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Ear pain/Pressure help
- Thread starter justobuf
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- sound proofing
Curious what the "Added cargo mass to the Model Y" is in the future update.
electrek.co
Tesla Model 3 and Model Y new features and changes leak through test program
A bunch of new features and changes coming to the Tesla Model 3 and Model Y have leaked through a...
electrek.co
ilovecoffee
Member
So update to my sound deadening (sorry no pics was short on time)
I added butyl directly to the wheel well underneath the stock foam cover (I don't know why I never lifted that foam cover before)
I covered it extremely well and added about 3 to 4 layers. I also added into the sunken side storage areas as well.
This seems to have had the most impact. Doing exterior facing panels seemed to accomplish very little. Now with the wheel wells covered minor road bumps don't result in any large low frequency noise. I don't have any direct frequency spectrum graphs to show. dB meter doesn't seem to acknowledge the difference that I'm able to perceive as I'd say numbers are more or less the same, nothing significant in changes. It's definitely worthwhile of an area if you're going to soundproof anywhere.
I added butyl directly to the wheel well underneath the stock foam cover (I don't know why I never lifted that foam cover before)
I covered it extremely well and added about 3 to 4 layers. I also added into the sunken side storage areas as well.
This seems to have had the most impact. Doing exterior facing panels seemed to accomplish very little. Now with the wheel wells covered minor road bumps don't result in any large low frequency noise. I don't have any direct frequency spectrum graphs to show. dB meter doesn't seem to acknowledge the difference that I'm able to perceive as I'd say numbers are more or less the same, nothing significant in changes. It's definitely worthwhile of an area if you're going to soundproof anywhere.
Thanks for this update! I skipped putting the butyl under those covers since they seemed really beefy. I'll go back and cover those areas next time I decide to tackle this again.
ilovecoffee
Member
Just be mindful not to add too much height where the subwoofer meets near the Amp and screws in.
I added too many sheets and couldn't get that hole to line up afterwards. I still secured it pretty damn well though with just the 2 side screws, it doesn't budge at all. But if I could go back I would've put only one layer in that area on the lower side of the wheel well facing the rear.
Does that just lift off? I put butyl and foam all around there, but not under that thick OEM black molded foam. I'd like less tire noise; low frequency noise is no longer an issue in my car. Here's what my driver's side looks like:
ilovecoffee
Member
Yep it just lifts off. Nothing is really holding it, it just slots into 2 holes.
There is a wiring harness that goes through the bottom on each side but you can bend most that piece out of your way leaving the wiring in place.
Then your left the big beautiful wheel well to attach sound deadening material and put that foam piece back on top.
ilovecoffee
Member
Just amazon.
If you're going to put any foam bass traps in there don't overload it like I did. I think I made it worse at first. Now I just have one smaller piece in there which doesn't impede airflow through the bumper vent.
ilovecoffee
Member
Not my Y below, but a comment left on my Thingiverse 3d printed hatch stop, this person had done deadening in this location. I had put considerably more on top of that wheel well...like...considerably. My body hurts today from bending inside there to roll everything down 
Here you can watch Sandy Munro take off that foam piece:
And just a note:
Here you can watch Sandy Munro take off that foam piece:
And just a note:
ilovecoffee
Member
What do you guys think of fishing rigid vinyl tubing inside the rubber gasket of the trunk seal. It would reduce the compression/movement of this piece.
All you've got to do is make the rigid stops I showed. $2 and a bit of time and you're done.
ilovecoffee
Member
Hey guys,
Updating this thread with some further experimentation. I think I have solved this issue once and for all, way better results than rigid hatch stops alone (although I still am using them). It has completely eliminated most harsh bump "booms". For the record, I also do have sound deadening material on my rear wheel wells. But I still noticed a big difference. Your hatch stops will need re-adjusting after doing this. Honestly, this is the best result I've noticed post-install. The only downside risk to trying is that you will have 2 slightly enlarged air holes in your rubber seal, meh, no biggie.
It's a 3/8" (or 9.53mm) vinyl tube (minimum about 15' length needed) It's fairly rigid and hard to compress with your fingers.
You remember the famous envelope YouTube video right? Well, if all that noise and pressure is coming from the seal moving, why not reduce movement of the seal? So that's what I did.
(Illustration only) I cut the tube so that it had a triangular end, and covered it with electrical tape so as to not puncture the rubber seal from the inside as I fished it through. I just sprayed it with 303 Aerospace as I slid it in (to make it slippery, spray wax would work too).
3 separate sections were necessary, I wanted it as one piece, but no matter how hard I tried, I couldn't get either that red or blue line to continue along the bottom.
