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santana338
Member
With all due respect to those that choose to use a cement curbs and lasers to park, let me offer this alternative. I saw this posted somewhere else on the forums and this was also mentioned in an earlier post on this thread.
The MS has a perfectly useable rear camera that can be used to determine when you are far enough into your garage. To set the up for perfect parking every time, I simply parked where I wanted it to be. Then took some painters tape and put in on the floor at the rear of the car where it can just be seen by the camera. To use this I just turn on the backup camera when pulling head first into the garage. Once I see the tape I know I can stop. I did the same thing at the back of the garage in case I want to back in. In that case I used some neon yellow paint once I was comfortable with the tape mark.
Of course, I don't have issues lining up side to side in my garage so maybe I am just oversimplifying.
The MS has a perfectly useable rear camera that can be used to determine when you are far enough into your garage. To set the up for perfect parking every time, I simply parked where I wanted it to be. Then took some painters tape and put in on the floor at the rear of the car where it can just be seen by the camera. To use this I just turn on the backup camera when pulling head first into the garage. Once I see the tape I know I can stop. I did the same thing at the back of the garage in case I want to back in. In that case I used some neon yellow paint once I was comfortable with the tape mark.
Of course, I don't have issues lining up side to side in my garage so maybe I am just oversimplifying.
I do this too. Although I use a preexisting oil stain. ~2-3" from garage door every time.
I also adjusted my IR garage door crush sensor, to be the same height as the furthest reaching part of the nose cone. So my garage won't close when the car would get hit by the garage door.
Don't ask what happened when I parked front in (only once) and then tried to open my tailgate. Just always back into your garage.
santana338
Member
rickbecker
Member
When entering, I have clearance of 4.4 inches on each side but am still very careful when backing out. Once the mirrors clear the door frame I find that I am paranoid about scraping the fenders.:scared:
You can buy a plastic or rubber parking "mat" with two humps at any auto supply store. It's about 2' long and 1' wide. You place it where you want the front tire to be located. Just drive over the first hump and stop when you hit the 2nd hump. They tend to slide around after a while so I screwed mine down into small concrete anchors ($3 at hardware store) in the floor. You can walk on these mats without tripping unless you are clumsy.
That sounds like it fits!
I wouldn't let two inches or clearance deter me.
It was pretty harrowing.
Pics don't really do it justice. He couldn't even get out of the car because of the center pole. And the garage isn't easily modifiable for width or length.
(random photo from when we got our landscaping plants delivered.)
GregH
Member
I've used these for years. Cheap, no trip hazard, and quite effective;
http://www.autoanything.com/garage-accessories/69A1362A0A0.aspx
http://www.autoanything.com/garage-accessories/69A1362A0A0.aspx
paulkva
part of the supercharge.info dev team
Another option:
Camco 44442 RV AccuPark : Amazon.com : Automotive
They come in pairs; we use one per car.
At first I tried using them without the adhesive, and they did work sometimes, but they slid around a bit too much. I initially drew a chalk outline so I could reposition them when they slid, but now they're properly stuck on the garage floor.
Camco 44442 RV AccuPark : Amazon.com : Automotive
They come in pairs; we use one per car.
At first I tried using them without the adhesive, and they did work sometimes, but they slid around a bit too much. I initially drew a chalk outline so I could reposition them when they slid, but now they're properly stuck on the garage floor.
My curb is about 4 inches high. So a little shorter than curbs in parking lots. Only problem is the curb creeps forward over time. I have to reposition it every 2 or 3 months.
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I bought the cement curb many years ago at a yard supply store. Forgot which one. But you can also use straight planting bed curbs. When laid flat, they are only 2 or 3 inches tall. You can keep it from sliding forward by using a piece of the rubbery mat people put under carpets to keep them in place. Only issue is when the car is not in the garage, the curb is a tripping hazard if you are not paying attention.
Chuckling loudly...this also has the added benefit of keeping my annoying brother-in-law far away.
The Model S feels about the size of our previously owned Honda Odyssey in the garage. Actually seems just a tad longer so very limited space in our 2 car garage. Have to be careful opening and closing the door and can not do full extension on all 4 doors. I do have shelves built in on one side and a post in the middle of the garage. My garage door is a single car garage door. Car has no folded mirrors so have about 2+ inches of clearance on each side.
As for the proper parking depth in the garage, I used to dangle a tennis ball from the ceiling but found a much easier solution for all my cars. Just stick a bright colored tape to align it with the side mirror at the proper parking depth. Do this on the side of the mirror that is facing something close like the wall or any shelves. Been doing this for like 10 years on all my cars. Perfect parking depth every time
As for the proper parking depth in the garage, I used to dangle a tennis ball from the ceiling but found a much easier solution for all my cars. Just stick a bright colored tape to align it with the side mirror at the proper parking depth. Do this on the side of the mirror that is facing something close like the wall or any shelves. Been doing this for like 10 years on all my cars. Perfect parking depth every time
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CaptDaveHowe
Member
I tried. My garage is an attached one car garage, and I arranged it so that the MS would fit. However, the fit was so tight, that pulling in and out on a normal basis was just too difficult. Besides, once in opening the doors was tight. I ended up buying the Tesla cover, which actually is really good. It is easy get on and off, fits great and did not blow off in 50 mph winds. There are no strings or straps, just pull it over the car and you done. Takes about 30 seconds.
snort
Member
I use one of these too. It seems to move around a little every time I use it. I use the same floor space sometimes for projects that need the floor to be flat, so I used painters tape to mark the right spot on the floor so I could put it back in place easily, and once I was sure I had it right, replaced that with a mark from a permanent marker.
My dad solves the same problem (with a different type of car) with a tennis ball hanging from the ceiling of the garage so it hits his windshield when the car is in the right place.
The model S is too wide. I live in the city and there are lots of streets that are scary, and lots of parking spaces that are too tight. I was hoping the model 3 would be narrower, but only 4 inches. Counting the mirrors, the S is 15 inches wider than the '97 explorer I used to drive. With the mirrors out, I've got less than 2 inches clearance on each side in my garage entrance. Going in isn't so bad, but coming out is tricky.
--Snortybartfast
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