brucet999
Active Member
But the crease results from the front edge bending downward, not upward as would be the case if the seal pushing upwards against resistance from the latch were the cause.
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But the crease results from the front edge bending downward, not upward as would be the case if the seal pushing upwards against resistance from the latch were the cause.
Gizmotoy
Active Member
It happens, though not very often. This thread has a handful, at most. I kept my mouth shut on this a bit to see what they'd do, but since the answer appears to be "essentially nothing"...
Tesla investigated and offered to fix my little ripple (it's barely visible, and not as bad as most others here) after I complained to corporate about the mixed messages. I felt the damage was minor, and without a proper mechanical correction likely to recur, so I instead asked them to fix the issue or at the very least clarify how to close the frunk without damage. I was told the message made it pretty high up. That was 9 months ago. Back in February I was contected by someone directly under Jerome Guillen about an unrelated issue, and brought it up again.
Someone just a few days ago posted here that they were blamed for damage caused using the new updated wide-arm closing method, instructing them to use the older and now not-recommended red-zone method instead. As noted earlier, those receiving new Model S sometimes get creases when closing the hood in the exact same way they did on their previous vehicle. Clearly Tesla has not attempted to do either of things I asked. Turns out I made a mistake. I should have just let them fix it and never used the frunk again. I really thought they'd work to fix this.
It's pretty disappointing that years later and they still haven't figured this out. They're not the only ones that ship cars with aluminum hoods and forward environment-tight storage areas... look at any modern rear-engine car!
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Nope, most of the photos and creases I've seen in person look like this:
Which is exactly where the latch is pulling down. This is going to happen no matter how you close it and is more likely to happen if the latch is adjusted so that it's pulling against and compressing the seal more.
brucet999
Active Member
Hmm. the 4 such that I saw at SC appeared to bend downward at the edge. This gets curiouser and curiouser.
Well, it turns out my loaner has the crease and it's in the other direction as the one I posted the picture of above. This one is clearly the result of pressing to hard on the edge. This frunk on the loaner requires a lot more force to close than my frunk. The loaner has the dual latch design. Mine has the single latch design:
Both creases are in the same spot but just the opposite direction. It's where the re-enforcement stops.
Both creases are in the same spot but just the opposite direction. It's where the re-enforcement stops.
Gizmotoy
Active Member
Cyclone
Cyclonic Member ((.oO))
So I've lost track at this point. What is the recommended procedure for a 2013, dual-latch frunk? The 6.2 owner's manual looks written for the single-latch design about the front lip and center few inches being a "red zone" and stating to press firmly using two hands a few inches above the lip and off-center. Should this approach also be taken with the dual latch frunks?
Gizmotoy
Active Member
The best word we have from Tesla is that the current process in the manual is recommended for all vehicles, both single and dual latch. The highest person we actually spoke to was the regional manager (though messaging was conveyed up to Jerome), but Tesla recommended the wide-arm green zone closing mechanism from the current manual for my dual-latch 2013.
That said, clearly getting a consistent answer has been difficult.
I have always closed my frunk using the very wide spread hands except 1 time when I picked up my car and used 1 hand in the middle which fortunately did not do anything to it. I had no frunk crease until about a month ago after I stopped by service quickly and noticed the next time I washed my car.
very small one but it sucks because I did not do it.
mine looks just like the grey picture location but a little harder to see
very small one but it sucks because I did not do it.
mine looks just like the grey picture location but a little harder to see
brucet999
Active Member
What does this mean? Are you talking about hands on the outer margins of the frunk lid like the picture someone posted of a guy in the Tesla factory?
I close my frunk similarly, but maybe the only difference is that I say a little prayer to myself each time that it doesn't crease.
So far, works every time. Plus, I've done something a little extra to actively prevent a downward crease, see below.
One thing I've done is run a 3/8" thick piece of black closed cell sponge rubber weather stripping along the top of the chrome of the nose cone and another kind of I don't know what you call it type of weather stripping (it's a coil of self adhesive backed black silicon rubber tear drop shaped cross section) stuff along the leading edge of the frunk lid... so as when the frunk is closed there is zero air gap between the nosecone and lid.
