Clunking sound is costing me a bundle to fix out of warranty

[CUBldr97]

DU replacement does not include either half shaft. I had DU replaced under warranty this week and the tech said they check for the "Clunk" after each DU replacement now, and if the grease on the CV shaft's spline (at the wheel hub) has dried out and started gapping, they will repack.
They did so for mine, the clunk is gone, no charge for this on my bill.

I had requested they order in a half-shaft just in case, and he did. It wasn't needed.

Edit To Add:
I got a Q build series drive unit this time! The last replacement one that started moaning was a way earlier build. J?

how do you know the build? I just had my 4th DU installed.

 

[SW2Fiddler]

how do you know the build? I just had my 4th DU installed.

In the receipt, parts list.

Part ..... Quantity
ASY,P-TRAIN,MECH,COMPLETE,RC
(1002633-00-Q) 1

ATF, QUART (1031106-00-A) 2

SIDE MOTOR MOUNT ASSEMBLY (1028034
-00-B) 1

 

[CUBldr97]

In the receipt, parts list.

perfect thanks... it is a Q code...

 

[markb1]

perfect thanks... it is a Q code...

What code was your previous drive unit? I wonder how the Q drive units are holding up. I'm on my second drive unit, a Q, since December 2015, and it's holding up. But I don't put a ton of miles on my car.

 

[mmmnnn]

No car is still with service. Best part is service is telling me this may or may not fix the problem.

Seems i have the same issue, did replacing the axle end up fixing the noise, or they had to replace the DU? Thanks

 

[sorka]

how do you know the build? I just had my 4th DU installed.

Geez. I'm on my original DUs at 87K miles with probably thousands of ludicrous launches by now.

 

[TSLA Pilot]

Having an expensive drive train related service after only 38k miles, even after not missing one inspection or maintenance with Tesla service center , reflects very poorly on Tesla's engineering and manufacturing. Not to own it is rubbing salt on the wound. Had this been a conked out electronic item like the center display, thats a different thing because electronic items have the habit of running fine for a decade or dying abruptly. But for a core mechanical component developing a serious defect after only 38k miles is different.

My Lexus had a transmission issue that showed up several months after my warranty expired, but the dealer fixed it with no charge to me, because I had done every maintenance with them diligently and they didn't catch it. They owned the problem and they even gave me a free loaner.

He does have a point there . . . my experience with Toyota (and by extension, Lexus) is such that it places Tesla's recent service practices to shame.

The car has 38k miles, and has regular service, and he's being screwed.

Elon--please fix this; this is what leads to a bad reputation and that's really hard to fix.

 

[TSLA Pilot]

The definition of a Drivetrain is all of the components connecting the motor to the wheels(including axels). Powertrain is the drivetrain plus the motor. Tesla does not have a "drivetrain" warranty like BMW. Tesla has a "Drive Unit" warranty.

The "drive unit" itself which contains the motor, inverter & gearbox is covered. I recall the mechanics stating the P85 drive unit was a $150 remanufactured part, after subtracting the core cost of the original. If you really do need axels, then those prices look accurate(assuming they don't give core recovery prices). If that Tesla service isn't sure the parts will fix it, find a different service center. Choose one of the older centers that's been around since 2013 if possible. Make sure they completed all of the service bulletins on your car. If they skipped a related bulletin that was at the discretion of the inspecting mechanic during your 4 year period, you can argue that they should have done that bulletin. If it came out during your ESA period, they should still do it for free now, since they opted not to earlier.

I originally bought a demo P85 in 2013 (no miles, just a mall show car). When I had a clunking noise, they replaced only the drive unit and added the bulletins updated washers and wire ties. Then when that reman unit started rumbling they replaced it again, more bulletins, didn't have any issues after that. I've never heard of a base S60 having the same issue, it was always the P85's (and roadsters) that were in the local shop for repairs.

Honestly, the noise won't leave you stranded for a long time. if it's not noticeable just keep it another 10 years. I'm actually surprised the service center didn't pre-empt the conversation by giving you the trade-in offer. You may not want to consider it at all, or maybe you do. Sell Tesla the S 60, and they will send you off in a new or pre-owned 75D. Tesla sales probably won't count the repair against the trade in value, since the new owner gets a fresh warranty anyway. Not sure your car specs, but trade in might be around $35-40k usd. Since they sell 2013 S60's ~ $40-54k usd. A newer 75 has better range, 4th gen powertrain platform, AP, would leave you with a payment though. Tesla has "demo" cars which qualify for the federal US tax break, where as the "Pre-owned" cars do not. Doesn't NJ give a sales tax break on new Electric cars?

