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Battery Care & Maintenance

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A Cold battery cannot put out as much power as a warm battery. Give you another example, this morning, that 162 miles. I started pre-heating my car, which also warms the battery pack to a certain degree. By the time I got in my car, that 162 miles went up to 173. a gain of 11 miles just by preheating. And even then, it was not done heating the battery when I left home. Regen was only at about 15kw, so it could have went longer.

Yes, it is proven that temperatures affect capacity, both tesla has confirmed this with me, as well as my own Knowledge of Lithium and Lead batteries. I'm still looking for the temp capacity chart. I do remember, when I was at the Highland Park service and sales center supercharging last friday, I was playing with the touch screen for configuration and purchase information. The touch screen now compensates for temps when showing range, it has something like freezing, 70's, and 100+

Yea, I knew that temperatures affected output and/or capacity in some way, I just didn't realize the Tesla was compensating for it on the dash ahead of time... I figured your mileage just disappeared quicker as you drove like when the battery heater & heater is on :) Good to know- I probably just haven't noticed because I'm not in those really low extreme temp ranges like you too often.. I'm either charging in the garage, or leaving from work.. and usually don't really look down at my range #'s on daily commutes because I have so much in reserve :) (sorry not trying to rub it in)
 
I also had another thought- comparing range loss with just mileage as the main factor might be a little short sided. In addition to climate, there's driving style (and performance ability).. The P85 will pull more from the pack when driving aggressively than the S85, and that could lead to more stress on the pack adding to degradation over time. Following this same logic, riding on 21's will force someone to do deeper charges than someone with 19's... even if they drive the same route daily.
I actually believe, based on the max draw the cars pull from the battery packs, and the size of each pack, the 60kW gets more abuse under full acceleration.

Correction: After running the numbers, both the 60, and P85 both have a 4x draw on the battery pack. Given that, the Standard 85 should have the highest battery longevity under full accel as it has the lowest draw to capacity of the 3. But, the 60 is running at a lower voltage, causing more resistance. I have not factored that in.

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How often should one do a 100% charge to balance the battery?
I'd say once/month should not pose any harm. Just make sure your not leaving it at 100%.
Its really not the charging to 100% that causes damage, it's LEAVING it at 100% that will cause the damage. Running it to 0 is a whole nother story.

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Yea, I knew that temperatures affected output and/or capacity in some way, I just didn't realize the Tesla was compensating for it on the dash ahead of time... I figured your mileage just disappeared quicker as you drove like when the battery heater & heater is on :) Good to know- I probably just haven't noticed because I'm not in those really low extreme temp ranges like you too often.. I'm either charging in the garage, or leaving from work.. and usually don't really look down at my range #'s on daily commutes because I have so much in reserve :) (sorry not trying to rub it in)

Yep, they sure do compensate for it. I think (and this isn't confirmed, but something I observed), that the switch in how the car calculates range, when they introduced 5.6, made a BIG difference in how cold weather calculations were show. I was on the phone right away with Tesla when the service center updated me to 5.6. I had the worst range loss due to vampire loads, and the cold weather finished charging was loads higher then 4.5. But they reconfirmed, even had a engineer go through crap loads of my cars logs. I was also told that the car now calculates in potential heater usage, and pack warmer usage into the cold weather rated range calculations, though I will admit I do not know to what extent.
But yes, the heater and battery warmer do suck a INSANE amount of power. If your driving under 40mph, it's drawing as much power as your driving is @_@

If you have more then enough power in reserves, just drive it like ya stole it. I have to drive a wee bit more concertedly during the winter, but that peddle is floored during the summer :)
 
Then is it true that frequent supercharging will:
A) throw the battery off balance by a wider margin than charging @ 220 or even at 110?
B) degradation occurs sooner with frequent supercharging?