This does 3 things.
1. It prevents rain spray and road grime entering and collecting under the frunk lid making the plastic surround around the storage area dirty.
2. It improves aerodynamic flow, no gap catching wind.
3. It provides a substantially force resistant mating surface between the frunk lid leading edge and what you're slamming it down on... was previously an air gap over the nose cone. Now, there's zero travel if you were to continue pushing down the leading edge it will be met by a solid force...
Maybe this has had something to do with my success of no frunk dent.
You might want to do similar for the other 2 reasons as well.
FWIW, the P85D red demo I tried for a day, had a crease with the leading edge bending downward. My "mod" would probably have prevented that. Should be a factory fix.
I also used several feet of the I don't know what you call it type of weather stripping (it's a coil of self adhesive backed black silicon rubber tear drop shaped cross section) stuff along many body panel gaps to make them more aerodynamically sealed. I will take a few pictures and open a different thread on that.
So far, works every time. Plus, I've done something a little extra to actively prevent a downward crease, see below.
One thing I've done is run a 3/8" thick piece of black closed cell sponge rubber weather stripping along the top of the chrome of the nose cone and another kind of I don't know what you call it type of weather stripping (it's a coil of self adhesive backed black silicon rubber tear drop shaped cross section) stuff along the leading edge of the frunk lid... so as when the frunk is closed there is zero air gap between the nosecone and lid.
This does 3 things.
1. It prevents rain spray and road grime entering and collecting under the frunk lid making the plastic surround around the storage area dirty.
2. It improves aerodynamic flow, no gap catching wind.
3. It provides a substantially force resistant mating surface between the frunk lid leading edge and what you're slamming it down on... was previously an air gap over the nose cone. Now, there's zero travel if you were to continue pushing down the leading edge it will be met by a solid force...
Maybe this has had something to do with my success of no frunk dent.
You might want to do similar for the other 2 reasons as well.
FWIW, the P85D red demo I tried for a day, had a crease with the leading edge bending downward. My "mod" would probably have prevented that. Should be a factory fix.
I also used several feet of the I don't know what you call it type of weather stripping (it's a coil of self adhesive backed black silicon rubber tear drop shaped cross section) stuff along many body panel gaps to make them more aerodynamically sealed. I will take a few pictures and open a different thread on that.
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JRP3
Hyperactive Member
The second picture I posted is clearly the result of a user pushing on the edge repeatedly.
However, the first picture where the latch has pulled down on the frunk relative to the pressure seal, I don't see how this could be user error. I don't see how this is not going to happen from just driving around and have the seal push upwards on the frunk countering the latch.
However, the first picture where the latch has pulled down on the frunk relative to the pressure seal, I don't see how this could be user error. I don't see how this is not going to happen from just driving around and have the seal push upwards on the frunk countering the latch.
yes, 'very wide' as in near the corners by the headlights- in Sorka's picture in post #223 you can just about see the corner on the left of the picture, somewhere close to there on each side
that Shiva is a little creepy, super frunk closer - might be able to do it all the different ways we've been told?
digitaltim
Sig737 VIN628
My Sig (circa 11/2012) has a slight crease. I use the frunk often (weekly dry cleaning mostly). It has only been opened and closed by me or the service center. There are no other dents on the car (jinx).
Design flaw.
Design flaw.
TomServo
Active Member
Couldn't Tesla change the material from aluminum to carbon fiber? The hood on my 2014 Stingray is CF and all I do to close it is to lower by hand till it's about 12" from being closed and remove my hand and gravity causes it to close.
Easy peasy, no fuss and no change of damaging or scratching the paint.
Easy peasy, no fuss and no change of damaging or scratching the paint.
I drove a loaner P85+ two weeks ago, VIN 32XXX. The hood appeared to bulge up slightly where the latch is located, or the leading edge was bent down to give the appearance of a bulge, not sure which. I had to point it out during the standard walk-thru before accepting the loaner. Still no issues with my VIN 16186 car.
