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Disappointing Range in P3D. Is this normal?

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Many good suggestions here. I will add your tires are probably just broken in now, you are getting used to the car and your car to you. all will be fine in time. Since regen is not as efficient, try to minimize its use by timing your progress to the traffic or light cycles such that the meter stays close to neutral. It is a fun mental game of time space calculation - just like the good old days of driving a manual in traffic in 2nd gear. Enjoy!
 
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I second the issue with the tires. Tires take about 1000 miles to break in and will have significantly lower rolling resistance then. The DU probably also has a little break in.
Also - rain is huge. Cold is huge. Your consumption will be down 20% on typical dry, warm SOCA weather. I can't seem to stop saying the word huge - it just makes me laugh (and cry) lately and I don't know why.....
 
I got the exact same numbers as you did on my P3+. Think we probably drive the same. It is 100% the tires, I got a set of 19" wheels and put the Michelin MXM4 tires at 235/40/19 on. These are my winter/roadtrip tires. Heat off, speed under 68 and it will do better then estimated range with this set up. I plan on getting rid of my stock 20" wheels. I'm going wider and with a better tire for my "don't care about the range set up". To me the OEM set up is to much of a compromise.
FWIW I went to 19" wheels for tire selection, the 20"wheel is extremely limited on tires in that size. T3 new wheels.jpg
 
My M3P without PUP has 6200 miles in about 10 weeks. I have the 18 inch wheels with the Aero caps removed. I have a healthy mix of highway and stop and go (although stop and go tends to be on the highway in rush hour traffic). Highway driving is typically at 70-80mph. My lifetime Wh/mi is at 265. At least once a day my wife tells me she hates it when I accelerate so quickly...

Not sure what mileage I am getting relative to the advertised 310, as I charge to 70% every day. My commute is about 40 miles each way.
 
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My lifetime WH/mi has been slowly creeping up from 280 in Sept. to 335 in Dec. Actually, driving around in 20F weather, multiple short trips. I actually have owned a Chevy Bolt as well since Jan '18. I prefer its efficiency rating of mi/kWH. So right now: Tesla P3D+ is 3.6 mi/kwH summer and 2.2 mi/KWh winter. Bolt is 4.2 mi/kwH summer and 2.2/kWh winter. So it is all temperature/heater etc. The P3D+ is less efficient in the city than the Bolt (big wheels) and more efficient at high speeds (aerodynamics). The Bolt has a very accurate "guess o meter" that displays constantly with a real time estimate of remaining range. Right now full charge is 130 mi vs. 238 EPA. Using the 2.2 mi/KwH I'd guess the P3D+ could do 165 mi. *If you turn off the heat in either car you'll get a lot of that back*.. The Bolt is way easier to hypermile for me. My 16 year old is driving it now. He blasts the heat, and is not great with regen. My experience that Nirvana temp for battery range is 75-85F. Somewhere below 40-50F it starts getting reduced bad - just when your auto HVAC starts heating the car. This is all normal. If commute 30 mi/day you'll just be charging a more often at home. If you take a long road trip, after your first supercharger stop, you car battery will be a lot warmer and your range won't be so bad. It is multiple short trips where everything comes up to temp and then - you get out and stop driving. Inefficient.
 
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All snark aside... I have seen a lowering of efficiency with the colder temps. As early as 10oC (50oF).

It is takes easily 10-20% - if not 30-40% - more energy right now. Multiple stops really kills range because the battery cools down and must reheat again.

Also, I am not sure how the EPA does it's range testing, but TeslaBjorn (youtube) has done range testing. He drove about 55-57mph on the highway to get 310 miles.
 
I saw similar numbers with my P3D+ at first and noticed a few things about your post.

First of all my lifetime is right about 300 wh/mi and I like to drive fast occasionally, but mostly commute calmly. Once the thrill of 3.5 seconds was experienced a few dozen times I have cooled down with constant acceleration.

1. Tire pressure needs to be inflated to 42 Cold (I run 45 myself) The ride will be a bit firmer with higher pressures. If you are seeing 42 when driving your tires are a several psi under inflated.
2. Short trips plus stop and go traffic kills the mileage unless you really pay attention to coasting like glamisduner recommended.
3. P4S are super sticky, they will cost 10% compared to a Low rolling resistance design. I run a cheap A/S tire and can get down to the 250 range with going the speed limit and still on the stock 20s. Great grip will cost you mileage.
4. If you like to accelerate much at all you wont see the rated mileage. Obviously you do as you bought a performance model.
5. you are still breaking in your tires, I'd wait until 2k miles to see where your efficiency settles.
6. Use butt warmer rather than HVAC will give you better mileage, might not be worth it to some people to feel less luxurious.
 
Coasting and avoiding regen sounds counter-intuitive to me. Can someone explain their thought process on that? I've always tried to get the highest regen possible as less distance for the same energy capture means less losses due to rolling resistance of tires, no?

My lifetime P3D with 19" 275-width PS4S is 281Wh/mi after 4600 miles.

I'd estimate ~100 launches in that time frame and half a dozen flat-out 1/4 mile runs.
 
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Coasting and avoiding regen sounds counter-intuitive to me. Can someone explain their thought process on that? I've always tried to get the highest regen possible as less distance for the same energy capture means less losses due to rolling resistance of tires, no?

Regen is good, but it has losses in the conversion back to the battery pack. So they mean that if you are letting off the pedal and seeing some regen for a few seconds and then getting back on the pedal and accelerating again this will NOT be as efficient as if you just held the pedal slightly to coast.

This isn't saying that you shouldn't use regen to stop or anything like that. Just saying that if you use regen and then have to accelerate right after, it will not be as efficient as if you had just coasted instead.
 