TIA
a: yes and no, iny supercharging and dumping so muh power into the batteries, the cells with less resistance will chaarge much quicker then, so the less worn cells will charge quicker. Now I've found that doing a 100% charge on a sc though, took much longer then on normal means, however it yielded the highest rated range after balance was complete. could be partially due to heat build up.
B: Not really. excessive use, yah, but for normal use for long distance travel, not really. the biggest problem with supercharging is heat build up. Since the MS has such a awesome thermal managment system, it mitigates that issue :) Nissan even used to have a note not to CHAdeMO more then once a day, as no pack cooling it would damage the batteries.

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So I'm curious if Model S owners are able to pull the CAC information like Roadster owners, or are you guessing about balancing/battery degradation?

New/Refurbished Battery CAC
CAC increased, ideal miles decreased
No, we are locked out of that. their is a very nice battery manaent screen behind the password protection, but no matter how many times I ask, no one will give me access :(
 
Apparently my humor failed.
humerus.jpg
 
What is your specific background in battery technology?

Over 10 years hands on work with Both Lead Acid and Lithium Batteries. I run what was Wisconsin's First electric car dealership. I have built 26 EVs to date, using both Lithium and Lead Acid batteries. I also read WAYYYY too much, and I like inventing and experimenting with things :)

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Apparently my humor failed.
I got a good chuckle :) Would laugh even more if I weren't trying to figure out a good way to wash my battery ;)
 
One of the service center's live car web pages that they can pull up (on their pc in the center) on the car shows a calculated kWh for the battery. The number I saw looked to be the kWh available (charge state of the battery), not just a clean CAC, but that may have been in there to... It's a shame that all the info they can pull up live via their API were also available to us...

Peter

So I'm curious if Model S owners are able to pull the CAC information like Roadster owners, or are you guessing about balancing/battery degradation?

New/Refurbished Battery CAC
CAC increased, ideal miles decreased
 
Lots of good information in this thread!

When I was at the Hawthorne SC last night, I let the car do a Max Charge and waited for it to finish the balancing process. I drove about 80 miles before getting home, then plugged the car in for a Standard Charge overnight.

When I woke up this morning I was pleasantly surprised to see that my Rated Range had increased by 5 miles! I've done 27 standard charges since I got my car, and the rated range was always between 232-234. So 237 is a nice little jump :D

2014-01-26-07-22-05_resized.png
 
May 29,2013 TESLA Model S delivered with 147 rated range.
Jan 25,2014 TESLA Model S sits at 126-128 :confused: rated range after charge. 9200 miles.
You can not set charge to full, the charge is always standard.

This brings up a good point. If a 40kWh car can't range charge to balance it, how can you balance the pack? Perhaps Bottom Balance? :O

Edit: Maybe manually top balancing by charging to whatever max charge you can do. Do it slowly, maybe 110V@12amps. When it completes the charge, let it sit for half hour to an hour, tap the button on the UMC/HPWC handle to restart the charge process, it will go for a few mins then stop. Do this over and over and maybe it might help?
 
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This brings up a good point. If a 40kWh car can't range charge to balance it, how can you balance the pack? Perhaps Bottom Balance? :O

Edit: Maybe manually top balancing by charging to whatever max charge you can do. Do it slowly, maybe 110V@12amps. When it completes the charge, let it sit for half hour to an hour, tap the button on the UMC/HPWC handle to restart the charge process, it will go for a few mins then stop. Do this over and over and maybe it might help?


I suppose bottom balancing would be the only way. It would allow the car to recalculate the total capacity as well. Drain it to 0, then do a real slow charge (5 amp on 240 or 10 amp on 120) back up to full. Don't know how effective it would be though :( I have no 40 to experiment with).
 
Thanks islandbayy. Once a month it is. Appreciate it.

I'm confused by the question-reponse-thanks about how often one should balance the pack. No recommendations from Tesla that one should do it at all (if anything, conflicting advice from them to not max charge unless needed). Folks seem to do it to see what absolute max they can squeeze out of the battery, to try to determine whether it appears they've had capacity degradation, etc. Not to help the battery itself.

