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Front Collision TESLA P85. Repair and Troubleshooting Help Needed.

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Also, as for the door handle, the trigger switch is likely just needing adjustment. When the motor extends the handle, the switch triggers because it thinks someone is pulling on it.

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13.6v is the default output from the DC-DC in the event no CAN bus is present. I was hoping to see something higher, indicating Absorption phase. Is the CAN bus connected properly?

I checked the Voltage on the 12V battery, it is 13.9V for the first second, and then it drops to around 13.6V, sometimes to 13.3V and raising up to 13.6V. I didnt see 14V+ on it thou. I dont know why, but this is what I see.
 
I checked the Voltage on the 12V battery, it is 13.9V for the first second, and then it drops to around 13.6V, sometimes to 13.3V and raising up to 13.6V. I didnt see 14V+ on it thou. I dont know why, but this is what I see.

Well, if it exceeded 13.6, then it's definitely under control of the BMS. The variance convinces me it's running under the algorithm. Make sure the battery terminals are tight and nothing is loose on any of the other heavy connections.

If your 3G is shut off, then it's likely Tesla isn't going to disable your car, but you could pull the SIM card just to be safe. You have to take a lot apart to get to it though!
 
Funny thing is that my rear passenger door always opens by itself. I cant tell exactly when it started to happen, but i noticed it right after bodywork was done to the car. So basically when the 12V battery was disconnected, and as soon as i connect the 12V battery door opens. When i sit in the car press Brake, door opens. I can close it every time as right now, but definitely will have to fix it.

This happened to me a couple times. Tesla replaced all the door handles. Do you have the newer door handles that open and then go in a couple millimeters? or ones that just stay fully extended? If it's the fully extended ones, then you might try asking Tesla to give you the new style ones.
 
Yauheni is on a camping trip. We're going to try a few experiments when he gets back, We'll post the results.

I'm not going to spend a lot of time documenting the diagnostics, that would take more time than I've already spent. I'd rather help someone else with that precious time. Besides, each case is going to be different.

If someone else wants to summarize the posts, go right ahead. I don't think is a good use of resources though.
 
I didnt try yet to put it on supercharge because i need to charge it up first before going to supercharge station. I will try it after wall charger will be installed.

I dont know if the process summary will help much, because each case is different. However the thread has some problems and solutions.

We are trying another experiment here, but it may take some time. If we make it work, i will def let you all know.

Good weekend!!!
 
One more thing!

Finally my Wall Charger was installed last night. It was something that i was waiting for a long time. So last night I was able to charge my Tesla @ 80A Wall Charger from about 60 miles to 200+ miles range, and then I stopped. The reason because it was very very noisy, the fans were spinning really fast, at full speed for a long time. I Was afraid something may go wrong. I dont know exactly why it was that noisy, possibly that my AC is not charged yet, so it was trying to cool down and couldnt ?! Not Sure.

Anyways, Now I got enough charge to go to SuperCharging station just to try if its going to supercharge or not, before we do any other experiments.

Still waiting on some little parts that I need for my Tesla. It takes time. For some reason Tesla parts shipping got much much slower than few months ago.

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I'd wait and charge your AC system before doing any supercharging. Or at least do it on a cold day. Looks like you were charging when it was 94 degrees, would make sense that the car was unable to cool the pack and charging equipment as well as it should have been able too. I'd imagine though that it would be smart enough to shut down charging if anything got to hot. Did you notice if it charged at the full amperage for the whole time? I know ours sometimes drops the amps, but that may be because the UMC is getting too hot, not the car.