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Car Unable to Charge

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- You don't need to remove the rear seat backs. This avoids having to try and remove the side padded trim pieces which I spent 20 mins trying unsuccessfully to do. Instead, after removing all the bolts, yank up on the front edge of the seat cushion frame, and it will pivot upwards on the point where it attaches to the backs. Bungie cord it up out of your way. Mediocre pic of this:
View attachment 366816

I should have added: When done fold the seats down on to the lower seat frame, and lift upwards on the seat-back pivot point while pushing the lower front edge of the seat frame back on to its location with the mounting holes.
 
I own a EU model S and live in the Netherlands. EU cars charge at 3-phase, mine is giving problems with charging, it seems to only charge at 2 phase and no charging possible at 1 phase with the household single phase adapter. Tesla technician read out the log of the car and now says the charger needs replacement. Car just 4 years old and 100k kms, so possibly I need to pay a lot..
Would your fix of replacing fuses also apply for the EU cars?? Any information about the fuses/electronics of the EU cars compared with US cars?
 
Thanks for all the info guys! My car has dual chargers and just started “only” charging at 40A (my HPWC is set up on a 60A breaker and set to 48A, has always charged at 48A). The display in the car says 40/48A...I’m assuming this would be the secondary charger?
 
Big thanks to Nick S and Scaesare for their previous video, pics and explanations. Replaced a blown fuse today and saved $2564! New fuse: $36. Tesla quote: $2200 for new charger plus $400 installation. I asked if they would just replace a fuse, and they said " we don't do that". I said "that's nuts, I'm going to try it myself". They said, "let us know how goes, and wear gloves!". One extra shortcut: in addition to not taking out the seatbacks and just pivoting up the seat support cage, I didn't remove the connector on the outside end of the charger, mostly because I couldn't figure it out. There was still enough play after undoing the other connections to lift the housing and change the fuse (obviously leaving the charger in the car). Took an extra hour to go and buy a T50 bit to undo the seatbelt but otherwise went pretty smoothly. Getting the seat cage back in again was tricky. Reinstalling and tightening the bolts below the seat backs pulled it back into alignment. Before doing that I couldn't get the front supports into position. Remembered after putting the seat cushion back in I didn't clip the orange cables back onto the support cage. No biggie. It will take about 5 minutes tomorrow now I know how to do it! Thanks again guys.
 
Thanks for a great thread !!!
Anyone able to give me some help.
I have a model S, here in Norway, 165000 km and out of warranty. Dual on board chargers.
I hardly never need the onboard slave charger. The slave charger is now diagnosed by Tesla to have a fuse that has tripped.
They say I need to buy new slave charger. Cost to replace and for work approx 3500 USD. !!!
I asked them to install new fuses. But rejected that. Then I asked them to downgrade from 2 chargers to 1 charger or just bypass the slave charger. Answer: Not possible to downgrade.
Any ideas or comments would be more than welcome. :)
 
I forgot to mention an important impact from the blown fuse and that is that super charging is not possible. Tesla confirmed that it is due to blown fuse on slave charger, even though the on board chargers are not in use when supercharging. It has to do with errors during signalling tests that the supercharger is performing when initialising supercharging. In other words: supercharger senses the blown fuse.
Another «fun fact» is that I have been charged approx 400 USD by Tesla just to diagnose that it is the slave on board charger that causes that supercharging is not possible......
 
Thanks for a great thread !!!
Anyone able to give me some help.
I have a model S, here in Norway, 165000 km and out of warranty. Dual on board chargers.
I hardly never need the onboard slave charger. The slave charger is now diagnosed by Tesla to have a fuse that has tripped.
They say I need to buy new slave charger. Cost to replace and for work approx 3500 USD. !!!
I asked them to install new fuses. But rejected that. Then I asked them to downgrade from 2 chargers to 1 charger or just bypass the slave charger. Answer: Not possible to downgrade.
Any ideas or comments would be more than welcome. :)

Idea: replace the fuse yourself for ~$20. (There are threads here with links to YouTube videos showing how to do it.)
 
Do you have any new info on EU cars?
Sorry for my late reply, but no - i did not get any information that gives me more clarity if an EU charger is facing the same issue and fuse replacement is as simple as shown in this thread. Though i am one of the few dutch private owners of a model s, so most others will just pay the 2500-3000euro for the charger when it fails. I am not willing to do this before checking the fuse. The EU charger looks different than the US version, and it is based on 3-phase charging, so i can imagine that internals are different. I am planning to open up the charger soon, so far i am charging at 66% of charging speed at 2 phases, which is good enough for home charging. Though i miss the ability to use the single phase 220V socket, which is not working since the problem occured. Apparently the blown fuse is from the phase connected to the single-phase household plug adapter, which i rarely used at hotels to charge.
 
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A huge thank you to everyone contributing to this thread! The top fuse on our master charger failed last week. Didn’t have time to wait the week + for shipping from the inexpensive sites so I sourced them locally. Replaced both fuses on the master charger for $96 OTD. 2013 P85 with 73k miles
 
Ugh my fuse died again after ~2.5-3 years. I only replaced the failing one ~2.5 years ago since amazon only had 1 in stock prime. Tesla quoted me yet again another $2200.. so ordering fuses now.

I'll have saved almost $5000 in charger repairs now for a FUSE..

It is likely that it is the one you didn't replace, and Tesla probably replaces both when they refurbish a charger. (Assuming you wouldn't have gotten a new charger.) So it is possible that this failure wouldn't have happened...
 
Have the same issue as described in this thread and suspecting its the fuse of my master onboard charger. Anyone in Dallas, TX had this issue and DIY to resolve this? I have a 2013 p90+ (fortunately got a new battery pack) with 107K miles & wanna get this work done next week. The service center confirmed that are no longer rewire/configuring any vehicles to make the slave charger as the master. Do I have to remove the negative terminal from the 12v battery that’s in the frunk or can I just unplug the HV interlock cable?
 
Have the same issue as described in this thread and suspecting its the fuse of my master onboard charger. Anyone in Dallas, TX had this issue and DIY to resolve this? I have a 2013 p90+ (fortunately got a new battery pack) with 107K miles & wanna get this work done next week. The service center confirmed that are no longer rewire/configuring any vehicles to make the slave charger as the master. Do I have to remove the negative terminal from the 12v battery that’s in the frunk or can I just unplug the HV interlock cable?

Didnt see your reply til now not sure if you figured it out already. Just disconnect 12v AND the HV responder right next to it. Then test with multimeter several ways to be safe.

Then just replace fuse in the dead one and you'll probably be good. I'd replace both as the one that died for me again recently was the one I didn't replace 3 years ago. Obviously age/heat has to affect these fuses somehow.
 
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Didnt see your reply til now not sure if you figured it out already. Just disconnect 12v AND the HV responder right next to it. Then test with multimeter several ways to be safe.

Then just replace fuse in the dead one and you'll probably be good. I'd replace both as the one that died for me again recently was the one I didn't replace 3 years ago. Obviously age/heat has to affect these fuses somehow.


Thanks much Tim.. yes we got the fuse(s) replaced on my master onboard charger. One of them was indeed bad and I did just as u had suggested... ended up changing both fuses. Super happy that I didn’t have to go the more expensive route.
 
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