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Dual Wall Connector - Load Sharing Data Cable?

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Anyone that has setup dual Wall Connectors to load balance; What 'data cable' did you order? I understand from the PDF that it's as follows: 18 awg, 2 conductor shielded twisted pair cable.

I guess my best Google searching days is behind me as I'm not finding any direct hits and/or maybe don't know what the heck I'm doing. Anyone have a link for me? I need about 40 ft and my electrician asked me to have this ready for install.

Thank you in advance!
 
I ended up at Home Depot and bought the same wire for security cameras. Was cheap enough and was exactly what Tesla requested. I ordered off the bulk roll and asked for the exact amount that I needed.

There's a footnote in the manual to the effect of - if you run the data cable in the same conduit as the power feed, the insulation rating on the data cable must be equal or greater than the insulation rating on the power cables. Most signal cable has a 300v rating while THHN/THWN typically has a 600v rating, and thus can't be put in the same conduit. You either need something like the Belden 3088A linked in the other thread with a 600v rating, or run a separate 1/2 inch conduit for the signal cable, or it won't meet code.

I don't know what you bought at HD (or whether you used the same conduit), but for anyone else reading this, double check the voltage rating if you buy whatever's on the reel at the local home store and you're using one conduit for power and data.
 
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There's a footnote in the manual to the effect of - if you run the data cable in the same conduit as the power feed, the insulation rating on the data cable must be equal or greater than the insulation rating on the power cables. Most signal cable has a 300v rating while THHN/THWN typically has a 600v rating, and thus can't be put in the same conduit. You either need something like the Belden 3088A linked in the other thread with a 600v rating, or run a separate 1/2 inch conduit for the signal cable, or it won't meet code.

I don't know what you bought at HD (or whether you used the same conduit), but for anyone else reading this, double check the voltage rating if you buy whatever's on the reel at the local home store and you're using one conduit for power and data.

Yep, not only does my signal cable have the recommended rating, I also ran it in different conduit. So Im covered there.
 
Thank you for the info! I am running it in the same conduit so I will order the Beldan.

@Daniellane I saw your video as it answered 2 of my questions. 1. Could I fit a Wall Connector between my garage rail (8.5”), which you can, and load balancing.

So quick question on the load balancing with your S and 3. I have an X and a 3 going back to a dedicated 100amp circuit. Did you make your S the master and have the dial set to 72? I just got the X and currently the Wall Connector is set to 48, max for the 3.
 
Thank you for the info! I am running it in the same conduit so I will order the Beldan.

@Daniellane I saw your video as it answered 2 of my questions. 1. Could I fit a Wall Connector between my garage rail (8.5”), which you can, and load balancing.

So quick question on the load balancing with your S and 3. I have an X and a 3 going back to a dedicated 100amp circuit. Did you make your S the master and have the dial set to 72? I just got the X and currently the Wall Connector is set to 48, max for the 3.

Set the master HPWC to the max the breaker and power cable size will support (so assuming they used the right cable, 100A breaker / 80A derated load in your case). The car will draw the maximum the onboard charger can use as long as the HPWC is advertising at least that much. If you've got two HPWCs on the same circuit, it'll make any remainder available to the other connector.
 
Thank you for the info! I am running it in the same conduit so I will order the Beldan.

@Daniellane I saw your video as it answered 2 of my questions. 1. Could I fit a Wall Connector between my garage rail (8.5”), which you can, and load balancing.

So quick question on the load balancing with your S and 3. I have an X and a 3 going back to a dedicated 100amp circuit. Did you make your S the master and have the dial set to 72? I just got the X and currently the Wall Connector is set to 48, max for the 3.
I don’t have ease access to check right now. As I recall... The master (Model S) is set to 80 on the 100 amp circuit (80% of circuit)
The Model S limits the charging to 72.
The Model 3 is on the slave.
My guess is that if you set the master to 72 each car would only get 36 when they were both charging simultaneously.
I don’t really think it matters which car is where. I think it would behave the same way if I switched the cars around.
 
I made this video. also used some security wire from lowe's i believe.

Nice video! Thanks for posting!

A few comments/questions:

What kind of wire is it coming through the wall? Is that in conduit? Or is that NM cable (romex). If it is NM cable then it is only good to 40a continuous, not 48a. It is limited to the 60c limit.

Why did you chose to put two sets of wire in the first conduit rather than branching at the ceiling? Was it to limit number of splices? While that is a good idea in general, you now have four current carrying conductors in one conduit and have to de rate for that. Now you are probably still fine since it is all #6 gauge (I have not run the math), but it is something to be aware of. You actually could probably make an argument that you never have more than two current carrying conductors active at a time (or if both are active they are at half current), but I have not read those code sections (from a practical standpoint I would have absolutely zero concerns with this setup).

How come you twisted the wires together before pulling in the conduit? I don’t think that is recommended as it might risk damaging the wire during pulling and it fills the conduit more.

If you post pictures of your breaker panel and the stickers on the door we may be able to find you a breaker setup that will allow a 60a breaker. Might have to move a couple circuits around.

Note that the disconnect rule does not kick in until *over* 60a. I also contend that you can simply use a locking clip on the circuit breaker in most cases. The disconnect does not necessarily need to be in the garage. I have posted the code sections in multiple threads about this.

A question: You did a nice job on that offset bend out of the main junction box. So clearly you have access to a bender. How come you used factory 90’s then? I like how clean field bends are. Less couplers!

And finally, on the RS-485 - I have not read the Tesla instructions, but I have always been told in the past to only ground the shield wire on *one* end. If you ground on both ends it can create a ground loop which can cause interference in the signal wire. Also, if there was a fault of the high voltage wire you never want your low voltage wire being the current path. I doubt either will be an issue in this install since you have the conduit grounded and the ground wire, but still, best practices apply.

Nice job though! I want to be a two Tesla household!
 
So quick question on the load balancing with your S and 3. I have an X and a 3 going back to a dedicated 100amp circuit. Did you make your S the master and have the dial set to 72? I just got the X and currently the Wall Connector is set to 48, max for the 3.
There is nothing special as far as the amps or power levels about which one is designated as "master". From the cars' perspective, it will be transparent, and they can't tell a difference. The connectors, though, just have to have one designated as that to control the communication on the signal lines, so they don't conflict.
 
Set the master HPWC to the max the breaker and power cable size will support (so assuming they used the right cable, 100A breaker / 80A derated load in your case). The car will draw the maximum the onboard charger can use as long as the HPWC is advertising at least that much. If you've got two HPWCs on the same circuit, it'll make any remainder available to the other connector.

This. The DIP switches on the wall chargers have nothing to do with the cars. Their role is to tell the charger what the maximum amount of current that the circuit can deliver. Of that amount, let each car worry about what it takes.
 
Well I had my electrician install the second Wall Connector yesterday! This worked perfectly and I can confirm @Daniellane's video is exactly how mine is work between my X and 3!

Pretty slick! So happy that I prepared for a second Tesla on the original install!

Thank you again everyone who helped out with the data cable as we ran is in the same conduit as the power cables.
 
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