Firmware 7.1

[bradhs]

I've seen both of these forms of false positives, and they've increased more in recent 7.1 updates. It looks to me like a response to the various AP videos showing Teslas rear-ending an offset-parked/stopped car, and presumably other nonpublicized accidents involving Teslas scraping nearby vehicles.

The car seems very biased (skiddish even) towards assuming a nearby car is in your lane.

I'm hoping that the 8.0 update (particularly the bullet point about offsetting itself when a overtaken car is close to the lane line) alleviates a lot of this. I find that the MobilEye camera in its current form is not great at identifying the attitude or position of cars in adjacent lanes versus your current lane. That might be one of many reasons for the shift towards the radar being primary.

I rarely get this issue, by rare I mean about once a week. I'm usually on 1 or 2, anything else is too far from the lead car for my taste.

 

[msnow]

I'm getting a lot of false positives and have the opposite reflex of hovering my foot over the accelerator (instead of the brake) pedal to compensate for the unwanted slowdowns, which can be pretty abrupt at times.

I hope you're fresh and well rested for the 8.0 update. I'm expecting videos with commentary ASAP.

 

[S100D]

Why go through the trouble. Just get any volt-meter equipped USB charger and connect it to the 12V plug inside. Here is one (of MANY) available ones: https://www.amazon.com/Efanr-Universal-Ports-Rapid-Charger/dp/B00V7XN8C6

Whitex, my message was to hook up a 12 volt battery charger to the Tesla 12 volt battery not a charger to charge cell phone, etc. I already have one of those in the 12 volt socket in the console. Sounds like I did not add enough information.. My Bad...

 

[whitex]

Whitex, my message was to hook up a 12 volt battery charger to the Tesla 12 volt battery not a charger to charge cell phone, etc. I already have one of those in the 12 volt socket in the console. Sounds like I did not add enough information.. My Bad...

Lol, total communication breakdown. I thought you just wanted to monitor the status of the 12V battery. Now that you've clarified, why do you want a charger connected to the 12V battery? If you need to revive a dead battery, jumper cables under the nosecone should do ( no need for the Amazon gizmo). If you're planning to regularly "top it off" here is something to consider: the 12V battery in a Model S (and probably Model X) is charged from the main car battery when needed. The car monitors the state of the 12V battery, and if needed it will charge it up from the main Li-Ion battery. If there are too many 12V charge cycles in some period of time, you will get a warning about battery possibly needing replacement (can happen if you leave something power hungry connected to an unswitched 12V too, I have a dashcam always on but it doesn't trigger any warnings). Bottom line, you should never need a manual "top off" of the 12V battery unless your battery died and you need to jump-start the car. If your battery is dying, get a new battery rather than recharge it manually on regular basis.

 

[Cyclone]

Lol, total communication breakdown. I thought you just wanted to monitor the status of the 12V battery. Now that you've clarified, why do you want a charger connected to the 12V battery? If you need to revive a dead battery, jumper cables under the nosecone should do ( no need for the Amazon gizmo). If you're planning to regularly "top it off" here is something to consider: the 12V battery in a Model S (and probably Model X) is charged from the main car battery when needed. The car monitors the state of the 12V battery, and if needed it will charge it up from the main Li-Ion battery. If there are too many 12V charge cycles in some period of time, you will get a warning about battery possibly needing replacement (can happen if you leave something power hungry connected to an unswitched 12V too, I have a dashcam always on but it doesn't trigger any warnings). Bottom line, you should never need a manual "top off" of the 12V battery unless your battery died and you need to jump-start the car. If your battery is dying, get a new battery rather than recharge it manually on regular basis.

You may want to peruse this thread and put your comments in there for a more thorough discussion as to why some are 'planning to regularly "top it off"'.
Near annual replacement of 12V battery is typical according to Tesla Service Tech

 

[MarcG]

I hope you're fresh and well rested for the 8.0 update. I'm expecting videos with commentary ASAP.

Haha you know it! Just waiting for the magical "software update available" notification to pop up

 

[zambono]

Lol, total communication breakdown. I thought you just wanted to monitor the status of the 12V battery. Now that you've clarified, why do you want a charger connected to the 12V battery? If you need to revive a dead battery, jumper cables under the nosecone should do ( no need for the Amazon gizmo). If you're planning to regularly "top it off" here is something to consider: the 12V battery in a Model S (and probably Model X) is charged from the main car battery when needed. The car monitors the state of the 12V battery, and if needed it will charge it up from the main Li-Ion battery. If there are too many 12V charge cycles in some period of time, you will get a warning about battery possibly needing replacement (can happen if you leave something power hungry connected to an unswitched 12V too, I have a dashcam always on but it doesn't trigger any warnings). Bottom line, you should never need a manual "top off" of the 12V battery unless your battery died and you need to jump-start the car. If your battery is dying, get a new battery rather than recharge it manually on regular basis.

