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Discussion in 'Model S: Interior & Exterior' started by BigTonyTones, Jan 30, 2017.
Thanks! Appreciate your help !
I reached out to cozero amd waiting for a reply for them
As I contacted cozero I discovered with them that they had changed the colour of the wire .
One of the images attached shows part of the kit and the yellow wire needing to be cut.
On my own kit there were 4 different color wires, brown, orange, grey and red
From the diagram and some understanding the brown wire needed to be cut.
So I gave it a try and Voila the key fob now closes the trunk!
So anyone with new kits should be aware that a wire may still need to be cut and could be a different color other than yellow. Others wrote about this in the forum, some had cut their wire, some didn’t.
I prob did this wrong but now I need to seal this gaping hole.
Does anyone have a suggestion how to seal all these wires ? Protect it from water? And seal the hole so water won’t enter?
You'll probably have to pull the wires back out and re-run them. You could find a rubber grommet that fits that hole and poke a hole in it to run your wires through (and maybe add some silicone to seal it). I didn't end up using that hole...it doesn't exist on the other side either so how did you get the other side power wire through?
The wires that have to go into the trunk lid went through the factory grommet. The power wires to the poles I ran under the factory grommet and sealed it in with silicone. The instructions tell you to poke a hole in the factory grommet which I was not about to do.
Anyone think something like this could be developed for the frunk?
I just installed mine and got the same problem with the keyfob not able to close the gate. Im glad to see there is a solution. Since the solution requires me to remove some of the plastic parts I have a question.
Do anyone have a tip for mounting all the parts. I think that after I have put it all together there is more creaks from the back of the cabin than before. Thought about using a bit of grease where the parts meets. Any thoughts?
I found that a source of some squeaking/creaking was the speaker grill back there. I could tap on the grill and reproduce the sound. Added some strip calk to the each clip and was no longer able to get the sound by tapping on it.
But I also replaced almost every blue clip with a new one and added a bit of strip calk to them as well to ensure they couldn't move around. Also cut up some CLD tiles I got from the Sound Deadener Showdown website and lined most of the inside of the liftgate...
Alright - Think I will go get a bag of clips then. Where you able to reproduce the sounds on each panel and eliminate the creaking one panel at the time while the car is parked and partly unassembled? I find it hard to detect where the noise is coming from when Im in the drivers-seat...
The only one I could find that way was the speaker grill. Went a bit overboard in my approach with all the sound deadening material but it worked.
I have alot of sound dampening materials left from earlier projects, so I will do that also. Did you place it onto the plastic-parts or the liftgate-frame?
I put everything on the plastic parts with the idea to stop them from being able to vibrate.
Thanks Mokuzai, you have been very helpfull... ☺️
Read all the thread posts. Thank you for all the efforts put into explanations and tips!
Is the recommended kit still from Cozero, or is the Auotease kit improved as well? The reason I ask is that Autoease now claims to include the foot sensor with their kit. Is this an option for the Cozero kit?
Do u still need someone to install for ur liftgate ? I am willing to do it for $400 it will take 3-4 hours
BUMP. Anyone have any experience about which one to buy?
Not sure how many here would have had experience with both to be able to make that recommendation.
Personally I looked at the foot sensor and decided against it due to the instructions wanting holes drilled in the car so didn't investigate further.
Thanks Mokuzai, that makes sense then.
I installed my 1. gen kit from Che1/Autoease 18 months ago and it has performed fairly well except for the occasional uncommanded closing of the trunk.
Recently though, two annoying problems have surfaced. The first is the uncommanded closing, only now it happens 8 out of 10 times I open the trunk. It seems to be temperature dependent, on really hot days it just will not stay open at all!
The second issue is that both struts are ratteling, the righthand side much more than the left.
There is significant play between the inner and outer tube resulting in a very audible ratteling noise that is present when going over even small bumps, speeedbumps etc.
I wrapped the outer tubes in waterpipe insulation foam to give the strut a bit tension when stowed, that killed the ratteling noise and fixed the problem.....it does look pretty ghetto though
So then, would this qualify as a warranty case or should I just suck it up and order a new kit from COzero?
Going back to manual opening is not an option
Hey Nick, my gen one liftgate mostly works okay after I did a reset on it. I'll let you know if I need to have the gen 2 installed (which I still may do in the upcoming weeks or months).
I have an update to share. I bought the OEM Tesla liftgate actuator (part# 6006610-00) and strut part# (6006611-00-B) to see if they will work on the Cozero kit. I tried my best to match the wires and it works! However, it will only go up (really fast as well) and won't close.
I did not really explore any further, but I did end up using just one of the actuators from the cozero kit and used the OEM strut and rubber grommet. It's much smoother now and looks just like the factory one! I will post videos and pics tomorrow.