Ear pain/Pressure help

[ilovecoffee]

Here is an official temporary solution from tesla Chinese service center, which will reduce 5~10db sound at 30hz

View attachment 649878

View attachment 649879
View attachment 649880

Thanks for the above image.

I roughly traced it and made a 3D printable version.

I'm printing it in TPU now and will see how it fits in comparison and if it does anything. I could ask Tesla here in Canada but I doubt they will look into it and order the proper part.

I just don't have those rubber seals they added on the outside above the taillights, nor would I know where to find them in that size (aliexpress maybe?)

 

[Sudsington]

Thanks for the above image.

I roughly traced it and made a 3D printable version.

I'm printing it in TPU now and will see how it fits in comparison and if it does anything. I could ask Tesla here in Canada but I doubt they will look into it and order the proper part.

I just don't have those rubber seals they added on the outside above the taillights, nor would I know where to find them in that size (aliexpress maybe?)

I got this and it seems to be the right width for that part of the hatch area: https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B07GS57TX7

 

[ilovecoffee]

I got this and it seems to be the right width for that part of the hatch area: https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B07GS57TX7

I just ordered some from Aliexpress in 9mm, as that was the smallest I could find. Also learnt that it's called "Small D"

Just to clarify, did you add it to this location as Tesla service seemed to do?

 

[Sudsington]

I just ordered some from Aliexpress in 9mm, as that was the smallest I could find. Also learnt that it's called "Small D"

Just to clarify, did you add it to this location as Tesla service seemed to do?

Yup, that's where I laid the strips. Not sure how much of a difference it made, because I made a few other modifications at the same time. I did double-check that it contacted the hatch when closed with the soap-water method.

 

[MY-Y]

Keep in mind that my original solution was custom fit to my car. I think 1/8" too short and it won't work at all. You could use a 3d printed part that was a bit short and use felt chair feet (or something like that) to fine tune. My rigid stops are pushing pretty hard when closed.

 

[ram4kz]

Thanks for the above image.

I roughly traced it and made a 3D printable version.

I'm printing it in TPU now and will see how it fits in comparison and if it does anything. I could ask Tesla here in Canada but I doubt they will look into it and order the proper part.

I just don't have those rubber seals they added on the outside above the taillights, nor would I know where to find them in that size (aliexpress maybe?)

my Y is China version with those fixes but unfortunately the low frequency noise is still significant. I think MY-Y’s rigid stop may work better.

 

[ilovecoffee]

my Y is China version with those fixes but unfortunately the low frequency noise is still significant. I think MY-Y’s rigid stop may work better.

Good to note. Maybe I'll just stop while I'm ahead.

I've 3d printed rigid stops in pretty rigid TPU. It is vastly improved, was hoping I could improve it more. I will need to do more messing around though because when it's the best result acoustically, the hatch panel gap is quite significant. I've probably tested 20 different depth measurements of that hatch stop.

My next step is foam blocks in the rear quarter and deadener/butyl and mass-loaded vinyl across the back hatch. Hope to get it done this week.

 

[MY-Y]

Butyl and foam in the quarters helped me. Butyl and foam on the hatch didn't. Butyl there will stop it from opening automatically.

 

[ilovecoffee]

Butyl and foam in the quarters helped me. Butyl and foam on the hatch didn't. Butyl there will stop it from opening automatically.

So I've read from your previous posts! I'm going to put some sheets resting on my hatch (or temporarily tape them) and see how it opens with various weights on it, so I know how many sheets it can reasonably hold.

 

[ilovecoffee]

So here's my attempt at that Tesla part. I'm not a CAD master by the way LOL. Yes, it could have been a little less wide, but more or less fits perfectly in that angled area and stays put even without double-sided adhesive. It's made with TPU and it's fairly squishy. I can tell it does push the door outwards in that direction ever so slightly. I'm not sure if it has much of an effect though? I'd recommend printing this with TPU though, I feel the intent is the original Tesla part is made to bend.

Also Tesla here in Canada cannot seem to find this part or technical bulletin.

Here it is on Tinkercad if someone wants to make use of it.

3D design Tesla Hatch Noise Dampener - Tinkercad

3D design Tesla Hatch Noise Dampener created by Matthew K with Tinkercad

www.tinkercad.com

https://imgur.com/khmufka

 

[ilovecoffee]

Further update.

I bought a sound meter with A/C weighting

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B01F74C722/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

On snow tires (road force balanced at 42psi) with my car properly tuned (with 3d printed rigid hatch stops) without any soundproofing other than a rear trunk cover, I am getting around:

(windy day)
Highway ~ 110km/hr (~70mph) asphalt: 87dB c-weighted (61.5dB a-weighted)
Highway ~ 110km/hr (~70mph) concrete: 95dB c-weighted
City ~ 60-70km/hr (~37-43mph) asphalt: 81-83dB c-weighted

It's pretty good, especially the a-weighted number on the highway. Bumps and bad roads are still annoying though. I will be installing soundproofing and foam bass traps later today and hopefully I can completely eliminate any booms altogether.

 

[dasmittyman]

That doesn't seem like a large DB difference? I don't remember but I thought the DB levels were around 95 without any changes. Do you have a shot of what your hatch looks like closed? Does it stick out at all'?

 

[ilovecoffee]

That doesn't seem like a large DB difference? I don't remember but I thought the DB levels were around 95 without any changes. Do you have a shot of what your hatch looks like closed? Does it stick out at all'?