Issues with the 12v are known although seem less regular now.

 

[Saghost]

Issues with the 12v are known although seem less regular now.

I think that's probably because the D cars (and presumably the X) have a significantly larger 12V battery relocated to the upper rear of the Frunk instead of the tiny battery in the fender.

I'm guessing that the refresh made that standard across all Ss, since they now all have the smaller Frunk.

 

[msnow]

Haha you know it! Just waiting for the magical "software update available" notification to pop up

Looks like next Wednesday.
Twitter

 

[Nikki's Dad]

To kill time waiting for 8.0 I decided to look into just how often updates are rolled out and with what volume. Mining the data gathered by the Firmware Upgrade tracker developed by dirkhh and hanklloydright, I was able to develop the attached chart. The big spike in the middle is 2.7.56 (introduced Autosteer).

 

[Ingineer]

I think that's probably because the D cars (and presumably the X) have a significantly larger 12V battery relocated to the upper rear of the Frunk instead of the tiny battery in the fender.

I'm guessing that the refresh made that standard across all Ss, since they now all have the smaller Frunk.

There is no change in battery size, but it's true in D and refresh cars, it's relocated. Sometime in 2013 they switched to the red C&D AGM instead of the crappy gray gel-cells they used in the early cars.

 

[Ingineer]

I assume that the two connectors go to the battery jumper posts behind the nose cone. Do you need to drill holes in the Frunk tub to get the CTEK indicator panel inside the Frunk? What is the best way to accomplish this?

I you are doing a permanent install, it's best to go right to the battery instead of trying to use the jump posts. You definitely don't want to do anything more than a slow charge to the battery unless you go directly do it, otherwise the charge current will go through the IBS (Battery current sensor) and confuse the gateway.

 

[Ingineer]

VisibleTesla and probably other third party apps can pickup the firmware version assuming the SvC didn't turn off Remote Access to the car as they have been doing lately.

The remote API supports query of the active version, not the staged version. Once a new version is staged, you get the alert, but not until it's deployed do you get the version string updated.

 

[Saghost]

There is no change in battery size, but it's true in D and refresh cars, it's relocated. Sometime in 2013 they switched to the red C&D AGM instead of the crappy gray gel-cells they used in the early cars.

Are you sure? I haven't had either one in my hand, but in the pictures the D ones look significantly different (and larger.) It could be an illusion or faulty memory, I guess.

 

[Ingineer]

Are you sure? I haven't had either one in my hand, but in the pictures the D ones look significantly different (and larger.) It could be an illusion or faulty memory, I guess.

Absolutely. I've had some may cars apart, I've lost count. I have a stack of bad batteries in my shop waiting to be recycled, I am 100% sure.

 

[msnow]

The remote API supports query of the active version, not the staged version. Once a new version is staged, you get the alert, but not until it's deployed do you get the version string updated.

Right but I thought he got the "update installed" notification and wanted to know which version was on there. I could be wrong.

 

[Ingineer]

Here's my short review (so far) on 8.0 (this thread is technically the wrong place to post it!): https://teslamotorsclub.com/tmc/posts/1735143/

 

[S100D]

I you are doing a permanent install, it's best to go right to the battery instead of trying to use the jump posts. You definitely don't want to do anything more than a slow charge to the battery unless you go directly do it, otherwise the charge current will go through the IBS (Battery current sensor) and confuse the gateway.

Ingineer, thanks for the advice on going directly to the battery. I have the CTEK 4.3 charger and the CTEK Comfort Indicator Panel:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00Q41U5XG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

If I connect the Comfort Indicator Panel to the battery, how would you recommend getting the wires into the Frunk? If I drill a hole in the Frunk to get the indicator panel in the Frunk, the Frunk could not be removed without removing the wires to the battery.

I will check to see if I can route the wires under the Frunk to the front of the car so I can reach the connector below the nose cone. Any suggestions you have would be appreciated.

Thanks!

 

[green1]

If I connect the Comfort Indicator Panel to the battery, how would you recommend getting the wires into the Frunk? If I drill a hole in the Frunk to get the indicator panel in the Frunk, the Frunk could not be removed without removing the wires to the battery.

removing the frunk is a pretty rare thing to need to do, so you're probably ok, especially if it's on disconnects.

I will check to see if I can route the wires under the Frunk to the front of the car so I can reach the connector below the nose cone.

Under would be awkward, but it's easy to route around the frunk the side panels just pop up (no tools required) and you can run wires around easily.

 

[wart]

After being stuck at 2.28.19 for nearly 2 months I got 2.36.31 this morning (just entered into tracker). It's interesting to me that Tesla appears to be doing a fairly wide release of a 7.1 update with 8.0 possibly coming in less than a week. Could there be something they need to prepare before the new major version? Do they need to update the installer so it can install the update?

No significant release notes with 2.28.19 and I didn't notice any changes in behavior during my brief drive this morning.