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Anybody know why Tesla seeming have gone back to the 3D5 motor?

Just looking at my Vin LRW3F7FRxxxxxxxxx and I'm perplexed why the 8th digit isn't a "S"..

My understanding was that they all went to the newer hairpin motor as of 22?
It better bloody still be able to hit the advertised acceleration 😶‍🌫️

Did other RWD owners this batch (and the last) get the same "R" 8th digit?
I got a R. Build date 30/6
 
On the topic of charging and such, people need to understand that the UMC is more than enough for your charging need if you commute around 60-70kms a day. Most people get home by 6 latest 7pm and leave by 5.30-6am worst case scenario if you charge at 7pm and unplug at 5.30am you charged the car for approximately 10hours at 10km/h thats 100kms of range.
The issue is people will say oh my off peak charges doesnt kick in till 10pm or 11pm .in this case dont be a tight ass to save those extra cents between peak to off peak . Remember u were coming for ice car that cost u 2.20c/L .and the full charge for a rwd from 0% to 100%at 0.35c/kwh on 60kwh will be $21 that gives u 380km of real world range
Compared to a car that has a fuel tank of 50lx 2.20=$110. So you see the savings in here. So no need to upgrade ur house to 3 phase or such. If u need more charging speed get a 32a single phase socket installed and u will get about 30 to 40 km/h which is capable of charging ur battery to 100% every night. Dont over think it.
I don’t have the luxury of a Garage and don’t want to have the UMC out in the weather all the time so I got a wall charger. Everyone’s needs are different.
 
That's pretty much sold me! Thanks for the insight. Info like this is exactly why I joined this forum... I also know a bit about ships and novated leasing too now 🤣
My one piece of advice would be to go in with eyes wide open and get a sparky to assess your mains setup before they quote. They might be able to assess with photos like mine did.

Things the sparky should check include:
  • Maximum current from your meter (mine has a 100A fuse at the meter, and we’re a two person household). I understand increasing this requires assessment / agreement from your utility power provider
  • Your mains switch box has room to add the new “poll” (switch / circuit breaker). To get the maximum 32A power delivery the wall connector should be on its own circuit. If you look yourself and think you don’t have room in the switch box, you may still be in luck, the sparky may be able to move things around to accomodate the new circuit, as they did with mine
I’d recommend finding a sparky who is experienced with EV wall connectors. Any qualified electrician should be fine, but I got the vibe my local guy who’d never done any EV connectors before was just going to make it up as he went along, and he quoted 20% higher.
 
Exactly, I’m a week or so behind you, and this latest shutdown is a pain, considering alot of the orders after us are currently on the water! Tesla production may be fast but it doesn’t seem fair.
Likewise, fellow Order Date triplets!
Hopefully we get good news together…along with many others with dates around us 👍
 
Anybody know why Tesla seeming have gone back to the 3D5 motor?

Just looking at my Vin LRW3F7FRxxxxxxxxx and I'm perplexed why the 8th digit isn't a "S"..

My understanding was that they all went to the newer hairpin motor as of 22?
It better bloody still be able to hit the advertised acceleration 😶‍🌫️

Did other RWD owners this batch (and the last) get the same "R" 8th digit?
Are you sure that’s not the 3D6 Motor? Anyone got a Unicorn model 3 VIN to verify? If it is that’d be awesome. Much higher power output.
 
This site ... Tesla VIN decoder. ... has this for the 8th digit ...

1 = Single motor
2 = Twin motors
3 = Single Performance motor
4 = Twin Performance motor
5 = P2 Dual motor (usually MS or MX)
6 = P2 Tri-motor (MS or MX)
A = Single motor - standard (usually M3)
B = Dual motor - standard (usually M3)
C = Base Motor, Tier 2 Battery or Dual Performance motor (M3)
D = Single motor, std winding (usually MY)
E = Dual motor except M3, std winding (usually MY)
F = Performance, std winding (usually MY)
G = Base Motor, Tier 4 Battery
J = Single motor, hairpin winding
K = Dual motor, hairpin winding
L = Performance, hairpin winding
N = Base Motor, Tier 7 battery
P = Performance Motor, Tier 7 battery
S = 3D7 Motor

... but no 'R'. Need to hunt around a bit more to see what we can find.
 
This site ... Tesla VIN decoder. ... has this for the 8th digit ...

1 = Single motor
2 = Twin motors
3 = Single Performance motor
4 = Twin Performance motor
5 = P2 Dual motor (usually MS or MX)
6 = P2 Tri-motor (MS or MX)
A = Single motor - standard (usually M3)
B = Dual motor - standard (usually M3)
C = Base Motor, Tier 2 Battery or Dual Performance motor (M3)
D = Single motor, std winding (usually MY)
E = Dual motor except M3, std winding (usually MY)
F = Performance, std winding (usually MY)
G = Base Motor, Tier 4 Battery
J = Single motor, hairpin winding
K = Dual motor, hairpin winding
L = Performance, hairpin winding
N = Base Motor, Tier 7 battery
P = Performance Motor, Tier 7 battery
S = 3D7 Motor

... but no 'R'. Need to hunt around a bit more to see what we can find.
So a different motor to the Q1 RWD? Interesting that there hasn't been more commentary if that is in fact the case.
 
You know, if it wasn't for this long wait between order date in February and delivery date in <insert crystal ball date here>, I would not have learnt so much about international shipping, ship tracking sites, forklifts, RORO ships, flying drones in Shanghai, car accessory ordering and delivery, how to refresh the cellphone 50 times a day, and now tonight ... I'm learning about different electric motor technology. Thanks Elon.
 
My pre-approval with Macquarie expires beginning of September. After reading here, and considering, I've decided the odds of seeing my early march OD vehicle arrive before then as slim to none, so will lose the 2.99% interest rate. Interest rate is currently 4.99%, and very likely to rise again. I've started the process with Macquarie of restarting the approval process to lock in the 4.99% interest rate. I feel super confident that I'll have the car before this would expire (end of January 2023).

But now, of course, cause the universe has a sense of humour I'll get a VIN tomorrow and my car will arrive mid August, and I'll have the higher interest rate cause I didn't want to gamble. You're welcome, Feb and March orders ;)
 

So far this is all I can find.. If it's accurate I'm pretty gutted..
I know its just a RWD, but I didn't expect an even further downgrade :(

I'm sure I'll get over it by delivery lol..
 
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