So unless one wants a few extra miles for a dicey trip, isn't the real answer "don't bother/not needed"? I meant it's not like max charging is good for/helps/is recommended for the battery, right? (Even if it's okay as long as it's not left at 100%.) Have I missed somewhere here (or elsewhere) where someone provided a scientific explanation of why it's best for the battery to balance it regularly?

Sorry, a lot of interesting stuff in this thread, but some of it makes my eyes glaze over, so I may have missed something.

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My point, of course, is that Roadster owners supplied much of the data that proved out Tesla's guidelines. It doesn't matter that the Roadster battery is older. It's because it IS older that you have guidelines for the Model S, as shared in this video. And if you want even MORE info, I was only saying that we do have an area on this forum where it is discussed in depth.

Beyond a general impression that Tesla's made changes since the Roadster, there are references to storage mode in what Jerry quoted, and your question about CAC, that contribute to my thought that I can't just read Roadster threads and apply it all to my car. Throw in Supercharging and battery pack revisions, and the impression the battery management systems aren't quite the same, and it really seems like . . . well, not apples and oranges, but maybe oranges and tangerines. ;-)

People periodically quote non-Tesla Lithium Ion battery reports and recommendations, and others point out that Tesla's batteries and/or management system make report X or recommendation Y not apply to the Model S. I know that's not Roadster versus Model S, that's Model S versus non-Tesla/non-car (sometimes). But it also contributes to my impression that I can't just read things about something other than the Model S and apply it to my Model S.

But I can see why it seems like folks are reinventing the wheel (er, battery) from where you sit.

(I can barely keep up with Model S threads; I can't imagine also trying to keep up with Roadster ones, sorry! ;-) )
 
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Re Balance

Basically, this is how I keep my battery in good health. How I maintain and keep everything is top condition despite my excessive use of my vehicle. Example, at 21,000 miles, I still have 207-209 Rated miles on 100% charge on my 60kW pack. When my car was delivered new 7 months 3 weeks 3 hrs and 46 minutes ago, my rated range was also 209 miles. ENJOY!



:rolleyes:I have a real hard time with the 209 after 20,000 miles. My model S is a 40 pack with 6000 miles and about 8 months old. I have a kwh/miles of 300. I drove the S to 9 miles then went for a full charge. I lost 1 mile in rated charge from 129 rated to 128. I live in southern CA with the car in the garage, so temp is not a factor, nor are my driving habits since 300 ave kwh/per mile. The problem as I see it is that Tesla is MUTE on the subject. My service center talks about the weather, driving habits. Tesla pulled my records and stated no problems. They would not give me a degraded rate that they would state would be a problem. Maybe when I can't back out of the garage. UNHAPPY Tesla owner. Fred
 
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I'm confused by the question-reponse-thanks about how often one should balance the pack. No recommendations from Tesla that one should do it at all (if anything, conflicting advice from them to not max charge unless needed). Folks seem to do it to see what absolute max they can squeeze out of the battery, to try to determine whether it appears they've had capacity degradation, etc. Not to help the battery itself.

So unless one wants a few extra miles for a dicey trip, isn't the real answer "don't bother/not needed"? I meant it's not like max charging is good for/helps/is recommended for the battery, right? (Even if it's okay as long as it's not left at 100%.) Have I missed somewhere here (or elsewhere) where someone provided a scientific explanation of why it's best for the battery to balance it regularly?

Sorry, a lot of interesting stuff in this thread, but some of it makes my eyes glaze over, so I may have missed something.

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Beyond a general impression that Tesla's made changes since the Roadster, there are references to storage mode in what Jerry quoted, and your question about CAC, that contribute to my thought that I can't just read Roadster threads and apply it all to my car. Throw in Supercharging and battery pack revisions, and the impression the battery management systems aren't quite the same, and it really seems like . . . well, not apples and oranges, but maybe oranges and tangerines. ;-)

People periodically quote non-Tesla Lithium Ion battery reports and recommendations, and others point out that Tesla's batteries and/or management system make report X or recommendation Y not apply to the Model S. I know that's not Roadster versus Model S, that's Model S versus non-Tesla/non-car (sometimes). But it also contributes to my impression that I can't just read things about something other than the Model S and apply it to my Model S.