Sorry I didn't grab a shot of what my hatch looks like closed. I still have to tinker with it after applying sound deadening material, as I think the hatch has some extra weight now. Unfortunately, it seems the bigger the panel gap along the side, the more reduction in booming. The gap is bigger than stock but not ginormous.

 

[MY-Y]

Rigid stops, lowered catch, no boominess, no rumble, no gap.

 

[ilovecoffee]

So to update:

I applied Kilmat 80mil sound deadening Butyl to both rear quarters (about 2 layers), the sub trunk and a little bit to the hatch. I also put a little bit of MLV in the subtrunk.

I also put in some foam "bass traps" in the rear quarter panels as Sandy Munro found in his Y, but these foam blocks were not in mine just like others here have found to not have the foam.


Inside driver side quarter panel facing towards front of vehicle

Inside the inner hatch, applied some deadener here as well fwiw as there are some long-spanning panels.

"bass traps" more meant for corners in a room, but seemed similar to what Sandy Munro found, I put them in as squares in the rear quarters, and a couple extra here and there including a couple in the hatch itself, figured it couldn't hurt.

Findings:

The panels themselves sound much less tinny when knocking them from the outside (as expected). I didn't apply that much Butyl to my hatch and even tested raising it with several sheets of it on the glass no problem. However strangely after applying what must have been only 4 sheets to the hatch, it's quite slow to open-- I hope it's still going to open in Canadian winters!!!

Driving? The boominess is marginally improved. It's not completely eliminated. Overall I'd say I'm disappointed with the amount of work it required (about 3 hours).

My dB measurements might have improved only 2 dB on c-weighted measurements.

 

[ilovecoffee]

Rigid stops, lowered catch, no boominess, no rumble, no gap.View attachment 740358

I'd say my gap looks identical, and I felt like this is more than stock, or what I'm seeing on other Ys. But I think you will have to have this in order to get rid of boominess.

 

[Sudsington]

Further update.

I bought a sound meter with A/C weighting

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B01F74C722/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

On snow tires (road force balanced at 42psi) with my car properly tuned (with 3d printed rigid hatch stops) without any soundproofing other than a rear trunk cover, I am getting around:

(windy day)
Highway ~ 110km/hr (~70mph) asphalt: 87dB c-weighted (61.5dB a-weighted)
Highway ~ 110km/hr (~70mph) concrete: 95dB c-weighted
City ~ 60-70km/hr (~37-43mph) asphalt: 81-83dB c-weighted

It's pretty good, especially the a-weighted number on the highway. Bumps and bad roads are still annoying though. I will be installing soundproofing and foam bass traps later today and hopefully I can completely eliminate any booms altogether.

Have you tried measuring the decibels after removing the rigid hatch stops for comparison? Or did you have a basal measurement earlier in the thread (couldn't find it)?

 

[ilovecoffee]

Have you tried measuring the decibels after removing the rigid hatch stops for comparison? Or did you have a basal measurement earlier in the thread (couldn't find it)?

I didn't have that measuring tool at the time. And I couldn't find an Android app that provided comparison abilities.

Now that I have the tool I could remove them to compare the difference if I find the time.

 

[Sudsington]

I didn't have that measuring tool at the time. And I couldn't find an Android app that provided comparison abilities.

Now that I have the tool I could remove them to compare the difference if I find the time.

Thanks for the info. I was just curious if you had made a previous measurement, the post-install measurements are very useful.

 

[PecuniaNonOlet]

Just dropping in to say a few things.

I wanted to echo gundarx's observation that butyl "cures" or "hardens" over time. Sounds handwavy but if you hit the road right after installing the butyl (I assume you rolled it down good onto the metal), you might actually find the boomboom improved somewhat later. Personally, I'm not sure whether my boom improved after time for curing. But it certainly didn't get any worse. In other words, if you told me the butyl curing thing is real, I'd believe you. Also, butyl rubber is apparently the same thing as chewing gum. Ever noticed how, when you spit out gum and leave it there, it gets hard after a while?

Which brings me to my next point. This past year I've been impressed again and again how much human perception of volume is relative. So if you hear the boom, then you make the whole car quieter (including the boom), then the boom may sound the same to yours ears, even though it's objectively quieter. Why does this matter? I'm almost always listening to music when I'm driving. It's rare that I notice the boom anymore after installing sound deadening like others in this thread. But if the music is off for whatever reason - boom! It's back.

Unfortunately I don't think it's going to be possible to totally silence such a heavy, cavernous vehicle that wasn't even designed as an SUV in the first place (it's a Model 3 with the vertical dimension extended). Only thing I could suggest at this point is gundarx-style insulation of the wheel wells, since he reported further reduction in noise from doing so. On the other hand, as I said, maybe if you insulate the wheel wells, you will reduce higher frequency road noise, which will make the boomboom seem louder to you. Could be counterproductive, in other words, and a lot of work just to find out you made it worse.

Edit: One last thing I forgot to mention. I am 100% sure that the boom heavily depends on the road surface. Ensure you're controlling where you test. On some roads within a few miles of my house, my car is totally silent. Others it's pure hell. Seems to have to do with the texture of the road surface more than the material it's made of, but I'm less sure about that. I'm interested to compare noise level on the hell surfaces when it's time for new tires.