermarket wheels and run into this? I am assuming there is a temporary assembly bolt on the hub that interferes with the wheel sitting flush. I linked a picture below and I believe they are talking about the bolt with green marking, but am really not sure. I just don't want to remove something critical unnecessarily.

https://i.ytimg.com/vi/M6nZEGob-j8/maxresdefault.jpg

I spent more time digging and answered my own question deep inside this video. Thanks anyways!

 

[EVS Motors]

Sold out on the Vorsteiner VFF-109 in carbon graphite, but have 3 Zara Gray sets remaining. PM me for pricing.

Vorsteiner VFF-109
20x9 / 20x10.5
Finish: Zara Gray

Here's what they look like. Courtesy of TeeWrecks:

 

[dfwatt]

Hi thread,

I ordered a new set of wheels and summer tires last week. The installation notes (from Tire Rack) mention "Each hub has a locator bolt that must be removed before installing aftermarket wheels!".

Has anybody installed aftermarket wheels and run into this? I am assuming there is a temporary assembly bolt on the hub that interferes with the wheel sitting flush. I linked a picture below and I believe they are talking about the bolt with green marking, but am really not sure. I just don't want to remove something critical unnecessarily.

https://i.ytimg.com/vi/M6nZEGob-j8/maxresdefault.jpg

Yes you might have to remove that with some aftermarket wheels but many aftermarket wheels have cavities are specifically designed to make installation easy on cars with those rotor Hub bolts. It depends on the Wheel. And yes it is the bolt with a green marking on it. Most premium Wheels such as vs forged, vorsteiner, Weds, and any number of other manufacturers have a machined out area that clears those bolts