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Discussion in 'Model S' started by BerTX, Apr 5, 2019.
Could potentially an early symptom that your emmc is about to fail?
I’m not sure? They told my wife they replaced the “computer” last time when the gps failed. I’m not 100% sure what that means since we were just out of warranty but the problem occurred prior to warranty running out. I can’t find the invoice so I can’t say what they did. But, both times the problems happened just after updates so I can’t see how it’s not related. No problems prior.
Ok, so I know how many people say AP1 is not being touched anymore, but after I upgraded to 28.3.1 I received a red hands of death warning going through a highway intersection at 75mph. The car swerved left then right as it passed through the intersection that it’s traveled through hundreds of times successfully. Maybe a coincidence it happened the day after a software update, but it’s suspicious.
Call them up, wait on hold for about an hour and see if they can remotely diagnose the problem. If that fails, your stuck with getting it into a service center. My guess is that they will probably want to replace the MCU if they cant fix it remotely. I wish you luck, MCU's are not cheap and I hope you dont have to buy a new one. If you need a new MCU make sure you keep your old one.
2019.32.1 starting to roll for us.
Just got 2019.32.1 last night. I noticed that when changing to the next song when streaming from Android phone/Bluetooth there is now an audible "beep beep" and when going back it beeps 3 times. I didnt see an option to turn that off nor have i see any other reports of this, anyone else notice this?
The nice feature of the fob updater is that it does confirm the version of you keys, looking at your pic.
Interesting! I am updating right now, so I will soon know, but I haven't paid to much attention regarding the fob security options other than the good old faraday cage, but I thought there was the option to purchase new ones for updated security and preventing this fob relay software. So are the existing fobs updating for this security feature without having to buy a new one?
Also I wonder if the wheel size will be taken into consideration for rated range, or the range estimates using navigation.
I just got the latest last night. I figured since I had aftermarket 19 inch wheels that I would try to change up the wheels. When I did this the center screen and Instrument cluster I went black and came back. When it came back I got a slew of errors - no regen, no cruise Control, no AEB. I drove it like that to work and it is freaking me out the whole time.
I made it work and changed the wheels again hoping being parked would cause the errors to go away after resetting, but no joy. Put them back to 21 inches and still all the errors. Is there a way to do a full reset of sorts? This car really changes when driving without Regen alone....
I just did that and changed the avatar to cyclones, as it incorrectly showed slipstreams before. Worked great!
did your car seem to go through a reset process when you changed the wheels?
EDIT - I called Tesla and got instructed on how to do a deep reset and at least all the error messages have gone away while parked in the parking lot. I'm hoping that will bring back all the features. At least the error messages have gone away for now.
There was a post somewhere on the S forum about (possibly an update?) making the nag dismissal more difficult. They described that instead of torquing the wheel in one direction only, you have to “wobble” it back and forth. This would defeat some of the hacks that people have come up with.
Can anyone confirm if this update messes with nag dismissal on AP1?
Good question. I'll have to test this after work today.
Thanks. I’ll be awaiting confirmation before I hit Update.
I watched a YouTube video about this and it does change the range estimates.
Yup don’t do this in traffic people because the screens both went blank for a minute or two.
I'm realizing this may be an ID:10T error on my part. I didn't fully read that it would restart the car disclaimer and I was just trying to make the change on the fly as I waited for my kids to jump in the car on the way to school.
FWIW - the power off reset worked well. I took the car out for lunch earlier today and it was all back to normal with no errors.
I'll try to change it again this evening after I get home and park it in the garage. See if it brings up all the errors again or if staying stationary helps it all update as designed.
I have found no difference in AP1 with 2019.32.1 regarding effort or intervals of nags, lane changes; nothing.
Have no idea about the whole fob update though: My fob is V1 and it is already updated? I have never had my key updated to my knowledge; What is the point here; I don't get it.
I haven’t noticed any changes in Autopilot or the nags.
Tesla added the PIN to drive because the key fobs used an algorithm that used a relatively low bit encryption. Some cars in Europe were stolen by some sophisticated thieves. It appears they recorded a number of key fob presses, then figured out the algorithm from that. As soon as they got access to the car using a lap top that generated the code the car was expecting they turned off all communication from the car to the outside world so neither Tesla nor the owner could find it and drove it off.
I suspect the key fob update implements a more complex algorithm for communication that makes it harder for would be car thieves to hack the key.