But I can see why it seems like folks are reinventing the wheel (er, battery) from where you sit.

(I can barely keep up with Model S threads; I can't imagine also trying to keep up with Roadster ones, sorry! ;-) )

For me, Balancing is regularally, as I range charge often. In my opinion, i'd say Monthly with Lithium.
Having a balanced pack is important for longevity as well. In a out of balance pack, the lower voltage cells are getting cycled deeper then the higher voltage cells, causing them to go to a lower state of charge.

I have found this website, which explains it fairly well. Would like to copy and paste it here, but it's better to link and give them credit.
http://mpoweruk.com/balancing.htm

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:rolleyes:I have a real hard time with the 209 after 20,000 miles. My model S is a 40 pack with 6000 miles and about 8 months old. I have a kwh/miles of 300. I drove the S to 9 miles then went for a full charge. I lost 1 mile in rated charge from 129 rated to 128. I live in southern CA with the car in the garage, so temp is not a factor, nor are my driving habits since 300 ave kwh/per mile. The problem as I see it is that Tesla is MUTE on the subject. My service center talks about the weather, driving habits. Tesla pulled my records and stated no problems. They would not give me a degraded rate that they would state would be a problem. Maybe when I can't back out of the garage. UNHAPPY Tesla owner. Fred


If you have a hard time believing me, can always watch my youtube video showing my range going up. This one doesn't show the 209, but it shows the 208. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d0NQpqjEJRw
And you can always call the desk at Highland Park service center where we were watching it tick up to 209 :)


As for only loosing 1 mile after driving 9 miles, seems without doing a full depth discharge and a max 100% charge (which your unable to do), The car is having some trouble calculating the total energy capacity of the pack.
I have also seen little impact of driving style to rated range. No matter how many Wh/Mile I consume, my car is always calculating rated based on 300Wh/Mile (I believe it was 290 on firmware 4.5 for me). Right now, as of yesterday, I hit 340Wh/Mile. made absolutely no difference.

Now, their are 3 calculations, car only shows 2. a nice application is Visual Tesla, written by one of the board members here. It will show you the Ideal Mileage, the Rated Mileage, and then the Estimated Mileage. Now, it is the ESTIMATED miles that is based on your actual driving habits. To give you a example, it is -8*F right now. At a 90% charge, my car is reporting 155 Rated Miles, 180 Ideal, but my Estimated, based on my Wh/Mile, is 88.7 (that is, if I continue to consume the same per mile as I did on my last charge. This number varies wildly, and can only be seen by the Visual Tesla app, not on the car or via the Tesla phone app)


Back to your comments (I get off track easily), you have not lost range, the car needs to recalculate the battery capacity.
The only way I can think of that will allow one of the software limited 40's to balance and help the car recalculate the capacity, is to drain it low, to say 5-10 miles rated, then charge at the slowest pace, which would be a 120v outlet, at 5amps. This will take a very very long time, so I'd say do that when you wont be needing the car for a few days (Vacation) or charge it at 12amp 120v up to it's allowed capacity. Thats all I can think of if the service center wont temporally unlock it to let it balance.

If you call Tesla phone support, and request a Engineer looks at your car logs, they can log into your vehicle, and see what the actual capacity loss of your pack is in a %. If you do have loss, it will most likely be in a fraction of a percent. 0.001%, something very low. When they checked mine when I "thought" I was having problems after the firmware 5.6 update (I was having problems, the firmware caused my vampire losses to more then double, 5.8 fixed that), they said my potential loss was about 0.008%, almost not calculable


What I'd like to see is a option on the charge screen, that we could select that would force battery balancing at any charge %. I'd like to see it lock the car out from being driven until complete (shouldn't take more then a half hour with a lithium pack) so i'd be like the firmware updates do.
 
@islandbayy, you may have misunderstood what Fred6936 was saying. I think he discharged his battery to the point of having 9 miles left, as you had suggested, then did a full (72%) charge and found his fully charged range dropped from 129 to 128.