This ^^^^^^^^^^ is really the best solution. Hope they'll meet you in a good place on your trade in--seems like a no-brainer if so.

 

[‘Merica]

Before you do anything else - pop off the rear wheels and simply retorque the hub nut. 245 Nm on each immediately fixed the persistent clunking on mine. The alternative according to SC was about 3 grand in axles. It appears this is not necessary.

 

[ND100]

I’ve had the ‘clunk’ practically since new on a 2017 Model S. SC can’t reproduce as the problem tends to be worse when cold. Other than hearing the sound, what’s the drawback to not getting this fixed?

 

[‘Merica]

If you’re hearing noise, something is moving that shouldn’t be, even if only a tiny amount. Over time it will cause wear that could lead to a failure. Try the retorque - it’s 10 minutes of time that could resolve your issue if it’s at the hub end. You’ll need a big torque wrench and a 32mm socket.

 

[pcox]

If you’re hearing noise, something is moving that shouldn’t be, even if only a tiny amount. Over time it will cause wear that could lead to a failure. Try the retorque - it’s 10 minutes of time that could resolve your issue if it’s at the hub end. You’ll need a big torque wrench and a 32mm socket.

What is the thinking behind the retorque? Is the thought that the drive shaft is loose and needs to be tightened? Does anyone know what the hub nut torque should be for a MS or MX (be the same or different).

 

[‘Merica]

The driveshaft is loose. The retorque will pull everything back in and fully seat the splines inside the wheel hub. Torque spec is 245 nm or about 180 ft lbs for the MS. Not sure about the X

 

[JonathanD]

Going in for my second appointment on this one. Last time I got the "Technician verified the clicking noise in the rear axles on the drive. Technician pro-actively lubed the rear axles and torqued rear suspension. Test drove vehicle with drive technician and verified there are no abnormal noises present after repairs at this time." but it was still clicking/clunking even as I drove out of the service center lot. Did a second test drive, and now they have a DU on hand in case they need to replace. Prelim paperwork didn't quote any $ for half shafts.

 

[JonathanD]

Follow up, this wound up being a drive unit issue and was replaced under warranty.

 

[Big Toys]

Follow up, this wound up being a drive unit issue and was replaced under warranty.

In old fashioned cars still roaming the roads, it usually meant the wheel bearing was loose or shot.

 

[dutchneon]

My 2013 P85+ with over 150k miles just developed this issue, going to take the wheels off and try to retorque the nut

 

[Brass Guy]

My 2013 P85+ with over 150k miles just developed this issue, going to take the wheels off and try to retorque the nut

Please report back with the results either way!

 

[mambro]

My 2014 P85+ with 89.8k miles is making the click/pop sound also. I replaced the washers (1020296-00-B) 2@$3.30 and axle nuts (1020297-00-A) 2@$2.20 with new and torqued. Still making the noise. Requested a service appointment and attached a couple of the screen shots of Tesla invoices people have posted in this thread, explaining I wanted the same service these other 2 incidents had (lube & torque). Got a call that a diagnostic was required before service. Tesla offered to have Mobile Service come out. Service came out, we took a brief ride, heard the sound, and agreed the next step is the half shaft splines re-lube at the hub and torque everything down. My service appointment is Oct 8th, so will know more then. I was also told the charge for the required diagnostic ($97.50) would be applied to the service visit. The estimate PDF I was sent shows the labor charge to be $97.50. Also noticed the Service Center hourly rate is now USD $195.

Handy tip another Mobile Service guy showed me... using a suction cup the size of the center cap on the wheel will pull that cap right off. Then you can torque the axle nuts w/o taking the wheel off. There were no cotter/split pins on the axle nuts to deal with either.

 

[Gtech]

How can they re-lube both splines from the half shafts in 30 minutes while they charge 2 hours to swap out one driveshaft?

I looked in the service manual and there is no way that it is a 15 minute job to get to the splines out the hub and lubricate them.

What i do see in the manual is that they put greese on the hub, not the splines. Same as what the description of work from mambo says (hub, not splines) Can anyone confirm what they actually are lubricating?

This because I will do it myself and I can make a tutorial (with sound before and after) for anyone here if needed.

Copy from SM:

Think that just lubricating the half shaft between the hub is doable without removing the whole half shaft. Will definitely try it to get rid of that stupid noise.