RogerHScott
Active Member
Does anyone have any specifics on what's different between the widely deployed 3.16.17 and the (so far) much more sparsely deployed 3.16.31? Are some people still getting .17 at this point, or are all new updates .31?
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Does anyone have any specifics on what's different between the widely deployed 3.16.17 and the (so far) much more sparsely deployed 3.16.31? Are some people still getting .17 at this point, or are all new updates .31?
That's how I know what the relative distributions are , but it doesn't (seem to?) provide any info about the content of each update.I don't know the differences but I'm sure the tracker can tell you who is getting what.
The challenge is, all Tesla officially provides are the release notes, which dont even change with many of the dot releases. (Which is too bad IMHO, to at least not go to the next level with say how Apple, Microsoft, etc do business.) The only way to find what I'd call "the bigger ticket items" that Tesla does not specify is by reading this thread. Some people some times go through a parallel capture of the code and determine which modules are affected, which adds to the speculation of what's been touched, but honesty, no one outside of Tesla Engineering really knows for a fact all that may be changed.That's how I know what the relative distributions are , but it doesn't (seem to?) provide any info about the content of each update.
Yup, I already do this but in an old-fashioned manual mode. Photos of each screen, then a side-by-side visual compare in Lightroom of both versions to see if anything changed. Ahahahaha. Some of us (at least me) are too obsessive with some of this I believe!Ok, clearly what we need to do here is take photos of the screen showing the release notes, do OCR on those photos, and then diff (*) those from update to update
(*) -- "diff" is a computer program that tells you how one text document differs from another [for those following along who aren't total computer geeks]
Perhaps, though most products don't require advanced forensics and archaeology training to divine their function...Some of us (at least me) are too obsessive with some of this I believe!
Yup, I already do this but in an old-fashioned manual mode. Photos of each screen, then a side-by-side visual compare in Lightroom of both versions to see if anything changed. Ahahahaha. Some of us (at least me) are too obsessive with some of this I believe!
Perhaps, though most products don't require advance forensics and archaeology training to divine their function...
Maybe adding more cowbells in the latest Rainbow Road Easter Egg as Elon promised in his tweet...Does anyone have any specifics on what's different between the widely deployed 3.16.17 and the (so far) much more sparsely deployed 3.16.31? Are some people still getting .17 at this point, or are all new updates .31?
I used to get a full screen camera with the car in reverse. Now it's only half. This is definitely different.Right, as Andy suggested, this has been around for a while. The display comes up in reverse and only shows distances when the first warning comes up showing distance. When things are beyond the range of the ultrasonics, no distances are shown.
Interesting. I've always had half-screen camera with the car in reverse, from firmware 4.something in 2013 thru 7.1 today. It's always the top half of the screen.I used to get a full screen camera with the car in reverse. Now it's only half. This is definitely different.
I found this thread from Feb that seems to indicate it's a bug. Will reboot and see if that fixes it.
What's this new thing?? Split image backup camera?
I used to get a full screen camera with the car in reverse. Now it's only half. This is definitely different.
I found this thread from Feb that seems to indicate it's a bug. Will reboot and see if that fixes it.
Interesting, now you have the problem from the thread you pointed out earlier.It got worse after rebooting. idk.
It got worse after rebooting. idk.
Jennifer, this sort of problem with "the bottom on the top" of the rear camera occurred once to me shortly after delivery. It did not go away with changing size of the window, it's location, or by a quick reboot while driving. I still don't understand the difference (if there is one), but suggest you ensure you keep the brake pedal down while you do the two-button push for the 17" reboot and don't let your foot off the brake until the 17" comes back on. (An alternative is to cause MS to actually power-down via the eBrake/Power-off option on the 17" -- foot off the brake; keep MS off for at least 2-3 minutes; then press the brake pedal to restart MS which will reboot in the process.) My problem resolved with the brake+reboot process and I've not encountered it since. Good luck.It got worse after rebooting. idk.