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Front Collision TESLA P85. Repair and Troubleshooting Help Needed.
- Thread starter Yauheni
- Start date
So you are connecting the system w/o the 225A fuse and it goes into drive mode ok while connected to the truck? What happens when you put the fuse back in, keep it connected to the truck, turn the car on, then disconnect the truck? Check the voltage then and see if it stays high.
So today I performed many other tests which proved that my dc-dc doesnt charge the battery. Not when battery is good, not when its low, not when its on jumper cables, not when car drives. It doesnt charge. WHY? I dont know. Maybe software, maybe something else. Not sure. Was worried that my ground was bad, but seems like its alright. Got stuck with this issue, and dont know where to go next.
So you had to replace the small 6 pin connector that plugs into the DC-DC, correct? Are you 100% sure you got all the wires connected, and in the right place?
Here's the pinout:
Pins 1 & 2; Red & Dark Blue: CAN bus.
Pin 4 is Red with Black: Enable line.
Pins 5 & 6; Yellow with Dark Blue & Yellow with Dark Gray: High Voltage interlock, if these were not right, you'd never get contactor closure.
You could check pin 4 to be sure the BMS is enabling the DC-DC.
The other thing that could be messing you up is the battery intelligent module which is attached to the negative post. Make sure that's connected properly and all wires are good.
Here's the pinout:
Pins 1 & 2; Red & Dark Blue: CAN bus.
Pin 4 is Red with Black: Enable line.
Pins 5 & 6; Yellow with Dark Blue & Yellow with Dark Gray: High Voltage interlock, if these were not right, you'd never get contactor closure.
You could check pin 4 to be sure the BMS is enabling the DC-DC.
The other thing that could be messing you up is the battery intelligent module which is attached to the negative post. Make sure that's connected properly and all wires are good.
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spaceballs
Member
Since you re-placed the broken DC-DC with another, I would have taken both of them apart, and then see if I could swap the brains of the broken one into the new unit.
spaceballs
Member
The microcontroller and flash (if it's present) could still be ok and I would transplant that to the new dc-dc converter.
I monitor DC voltage in my car with a digital display. You should be seeing 13.6 to 13.8 with the car on.
Yes, it could be a firmware mismatch between the old one and the replacement. Because it's an intelligent device (CAN bus proves this), if it doesn't see something it's looking for on the bus, it may not start up. It could also be getting bad information. It seems like it's ok, as the flashing bulb when it was in series proves it was at least pulsing a few amps.
Too bad you aren't closer. I'd be happy to have a look if you were.
You could always put in a different DC-DC. All it's got to do is take in 200-400VDC and put out enough to keep the systems powered. Probably needs to be at least 750W to run all the Tesla's on-board systems. You can probably just take a $150 15V switch mode power supply and wire it in. (be sure to adjust the voltage down to about 14) I know the Mean Well units are quite happy on DC. (I've used them on EV conversions on many occasions)
You should leave the Tesla unit in, as it also distributes the high-voltage to the heaters and A/C compressor. Tap off the A/C compressor HV lines and wire it to the AC input of the power supply, then wire the output of the power supply in parallel with the heavy +/- terminals on the Tesla converter. Obviously if you aren't 100% sure of what you are doing around high-voltage DC, do not attempt. The car's HV bus is definitely lethal!
Also, Before you wire in any switch-mode supply, open the unit and verify that it has at least 450V rated main capacitor(s). If it's only 400V, you'd be cutting it too close, so you'd want to upgrade it to a 450V minimum cap first.
Too bad you aren't closer. I'd be happy to have a look if you were.
You could always put in a different DC-DC. All it's got to do is take in 200-400VDC and put out enough to keep the systems powered. Probably needs to be at least 750W to run all the Tesla's on-board systems. You can probably just take a $150 15V switch mode power supply and wire it in. (be sure to adjust the voltage down to about 14) I know the Mean Well units are quite happy on DC. (I've used them on EV conversions on many occasions)
You should leave the Tesla unit in, as it also distributes the high-voltage to the heaters and A/C compressor. Tap off the A/C compressor HV lines and wire it to the AC input of the power supply, then wire the output of the power supply in parallel with the heavy +/- terminals on the Tesla converter. Obviously if you aren't 100% sure of what you are doing around high-voltage DC, do not attempt. The car's HV bus is definitely lethal!
Also, Before you wire in any switch-mode supply, open the unit and verify that it has at least 450V rated main capacitor(s). If it's only 400V, you'd be cutting it too close, so you'd want to upgrade it to a 450V minimum cap first.
Hello! Thank you so much for your reply. Im trying to see if i could put third party dcdc converter to make my battery charge from battery pack. I will see if you can get another dcdc converter to install and see if its gonna change anything, because i dont know how to check this converter to check what is wrong dcdc or CAN signal problem. Maybe you could explain one more time in details with parts that i need to buy from the web site, so i could buy and try if its gonna help. Thank you again. I with you were closer.))
i would think that since you have replaced the damaged dc converter you will need a dealer service visit to reprogram the CAN bus parameters for the new serial number converter.
Since you have replaced all the damaged items and repaired the body damage, and it is running and driving when the 12v battery is full, then it sounds like you have fixed it all as far as you can and are ready for the tesla inspection and reflash of memory, etc necessary to get it back on the road.
Great job!
Since you have replaced all the damaged items and repaired the body damage, and it is running and driving when the 12v battery is full, then it sounds like you have fixed it all as far as you can and are ready for the tesla inspection and reflash of memory, etc necessary to get it back on the road.
Great job!
If you cover a plane ticket, I'll come out and help you get it going. I'd recommend you pick up a Mean-Well SP-750-15 supply first. Get it from some place you can return it in the event we get your existing DC-DC running. We might be able to, even if we have to swap some internal parts as Spaceballs suggested, and this is the best option. If it fails we can shoehorn the Mean-Well in and you'll have an operating Model S.
Looks like the main board might be ok (under the shield). So you could try swapping it into the new one. Once you get the board out, Clean up all the dirt with some alcohol and a toothbrush.
Use a sharp knife to cut the silicone seal on the good one so it can be resealed. I'd try this before you bother flying me out.
Use a sharp knife to cut the silicone seal on the good one so it can be resealed. I'd try this before you bother flying me out.
spaceballs
Member
That outer board that got damaged doesn't looks like it has the brains on it, that's a good sign.
Make sure you compare both PCBs and look if it's the same or different revisions on it.