Regen is good, but it has losses in the conversion back to the battery pack. So they mean that if you are letting off the pedal and seeing some regen for a few seconds and then getting back on the pedal and accelerating again this will NOT be as efficient as if you just held the pedal slightly to coast.

This isn't saying that you shouldn't use regen to stop or anything like that. Just saying that if you use regen and then have to accelerate right after, it will not be as efficient as if you had just coasted instead.

Thanks for explaining, that makes sense. There are a lot of us new tesla owners trying to figure this stuff out :)

I would like to know how to maximize range if I want to, but I intend to "just drive" and enjoy it for the most part. For example, the car that this one replaced for me I drove in "sport" mode all the time, so I got 17-18 MPG instead of 23-24. I didnt drive aggressive, I just liked the acceleration and suspension from the sport mode, and was wiling to pay extra for gas.

The run rate of the tesla is so much cheaper on my electric + solar that getting bad "mpg" equivalent doesnt scare me so much.
 
Thanks for explaining, that makes sense. There are a lot of us new tesla owners trying to figure this stuff out :)

I would like to know how to maximize range if I want to, but I intend to "just drive" and enjoy it for the most part. For example, the car that this one replaced for me I drove in "sport" mode all the time, so I got 17-18 MPG instead of 23-24. I didnt drive aggressive, I just liked the acceleration and suspension from the sport mode, and was wiling to pay extra for gas.

The run rate of the tesla is so much cheaper on my electric + solar that getting bad "mpg" equivalent doesnt scare me so much.

It’s a common misconception with EV’s that “regen” is the perfect energy conservation tool.
Sadly, not so. It varies from car to car, and depending on speed, it can be as little as 50% efficient, though obviously far better than braking which dumps energy into your brake rotors.
However a coast to a stop is always going to be far better.
 
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I would like to know how to maximize range if I want to, but I intend to "just drive" and enjoy it for the most part. For example, the car that this one replaced for me I drove in "sport" mode all the time, so I got 17-18 MPG instead of 23-24. I didnt drive aggressive, I just liked the acceleration and suspension from the sport mode, and was wiling to pay extra for gas.

Oh i agree, my "lifetime" efficiency on my P3D is 370 Wh/mile right now ;) Sure i have less range, but it really doesn't affect me much and i have a blast.
 
I picked up my car a couple months ago, but it initially went into the shop, so I've just recently been getting used to it. My first Tesla and first electric car, so still learning.

One of the things that has been kind of a disappointment has been the range I'm getting from the car. I have only been charging it to 90%, which results in about 276 - 277 miles of estimate range. I realize this is just EPA rated range, and there's a whole host of factors that can change that (just like in any gasoline car), but I didn't think it would be so dramatically off. In actuality, 276 - 277 miles gets me about 175 - 195 miles. Sometimes the estimate will fall at a rate of double what I'm actually driving (i.e. drive 30 miles and lose 60 miles of range). Seems like the energy usage is averaging out at about 350 - 360 wh/mile.

Is this normal? And I guess I'm curious more specifically about other P3D owners that have the larger wheels, since there's obviously a little bit of a range hit associated with the larger wheels.

And I see all the advice about changing the meter from EPA range to %, but that's kind of missing the point. I'm just wondering if this is the sort of range one should expect. When I bought the car, I figured a full charge would be fine 98% of the days I drive. As it stands, that might change to 80% of time. Not a huge deal, but a little more hassle than I anticipated.

That does sound just a bit high,but the differences in range/whr per mile can be stunning, esp. on the Performance version with 20s. For example, I took an around town errand loop in our area in FL, no heat, no AC, tires at 44psi, not too much stopping, very conservative driving, no speed over 45, just to see a best case scenario, and managed 190 whr/mile (which works out to a stunning 177MPGe). Then got on the highway, blasted it 0-80 as quick as it would go, went two exits, and that trip was double that consumption at 380 whr/mi. Heat and A/C do matter, but speed and rate of acceleration are huge factors. It's tough not using all that ~475 hp (motor output is underrated according to latest dyno testing).

Try an around town loop, keep your speed down, no heat or A/C. tire pressures up to at least 42-43, try to drive 30-35 and see if you can get close to 200 whr/mi. If you can't, I'd have Tesla run a check on your system.
 
I took a class on building EVs once and this is what we were told

Coasting in an EV is always more efficient than regen can be but it's important to note that regen is way better than using friction brakes.

What I try to do is the best mixture I can; don't let the car regen too soon when coming to a stop but avoid the friction brakes whenever possible. Our Audi A3 e-Tron has no regen w/o using the brake pedal, something I actually find very difficult to get used to when compared to the Tesla. The Audi can't be 1 pedal driving by design, but on the highway or even surface streets, you can feel how long the car can coast under no throttle conditions. The drivetrain is completely (as much as possible) in freewheeling mode in those cases, which does feel a bit weird as well.
 
I was just looking at this recently. The computer was stating something like this for the four tires:

(42) - (45)

(45) - (42)

That was after a little bit of driving to warm them up. I suppose I should try to even this out up to the recommended PSI level.

This may have a significant effect on your efficiency....

Yes, those 42's are 3 psi below even the low recommended pressure, since they supposed to be measured overnight-cold. After even a mile of driving they'll be creeping up, so get a good tire gauge. Also, the TPMS sensors are not necessarily accurate, so that's another reason to get a gauge. I do use the computers readings to monitor pressure from time to time because its faster and easier than using the gauge.

You'll get better efficiency, but lower grip at 45psi cold, and apparently early 3's had that as the door-sticker recommendation.
 
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