Way more rigid now
It does add a bit to the gap, but it isn't bad. Not super tight but still waterproof (I car wash tested it)
Updating this thread with some further experimentation. I think I have solved this issue once and for all, way better results than rigid hatch stops alone (although I still am using them). It has completely eliminated most harsh bump "booms". For the record, I also do have sound deadening material on my rear wheel wells. But I still noticed a big difference. Your hatch stops will need re-adjusting after doing this. Honestly, this is the best result I've noticed post-install. The only downside risk to trying is that you will have 2 slightly enlarged air holes in your rubber seal, meh, no biggie.
It's a 3/8" (or 9.53mm) vinyl tube (minimum about 15' length needed) It's fairly rigid and hard to compress with your fingers.
You remember the famous envelope YouTube video right? Well, if all that noise and pressure is coming from the seal moving, why not reduce movement of the seal? So that's what I did.
(Illustration only) I cut the tube so that it had a triangular end, and covered it with electrical tape so as to not puncture the rubber seal from the inside as I fished it through. I just sprayed it with 303 Aerospace as I slid it in (to make it slippery, spray wax would work too).
3 separate sections were necessary, I wanted it as one piece, but no matter how hard I tried, I couldn't get either that red or blue line to continue along the bottom.
Way more rigid now
It does add a bit to the gap, but it isn't bad. Not super tight but still waterproof (I car wash tested it)
ilovecoffee
Member
I've updated with some results here comparing a stock model Y.
These are honest to God the worst roads in my area and going 20km/hr on them does no justice LOL
But you'll see the stock Y has a brighter section on the low frequency side, with some more highlights on the low frequency bumps indicated by long horizontal lines stretching to the left of the graph
ALSO, as an update, my friend's Y which eventually we did this modification to as well (sorry no after video), the 3/8" OD actually resulted in a larger panel gap AND it had trouble closing at first (which is odd, since mine had zero issues). Hatch closing resolved itself after a few slams shut implying the tube had to be squished into place or something. So I suggest perhaps starting with 5/16" or 1/4" OD if you're going to attempt this. 1/4" OD may have less of an impact.
These are honest to God the worst roads in my area and going 20km/hr on them does no justice LOL
But you'll see the stock Y has a brighter section on the low frequency side, with some more highlights on the low frequency bumps indicated by long horizontal lines stretching to the left of the graph
ALSO, as an update, my friend's Y which eventually we did this modification to as well (sorry no after video), the 3/8" OD actually resulted in a larger panel gap AND it had trouble closing at first (which is odd, since mine had zero issues). Hatch closing resolved itself after a few slams shut implying the tube had to be squished into place or something. So I suggest perhaps starting with 5/16" or 1/4" OD if you're going to attempt this. 1/4" OD may have less of an impact.
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Thank you for reaching out to me, I have since left the forum as I sold the car and couldn't deal with the boominess and the loud wind noise of the car. I went back to an ICE luxury suv. I will be looking at luxury SUV EV's in the future. I miss a lot of things on the Y but if it's not enjoyable to drive, you seem to dread it.
As for the things you've done above except for the tubing which is a genius idea, I will tell you it will not work for the boominess. It will work to reduce road noise, especially on the highway. I've put DOUBLE butyl on the wheel wells inside AND outside. On top of the butyl I put closed cell foam. All of this can be bought from Amazon under the brand Noico.
If I were to get a new Y I probably would do this all over again just for a quieter car. The solid stops helped the boominess somewhat but was still there. One thing this car needs is active noise cancellation, which it doesn't have. I read a post on this site that a new model S owner sold or thought about selling the brand new S because of the crazy road noise.
Advice:
Don't put too much butyl on the trunk hatch as the strut is really weak, if you put your fingers on it with slight pressure while opening, it will stop.
As for the things you've done above except for the tubing which is a genius idea, I will tell you it will not work for the boominess. It will work to reduce road noise, especially on the highway. I've put DOUBLE butyl on the wheel wells inside AND outside. On top of the butyl I put closed cell foam. All of this can be bought from Amazon under the brand Noico.
If I were to get a new Y I probably would do this all over again just for a quieter car. The solid stops helped the boominess somewhat but was still there. One thing this car needs is active noise cancellation, which it doesn't have. I read a post on this site that a new model S owner sold or thought about selling the brand new S because of the crazy road noise.
Advice:
Don't put too much butyl on the trunk hatch as the strut is really weak, if you put your fingers on it with slight pressure while opening, it will stop.
dduffey
Member
It seems like Tesla has the engineering and material expertise where they could really make their cars the quietest on the road if they wanted. No ICE could match it and it could be a competitive advantage to other EVs.
